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Comments
I've driven several Ford products past 60K with no problems at all. This isn't 1990.
i grabbed it by the top of the triangle and in just pulled away from the door.
didn't pull it completely away from the door, my mirror is still ok , but give it a try before you try taking off the whole inside door panel.
there is A post on the site you linked to that this could cause damage long term.
some things to consider:
search the web for a ford factory extended warranty. select lots of years, low mileage. 7/75 or something like that. some dealers sell these online.
i you get to the point where you want to keep the car, negotiate with the finance person on the warranty, using the web quote.
is the cost of the warrany worth the money for how long you expect to keep the car?
i'm not sure why you bought new tires already.
considering you gas mileage, it sounds like a lot of stop and go/city driving,
if you don't keep the car, get a 4 cyl next time.
Maybe at a Ford dealer, but I think if he was trading he'd have a hard time getting $13K. It's 3 years old and despite the low miles, most 3 year old cars lose over half their value. I've driven both the V6 and 4 versions of the Fusion. The original 3.0L V6 doesn't give you that much of a performance edge over a 4 cyl Camry or Accord. The 4cyl is noticeably worse and despite its smaller size it delivers worse mileage than the Camcord. I trust that Ford is speaking the truth when it says the 2010 models will give better performance and mileage because I'd welcome some real competition from Detroit for a change. With all the deals and low financing out there, I think the guy is making a mistake spending that much on a 3 year old common sedan.
PS - D3 quality lags are much more recent than 1990 unfortunately, although CR does give the Fusion high marks, but it is an exception on D3 - 3 year reliability.
show some pride in your stuff on carspace.
mine is out there. :P
Good luck
Any updates on what you found out? And/or price of the clutch. My dealer quoted me $1200 and I thought they were just trying to rip me off because I'm a female/college-student.
My advice to you - get the clutch fixed, then trade it in. Not worth the hassle.
This always happens when the car is just started (cold), but occaisonally happens under normal conditions. I took it to a dealer and of course the car was warmed up and they could find nothing wrong. They tested the pressure as well and said it was fine. I guess my next option would be to leave the car at the dealer for a while so they can hear the noise when cold.
I did find this post online which sounds very similar:
http://www.justanswer.com/questions/2q7xp-2010-ford-fusion-makes-gurgling-sound-- when-accelerating-can
Anyone else have this "noise?" Any ideas what it could be?
What pressure?
I've seen similar issue on another forum, and they suspect air in the coolant system, and you're hearing it gurgle in the heater core. Forgot if a flush helped, search some other Ford Fusion forums and I think you'll find it. I'll post back if I see it again and have the time.
Pressure check to see if there was a leak in the coolant system. They said there was not. Let me know what you find.
I've seen a number of forums but no solutions.
http://www.fordfusionforum.com/index.php?/topic/3085-2010-fusion-sloshing-sound-- - when-first-driven/
Unfortunately it appears they don't have a solution yet. I guess it's one you've seen already?
Yes, that fordfusionforum sums it up nicely. That is the exact problem I am having.
Is there a way to contact Ford to let them know we are having this issue?
Or is bringing it to the dealer for service good enough?
The more people with this problem who take their 2010 Fusions with this problem to the dealer, the more Ford will be ready to fix it. Remember the old adage....the squeaky gear gets the grease.
If the 2010 Fusion's Heater Core has been recalled why haven't we received any word from Ford on replacing it? Is this something that just takes time?
My tech told me that Service Bulletins only come out once a quarter. So perhaps this recall will hit the streets in early March?
Yes, I have been following FordFusionForum.com daily. My dealer only wants to "burp" the air out like already has been tried and failed, as you guys proved.
Frustrating!
There was no RECALL on the heater cores. It's an extended warranty in case a problem occurs. It's not a safety issue.
Maybe a loose belt? Any ideas out there???
I've "done my own" for the past 30 years or so. Saves time and money for me, and also have seen too many mistakes when someone else changes my oil...even for such a basic automotive procedure by factory service or independents.
Relating to the 2.5, 4-cyl engine (2010 model Milan):
On the Mercury Milan (probably the Fusion clone, too) the oil filter and oil drain
plug are under the car and covered by plastic/composite sheeting for aerodynamic
purposes, I imagine. Each cover has an embossed label on it, easy to see. The oil
filter access cover is forward and secured by five (5) hex screws. One, 10-mm and
four, 7-mm screws. Time consuming, even if crawling under an elevated front-end.
It is a somewhat rectangular cover. The filter is the standard spin on, spin off type, and suggest using a cap wrench fitting on it. When dropping the filter, a lot of oil
will spill down, onto your hand if not careful. Beware when oil is HOT! Wear neoprene gloves. Hot 5w20 oil looks/feels water-thin and it splashes.
Oil drain plug is about 14" rearward of the filter opening. The a plastic covering is
secured by one, 7-mm hex screw and a tab insert, opposite This is a round shaped plastic cover.
The oil drain plug has a 13-mm hex fitting, and it is mounted horizontally and oil
empties vigorously to the rear of the car. The 5w20 oil flows straight out, even when
cold, from the drain plug location at the rear-side of the engine oil pan. So, guard against over-run of your oil catch pan(s) carefully, maybe use a funnel type
of shield to avoid oil splash. Or, use two pans...one for filter spillage and one for the
drain hole "forceful pee-out" on the backside of the engine oil pan.
So, the self-oil change drill is a bit more complex than in most cars. Take notes on
how this is done so you have your own guide for the next time (that's my best method for remembering).
GM cars are now starting to put oil filter access top-side, just as they did in the
early 50's. Smart move. Easy, compared to the under-car filter drop that always
spills oil down your hand.
For your 4-cyl. Milan or Fusion:
Topside on the engine, oil fill and dip-stick check are fairly standard. The dip-stick
does have a notch that must be fitted when securing and it's easy to overlook this.
Look for this notch on the stick neck, just below the round finger-pull (yellow).
If overlooked, the stick will fit about 1/2" high (not fully seated) and a small amount
of oil will spray out at speed, over time. Yes, that 5w20 oil flows like water when hot or even just warm. Check this to avoid a small oil-slick coating in your engine
compartment.
Oil filters in major brands for this car (like Motorcraft and Fram) are readily available and cheaper compared to most types. Also, Motorcraft (Ford Motor Brand) 5w20 synthetic blend oil is available at Wal Mart and comparatively reasonable, too.
Sold in red, 5-quart containers.
Now you are set. Just plan for a little extra time when doing the oil change and filter yourself (mainly due to the cover removals and care with the drain plug gush).
Andy.
1) rear bumper plastic cover. This is remarkably loosely attached to the bumper at the bottom. It is of course concave in its contour and if you just pull back on it and let it snap back it is noisy (to me). I imagine at high speed it acts like a sail and with change in direction (whether road or wind) it could cause noise. I intend to anchor and foam fill it to alleviate the problem (real or not).
2) I am a golfer and love the big trunk. While fiddling about the trunk I discovered a metal divot repair tool that had fallen into the right sided aperture that houses the jack, funnel and other paraphenalia. The rear of this space has no insulation or carpeting (there is a carpeted flap on top but things can fall through as the divot tool did. The surface is not flat and it was contributing a rattle at certain speeds. There is a similar carpeted flap on the left rear floor of the trunk. Look in there for fallen objects before you look elsewhere. I may stick some padding in there for good measure.
3) the dealer license plate holders were a rattle source desite the attachment screws being tight. A foam shim solved that problem. Be sure to use four screws to fasten the plate since some of the holders allow the plate to rattle in the wind.
4) It is now a wonderfully quiet car (it was good as delivered but these fine tunings have further pleased my sound sensitive ears). There remains one intermittent very low frequency "moaning" that is not speed sensitive or rpm sensitive which has thusfar eluded my search. I note that there are many shields on the underside of the engine and the chassis but since I do not have a lift I haven't been able to properly scrutinize them as a possible source. I do not have AWD. It sounds like a tire noise (in frequency) but is not. It does not seem sensitive to road surface type. It has me baffled (no pun intended).
A great car. I also love that you can turn off all the inside dash and door lights while night driving. Dark and quiet--that's my preference.
If there are any other noise knuckleheads like me who have discovered minor noise sources please share in this forum.
When it is cold, it shifts harshly for the first few miles and then settles down. I have made a comment to the dealer and they have told me it is due to the fact that the trans fluid is a non-synthetic. That kind of makes sense.
At 15K miles, I am going to change over to a straight synthetic trans fluid from Amsoil that meets the specs.
I have noticed many of my male buddies ogling over this thing, they seem to be zeroing in this same car, either Fusion or Milan. cruises smooth on the highway at 28 mpg.
Best used car out there, fusions and Milans, you can't go wrong.
Never embassed to pull up to someones house driving American, I would last about 2 days
staring at a Hyundi or Kia sign stuck on the steering wheel but that is just me.
akirby, I know you are out there and know the answer. Thanks.
replacement rims for 2010 Milan
offset=44mm
hub bore diameter=67.1mm
A different offset will affect how far the outer surface of the wheel/tire comination stands out further than or is further in than the OEM rims. The OEM have a 44mm offset.
A center hub bore of 67.1mm will fit snugly (the size of the OEMs); larger bores will fit with centering rings; smaller bore hubs will not fit unless widened on a lathe which sounds like quite a nuisance and expense.