Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
-juice
I can hear the (Shift interlock) noise in the dash but the car will not go into gear. Another forum mentioned that i check the voltage on the sensor that has the but that is pressed in when the brake is not pressed. I would really like to know if the cable needs to be replaced or if something else is going on with the car as it seems as if several other people are having similar problems with the same model.
Sadly, there is no recall for this problem, but only several people describing the same problem.
If you discover how to fix this problem, I would be interested in the approach you took as it would greatly help me fix my ongoing problem. The car is in great shape, besides the oil leaks, and I intend on keeping it for a while.
Any questions or ideas can be forwarded to my email as well.
adam.dobbins@gmail.com
I can hear the "shift interlock" or whatever it is that makes the clicking noise in the dash, but the car will not shift from park.
Does the sensor (or black button/switch) on the brake, when you press the brake, have anything to do with this problem. I was able to change gears without the brake pressed later after the car finally was not stuck in park.
Any information with this matter would be helpfull as it seems as if many other Subaru owners are experiencing the same problems.
Maybe this should be added to the recall list. How would something of this nature become a recall?
A transmission shop looked at it, but at that time it would not happen (They kept it for a day) So we flushed the system and things worked fine. It's back again, but this time intermittently it just doesn't engage for a time. Putting it in rear works all the time.
I called a transmission shop again and they tell me that in the last year they see this all the time on these Subarus to the tune of 2-3 a month. The say that some transmission seal is wearing off due to some bad design and it they need to take a part the the transmission to fix it ($1200 - $1600).
The cars' been great up to this point. I noticed some other discussions around similar issues. Anybody have the same problem or has gone through this as well? Is there another approach?
Thanks...martin
Here's what one person told me:
http://www.forumsubaru.com/showthread.php?t=5636&goto=newpost
And here is another forum where people have been discussing the issue to a greater extent:
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=20378
-mike
Well we got a new engine for it and a new wiring harness. Instead of dealing with the nightmare of rewiring everything beyond the firewall we cut the wiring harnesses about ten inches into the engine compartment and matched the wires up. We managed to get almost all the wires properly reconnected, but there are two red/yellow wires coming from the inside of the car that do not have matching wires to connect to. In addition to that, there are two grey coaxial wires that we determined were for the O2 sensors. One of them is fried from shorting out all the way into the car and locating the other end of it to run a new one would require removing the dash. Don't know if that's worth it. Also there is no way to determine which coax goes were because the two are identical.
The only wires that remain to be connected are a few coming from two switches on the transmission, the wires to the O2 sensors and the two unaccounted for red/yellow wires.
We plugged everything in and decided to see if it would fire up. When we reconnected the battery we noticed that the parking lights as well as the dash lights were blinking, 30 times, pause, 30 times... and so on with or without the key in the ignition. The engine did turn over but it would not fire so we decided to check for spark and fuel. We discovered that the car is not getting any fuel and there is no spark either. Thinking maybe the computer needs to be reset?
At this point we are pretty much dead in the water and really need some experienced advice. Anyone who has any ideas would be very appreciated. This whole project has already gone well over original estimates and I'm afraid professional electrical diagnostics may cost us a tremendous amount. PLEASE HELP!!!
In general, it is most advisable to retain the original wiring, sensors, etc., and match it up to the replacement engine, but obviously you cannot do that in this case. A Haynes manual for this year includes wiring diagrams for most (if not all) electrical systems, though I will admit that the diagrams listed did not match up precisely with the wiring in my '96... the color coding on some of the wires was not the same. Without wiring diagrams and knowing whether all the sensors on the replacement engine are compatible with the 96's ECU, it could be a long, arduous task to get it to run.
the oxygen sensors provide feedback to the fuel management system, so it is important to get them into operation. It is a shame that something so seemingly mundane as a small fire could result in a total loss on a vehicle, but alas, you now see why it can be more trouble than it is worth! :sick:
Boggling that there would be differences in harness wire colors and quantities if both sides are from the same year, model, and engine. Consistency, people, consistency!!!!! :mad:
Any suggestions? Has anyone run into this before? Is this something the mechanic really may not have had a clue about as he replaced the transmission?
He's basically saying 'make do without a speedometer' which I don't think is legal?
Thanks for any advice.
-mike
The company providing the used tranny wholesale to the mechanic will send a replacement tranny but not cover labor to pull and reinstall. The mechanic is also saying we could go through all of that again and there's still no way they can assure that the speedo will work with a different tranny. He also said this issue comes up on the IATN memebership list a fair amount and in almost every case, the customer elects to just drive without a working speedometer. Which I find a bit strange.
-mike
are there any more fusible links some where else on the car PLEASE HELP
-mike
I have a 2007 2.5i Outback with a manual transmission. I have found that it's rather difficult to shift it into gear at times. Has anyone else had this problem? Are there any solutions? Would a short-shifter reduce the amount of muscle needed to shift?. I would appreciate any input!
Thanks
When you say that it is difficult to shift into gears, are you specifically referring to reverse and 1st gears? I have trouble with those at times as well. I find that, often, if I let out on the clutch and then repress it, the gear is much easier to engage. If that does not work, slowly (and I do mean slowly) letting out on the clutch while gently, but firmly, pressing the shifter toward the desired gear will work. Just as the transmission is beginning to engage, the gears will mesh. I think the problem is that the gear teeth are just butting up against each other instead of meshing.
Also, switching to a different gear lube may help. I put AMSOIL 75W-90 long life in mine about 3 weeks ago and it has been "behaving" itself much better since then. I have heard that Redline Shockproof works very well, but have not tried it.
If first it tough to engage, try reverse then first. Or vice-versa. The gears are right next to each other. :shades:
I have never had a problem with 5th gear not wanting to engage, though it does require more effort than 3 or 4. 2nd is usually smooth, at least on the up-shift, though it also requires extra effort on a down-shift. Occasionally it will "miss" for some reason when up-shifting. I press the clutch and go to shift from 1 to 2, and it actually grinds. I have to leave it in neutral, let up on the clutch and re-press it, then it slips right in. Quite unnerving/embarrassing when it happens, but so far it has been only maybe 8 times in the 3.5 months I have had the car.
I want to say there was in improvement but I wonder if it's just wishful thinking.
It'd be a shame to have to change gear oil on a brand new car! :mad:
Then again, old school thinking is to change fluids early to remove all the metallic particles from break-in. :P
Jim
Are the bulbs stock wattage? i.e. 55 watts? Some bulbs draw up to 120 and that could be the cause.
I'll run Amsoil in the engine, trans, and rear diffy, water wetter in the radiator
-mike
There's little demand to begin with, as those lights tend to last a decade or so.
Maybe try a junk yard if you want the whole part?
By the time you remove the switch, though, may as well just go all the way.
-mike
-mike
-mike