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Cadillac CTS Maintenance and Repair

johns8johns8 Posts: 1
I use regular oil not synthectic. Do I still go by the computer to change oil? 2006 cts.
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Comments

  • paopao Posts: 1,867
    the GMOL indicator was designed to work with the factory installed oil......did it come with dino or synth?...you can actually use the GMOL to monitor your oil change intervals....just dont exceed intervals shown in your owners manual....I use full synth in my 04 Malibu Maxx LT..watch the GMOL..and change at 7500 miles of %25 remaining on the GMOL..whichever I reach first......91K on my Maxx and no problems at all
  • Stupid question I know.

    I have a 2004 CTS 3.6L V6 when I check the oil level I get a low reading below the 3 bubbles on the stick. I have no blue smoke to indicate I’m burning oil. And no oil leaks that I can see. Anyone else have this problem when checking their oil? Even after adding oil it's still below the 3 bubbles. Something else I should check?

    Is there a low oil level sensor on the 2004?

    Thanks in advance
  • puckspucks Posts: 47
    I'm pretty sure the 3.6L VVT on the CTS is synthetic only.
  • panzerpanzer Posts: 125
    Anybody ever had a mild shudder develop under light throttle, in 4th gear (automatic) at about 1600 rpm and about 42mph? It only does it in this narrow range. Our 2005 CTS with the 3.6L V6 has started to do this pretty consistently. It has 24,000 miles. Possibly the rear axle issue? Never had any problems with the car in 2-1/2 years.
  • Is the 95 STS antenna mast available without changing the whole unit?
  • Took my 2004 Cadillac cts to the dealer today.

    To make a long story short..

    The Cadillac dealer service department told me today. The oil life monitor is a bad tool to use when deciding oil changing intervals. I had my oil changed 5000 miles ago. Oil life monitor indicated oil life 69%. I figured I could go at lest another 3500 miles before the next oil change. Not according to the dealer service advisor and an technician they advised me 3500miles regardless, the oil life monitor goes by the engines rpm and temperature and is only ruff yes I quote a ruff guide. I asked what the hell the oil life monitor is doing on GM vehicles and why GM is telling me different story. They had no answer, I said Amazing and left!

    My question

    Any of you on this forum been told this about the olm? I contacted GM, They stand behind the olm and suggested I continue to use the olm to service the vehicle. Yes I used the recommended Mobil 1 5W30 synthetic. And I will not return to this dealership again. Thank you in advanced.
  • paopao Posts: 1,867
    I think your dealership is simply trying to get more $$ from you by bringing it back in more often than required......The OLM is standard in most GM cars today....look at the owners manual.....it doesnt give you a standard oil change interval any more...but references the OLM system....I use mine as my oil change interval..usually taking it down to 25%....using Mobil 1...in my 04 Malibu and 06 Solstice..getting about 7500 miles between changes.......3K changes are a personal choice...but a waste IMHO.....

    I would go to another dealership.....
  • PAO.

    I agree 100% I thought the same thing.
  • HELP!!!
    About two weeks ago my CTS started making this knocking noise when I would turn it on, after a few seconds it would go away. Then last week when my husband was driving it the knocking noise turned into a rattle (metal on metal) noise, while we were stopped and moving- the faster we were going the faster the rattle. We did not make it more than a mile until the check engine light came on and we parked it and had it towed to the cadillac dealer. The oil had just been changed a week prior to the noise starting (synthetic), and another oil change had been performed about 3 months after buying it. The car is used with 30k on it when bought and now, 10 months later 43k. The dealership wants proof of two oil changes since bought which we gave them, and $4600 to tear apart/ put back together the engine to see if it is a manufactory defect or poor maintence. If it turns out to be a engine defect then the warranty will come into play, if not we are SOL. The service department is telling me they have never seen this before and that these engines run perfect with the correct maintence. They cannot tell me what is exactly wrong with the car but are pointing the finger at me and saying that there was not enough oil to lubricate the engine and in turn my engine blew. They are telling me there is metal in the oil, and that it is sludge. You should also know the oil indicator was taken out when a after market nav was put into the car, but they say that it should only have needed two oil changes since being bought. I am curious to know if anyone else has been in this situation or thinks that it is a manufactory defect or not. I am having a hard time risking $4600....
  • paopao Posts: 1,867
    did you buy the car from this dealer.....was it a certified model?.....if you provided the oil change documentation.....they should do the work to determine what the problem is..since they intially suspected lack of oil.....

    taking out the GMOL with the installation of an aftermarket nav system shouldnt have anything to do with the dealerships claim since you provided evidence of routine maintenance...of course you dont know what the maintenance record was before you bought it.........metal and sludge in the oil..find that hard to beleive with only 43K on the car......

    if you could have it taken to another dealer I would......this one sounds like they dont know what they are doing..or are looking for a quick $$
  • No, I did not buy the car from this dealer.....yes, it is a certified model. I completely agree with you, I find it very crazy that they want money to investigate a problem that they already suspect and that I have proven has been maintence. I called the GM to see if I could get the car moved to another location, but I would have to pay out of pocket the towing fees, because it is already at a location that can fix the car. I think I am going to have a family mechanic go and look at the car and test the oil and tell me the status and see if I should risk the $4600 and have them tear apart the engine.

    Thank you very much for your comments, they really helped.
  • paopao Posts: 1,867
    so why not take it back to the dealer you bought it from in the first place..I can only assume it was another cadillac dealer in order to classify it as a certified used car.... the other issue you may have is the dealership may not let "your" mechanic look at the vehicle as long as it is at their work site......I would pay the $$ and have it towed to the dealer you bought it from and save the hassle with this dealer...

    if it is certified and still has a warranty...this dealership is obviously jerking you around for no reason...looking for the $$
  • I have a 2006 Cadillac CTS and when I press the accelerator, there is a crunching noise that sounds almost like chains are being rubbed together. I thought it sounded like it was coming from the steering wheel area, but I have taken my car into the dealership twice and they can't find the problem. Also, when I come to a complete stop, my car will then bounce forward and back as though the car overall is really loose, along with making the chainlike noises. Last, when I am making a turn and have to slow down, there is a really loud sound that's similar to a "woop woop woop" noise. I don't know much about cars, but it sounds like it could be coming from the rear axle? Can anyone help?
  • Our 3.2 L 2004 Cts standard shift 5 speed cuts out around 4000 rpms. As it approaches the higher revs you can feel the hesitation begin and then at around 4000 it really looses it pick up. I was told by one dealer in Minnesota that it has a governor on it that holds the revs down. It doesn't seem like this would be true since you can feel the hesitation earlier. Is this a problem that has any real shop references and can it be fixed?
    Thanks
  • My dealer tells me to go no more than 6 months before oil changes regardless what the oil life monitor says. I am told synthetic oil doesn't need to be changed as often as conventional oil, I'm thinking you can probably go between 6000 and 10000 miles, depending on the kind of driving you do.
  • I think you're SOL. If you let this aftermarket person disable the OLM, you should have reverted to the 3/3000 rule for oil changes. I bet you won't make that mistake again.
  • irv65irv65 Posts: 2
    My Mother has a 02-03? CTS and when you turn the key over all you get is a small clicking sound....no starter clicking, dimming lights or anything. All of the electical seems to still work. I just want to save my Mom some cash and time if it is something I could take care of myself...any help would be great.
  • 2003 CTS 110,000 miles told by dealer leaking oil cooler that will cost @ $ 900 to repair. Will it ruin my engine if I ignore
  • I own a 2004 CTS, I get oil changes every 5k miles. The car seemed to have burned up oil like it was mad. You can start to notice the change in performance, the card gets loud when you accelerate etc. Anyways I have monitored the oil and tend to put oil in between changes.

    My mom owns a 2006, My sister owns a 2005, I have a friend that owns a STS 2005. They all have the same problem with oil all of the cars consume oil like mad.

    I often thought about the people that do not pay attention to items like this and then ruin the engine. How many CTS/STS are in the used market with major problems.

    Well today I got another oil changed and I just got a call that my Oil filter connecter/widget or something is bad. Its "warped" and my car is leaking oil. They informed me its going to cost an additional $400 to get fixed.

    Isn't that something, I suspect that its a faulty design and the car should be recalled. But go figure that will cost GM and the dealer money.
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    My 2007 SRX went 12000 miles without using any oil (at least not enought to add any). The question is why did the oil filter connection widget get warped. Did this happen when the service guy was removing the oil filter at some point in the past?
  • not sure, it seemed to start after the second oil change. My thoughts are the filter has a tight design, and its prone to some idiot screwing something up. This is the first for me, I never heard of a bad oil filter seal that originates on the engine/widget connection.

    I thought it best to share on this thread what I have experienced and encountered. By far I'm happy with the CTS, and I hate to see any owner not be aware of this oil problem.
  • ewl88ewl88 njPosts: 76
    I am looking to replace my leased 2006 Infiniti M35X when my lease is up. I am strongly considering the 2008 CTS DI AWD version. There is no published data on reliability yet. Has anyone heard any rumblings about reliability problems about the CTS? I don't see any postings on reliability on this forum which seems like good news. This will be my primary and sole car so I need something reliable. Thanks.
  • I have a 2003 CTS and it is doing the same thing. Did you ever find out what was wrong?
  • hosa24hosa24 Posts: 3
    For me it was my battery, I did not drive it during the hard snow we got in columbus, so it sat in my driveway for about 3 weeks.

    I recharged the battery, and everything worked. It was something I did not expect. Because the radio worked really well and the windows. etc. It just did not have enough "juice" to crank the starter. It actually made a noise like something was grinding etc. So was pretty worried. But its been running ever since no problems.
  • Well, we checked the battery and that isn't the problem. It acts like it is going to start and the started actually keeps on going but it won't start. After about 15 mintues it eventually does but it happens all over again once you turn it off. I don't know what the deal is......Thanks though for the quick response!
  • calicagocalicago Posts: 53
    You have proof of the oil change since you bought it inturn check with the people that you bought it from that they have change the oil before you purchase it if thats the case get documataion from them stating that it sone to me they want to rip you off and that 4600 should not be chrage to you from the get go untill they found the problem contact your states attorney office and get an attorney beleave it or not you do not suppose to pay untill the full procedures have been pefromed that means following the guide lines that have been set not by they dealership or cadillac but by G.M
  • cadi03cadi03 Posts: 1
    Hey there! I have a 2003 Cadillac CTS and I've been having a similar problem, my car doesn't want to start I don't know if it's the starter or what theres a clicking noise when I try to start it everything turns on light, radio etc. Did you ever find help? I've been having problem after problem with my car recently I couldnt pull the key out of the car I had to have my car towed and worked on they had a hard time with it I spent over 1,200 on just that a week later this happens >:! I've about had it! If anyone can help please HELP ME!!! Any good auto repair shops out there???
  • pacinipacini Posts: 1
    Had same issue. Found out that I had a dead cell in the battery. Relaced battery and all is well since then.
  • I have to defend the dealer here. Just because the oil can 'last' 5,000 miles or
    more is not a reason not to change it earlier!! The other reason to change the
    oil is due to the engine's natural break-down - and particals will fall into the oil well
    before the oil breaks down. Many believe in changing oil no more than every 3,000
    miles - no matter what kind of oil is used. So don't be so fast in suspecting foul
    play from your dealer.
  • I just replaced my 5 year old battery on my '04 CTS-V6 with 131k miles. After searching several places for a battery, which had no listings for the CTS, I contacted the dealership to price an ACDelco replacement. This solution, $223.00 plus tax, sent me back to finding an aftermarket replacement. The Wal-Mart MAXX group 78N, 900 cca battery has more power, a better warranty, and will work without any modifications. The battery price and DIY was $72.94, 1/3 the dealership cost.
  • junetjunet Posts: 6
    Has anyone experienced a roaring/rubbing noise when turning sharply at low speeds? Also Tires worn out at 16,000 and I have rotated at every 5,000 w/oil changes.
  • Hi,
    I have a 2003 CTS and same experience, twice already!
    1st time is within the waranty period, and GM dealer diagnosed to be a bad cell in the battery. So they replaced it for free. Now when my car is not six years yet, the 2nd battery died yesterday.
    Have to replace a new one again.
  • So I was listening to a lecture the other day and loved it but the guy told a story about his V-series car that needed more oil. He said that he was about to buy Synthetic because it looked the best but someone told him to look in his owners manual and in there it said that using Synthetic might cause the engine to explode.

    I dont know what year car this was or which V-Series car it was but is it possible the story could be true? Would Synthetic oil cause any V-Series engine to explode?

    My email address is [email protected] if you want to contact me directly.
  • Has anyone heard about or experienced this issue with the 2008-2009 CTS? I was about to buy one but now I am not so sure.

    http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-cts-forum-2008-beyond/119196-have-- - we-solved-steering-vibration-freeway-37.html

    48 page thread discussing a mysterious shimmy problem. Apparently Cadillac knows about the issue and has issued a tech bulletin but has not solved the problem yet. See Post # 369 on page 37 of the thread for the bulletin.

    Has anyone who has recently purchased a CTS run into this problem?
  • paopao Posts: 1,867
    09 CTS here in Sept with 18 inch wheel package with FE2 suspension...yes a member of that forum as well.....have not had the problem....beleive most that have had it had it resolved with a proper wheel balance using a road force balancer.....assuming the tech knows how to properly operate the balancer
  • Thanks, pao!
  • So, you were listenting to a lecture the other day from a crackhead and loved it.

    V series is the CORVETTE engine

    Corvette comes from factory with synthetic

    Synthetic is superior to natural (dino) oil...put it in anything and it's better.

    Why in the F would Synthetic make an engine "explode"?

    Do you own a V series? If so, read your owners manual and see if it says that.

    99.9% you do NOT own Vseries, so why in the H are you wasting our time and bandwidth?
  • Sounds like a similar issue here....2005 CTS 3.6L bought used from Carmax with 18.5K miles. I changed the oil (Mobil 1 synthetic) and filter at one year and 28K miles (10K miles since last oil change) with 20% oil life left. At 35K miles and 32% oil life remaining, it started making a ratcheting noise, then the engine light went on. Long story short, I took it to the dealer, and he said the oil was low by 2.5 qts. I asked him why the low oil idiot light didn't go on and he had no answer. He said the ratcheting noise was likely an indication of damaged timing chains. Indeed they had to replace the stretched timing chains, about a $2K job, which was covered under warrantee. He said you can't trust the Oil Life Monitor and need to change oil at least every 5K miles. He said you can't go by what the owner's manual says. Any thoughts???
  • paopao Posts: 1,867
    well first I personally check oil levels at each gas fill up....so to me..driving a car that is 2.5 quarts low is an ownership issue and not a dealership issue.....I have seen where the early CTSs seem to use oil up to a quart between 3K oil changes.....you can probably do a search for the issue here

    as far as not trusting the GMOL......I have three GM cars with it...and use it to the point of 25%, then do a change...using mobil 1 syn in the three cars....usually averaging about 6-7K between changes...which usually ends up being a change around 5-6 months.....

    a statement that you cant trust the GMOL or cant by the owners manual to me is a travesty.......wondering what GM customer service...would say...or even the service manager at that particular dealership would say?...who specifically made this statement...the service writer, the tech or the service manager?...you only refer to "he" at the dealership
  • Have a 2008 CTS purchased on Sept 1, 2008 with approx. 6500 miles on it. About a month and a half ago, the rear brakes started squealing loudly when approaching a stop. There is no squeal on hard stops. It is only occurring when approaching a stop (under 20 mph) and applying soft pressure on the brakes. I heard that there was possibly an issue with the brake caliper spring. Has been checked out by one dealer, and the mechanic noted no unusual noise on the ticket (obviously hearing impaired). When I take the car back in, I plan to demonstrate the squealing as it is quite loud. I can replicate the squealing under any conditions. Anybody having the same problems, and if so, what was done to correct?
  • paopao Posts: 1,867
    09 CTS here..with the same problem..there is a TSB out to replace the brake pads and the caliper brackets......had the warranty work done this past Monday and corrected the problem...

    #08-05-23-009 by replacing rear disc brakes and caliper brackets

    Pad Kit part number 25997338 1 each
    Bracket part number 25997457 2 each
  • Thanks for the info. Discussed with service advisor. Apparently this is a fairly big problem as he said that the parts are on national back-order. He also said that the replacement pads are much softer pads that would wear faster than the OEM pads. Also said that when these pads wear out and need replacing, they would not be covered by warranty. Seems to me that GM/Cadillac is refusing to accept full responsibility for the problem. None of my other vehicles, current or former, ever had problems with squealing brakes.
  • paopao Posts: 1,867
    not sure I agree that GM is avoiding the problem....they admit the problem...came up with the engineering fix..and repairing under warranty....pads...softer or not...is relative to me..depends if they are ceramic, partial, or basic pads....not sure what the material is as I didnt ask....

    my CTS no long squeals...Im happy....service department very proactive in ordering parts.......pads are a wear and tear item...I honestly wouldnt expect GM to give me a second set because they wear out.....now..lets see how long they last...my average brake job lasts me between 50-60K on my other vehicles..
  • My comment might have been a little strong. You are correct in that they are taking care of the problem and that brake pads are a wear and tear item. I have also gone 50-60K on other vehicles before getting a brake job. Like you said, we will just have to see how long they last. I to will be happy when mine no longer squeals. Thanks again for the info.
  • I have a 2004 with the CTS 3.6 engine. The oil consumption issue is getting worse. I have decided to repair the issue rather than accept the $4500 trade in the dealer will give. While the work is being performed would any of you have recommendations what else I should replace or have checked. The mechanic thinks the issue (oil consumption) is caused by the valve guides. I am also going to have him check or replace the timing belt/chain. The engine is very loud almost like clunking (hard to explain or describe the sound) Does the cam go in the engines. Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • robh3robh3 Posts: 157
    Greetings all on this forum. I have a pre-owned '06 CTS with sport package that I purchased several months ago. Only 7,800 miles when purchased, and now 10,000 miles. It's Certified and under full warranty. This is my 3rd Caddy. First was a '94 STS leased in '96, second was a '99 STS leased new.

    This is my first CTS. I love the car - EXCEPT - one nagging issue, which is that there is a vibration type rattle in the driver door that sounds as though it's from inside the door and it occurs upon shutting the door (only audible when inside the car, not when shutting it from outside the car). If it were any other door, I could probably blow it off, but since it's the driver's door, it's there every time I get in. Hence it's a nag.

    Two different dealers have had the car. Neither can fix the vibration/rattle noise. They did replace the door handle latch assembly that is controlled by the inside door handle, so it's apparently not that. Bottom line is there's something in the door, or in the door panel, or in a part that is on the door (master window control unit, maybe?), that vibrates and causes a vibration rattle upon shutting the door. The noise is there for only a beat, but it comes off cheap sounding.

    They told me they had the door apart, even removed the window, etc, and had their top guy on the case, but they did not find the cause.

    Is there anyone out there who knows of this, and has found the solution? The front passenger side door does not do this. The dealer said they looked at another '06 CTS that was in, and that car had the same noise. They don't deny hearing the noise, but they can't isolate and fix it. If more than one CTS of this vintage has this noise, certainly other owners have heard it, so I'm hoping someone has dealt with it successfully,

    I appreciate any input from my fellow CTS drivers.

    Thanks,
    Rob
  • xtranautxtranaut Posts: 27
    In 07, I rewarded myself with an 07 Corvette. I traded the two cars that were paid for and a little cas to get it so I owe 13k and have three years to pay at 346. a month. Lots of people envy that situation as most go out of a limb to pay 700 to 1000 bucks a month to own a Corvette. BUT I lost my job and my wife was diagnosed with cancer so I am being squeezed financially and watching my life savings dwindle. I took my issue and solution to many car dealers who had no sympathy and saw everything as black and white - not even willing to deal off their used car price to compensate for the dismal wholesale they offered my on my cvette (the car still smells new after 2 years and only 8500k miles) ONE dealer with a very real christian attitude went out of their way to find a late model car with like equipment, low miles and one owner and adjusted the price on their car to show more for my trade to make the deal. The car is an 06 CTS with 24,400. Its a one owner local loaded with power seats, moonroof, nav,6-cd bose, xm, dvd, xenon and sports package that included ltd slip and 17 wheels. It has a few dings bu nothing major. It's a great looking car but after reading all of the problems with oil use, rear ends, engine shutdowns, tire wear and lots of other rattles and shimmys, I am flat scared to do the deal and I know this car will be gone soon if I don't do it. I have had my vette listed by owner at a price less than dealers would ask but not one call. I KNOW my vette has been babied and without ONE mechanical problem as yet. Some of these Caddys are going into the shop for ridiculous stuff within the first six months. Having owned BMWs, Mercedes and Vettes, I am not used to a new annoyance so often. I need honest opinions. Is this something you would do if you were in my situation??? Many thanks.
  • robh3robh3 Posts: 157
    xtranaut -

    I'm not sure that I fully understand the deal here: is this a trade where you will end up with the CTS and then own it free and clear with no monthly payments? If so, it sounds to me as though that is the financial situation that you are looking to get back to (after once having two paid-for vehicles that were part of the deal to get the 'Vette).

    Given your current life's situation, I think this is a good deal. The CTS is obviously no 'Vette, but it's not like trading down to a Corolla or Camry or Impala.

    I don't know of any cars that don't have problems. ANY. Most of the people posting on here are posting BECAUSE they have a problem. Think of the many thousands of other CTS owners who aren't posting problems because they don't have any.

    The '06 CTS you refer to is obviously loaded with all the options. Have the dealer remove the few dings (paintless dent removal) as part of the deal (I had one such ding removed from my car as part of my deal). You will then have a beautiful, very low mileage CTS Sport that's fully loaded, four doors and a trunk, and no monthy payments.

    One question for you: Is this car going to be a Certified Pre-Owned Cadillac for warranty purposes? That's certainly of huge importance. Make sure it is.

    I think it goes without saying that if your current life situation weren't what it is, you wouldn't be looking to get rid of the Corvette. But life is life and things have changed. As I recall, the '06 CTS has rated well overall in quality in Consumer Reports, in crash safety with the IIHS, and with consumers overall. On Edmunds you are going to hear both extremes: the people who love their cars and want to brag about them online, and others who have experienced some issues they are looking for some guidance on. The other 99% of CTS owners we never hear from. Some people go on to buy another CTS or other Caddy, and some change brands, but that's the same story with all car brands.

    I wish you all the best and your wife a return to good health. You can get another Corvette in the future. Right now the best gift that your Corvette can bring to your and your wife's lives is a Cadillac - gosh, a CADILLAC - that's in like-new condition with low mileage and, most importantly, no monthly payment.

    I love my CTS. I marvel at it's sharp, distinct looks every time I walk up to it in a parking lot. I have NO REGRETS about getting this car. I believe you have a very good deal on your hands and you should take it. As you said, you "know the car will be gone soon if you don't do it". And, you've already tested the market for your car by posting it for sale by owner with no bites. This dealer, with apparent Christian beliefs, has a solution for you. It might not be perfect, but it's a sound solution. And, it's not for the rest of YOUR life.

    Given what I know of your situation, and having recently purchased a pre-owned Certified '06 CTS Sport with low mileage, I believe you should do the deal.

    Respectfully,
    Rob
  • xtranautxtranaut Posts: 27
    Rob,

    Yes, I did leave that one important thing out. Aside of owing 13k on the vette, I would have have the dealer give me enough in trade to pay it off and still be able to have enough remaining cash in the deal to do an even trade so i wouldn't have payments.

    I guess the biggest obstacle to doing this is that I love the vette and know the car is perfect and well kept. Appearances can be deceiving ad you never know if someone has even kept the oil changed in their car, much less pampered it when you go to get a used car.

    Second, I am cocerned about the common threads in the complaints on CTS..and in particular, the 06. Tire wear, excessive oil use, rear end, vibrations, loss of fuel supply to the engine, and some people act like they were shocked at the gas mileage they were getting but few ever said that was below the 17 mpg city at which the car was rated.

    This is, by miles, the best offer I have had to remedy my problem...in fact, the only offer. Could be God gave this to me and it's time to act on faith.

    I hesitated this weekend in hopes of getting a better perspective for guidance.
    So I am hoping it is still there on MONDAY.

    My mind isn't so sharp in the decision department these days with so much adversity going on in my life and that is why I cam eto this board to try and find answers as thoughtful as yours.

    Thank you
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