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subaru transmission problems

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  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'm sure there were a few, but I never noticed a significant pattern of problems, like we did for head gaskets (2002 and earlier) and wheel bearings (Forester and Impreza before 2003).
  • 60640subaru60640subaru Member Posts: 1
    Our 2004 Forester 2.5x has recently developed a "shift flare" when you first drive it after it's been parked overnight; the car will hit about 2,800 RPMs in second gear and then jump to more than 3,000 RPMs before shifting into third. It only does it for the first two or three minutes and doesn't do it in any of the other gears.

    Our local dealer wasn't able to duplicate the problem, and they gave us a Subaru technical bulletin that says the shift flare is a "unique characteristic" of our automatic transmission. But we've had the car for more than two years and it never did this until a few weeks ago. It started shifting awkwardly in the cold weather--and now it does it pretty much every morning.

    So is this just a harmless quirk in our transmission? Or are we looking at a serious--and expensive--problem? And what, exactly, should I have the dealer look at the next time I bring it into the shop?

    The car has less than 28,000 miles on it, so I'm a little concerned/peeved that I may need a new transmission already. Any input would be greatly appreciated...
  • charitymcharitym Member Posts: 2
    hey there,
    I'm currently in the process of deciding whether or not I want to purchase a '99 Forester AWD with an automatic transmission from my aunt. She's been letting me use the car over the past 6 weeks, so I can get a feel for it before I decide to buy it.
    Over the past 3 weeks I've been noticing a few problems that I've previously never had with any car. *Please keep in mind I'm not that mechanically inclined so some of my descriptions of what's happening might not make perfect sense.
    So here's whats happening: Occasionally when stopped at a light or stop sign, the idle gets rough, and the rpm's dip- sometimes this corrects itself and idling smooths out at the regular rpm, but sometimes the rpms just keep falling until the car stalls. At this point, I should mention there doesn't seem to be any loss of power like with alternator problems, and there are no problem restarting.
    Another issue that seems like it might be related is that the car seems "jumpy" from time to time, like the rpms spike and then fall off a few times in a row. It's done this when accelerating and decelerating and generally seems to happen around 15-20 kmph.
    These problems don't seem to coincide with a hot or cold engine- it's done it on both. Also no indicator lights come on.
    The car had major engine work 2 months ago, and has since been back in the shop for issues with the fuel injection.
    A friend of mine said it could be something related to fuel injection, torque converter, vacuum issues or something as simple as a dirty fuel filter.
    Any hints as to what might need to be checked?? I'm reluctant to purchase the car as I'm scared it might end up being something expensive.
    :confuse:
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I think it's more likely to be the ignition coil or spark plugs/wires.

    No check-engine light?
  • charitymcharitym Member Posts: 2
    Nope- no check engine light... no indicator lights at all.
    Thanks for your suggestions!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    That's odd. Usually a stumbling implies a misfire, then you get oxygen in the exhaust, and the O2 sensor would pick that up.
  • subienjettiesubienjettie Member Posts: 4
    I have some problems with same 'shift flare' too.

    I have 05 Outback XT auto (41,500 miles) and same problem especially cold weather, but not all the time. Mine's hit even more 3500 RPM then I have to get off from pedal and it goes away.

    Also I have 'Click' noise from 2 gear to 1 gearbox. Someone said it's release/lock for gearbox. Maybe it's true.

    One more.. when I stop on D shift, there's pretty low RPm such as less than 700RPM. Dealer said that's normal..

    Anyway I went dealer to check those problems then they changed transmission oil and something for $200, but still have same problem.
    Maybe it is the way it is...

    :confuse:
  • reginas2reginas2 Member Posts: 1
    :confuse: My husband just replaced the transmission fluid in my 07 forester. It will not shift gears. Why?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,790
    What kind of fluid did he put in it? Did he put in enough? Are you able to select gears without trouble, but the car will simply not engage?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    "My husband just replaced the transmission fluid in my 07 forester. It will not shift gears. Why? "

    It is not likely that he replaced all the fluid. If he drained and then refilled with the amount that came out, then 3.75 quarts was replaced out of the total capacity of 10 quarts. To replace all the fluid at one time requires flushing equipment that only a dealer or transmission shop has.

    To function properly, the transmission requires one of the fluids listed on Page 11-21 of the Owners Manual, which states:
    "Genuine Subaru Automatic Transmission Fluid Type-HP.
    IDEMITSU ATF HP.
    Castrol Transmax J.
    If the recommended automatic transmission
    fluid is unavailable, Dexron III
    may be temporarily used. If the Dexron
    III is used continuously there will be a
    noticeable increase in the vibration and
    noise from the automatic transmission."

    However, putting in 3.75 quarts of the wrong fluid would not prevent shifting of gears. But if for some reason the transmission is very low on fluid, that could affect shifting.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,790
    if for some reason the transmission is very low on fluid, that could affect shifting.

    That was my primary thought as well.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • wolfdougwolfdoug Member Posts: 4
    I have a '99 Forester that I purchased recently. Lately I find that the automatic transmission has been shifting harshly (mostly from second to third) . The trans pulls fine and downshifts O.K. too. The car doesn't have this problem always - or maybe it's less @ times.

    Any advice?
  • wolfdougwolfdoug Member Posts: 4
    The transmission is full, though I don't know when It was changed. Could old fliud do that? Also the owner's manual says to use Dextron III fluid but I see postings that say to use another type of fluid ( Castrol Transmax J ). Will that help?
  • lonnys1lonnys1 Member Posts: 3
    93 Subaru Impreza automatic transmission will not shift from 1st to 2nd when cold. Will shift fine when engine warms up. What could be causing this? Fluid level is fine and no leaks.
  • bigfrank3bigfrank3 Member Posts: 426
    While not Subaru-specific my experience is that when this occurs it is because of the trans filter needing replacing. As the filter gets "used" and partially restrictive the hydraulic pressure to initiate the shift is lacking. As the fluid gets hot it flows better through the filter. In my opinion changing the fluid and filter would be a good first step. The key to it most likely not being something else is the fact that it works fine when warmed up.
  • frbock1frbock1 Member Posts: 1
    Same thing happened to me at 105k. My 4 speed auto started making noise when shifting from 2nd to 3rd.
    The cure is to replace the transmission.
    2004 Forester XT.
  • wolfdougwolfdoug Member Posts: 4
    Mine's not making noise - just shifting a little hard (when cold,mostly). I will try a transmission service first. - Soon.
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    "... this occurs it is because of the trans filter needing replacing. As the filter gets "used" and partially restrictive the hydraulic pressure to initiate the shift is lacking..."

    This does not help his 2007 Forester, but Subaru eliminated the transmission filter on the 2008 models, beginning in mid-year 2007. For 2008 they blanked off the filter opening with a wide threaded plug, and for 2009 the opening was cast closed.

    It does seem amazing that the transmission could generate enough debris to clog the big filter and affect shifting. Now there is no filtering at all. Since the AT filter was "lifetime", perhaps there is really too little stuff to be worth filtering, too little stuff to ever clog the filter, and no real need for the filter.

    I guess between Jiffy Lube mistaking the AT filter for the oil filter, and the shifting problems you attribute to the AT filter, Subaru decided it only caused trouble.
  • bigfrank3bigfrank3 Member Posts: 426
    That's interesting. I wonder if they went to an internal filter as other manufacturers? I have pulled down many trans pans (not Subaru) and every one of them had lots of crap in the bottom and on the filter/screen. They weren't all high mileage either.

    The friction caused by clutches and bands causes a lot of stuff to sluff off into the fluid. The passages and orifices for the hydraulic fluid are quite small and it doesn't take much to cause issues. A single fiber between a check-ball and its seat would cause problems. I find it really hard to believe that they wouldn't use SOME filter somewhere, and Subaru should not be immune to the reality of wear and the issues it causes.
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    > ... I wonder if they went to an internal filter as other manufacturers?
    > I have pulled down many trans pans (not Subaru) and every one of them
    > had lots of crap in the bottom and on the filter/screen.

    No doubt the Subaru transmission always has had an internal screen like other cars. But the unique discontinued external pleated paper filter was much finer.
  • rxburn03rxburn03 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2001 forester and seems to be stuck in gear. The shirfter still moves like it should but when it is in neutral the trans. is still in gear. It acts like it is in 3rd gear or higher. When I shift to reverse it won't move at all. Does anyone know what the problem is?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The linkage is mechanical so something must have broken.

    I had a short shift kit installed on my 98 Forester so I was able to get a good look at it. It is the 13th item shown on this page, for reference:

    http://subaruproparts.com/index.php?cPath=1_24_37_48
  • rxburn03rxburn03 Member Posts: 5
    I had an interesting thing happen when I was going to pull the transmission. Since it was stuck in 3rd gear I drove it off the trailer in my shop. While driving it off the trailer it popped out of gear, so I put it in 1st and drove it on in. I dropped the oil hoping to find something stuck to the magnet in the drain plug. I found nothing so I put the Amzoil severe gear oil back in it and drove it up and down the road with no problems. So it either had nothing wrong or will do it again after some time. I don't know. I will be glad if I don't have to pull the transmission though.
  • wolfdougwolfdoug Member Posts: 4
    'Had a similar thing happen some years ago to a different brand and it turned out to be a bad synchronizer. 'Hope you have better luck
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Let's hope it was suspended in the oil and came out when you drained it.
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    A syncro is a large machined brass or bronze cone, so could not come out in the oil. Syncros fail by becoming worn, which puts microscopic particles or even flakes in the oil, which appear in the drain oil as a golden sheen. However, draining the oil with this material in it does not get it all out, or make the worn syncros work better.

    The OP did not report any material in his drain oil, which he put back in. That and the fact that his transmission spontaneously began to into gear again point away from syncros and more toward either external linkage or internal gear shims, bushings, etc.
  • mcm62mcm62 Member Posts: 3
    Hello. I am about to change my Impreza for a new Forester XT 2010… I am undecided between the manual and the automatic.
    I have heard the manual does not take good advantage of the torque available while the automatic does. But also heard the 4 speed automatic it’s an outdated transmission and does not offer good power ratios specially downhill.
    Any recommendations?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    For 2009+ the XT only comes with a manual. So I guess your decision is easy.

    You can get an X base or Premium with a 5 speed manual, though, but that's not the turbo.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,790
    For 2009+ the XT only comes with a manual. So I guess your decision is easy.

    Correct that to read "For 2009+ the XT only comes with an automatic." ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Ha ha, fingers faster than my brains today, good catch. ;)
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    edited March 2010
    "... for a new Forester XT 2010… I am undecided between the manual and the automatic. I have heard the manual does not take good advantage of the torque available while the automatic does. But also heard the 4 speed automatic it’s an outdated transmission and does not offer good power ratios specially downhill.
    Any recommendations?"

    For very slow speed off-road, the manual does not have a low range like some 4WDs do. The automatic works better in these situations as it avoids abuse of the clutch. Serious off-road drivers prefer the automatic.

    The automatic with only 4-speeds is poorly matched to the torque of the engine for performance driving. The automatic downshifts at the least demand for power, and would do much better if it's ratios were spread over 5 gears. However the automatic is a very good match for the higher-torque turbo engine, as it does not need to downshift except when floored.
  • pfrommerpfrommer Member Posts: 1
    I've been having the same problem with my 99 Subaru Forester transmission for the past two summers . It only happens in the summer after the car has warmed up for a while. When I take it out of Drive (parking, etc.) and then want to resume going forward I have to sit there and rev the engine until the transmission catches. This leaves a smell of burning rubber.

    At my mechanic's suggestion I had him flush it too. That didn't work and he said I'd have to get a new transmission or get rid of the car. He said a fix or a new transmission was not practical because the replacement would eventually have the same problem..

    Has anyone found a solution? I was thinking about putting some thicker fluid in the transmission. What do you think about that? I don't have much to loose. Tnx, Karl
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    "... with my 99 Subaru Forester transmission... When I take it out of Drive (parking, etc.) and then want to resume going forward I have to sit there and rev the engine until the transmission catches. This leaves a smell of burning rubber. At my mechanic's suggestion I had him flush it too. That didn't work and he said I'd have to get a new transmission or get rid of the car. He said a fix or a new transmission was not practical because the replacement would eventually have the same problem..."

    While it is true that a rebuilt or remanufactured transmission will indeed fail eventually, that failure is many years and hundreds of thousands of miles down the road. If the rest of your Forester is good and you want to keep it, then it is practical and cost effective to repair or replace the transmission. The best transmission with the longest warranty is a remanufactured one from Subaru.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Sounds like it could use a rebuild.

    It'll probably cost you what 6 car payments would cost, though, and you'll probably keep it a lot longer than 6 months!
  • quincy3quincy3 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Forester 2.5x with 151,000 miles. Yesterday my car started slipping into neutral while driving until it would not go into gear at all. It seemed to be leaking fluid as well. Today the mechanic said that the transmission pump inside the transmission went out. He recommends putting in a replacement transmissions rather than replacing the pump due to the mileage and not knowing if there was damage. Does this sound like a reasonable diagnosis and method of repair?
    Thanks for any help or suggestions.
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    edited June 2010
    Unless the transmission shop is very good, and you are willing to pay for them to find and repair all the damage that high miles and low fluid might have caused, an exchange for a remanufactured transmission is best.
  • larrylarry1larrylarry1 Member Posts: 4
    First off,I get in my friends forester and back out of driveway(facing up hill) and come to a complete stop and pull it into drive and release the brake pedal and apply no throttle and the unit starts rolling backwards.So I apply throttle and it seems to engage and slip momentarily before it grabs a hold and in a lunging fashion lurch forward(as you would expect when you engage drive @ 2800rpm's)it acts as if it could not engage or it slipped momentarily...So I start a new procedure unique to this vehicle of two footing it when I back out and am ready to go forward: back out pull down into drive left foot on brake,right on gas and gently make sure it is pulling forward before disengaging the brake...I can live with that,so can she...

    So we are heading to ride K-1 electric go carts from hell and I hop on the 210 with the unit in "D" and apply a little more throttle to merge w traffic and next thing it acts as if I went WOT spins up to 5K plus RPM and does not find a gear until I take foot off gas and re apply....

    I am very hesitant to recreat this scenario as it just plain does not seem healthy and or long term...

    Help...Any thoughts,suggestions,links,people with similar issues?

    Thanks for any replies!
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,790
    Have you checked the fluid level or condition? It sounds like the system does not have adequate hydraulic pressure, but the cause is difficult to guess without further investigation.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    "... I get in my friends forester... and it seems to engage and slip momentarily before it grabs a hold and in a lunging fashion lurch forward... I hop on the 210 with the unit in "D" and apply a little more throttle to merge w traffic and next thing it acts as if I went WOT spins up to 5K plus RPM and does not find a gear until I take foot off gas and re apply...."
    Sounds like the transmission has lost a lot of fluid. Not good to drive it like that.
  • boofheadboofhead Member Posts: 6
    Just started problem. Subaru Outback 97 140,000 miles. Gearbox seems to change up but not down. If I go up the driveway in First it pulls OK but when I select 2nd gear it seems to go right to Top gear and engine rpm drops, will not pull. If I try to go up in D it seems to go right to top gear, same result. Engine runs great, accelerates and runs smoothly but cannot pull the car when in gear; it chugs and almost dies.
    On the flat it does not accelerate well, even if I try to change manually. It seems to go right to top gear. Can hold it in first, but cannot hold it in 2nd or 3rd gear.
    I have checked the fluid but it is hard to do; it does not show a positive level, but seems to be reading only the fluid in the filler pipe that is draining down, not a solid red fluid level like engine oil. I have put 3 quarts in already and it still does not show a solid color, although there is oil showing way above the top mark, with gaps in the oil as shown on the stick. I don't want to overfill it. No signs of any fluid leak externally and not long since I had it checked, but am not too confident in the shop that checked it, they screwed up a few things during the oil change and lube and could have missed this part.
    Do I check it when the engine is running?
    The car was bought used a month or two ago.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,790
    Yes, you should check it with the engine running, after engaging reverse and drive a couple times each. It will not be a perfectly clean dip, but it should show solid below the point where top of the fluid pool rests. What is the color of the fluid? Is it a bright red or a dull red / brown color?

    I agree with you on the vote of no-confidence in the shop. If they did not get an oil change right, don't trust them with anything else! There should be a good independent shop in the area that can properly diagnose your car.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • larrylarry1larrylarry1 Member Posts: 4
    The fluid level was fine...

    So I dropped the fluid and spun a new filter on and did not make a difference.So I went for the "strainer" inside the pan and it was a mess lots of little black debris that I could only describe as looking like abrasive clutch type material...This bebris had to have benn slowing the fluid flow at the least and I would guess even enough to cavitate the pump...Put it back together and still the same performance wise.She is just gonna baby it along... Any other input would be appreciated as I appreciate your previous comments...Good stuff,great resource this site is! Lawrence
  • boofheadboofhead Member Posts: 6
    Its a good color. I did drive it, and left it sit for hours, but the stick still does not give a good indication, there is fluid up to a point above the top mark, but it is not solid. There are gaps in the fluid. There is only a small part of the lower stick that shows a good color and I think that is because the fluid drained down while I was pulling the stick out. As if there was fluid all down the tube from when I filled it.
    I still have the problem, the engine rpm will drop and no amount of throttle will bring it up. As if the engine is losing power or the gear is too high. If I manually select first gear it runs OK, accelerates and the rpm goes up to 6000 or whatever, but when I move the lever to second gear or higher the rpm drops and the car stops accelerating, as if the gear is going to 4th immediately. Once or twice it stalled out going up the drive even with first gear selected so i am not sure of the problem. I hope it is fluid loss or low level of fluid but am afraid it is worse.
    No gear noises, and engine appears to be normal.
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    "... Gearbox seems to change up but not down... I have checked the fluid but it is hard to do; it does not show a positive level, but seems to be reading only the fluid in the filler pipe that is draining down, not a solid red fluid level like engine oil. I have put 3 quarts in already and it still does not show a solid color, although there is oil showing way above the top mark, with gaps in the oil as shown on the stick..."

    Check after some driving to warm up the transmission. Park with engine running, shift through all the gears a few times, put in P and check the stick. The stick should show solid fluid.
    The transmission holds about 10 quarts, but a simple drain only removes just under 4 quarts. If your shop drained and forgot to refill the transmission, it could account for the poor shifting, and the fact that your adding 3 quarts did not show any solid fluid on the stick. The two marks on the stick are only about 1 pint apart, so if your transmission was still 1 quart low after you added fluid, solid fluid was still below the bottom of the stick.
  • boofheadboofhead Member Posts: 6
    I am thinking the problem is actually a blocked cat. The symptoms are similar to a problem I had last month with my Kia. They use the same source of gas and might have become contaminated the same way. I tried to get the cat off but could not, the nuts are way too tight for any tools I have. I also see 2 cats?
    I have towed the car to the shop and hope they can diagnose it better than I can.
  • exchngcarinfoexchngcarinfo Member Posts: 12
    A few people over the years have asked about upshift flare problems with the Forester. Mine occur on a 2001 Forester S when upshifting from 2 to 3 at hard acceleration (on ramp accel).

    Has anyone ever considered that it might be oxidized contacts on the shifter lever switch since it is an electronic not mechanical setup?
  • larrylarry1larrylarry1 Member Posts: 4
    I like the "upshift flair" term...accurately descriptive imho.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,790
    So, what exactly is upshift flare?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • saedavesaedave Member Posts: 694
    Is that reference to reving very briefly before the next gear engages? If so, the clutches won't like it!
  • exchngcarinfoexchngcarinfo Member Posts: 12
    Yes there is a spike in engine rpm when shifting from second gear to third gear with hard acceleration both when the gear selector is left in "D" or shifting the gear selector by hand from 2 to 3 during hard acceleration (on ramp getting on highway).

    In a purely mechanical transmission this usually occurs when there is a delay in the third gear band engaging after the second gear band has released.

    But the 2001 Forester Auto Tranny is computer controlled like many automatic transmissions nowadays. So it can be a computer glitch / bad software, oxidized contacts on the gear selector switch, sticky band apply solenoids, clogged / sticky accumulator valves, leaky servo pistons, etc.

    I have always heard a "clack" noise from my Forester transmissions when going from second to third gear. On my higher mileage one the engagement of third gear is rough when the tranny is cool, but smoothes out when it is warm or hot.

    Has anyone had any strange transmission behavior based on which brand of transmission fluid / oil they use ?
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