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Chevrolet Venture Heating / Cooling
demonfatcat
Member Posts: 3
in Chevrolet
I have a problem with my rear A/C in my Venture. I have owned this vehicle for over 4 years and basically we love it. I have read all of the issues on this board and I guess I consider myself lucky. I am wondering if there is a second set of connections for the A/C in the rear somewhere. I have no cool air coming from the rear vents unless It is really early in the day. I am in the Phoenix area and A/C is a necessity. Is there a second compressor or possibly a secondary place to check refrigerant pressures? I have already done the check under the hood and pressures are good! Please, any information that would help me out here would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!!!!
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Help please!
Thanks
Also, I've had so many of the problems everyone else has had. Caliper bolts falling out, over heating and having the head gaskets replaced. (water in the cylinder) I've had window switch failures, lost brakes and fluid when brake lines rusted out prematurely.
Windshield wiper "home" or down position issues. Sometimes they stop in the up position when turned off. I've replaced the front pads and rotors several times, while the rear drum brakes don't seem to wear at all. I've done all the repairs myself except the head gaskets.
The switch is most likely OK. You may want to check it before replacing this blower motor resistor but I'd bet $ 1.00 that your resistor is the problem.
Its located in the passenger side footwell behind the blower and mounted to the firewall. Remove the blower motor and you'll see it. Its got the footprint of a credit card and is less than 1" tall with a bunch of wires attached to it. If you follow the power wires from the blower it will lead you right to it. Before you remove it, make sure the connections are tight and try it one more time. If that does nothing - Take out the 2 small bolts holding it in and replace. Part is around $ 20.00. You'll need to be pretty flexible to get to it but other than that its easy to replace. Its a common problem on the Venture.
Make sure you check your fuses 1st though. I think the # 5 speed has its own fuse so if you've got a bad fuse for the other speeds it will still work in # 5. I'm still betting that the resistor is the problem though.
Also, the fail to park on the wipers is typically the wiper motor going bad. Another common Venture problem. Its not really too hard to replace either. I'd post the procedure but its got too many steps to type. Get a haynes or chilton manual, its in there with pics...the haynes manual even has a diagnostic step by step procedure to do it.
Good Luck...
John
Thanks!
1. The vacuum hose that provides vacuum to the switch has become disconnected. look behind the vent position control knob and locate the vacuum hose that is attached to it. Is it not attached? if its ok there, open the hood. the other end of the hose attaches a vacuum port on top of the engine, just above the accessory belt. You'll see it, it attaches there, jumps across and wraps around the washer reservoir before heading to the firewall. it may have fallen off or it may be broken, kinked or split. If you're still OK, go back in the car and disconnect the vac supply hose and then start the car. You should hear/feel the vacuum in the hose. No vacuum???The hose is plugged - run a new one through the firewall and attach it to the port on the engine. Our 2000 Venture had a plugged hose...
2. The switch is shot. Basically, if you've got vacuum the switch should work - very rare that the control switch is dead.
After years of complaining, my dealer finally admitted there is a problem. They've taken it in recently and after taking the centre console apart and replacing the actuator(?) control (from another van as they weren't sure this would solve the problem) the problem persists. The dealer mechanic said they got in touch with GM engineers and they said they had no idea what the problem was, but to let them know when the dealer found the cause of the problem.
I'm taking it in tomorrow again for as second try. I figure they'll be taking it apart again and look some more. They might or they might not find the problem. I have a 1,500 mile trip coming up this weekend (to Fla.) and I sure would be thrilled to get my climate control finally working normally. (So would my wife).
I also have a problem in that the unlock switch on the arm rest does not work. I have to manually lean over and unlock the door (to let someone in, for example).
Any ideas?
Or is it just that the passenger door doesn't unlock?
Pop out the switch panel from the armrest on the door with a small screwdriver. You then want to disconnect the plug from the switch. When you disconnect it, you'll check for continuity in the switch - you're basically checking to see of the switch is working. After you unplug the switch - look into it with the square hole for the connector to the left and the contacts to the right. Touch the multimeter to the contact on the bottom right and to the one in the top middle. Depress the button to "lock" the multimeter should indicate continuity as the connection is made - repeat the process with "unlock' while touching the top left with the top center. There should be continuity between these if the switch is working correctly. If either fails the test, the switch needs to be replaced. I'm guessing that you'll wind up replacing both switches since neither are working for unlock. Post back and let me know how you did...if your switches pass the test then we can go further. As always...be sure to check for loose or corroded connections and make sure the fuses are OK. Good luck - let me know how you make out...
The way to check the operation of the switch is to disconnect the plug from the switch to the blower resistor at the resistor and then use a test light or multimeter to see that the switch is sending 12V to the resistor in each of the respective fan speed positions. Personally, if I needed to replace the control head I'd get one at a junkyard, while I don't think they're trying to rip you off, $ 600.00 is pretty steep. Its an easy install for the DIYer...
I can post later to let you know which pins to test with each speed as I don't have the diagram with me. In the mean time - make sure that the plug going to the resistor is completely inserted - had trouble when I replaced mine and it turned out that the plug had not fully seated. The resistor is located on the pass side firewall right behind the blower - its got the footprint of a credit card. Will post the pin details later
Thanks
pull the connector from the blower motor resistor - as you're looking at the plug with the"slots " which clip the wire to the resistor at the top...
The connector looks something like this as you look at it:
________________________________
_____!____!___!______________!____!____!______
!__________________________________________!
!_____!____!______!_____!_______!_____!_______!
!__G__!_F_!___E__!__D__!___C___!__B_!___A__!
!_____!____!______!_____!_______!___ _!_______!!
I filled in the letters for clarity - making this diagram was a pain!!!
E is the ground - touch one probe to it from your test light or multimeter to it for each test and follow this order - each terminal corresponds to a blower setting. You should get about 12 volts for each test (ignition on - engine not running) The blower resistor then steps down the voltage to get the blower to spin at the appropriate speed.
A+ E = SPEED SETTING #2
B+E= SPEED #1
C+E= SPEED #4
D+E= SPEED # 3
F+E = SPEED # 5 (HIGH)
G IS HOT AT ALLTIMES YOU SHOULD ALWAYS GET 12 v HERE
If you don't get 12v at each when you change the switch to the corresponding setting and test then the switch is most likely the problem (assuming that the connector at the back of the switch is attached securely and that the wires are in good condition) If all get 12 volts when you switch to them then the blower resistor is most likely NG.
This gives you enough info to test it - let me know how you make out...
I've not had this problem before but here's some thoughts:
To access the "flap" that you mention - remove the rear left quarter trim panel - behind it is the blower and the mode actuator (controls the "flap"). The actuator is vacuum powered. There's really only a couple of things that could go wrong back there...
First I'd check to see that it is getting vacuum - start the engine and remove the hoses from the actuator (its the round thing about the size of a fuel filter with 2 hoses attached. With the engine running you should be getting vacuum to at least one if not both if them. I'd be willing to bet that you're not getting vacuum. If you are getting vacuum, check the actuator and the stuff its attached to for smooth movement, maybe its hung up on something or perhaps the actuator is shot.
If you're not getting vacuum, see if you can hear vacuum with the engine running - these vac hoses get brittle and break from time to time. If everything you can see looks good, after that its tough to find the problem. You'll have to do some Dick Tracy work to figure out where the hose is routed and where it gets its vacuum supply because I'm not sure. Check under the hood for a vacuum leak or a vac hose that is broken or has fallen off. The other possibility is that the vac hose is plugged - I had one of them once in the front.
Its something you can fix yourself if you're patient in trying to figure out where the leak/blockage is - Just for reference - the vac hose at the actuator goes to the overhead console control which in turn gets its supply from a vac header somewhere under the hood - I'm just not sure where.
Good luck - post back with your hopeful success....
The wiring harness goes under the carpet under the passenger side door area. This seems to be a place where salty water from winter roads collects and drains out from under the carpet. In my van, the wiring harness is not protected from the salt water, which got into the splices and rotted them out. The harness seems to lie right in this channel. I replaced all the splices and I got my power locks and windows back. I re-sealed the splices and wrapped them with cable coax di-electric to ensure get the wire harness up out of the drain channel.
This is a real beeeyotch to replace. You need to take out the blower motor first. The rear screws are almost unreachable. Best to just back them off a couple of turns and then pull the old one out. Then you can slide the new one back in.
I lived with this for about 2 years until yesterday, when the battery died because the fan was stuck in the full position.
I tried replacing the heater control like this one
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=360028990803
but it didn't do any good.
I think the water might be coming in from around the top of the windshield, as I notice there is a bit of water now in the dome light somehow, and the rubber around the window isn't as tight as it might have been one time.
Hope that helps...
Lets think about this one for a minute - if I think out loud and type maybe we can figure it out together - it might look like random thoughts and that is precisely what it is...(and yes...the resistor is a pain to replace, my back still isn't the same from last summer when I did mine)
So you replaced the resistor and now all 5 speeds work...but you can't turn the fan off? Am i reading this correctly? Or you replaced the resistor because you couldn't turn it off and now you have all 5 speeds and you're trying to figure out how to not have this happen again?
I'm not completely convinced that water that you think is coming from the windshield was the cause of the demise of the resistor - these resistors are known to fail even in the best of conditions, it wasn't a smart idea to mount it right near the fan on their part...not that its not possible that its water of course. There is one pin that's always got 12 volts on it no matter where the switch is set - it powers the blower relay. If the relay is stuck closed - you'll have nothing but high speed at all times - even with engine off if I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly...Is the carpet wet on the pass side? I know you've seen water in the dome light, you said that...
Did you confirm that the blower switch is working correctly with a multimeter? I'm wondering what is going on when you turn the switch to off - a multimeter can tell us what's going on...A couple of posts previous there's a really poor diagram that I created to tell how to test the switch & resistor. Its a small circuit so finding the faulty component should be pretty easy...
I know I'm shotgunning the problem at this point- post back and let me know where you're at right now and we'll figure it out...just typed in some random thoughts to get the thinking process started...I'm only a mechanic when there's a shade tree and some beer around but I know that you and I are smarter than our Ventures - I'll be happy to walk you through diagnosing and fixing the problem...I'll look for your reply...
1) High and off only; positions 2,3,4 were all "off" 5 was 5 ...I had that for about 2 years...,
2) More seriously, it started shorting to on/High only regardless of the position of the console switch, and regardless of ignition on or off or set to accessory.
This progression was very problematic as the only way to avoid killing the battery was to disconnect it! Not ideal as it's been -20C (-28F) the last couple of days.
I confirmed the blower switch was working by testing continuity for all 5 positions.They were all good. I also have two spare ones here if anyone wants one cheap (one for a 99 the other for a 2000...)
The factory resistor showed signs of either burn off or corrosion. The green coating had flecked off in a strange sort of way; I think it was water damage.
http://fhlsim.com/images/7692.JPG
http://fhlsim.com/images/7693.JPG
So you're fixed then...excellent...
These are a really common failure...mine looked scorched when I replaced it...looked a lot like yours - its the peril of mounting the part so closed to the blower where all sorts of dust & what have you is kicking around (moisture, heat, etc)
Looking at the wiring diagram and your pictures tells me a couple of things
-there is 12v power to the blower resistor at all times, ignition on or off
-the #5 position is wired directly to the blower relay, so when you choose # 5, its basically a straight shot of juice right to the blower motor ... if that relay fails closed ( like yours) that would explain only full blast, (the relay is on the resistor part) No matter what you set the switch at, if the relay fails closed, you're getting full blast all the time...
Mine looked very much like yours, although yours does look a little worse...I don't think its a water issue although you still may want to hunt down the source of the leak...
Post any time...I'm always cruising around here & willing to help :shades:
thanks Jim
Best,
John :shades:
Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Preventitive maintenance, like frequently blowing out your inside air filters, could have prevented this. This is commonly overlooked. When I purchased my van at 70,000 miles and checked those filters, they were plugged and had 6" of pine needles stacked on top of them.
If someone could point me in the right direction to find replacement knobs, we have to drive this van til the wheels fall off. And wifey is getting a bit testy about having to pull one knob off and put it on the other post just to change the airflow.
Junkyard might also be a good place if you've got one local. Once again, it might not have to be from a Venture, I'm sure the Impala or Century or Alero or something used the same knobs.
Was really wanting click click, punch in card number, and ~poof~ on my doorstep in a week or so.
Was ALSO hoping that since so many dang vehicles probably use this knob, I'd find a part number and 3rd-party supplier.
Just one other note. I did inspect the blower housing. The metal between the blower cage and the motor had some light rust and corrosion on it. I am fairly certain that the cause of all this is the too lightly protected resistor coming in contact with moisture for a period of time. Hopefully, this new card has no problems as it is much more substantially protected. Thanks again, John.
I'm so glad I could help - you're very welcome!
I haven't had any problems since and you're right, the new one did look much better designed than the one it replaced. Here's to hoping that neither one of us have to contort ourselves again to reach and replace that thing...
All the best,
John :shades:
There's a low pressure switch on the system that monitors the pressure of your refrigerant - when it indicates that the refrigerant is below a certain pressure, it disables the compressor. I'd bet that you might have a refrigerant leak and your system needs to be checked and recharged. There is also a low temperature shutoff programmed in the system which keeps it from turning on when the outside temp is below 32F but since you started having trouble last summer I'm thinking that's not why its not turning on.
If you're not hearing the "clink" of the compressor clutch, chances are its not getting any power. A mechanic can hook up a scanner and see if the computer is commanding the compressor to turn on or if its inhibiting it for some reason. He'll also check the system pressure to see if that's the reason.
Alternately - you could check in the compressor area to so if by chance that the electrical connection has come loose or off - its not likely but it does happen. But I'm guessing that your system is low on refrigerant due to a leak.
Good Luck,
John :shades:
Well, I added 25 Oz of R134A and the A/C started working. I could hear the compressor clutch engage and the added load on the engine. However, two vents, one on either side of the driver, still blow warm air. This happens despite the fact all other vents are blowing cold air. Any ideas?
I'm no AC expert by any stretch...I even checked and couldn't find a technical service bulletin from GM in the factory service manual about that problem.
I'm pretty sure that the center vents are all fed by one duct so all 3 of them should be either warm or cold...
Check your ducts & make sure they're where they belong, maybe you knocked one loose/off when you were replacing the blower resistor. Also, there's a vacuum line that runs right near the blower and out through the firewall to under the hood - trace it back to the controls and make sure its not pinched or damaged, then start the car and make sure you're getting good vacuum through it - I had to replace mine because it got clogged - I'm pretty sure the actuator door is vacuum operated on the Venture.
Also, check the temps of the different ducts with a thermometer to make sure your hand isn't playing tricks on you - that's why I'm thinking that a duct fell off under the dash as your hand will perceive a cooler temperature when there is more air moving over it. Also, check the temp in your defroster duct.
I wish I could be more help - I really don't know too much about AC systems...at this point I think I've shared most of what I know with you...
Best of luck,
John :shades:
Steve, visiting host
Anyway, that A/C is darn near cold enough now to make ice cubes. When I had last added refrigerant myself, my cheapo gauge said the pressure was a little high. Then when the A/C seemed to quit working the next day, the gauge said the pressure was too low. Of course I thought I had a leak in the system then.
Well, after having the shop add another 2 lbs of refrigerant and everything still working great as of today, I now feel it was simply a matter of a cheap gauge AND the A/C system needing to be evacuated and then recharged. If you are getting the same hot/cold symptoms I was, I'd bet that you need the same thing - evacuation and recharge. It is not the cheapest thing, but the A/C is working great now.
Does anybody know of a cost effective way a person can evacuate their A/C system and then recharging it yourself?
After a while the AC seemed to get weak. One mechani re-charged it. Yet its never really worked anywhere near as well as it did before. Its set on taking outside air and cooling it. Would recirculating the air make more sense?
Its not that cool air is not coming out of the vents. It is. But its cool air rather than cold air. And it seems to be less strong a breeze even if I have the fan set at 5, its highest position.
What items should I check to see why I'm getting only cool rather than cold air being blown out of the vents.
How did you solve it. i blew backwards with a tight blower nozzle connection into the Ac drain (short little tube that drained behind the engine just below the alternator. no water came out and the van was sitting on a level garage floor.
Did anyone solve the problem without taking the entire a/c plenum apart and clean out muck ?