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GMC Jimmy Misfiring, Backfiring, Spark Plugs
daytripper540
Member Posts: 2
in GMC
Our 1993 GMC Jimmy started building up carbon in the EGR Valve. We Seafoamed it, but that didn't seem to help. We later put a new gasket on the EGR that has a screen on it. That has seemed to fix the carbon problem.
As of right now, it keeps fouling spark plugs. It sounds like it has a huge cam in it, which I'm taking as it not running on all its cylinders. When I take the plugs out, they seem to have gas on them. Any idea on what's causing it and how to fix it?
As of right now, it keeps fouling spark plugs. It sounds like it has a huge cam in it, which I'm taking as it not running on all its cylinders. When I take the plugs out, they seem to have gas on them. Any idea on what's causing it and how to fix it?
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Crank sensor is under the front of the motor and they can act up without a code or the connector can get wet/dirty. Any SES light and codes?
I purchased in Jan 07. (39,000 miles)
Its been back to the dealer 4 times for stalling.
I'm just driving down the road and its shuts off.
I still have power but the engine quits.
so for all that has been done is (replaced)
the distributer cap and roater,the coil and something attached to it. They can't figure it out. I don't get any
check engine lites. Im pritty sure the problem is electrical,but who knows. Can anyone help this is driving me crazy.
The problem is every time I try to drive up a steep incline the truck will lose power, then chug and sputter like it's gonna die. If I turn around and go back down the hill, the sputtering and chugging stops and she runs fine again! What is going on? Any suggestions?
Change the fuel filter and if then check the fuel pressure.
How would I find out if the coil was failing? Just replace it?
It seems that the truck only behaves this way on one hill, which is at a high altitude. If the MAF sensor was malfunctioning, would it cause the truck to behave this way in high altitudes?
Any way of knowing if the MAF or MAP sensors are malfunctioning before spending money to replace? I did lightly clean the MAF last nite, and made it up the hill a little further before truck crapped out......
Have to test the primary and secondary windings and some auto stores can test for you free.
As for the brakes the rear calipers must be replaved with rebuilts each brake job - cheap plastic piston and the slides are in the braket and must be pulled out (rubber boot pulls out) and greased or you will eat rotors. Assumes that the rotors are straight and the lines clean.
The other repairs you did are known Blazer/Jimmy ones and soon the AC compressor will go, the alternator, water pump, and keep that cooling system changed every 3/36 or look out heater core and lower intake gasket.
I have 4 of these so I know when each part dies first hand. When all is fixed they run well and handle pretty well too but as you know they are not without alot of repair and if you have to use a shop gets very expensive fast.
We replaced every "suspect" part on the damn truck, as follows:
Transmission (needed to be done, was slipping badly)
Cap & Rotor
Spark plugs & wires
Distributor
Catalytic converter
O2 Sensors, MAF sensor, MAP sensor, cam position sensor, ignition control module sensor.
Intake manifold gasket
Fuel filter, fuel pump
Oil filter, air filter
Ignition coils
Radiator
And the problem was that the exhaust valves were burned. One exhaust valve had gotten sooo hot, that it was misshapen, and actually was thinning out.
Eventually, the thing got so warped, that the piston came in contact with it, and I lost all compression in that cylinder. This is the only way we would have ever guessed that this was the issue. The valves cost $35.00 each. Lots of labour - 8 hours, but the end result was a fix of $1300. Which is less than 1/4 the amount of money we spent trying to fix the damn thing.
We researched this issue for months and months. We never had anyone even guess that it might be exhaust valves. The only issue we had was high emmissions, and a random cylinder misfire code, which was intermittent (P0300).
Hope this information helps someone else out.
For additional info or input, feel free to send me an e-mail: daylynbc@hotmail.com
Not until the valve actually warped and burned, did we find out that was the problem.
The original problem was the valve getting too hot.
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