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How did you solve it. i blew backwards with a tight blower nozzle connection into the Ac drain (short little tube that draind behind the engine just below the alternator. no water came out and the van was sitting on a level garage floor.
Did anyone solve the problem without taking the entire a/c plenum apart and clean out muck ?
Thanks.. :confuse:
I tried to get some help from GM to no avail.
I need to somehow get the tube to extend back through the firewall so that the water drips into the engine compartment and not into the cabin
Anyone got any ideas how to do this?
On the bootom of this box is a molded in plastic rigid tube that extends through the sheet metal body and the rigid tube runs into the engine area & it's suppose to drain out any water into the engine compartment kind of behind the alternator.
i have a junk yard by me and if the engine is out. then the tube is very visible,,it's not flexible and almost impossible to damage or misroute of have it fall of or something ( unles it's a nasty smash up. likley total the VAN).
I basically learned that it's likley that some of the prtoective non absorbant foam stuff might have moved /shifted and may be clogging the outlet tibe hole so that the water doesn't drain out.
If you know how to add pictures to this site PLS let me know how to do it, i took a few with cell phone that shows a cut away.from a junk yard vechicle.
I am looking at likley adding a hole on the drivers side of the box not to bad to get at that side, and then add a barbed fitting that i will silicone to the box and attach a hose that i will run down thru th body via a drill bit about3/8 th inch dia in the firewall( sheet metal in front of your feet) so the water can drain. I will also add a couple of holes below the carpeting to drain at least some of the water if it gets in there
to get at the condensor box looks like taking the entire dash out. I got to the heater core and can remove it if needed, if i could acess the A/c condensor then i would HOWEVER it looks like to get to it means removing the entire dash. It looks like a job in itself ( failry major thing to do)
Rad leaks to near the drain plug area. I am hoping that this is a drain plug o-ring and not the rad end seal. I do not have towing package, so this is just a regular van.
I also need to replace thermostat. Do I need any special tools for that or after removal of throttle body assembly and heat shield I can get to the bottom bolt? This is insane design to place thermostat like this.
The van is not worth as much as they wanted to charge me for both of these jobs.
After 310,000 miles i have had no problems with this thing but it is pretty cold this winter! I am having antifreeze professionally flushed this week. I hope that helps too.
Thanks in advance!
I cleaned mine out and put them back and it made a huge difference.
If you don't know, they are behind a pop-out panel in the back of the glovebox.
There are two, side by side with the first one sliding to the left (out of sight) to make room for the second.
My local AutoZone wanted $42 for replacements. I chose to clean and not buy new."
The nice thing about the Venture is that there is a filter. If you take out the filter behind the glove compartment, you might notice a lot of debris above it. Make sure to vacuum/clean all this crud out.
If you go online to Rockauto.com, they had a clearance sale on Venture replacement air filters the other day.
I have put a gallon of antifreeze in the reservoir tank over the last 2 weeks. It seemed to help give me a little heat when I filled it to the cool level line, but not now. There are no visible signs of a leak and I don't see any antifreeze on the oil dipstick. The car is not overheating, but the temperature gauge is dancing around a little bit. Just out of curiosity, where is the coolant level sensor? Because I don't know if it's just another sensor in a long line of bad ones that just stays on now forever. Or the coolant really is low. I keep adding it to the reservoir tank so it's going somewhere.
Thanks for any help.
My heater stopped working about 1 month ago at a stand still, but at high speed it begins to kick out heat. The temp gauge goes down at higher speeds, but at lower speed temp rises. could this be related to the problem?
Replaced the thermostat and the water pump. Help please! Could it be anything else except a busted head gasket?
If you didn't that;s a simple fix. there is an air bleed screw and maybe two of them? Located toward the top of intake area .. As you turn the small hex of the bleed screw open (counter clock wise) air will come out and when it's solid collant shut it off... I did this years ago there may be 2 burp valves ? look in owners manuals it may be in there ? otherwise go to service manual or go to Library for ALLDATA ask refercne librarian if you never used it.
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Are you USING any collant ?,,,gotta pay attention to this one. and keep an eye on it overflow bottle if hook up propelry is a good way maybe once check rad to see if it's full.
are you loosing collant externally ? leaks on floor or possibly leaks and burns off with engine heat/Exhaust you would smeel it very likely if this was the case
Caps are pretty much the same as a lot of cars swap caps if they are the same don't force it if it don't fit.
as you know everytime you open up rad cap you will loose a little collant(( normal.)
Do you have access to a rad pressure tester ? if so on a cool engine hook it up to rad and run engine like normal, if pressure builds over 20 psi and keep building you likly have a head gasket gone.
oTHERWISE IF YOU REPALCE PLUGS AND SEE GREENISH TINT ON ONE IT COULD BE COLLANT GOING INTO CYLINDER.
Collant could get in the oiland cause it to turn milky
collant can also go into the exaust and usually it will make smoke or sweet smell depends on how bad it's leaking..
Other wise a ch
There should be no sludge (there was no sludge back when I was changing the rad, oil is clean, coolant level does not go down.
I cleaned all the fun relays and connectors, no difference.
I tried to run engine with sensor unplugged, temp gauge showed no temp reading at that time. When plugged back, temp was shown on the gauge.
Can anyone tell me if the temp sensor (located beside the thermostat) is an on/off sensor or it actually gives the range signal to power temp gauge on the dashboard? If range, what is the range suppose to be? There is no air in the system.
I changed the fan switching sensor (located near the thermostat). This is an on/off sensor switch.
Fans come on at the same temperature as with the old sensor – about 2 o’clock on the dial. What else can cause this high switching?
anybody? thanks in advance.
Ricky
You can hear that it is switching from cold to hot, and when you put your hand on the vent you can barely feel the hot air coming out. I then turn the temp to cold and you can hear it switch and it flows out pretty good...(almost too good).
Is this what it is supposed to look like or did I break something off of it when initially trying to unloosen it? If it's normal how does it stay in?
I'm new here.
I just bought a 2003 Chev Venture from an Autobody shop. They had fixed all the problems and got it safetied. I have the paperwork and everything. One thing I noticed when I'm driving the van...
When I'm driving long periods, the heat is working, very slowly...... but when I'm driving short periods. I get no heat, even when I stop at the lights, the heat cools off and it feels like it's blowing A/C. Mind you, I live in Winnipeg and it'll get dang cold in the middle of winter. Considering it's almost Nov and it's getting colder. I was wondering if this is an easy fix that my hubby can do? Or is this a normal thing??
Please help...
,,check or replace rad cap 14 or 15 lbs, or swap with another car
You must have 50/50 fluid ,,protected to like 40 below F.,,,i am from MN and it get cold here as well.
there is also a burp screw on top of the manifold to let air out. open it and when solid fluid comes out close it. look at owners manual i believe it tells you about it
other than that the thermostat is not that hard to replace in case it's stuck open when done need to burp it.
Can you feel the hoses going into the heater core ,,,is one very hot like you can touch it for a second and you must let go and the other cool ?
I can't recall what changes it from hot to cool,,is it cable operated ,,,gotta SEE FEEL , TAKE APART stuff underneath until you get to the air blend door to see if it's moving fully from hot to cold all the way.
I personally went a junk yard and took one apart.1st. then took mine apart for water leaking into operator AREA from air conditioning,, i could get all they to the heater core it was not hard but a bunch of stuff needed to come out and GO BACK IN The SAME WAY
put a temp gauge in the a/c vent outlet and have it blow out at operator like you would on A/C it should at least 140-150 degree F it is just sitting there the stat could be good
do the cooling fans run when you turn on A/c ?
are the cooling fans on all the time, i assume you don't have the rear coolant heater option
Is there a code on for check engine light
Collant leve in rad has to be up and the overflow tank needs to be at proper level KEEP an eye on the leve every time you open the hood of lack hot air.
I would syas you need to bleed the one or two screws on top of the engine ( to purge the air and get a solid stream of collant ,,and it should be a 50/50 mixture, once you do that then make sure the system is full again.
I would look in my owners manual but i's not handy and or look under the hood to see if there are two blled screws or just one, I think tow and they look alike. as i recall you loosen them with engine running and collant and air come out (it's easier if you do not remove them completley) that should help you out.
I didcovered the problem when i changed my stat.
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also feel the hoses especailly to and from the heater core if one is hot and the other cool it could be a heater core issue,, I assume you have a working cable ( i think that adjusts a door form hot to cold) this is likley not the answer i you had temp heat for 2 days..unless you moved the air blend door in conjusction as to wehn you had heat.
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Heat in my vneture gets very hot needs to be turned downafter you get going, and seems very hot in summer and my CD's a very hot to the tocuh. SUPER HOT almost to the point you don't want to tocuch them. Not sure if that is heat related however.
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lots of luck
If you can't find bleeder screws ask a mechanic type person or if needed write back, sorry for the delay,
Now I am looking at replacing the either the T-stat or possibly the heater core as I have air flow but insufficient heat. However I cannot find a schematic to show me where these items are located. any other advice or direction is much appreciated.
FYI I tore my dash apart ( due to a/c water leaking inside cab) and heater core is is a job to get to ,,nothing difficult just time i did not remove it however, not sure how easy it will be to remove & RE-INSTALL HEATER HOSES TO THE HEATER CORE in the engine comprtment side. GOOD LUCK
I would replace the blower motor resistor first if for no other reason than to quickly fix the problem and move on the next issue with your van. It sounds as if you can get around the wiring harness for now.
I had the same issue with the fan only working on certain speeds. First, 1 quit working, then 2. Before I could figure what was going on, 3 had quit working.
The most difficult part of replacing the resistor is accessing some of the screws. The resistor is located inside the blower motor housing under that dash on the passenger side. The price of a new resistor is between $35 and $40. The new resistor is much better protected than the old one.
So I had a similar problem not too long ago and it turned out to be the blower motor resistor, I ended up testing and replacing it myself, but it took appx 4 to 6 hrs of work due to the location of it, it is a pain to get to, but can be done. (flexibility is very helpful lol) I replaced the one on my mothers van about 2 yrs ago when i was 16. The best instructions i found came out of a Haynes vehicle repair manual where it was step by step instruction on how to test and replace if needed the resistor.
It is located under the passenger side glove box and must be accessed through the carpeted insulation panel which must be removed there. From there the blower motor must be removed with screws in hard to reach areas (a ratchet set with extensions is extremely helpful) and then the resistor can be removed. Once it is removed, there is a diagram for testing it with a multimeter to see if it is non functioning.
It is also possible, but not as likely as the resistor with this type of van, that there is a leak in the vacuum system which would require more detective work in seeing if there is a vacuum pull on the system. One easy and not always accurate way to test that is to turn on the car cycle the switch for the blower from off to on to off then turn the car off and cycle it again. On the cycle when the car is off if you hear a creaking/odd noise it probably still has vacuum.
~Ricky
begin---------------------------------------------------------------------------- -----------
OK here goes -
pull the connector from the blower motor resistor - as you're looking at the plug with the"slots " which clip the wire to the resistor at the top...
The connector looks something like this as you look at it:
________________________________
_____!____!___!______________!____!____!______
!__________________________________________!
!_____!____!______!_____!_______!_____!_______!
!__G__!_F_!___E__!__D__!___C___!__B_!___A__!
!_____!____!______!_____!_______!___ _!_______!!
I filled in the letters for clarity - making this diagram was a pain!!!
E is the ground - touch one probe to it from your test light or multimeter to it for each test and follow this order - each terminal corresponds to a blower setting. You should get about 12 volts for each test (ignition on - engine not running) The blower resistor then steps down the voltage to get the blower to spin at the appropriate speed.
A+ E = SPEED SETTING #2
B+E= SPEED #1
C+E= SPEED #4
D+E= SPEED # 3
F+E = SPEED # 5 (HIGH)
G IS HOT AT ALLTIMES YOU SHOULD ALWAYS GET 12 v HERE
If you don't get 12v at each when you change the switch to the corresponding setting and test then the switch is most likely the problem (assuming that the connector at the back of the switch is attached securely and that the wires are in good condition) If all get 12 volts when you switch to them then the blower resistor is most likely NG.
This gives you enough info to test it - let me know how you make out..
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if you have anymore question or want more info just reply and ill do my best
Ricky