(Actually it is not the same Trooper...my 99 got t-boned December 2004.)
Oh yeah, I remember that.....dang it's been a while. Well I think you'll like the Silver after a while. I settled for the Blizzard Pearl........wish I had either the Silver or that Everglade Green........oh well still content with the purchase. Remember to check out Kelly's place (RAVMAN).....Good stuff there as well :shades:
Has Toyota started including the towing "pre-wiring" in the Towing Prep Package for 2008 models? My understanding was that the TPP did NOT include this, in fact the pre-wiring is not listed with the TPP but is listed as an available accessory (included with hitch installation) in the brochure. But I am looking at the build sheet for my incoming RAV4 and it lists:
Towing Prep Package - V6 3,500lb. Towing Capacity - Includes Upgrade Radiator, Fan Coupling, Alternator, and Pre-WIring
It would be nice if that was the case; it was kind of a rip-off the way they were selling a TPP without the pre-wiring...
I found the same problem, the hissing sound on your i-pod is caused when the i-pod is charging. If you take the chargning unit out of the 12v plug you should not have the hissing problem. The only problem is that you will have to charge the i-pod either outside of your RAV4 or charge it when you are not using it. Let me know if this solves your problem.
I agree. My wife and I rented a Rav4 just to make sure we considered and tested everything on the vehicle (can't do much on a dealer test drive but take it up to 75mph and then through town at 35). Renting is a pretty cheap investment for a complete test of the vehicle. We decided to purchase a Rav4 because of the rental test and we love the vehicle.
I am currently driving Rav4 4-WD. The car does not lock itself after i start it and driving. Also if i manually lock the car while driving then it does not unlock after i stop the car. I have key less entry and this seems to be very basic feature. Even 1997 Honda Accord i won have it. Can someone tell me if this feature exist? Is there some setup i am missing or this could be a defect?
Went into town this morning to buy a 2008 Cr-V to supplement our Honda stable (CR-V 2002, and Honda 13HP-driven generator). Thought I'd call in at the Toyota dealership on the way in to see if they had free coffee (they did). The salesman came over and we chatted about the 2008 RAV4 V6 I was looking at. Took it for a test drive on the highway at 120km/h. Wow! Ha! Bad move. Just bought a 2008 RAV4 with the V6. 3rd row seats are a joke. My BIG black lab will sit over them on his $121 cargo liner, and we'll live happily ever after. I've never been so impressed with any other car. I can't wait to burn off the all-season tires so that I can install winter tires. Yeah, baby! Although, I must say that my CR-V with Michelin X-Ice winter tires is great. Super-Dooper Tuesday indeed! Now. How can I tell my wife?
Yebut. She goes to Florida in two weeks, for two weeks, and I'm supposed to sit here stewing, because the car I bought is still at the dealership? I need better answers, Steve. Hair dryers ain't gonna do it. (Thanks on the congrats, BTW. I was blown away by the power, when I decided to overtake the car in front of me. What a vehicle! V6. Fantastic.) Sob. I can't get it until Feb 18. Even my 2002 CR-V is weeping. My black lab is, as always, just asking for food. How much more is my insurance going to escalate? Does anyone know? Does anyone care? (I don't)
Heh, it took a couple of weeks for my 2008 V6 to come in after I "ordered" it, which was definitely some sort of torture.
I have had mine for 9 days now, and I like it very much. My black lab hasn't set her muddy paws in it yet, but it'll happen eventually...made sure I got the gray interior instead of taupe. Almost worth buying a Sport for that dark charcoal interior, would've matched the lab fur nicely, but mine's just a Base.
I am finding it very hard not to see just how fast it is, which you are not supposed to do during this break-in period...another form of torture
Regarding insurance, I was shocked to find my insurance only went up $90/6 months from my 11-year old Tahoe to the brand new RAV4...I was bracing to get hammered worse than that, since the RAV is worth eight times what the Tahoe was.
The cost of liability insurance overshadows collision insurance but a WIDE margin, probably multiples.
A Tahoe can do a LOT more damage than a RAV4 in an accident but what is probably more important to the insurance companys is the driver's "I'm in an armoured vehicle" driving attitude in a Tahoe vs the RAV4.
You could very well be right about that, but I figured the replacement cost for comprehensive and collision is so much higher for the new vehicle it would outweigh any liability difference...
My local dealership has about a dozen new RAV4s on the lot, in various colours. I didn't notice how many were V6, or what the trim level was. We deliberately stay away from dark interior colours because of the temperature rise (if the sun ever shines again). Mine is also a base, but I can't believe the bells and whistles it comes with. I have spoken to my insurance broker a couple of times, but I haven't asked about premiums. I don't want to know!
the V6 RAV4 looks very good in terms of gas consumption. How accurate is this, though?
My wife goes to FL on Sunday, Feb 17, and I had arranged pickup of the RAV4 on Monday Feb 18. Now, I am reminded that this is our (Ontario) new "Family Day" statutory holiday, so I will have to pick up on the Tuesday. That, my friend, is torture!
I bought mine from the largest Toyota dealer in the state...I got one of the TWO Base V6s they were allocated for all of February. So they are around, but usually you have to jump on them when available...and it is difficult to get them to deal on the V6s. I went through a fleet dealer to get mine at invoice price, otherwise the best I was offered from another dealer was $750 off of MSRP.
The only penalty for the V6 is in the purchase price. For example the EPA rating for an AWD RAV4, the I4 is 20 city 25 highway, the V6 is 19 city 26 highway.
I haven't taken a trip with mine yet, only have 325 miles so far. Got 21.2 mpg so far in city/suburban driving (in very cold weather). Others have reported in the upper 20s on the highway.
Congrats on the new RAV4. I'm also in Ontario and I'd forgotten about the new long weekend this year. Schweet.
We have about 18k km on our V6 Limited and think very highly of it. I think you'll be pleased. Insurance-wise, going from a Subaru Impreza to the RAV4 really didn't change the premiums much - surprisingly.
Fuel economy is not bad around town for the size of the vehicle and engine (we average 18 mpg (US) in winter and 22 mpg in summer) but it's at its best on highway cruises when the rpms drop right down in 5th gear. 27-28 mpg is no problem if you can resist putting your foot into it too often.
Amygud Just to let you know, there is a TSB out at Toyota for the noise you describe in your Aux input. Your dealer can install a filter that will eliminate that whine in your stereo when listening to your ipod. Check with your dealer and see if they can help you. If not, let me know, and there is another solution I can offer that I use on mine. Hope this helps.
Here is the info you need for the noise problem. http://www.rav4world.com/tsb/2007/AU004-07.pdf If you cant open this link, its TSB ( Tech Service Bulletin # AU004-7. Your dealer will know what that means. They should resolve your problem at NO cost to you.
Most modern day HVAC systems use the A/C all year around, except with OAT below ~34F, for purposes of dehumidifying the incoming airflow. The SLOWER that airflow moves through the A/C evaporator the higher is the probability it will be cooled to its dewpoint and therefore somewhat dehumidified.
The second issue is to have the lowest noise level possible.
I find it best to keep the A/C COMPLETELY disabled during the winter months, run the system initially in automatic until the blower starts up (engine coolant reaches 130F) and then switch the system to MAXIMUM heating and into combined footwell/windshield outlet airflow mode. With automatic climate control systems the blower speed will go into MAXIMUM mode and it is best to lower the speed to reduce the noise level to something more acceptable.
As the cabin temperature rises closer and closer to my comfort level I incrementally lower the temperature setpoint. That would usually be ~72F If it were not for the need to keep the interior windshield surface above the dewpoint of the cabin atmosphere, WELL above that dewpoint, in the winter months.
With a significant portion of the WARM system airflow being cooled via flowing over a COLD windshield surface I seem to end up with a long term (greater than 15-20 minutes of travel time) setting of ~75F for a reasonable passenger comfort level.
Basically I find that the automatic mode goes TOO far in trying to not discomfort passengers with "overly" warm airflow and noisy blower speeds.
Using the above method I can both bring the cabin much more quickly to a comfortably warm level and prevent (mostly) those instances of sudden windshield fogging for which these systems are famous.
The fan is not weak, the speed settings are just calibrated differently than you are used to. I think it is nice to have more choices at the lower speeds.
SDC2 is correct, most modern day systems now use PWM, Pulse Width Modulation, to control lower blower motor speeds, giving an infinite number of speeds vs the old dropping resistor(s) method.
That, of course, results in the system using those now available lower blower speeds in order improve dehumidification capability and reduce the cabin noise level. Once the cabin temperature, AIR temperature, is near or at your temperature setpoint during the winter months it doesn't take much make-up airflow to keep it there.
Additionally most new cars are extraordinarily well sealed against air outflow. The theory being that once the cabin atmosphere is "conditioned" then don't let it "escape".
The fallacy in that design approach, addressing only the issue of cabin air temperature, is that the human body comfort equation is as much due to radiant heating, or lack thereof, as it is to surrounding air temperature.
You might be entirely comfortable at ~70F in the interior of your home on the coldest day of winter with all the "surround" already heated to that 70F level. But now move yourself nearby a large picture window wherein a good portion of your body's "surrounding" landscape is snow and ice covered and you will undoubtedly begin to feel chilled.
In your car you cannot "escape" the radiant cooling effects of the surrounding snow or ice covered, or even just COLD, landscape so that otherwise normal 70F temperature setpoint will leave you COLD.
On a day, or night, traveling with a COLD outside landscape, raise the setpoint to something more in the range of 75F and change the system outflow to combined footwell and windshield airflow. The "warmish" airflow to the COLD windshield will be somewhat cooled before it reaches your face and upper body.
Personally I have ALWAYS disabled my A/C compressor during the winter months and now that these new systems are so potentially HAZARDOUS if left in operation I am carefull to NEVER allow the A/C to operate during cold weather.
Thankfully Toyota and Lexus, via new c-best options, have made it much easier to accomplish that rather than getting under the hood to disconnect the A/C compressor clutch wire.
Yes, there will undoubtedly, be cold air flowing downward off of the cold window surface. But my point is that the COLD outside surrounding landscape, unlike an interior room with no windows, will adversely contribute to human comfort.
I could put you in an atmosphere of 72F airflow, fully surrounding 72F airflow, but surrounded by blocks of ice, and the net result would be that you feel chilled.
I could put you in an atmosphere of 72F airflow, fully surrounding 72F airflow, but surrounded by blocks of ice, and the net result would be that you feel chilled.
Obviously. But thermodynamics dictates that the ice will cool the air. The 72 °F airflow simply cannot remain a 72 °F airflow. The same happens to the air when it loses thermal energy due to radiation. However you want to pick the nits, yes, the total environment does affect your comfort.
I have the base model and the speeds are fixed...but there are 5 speeds instead of the 4 all my previous vehicles have had. I do find myself using 2 a lot instead of 1 like I used to...but I have only had short trips so far and this cold winter has me wanting to heat up the cabin quickly. On a longer trips I expect I will drop to 1 once things are warmed up...heading out of town tonight so we'll see.
But if you turn the fan to the highest setting, I think you will see the fan is just a powerful as any other.
"But if you turn the fan to the highest setting..."
Not necessarily. In fresh inlet air mode you have the issue of the exhauster port having enough flow capacity to allow the fan to move as much air as it might without the back pressure resulting from a smallish exhauster port.
My new 2008 RAV4 (1200miles) has a rattle in the dash, but only on rough roads. We also have a 2001 Highlander, with a glove box latch rattle, but that's not it. Also not any of the loose items stored up front. Any ideas? (Other than stay off rough roads!)
Could be a lot of things of course...what kind of rattle, metallic, plastic? Could be worth diving under there and making sure the wiring harness isn't close enough to anything to slap against it. They do a lot of strapping to prevent it, but it doesn't take much to rattle.
The only rattles I have at the moment are from the loose change storage in the console...not really thrilled with that setup. Might have to pad it somehow...
We are considering buying a new Rav 4 - 6 cylinder.We own a 6 cylinder Subaru Ouback and like the AWD - will the Rav have a similar system? Also, we are concerned about the trunk door on the Rav - it opens to the side - how inconvenient is this? Would you know how the Rav would compare to the 2009 Forester (turbo)?
We did not buy a Rav due to the hatch door. In my opinion it is a dumb design. Opens to the side which is bad enough, but then it also is hinged on the wrong side for the North American driver.
Depends on your perspective I guess...as a tall guy I have cracked my head on enough open liftgates to appreciated a swing door. And I rarely park at the curb, so the direction it swings is good for me and works well in my garage for unloading groceries and such, because the door to the house is to the left.
The RAV is amazing roomy, on a recent ski trip I transported 4 people, a black lab, skis and snowboards and luggage...with the V6 I was passing with ease on 2-lane highways. Got 24 mpg into a howling headwind with a ski rack on top...very few vehicles can do all of that.
Unless I am wrong I don't believe you can even get factory leather on a sport model. I am guessing it would have to be added by the dealer so you would get whatever steering wheel the sport usually has.
I just got my V6 Ltd Rav4 last month and living in NYC I wanted to get the brush guards for the front and the back to "try" to help minimize scratches. I wanted to get the rear skid bar but does anyone know if I can install that with the tow harness? Someone had told me that I would need to remove the harness to install the bar since it uses the same pre-drilled holes. I wanted to know if this was accurate or not.
I see Toyota makes a very nice looking Ft bumper guard ,they call it a nudge bar. unfortunately they only sell it in Australia and New Zealand, with shipping it's over $700. Anyone know how to get one here or a brand that would look good on a 08 Sport? Thanks, JonVet
The Aussies are pretty rigid about bullbar specs since the metal non-energy absorbing ones are a hazard to pedestrians. There's a full EU ban on the sale of rigid ones. That may explain why they aren't too common outside of kangaroo country.
Steve & Tidester I am very interested in buying a new 200999999 RAV-4. Any clue when they will become available. Know Toyota has out the 2009 Matrix and Corolla but I need a 7 seater. Have read up on 2009 RAV-4, now the question is the earliest date I can get one. Need it by mid-July. Thanks lots for your insight.
Dealers aren't interested in telling me when the 2009 RAV-4 will be available, we all know they only want a quick sale and a 'tough' question like this is way beyond their interest in answering. How can I get ahold of the SE Toyota big boys who can provide me the answer? Thanks, experts.
It's a bit early for the 09 RAV4. I believe a refresh is in the works. I've posted pictures on my CarSpace of what I believe will be the next 09 RAV. The spare tire will be relocated to the bottom of the vehicle. The grille will be re-worked, and also the tail lights. I would expect the 09 Ravs to be in around sep-oct time frame. Mack p.s. Toyota misread the market and over produced trucks and suv's. Story was out on Automotive News weekly. That would explain why we have so much inventory on ground right now. :shades:
We've ordered a Rav4 V6 Limited with leather seats and a tow-prep package. It now looks like such a vehicle may not be available. At least my dealer says the ones listed on the Southeast Toyota website are not his allocation and he'll try to get one from another dealer. He does have a vehicle with fabric seats and says he'll be able to replace them with leather if he can't get the Rav4 we ordered. My dealer explains that he does business with a really good upholsterer who does this kind of work. Apparently, it's not simply a case of removing the cloth seats and replacing them with stock Toyota leather seats. He reupholsters the seats in the car ! Has anyone had this dealer replacement of cloth with leather performed ? What were the results ? We're a little leery of this procedure.
Some people think they get better results aftermarket instead of going with the factory leather.
You could ask the dealer for the shop name and drop by and look at some work in progress. Some people prefer to go with a national name, like Katskins.
Comments
Oh yeah, I remember that.....dang it's been a while. Well I think you'll like the Silver after a while. I settled for the Blizzard Pearl........wish I had either the Silver or that Everglade Green........oh well still content with the purchase. Remember to check out Kelly's place (RAVMAN).....Good stuff there as well :shades:
Towing Prep Package - V6 3,500lb. Towing Capacity - Includes Upgrade Radiator, Fan Coupling, Alternator, and Pre-WIring
It would be nice if that was the case; it was kind of a rip-off the way they were selling a TPP without the pre-wiring...
My wife and I rented a Rav4 just to make sure we considered and tested everything on the vehicle (can't do much on a dealer test drive but take it up to 75mph and then through town at 35).
Renting is a pretty cheap investment for a complete test of the vehicle. We decided to purchase a Rav4 because of the rental test and we love the vehicle.
Thought I'd call in at the Toyota dealership on the way in to see if they had free coffee (they did).
The salesman came over and we chatted about the 2008 RAV4 V6 I was looking at.
Took it for a test drive on the highway at 120km/h.
Wow!
Ha! Bad move. Just bought a 2008 RAV4 with the V6.
3rd row seats are a joke. My BIG black lab will sit over them on his $121 cargo liner, and we'll live happily ever after.
I've never been so impressed with any other car.
I can't wait to burn off the all-season tires so that I can install winter tires.
Yeah, baby!
Although, I must say that my CR-V with Michelin X-Ice winter tires is great.
Super-Dooper Tuesday indeed!
Now. How can I tell my wife?
Dave from Canada
Maybe you could take a hair dryer to the RAV4 badges and peel them off. :shades:
Congrats on the new ride!
She goes to Florida in two weeks, for two weeks, and I'm supposed to sit here stewing, because the car I bought is still at the dealership?
I need better answers, Steve. Hair dryers ain't gonna do it.
(Thanks on the congrats, BTW. I was blown away by the power, when I decided to overtake the car in front of me. What a vehicle! V6. Fantastic.)
Sob. I can't get it until Feb 18.
Even my 2002 CR-V is weeping.
My black lab is, as always, just asking for food.
How much more is my insurance going to escalate? Does anyone know?
Does anyone care?
(I don't)
I have had mine for 9 days now, and I like it very much. My black lab hasn't set her muddy paws in it yet, but it'll happen eventually...made sure I got the gray interior instead of taupe. Almost worth buying a Sport for that dark charcoal interior, would've matched the lab fur nicely, but mine's just a Base.
I am finding it very hard not to see just how fast it is, which you are not supposed to do during this break-in period...another form of torture
Regarding insurance, I was shocked to find my insurance only went up $90/6 months from my 11-year old Tahoe to the brand new RAV4...I was bracing to get hammered worse than that, since the RAV is worth eight times what the Tahoe was.
A Tahoe can do a LOT more damage than a RAV4 in an accident but what is probably more important to the insurance companys is the driver's "I'm in an armoured vehicle" driving attitude in a Tahoe vs the RAV4.
We deliberately stay away from dark interior colours because of the temperature rise (if the sun ever shines again). Mine is also a base, but I can't believe the bells and whistles it comes with.
I have spoken to my insurance broker a couple of times, but I haven't asked about premiums. I don't want to know!
On the government website,
http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/findacar.htm
(sorry, I couldn't make it link)
the V6 RAV4 looks very good in terms of gas consumption. How accurate is this, though?
My wife goes to FL on Sunday, Feb 17, and I had arranged pickup of the RAV4 on Monday Feb 18.
Now, I am reminded that this is our (Ontario) new "Family Day" statutory holiday, so I will have to pick up on the Tuesday.
That, my friend, is torture!
The only penalty for the V6 is in the purchase price. For example the EPA rating for an AWD RAV4, the I4 is 20 city 25 highway, the V6 is 19 city 26 highway.
I haven't taken a trip with mine yet, only have 325 miles so far. Got 21.2 mpg so far in city/suburban driving (in very cold weather). Others have reported in the upper 20s on the highway.
And remember Dave, anticipation is the best part.
We have about 18k km on our V6 Limited and think very highly of it. I think you'll be pleased. Insurance-wise, going from a Subaru Impreza to the RAV4 really didn't change the premiums much - surprisingly.
Fuel economy is not bad around town for the size of the vehicle and engine (we average 18 mpg (US) in winter and 22 mpg in summer) but it's at its best on highway cruises when the rpms drop right down in 5th gear. 27-28 mpg is no problem if you can resist putting your foot into it too often.
Enjoy!
http://www.toyota.de/Images/t7_rav05_car_gal_02_1024_tcm281-356873.jpg
http://www.toyota.de/Images/t7_rav05_car_gal_24_1024_tcm281-356961.jpg
Would be nice if they could offer this in the USA
It comes in a Diesel version too
Just to let you know, there is a TSB out at Toyota for the noise you describe in your Aux input. Your dealer can install a filter that will eliminate that whine in your stereo when listening to your ipod. Check with your dealer and see if they can help you. If not, let me know, and there is another solution I can offer that I use on mine. Hope this helps.
If you cant open this link, its TSB ( Tech Service Bulletin # AU004-7. Your dealer will know what that means. They should resolve your problem at NO cost to you.
I just got my 2008 last week, and it struck me immediately that I need to use the 3 or 4 position on the fan, the lower two don't put out much air.
I checked another Rav4 on the showroom floor tonight, and it is the same.
Anyone feel the same?
The second issue is to have the lowest noise level possible.
I find it best to keep the A/C COMPLETELY disabled during the winter months, run the system initially in automatic until the blower starts up (engine coolant reaches 130F) and then switch the system to MAXIMUM heating and into combined footwell/windshield outlet airflow mode. With automatic climate control systems the blower speed will go into MAXIMUM mode and it is best to lower the speed to reduce the noise level to something more acceptable.
As the cabin temperature rises closer and closer to my comfort level I incrementally lower the temperature setpoint. That would usually be ~72F If it were not for the need to keep the interior windshield surface above the dewpoint of the cabin atmosphere, WELL above that dewpoint, in the winter months.
With a significant portion of the WARM system airflow being cooled via flowing over a COLD windshield surface I seem to end up with a long term (greater than 15-20 minutes of travel time) setting of ~75F for a reasonable passenger comfort level.
Basically I find that the automatic mode goes TOO far in trying to not discomfort passengers with "overly" warm airflow and noisy blower speeds.
Using the above method I can both bring the cabin much more quickly to a comfortably warm level and prevent (mostly) those instances of sudden windshield fogging for which these systems are famous.
That, of course, results in the system using those now available lower blower speeds in order improve dehumidification capability and reduce the cabin noise level. Once the cabin temperature, AIR temperature, is near or at your temperature setpoint during the winter months it doesn't take much make-up airflow to keep it there.
Additionally most new cars are extraordinarily well sealed against air outflow. The theory being that once the cabin atmosphere is "conditioned" then don't let it "escape".
The fallacy in that design approach, addressing only the issue of cabin air temperature, is that the human body comfort equation is as much due to radiant heating, or lack thereof, as it is to surrounding air temperature.
You might be entirely comfortable at ~70F in the interior of your home on the coldest day of winter with all the "surround" already heated to that 70F level. But now move yourself nearby a large picture window wherein a good portion of your body's "surrounding" landscape is snow and ice covered and you will undoubtedly begin to feel chilled.
In your car you cannot "escape" the radiant cooling effects of the surrounding snow or ice covered, or even just COLD, landscape so that otherwise normal 70F temperature setpoint will leave you COLD.
On a day, or night, traveling with a COLD outside landscape, raise the setpoint to something more in the range of 75F and change the system outflow to combined footwell and windshield airflow. The "warmish" airflow to the COLD windshield will be somewhat cooled before it reaches your face and upper body.
Personally I have ALWAYS disabled my A/C compressor during the winter months and now that these new systems are so potentially HAZARDOUS if left in operation I am carefull to NEVER allow the A/C to operate during cold weather.
Thankfully Toyota and Lexus, via new c-best options, have made it much easier to accomplish that rather than getting under the hood to disconnect the A/C compressor clutch wire.
They are not unrelated. When you move yourself over to the large picture window the air temperature is lower.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I could put you in an atmosphere of 72F airflow, fully surrounding 72F airflow, but surrounded by blocks of ice, and the net result would be that you feel chilled.
Obviously. But thermodynamics dictates that the ice will cool the air. The 72 °F airflow simply cannot remain a 72 °F airflow. The same happens to the air when it loses thermal energy due to radiation. However you want to pick the nits, yes, the total environment does affect your comfort.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Are you saying that the speeds on the fan control are not fixed, that there is some logic to them?
But if you turn the fan to the highest setting, I think you will see the fan is just a powerful as any other.
Not necessarily. In fresh inlet air mode you have the issue of the exhauster port having enough flow capacity to allow the fan to move as much air as it might without the back pressure resulting from a smallish exhauster port.
The only rattles I have at the moment are from the loose change storage in the console...not really thrilled with that setup. Might have to pad it somehow...
Also, we are concerned about the trunk door on the Rav - it opens to the side - how inconvenient is this?
Would you know how the Rav would compare to the 2009 Forester (turbo)?
The RAV is amazing roomy, on a recent ski trip I transported 4 people, a black lab, skis and snowboards and luggage...with the V6 I was passing with ease on 2-lane highways. Got 24 mpg into a howling headwind with a ski rack on top...very few vehicles can do all of that.
thanks,
metmdx
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I couldn't determine this definitely by reading the brochure. It looks as though you may only get the leather steering wheel on the RAV Limited.
The Aussies are pretty rigid about bullbar specs since the metal non-energy absorbing ones are a hazard to pedestrians. There's a full EU ban on the sale of rigid ones. That may explain why they aren't too common outside of kangaroo country.
Try the SEMA consumer site and check around the Member Directory. EnjoyTheDrive
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Mack
p.s. Toyota misread the market and over produced trucks and suv's. Story was out on Automotive News weekly. That would explain why we have so much inventory on ground right now.
:shades:
He does have a vehicle with fabric seats and says he'll be able to replace them with leather if he can't get the Rav4 we ordered.
My dealer explains that he does business with a really good upholsterer who does this kind of work. Apparently, it's not simply a case of removing the cloth seats and replacing them with stock Toyota leather seats. He reupholsters the seats in the car !
Has anyone had this dealer replacement of cloth with leather performed ? What were the results ? We're a little leery of this procedure.
You could ask the dealer for the shop name and drop by and look at some work in progress. Some people prefer to go with a national name, like Katskins.