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Buick Park Avenue Electrical / Lighting Problems



  • mikuhmikuh Posts: 3
    Since I received no response to my post, I decided to go it alone. I was able to purchase a new turn signal switch thru ebay that solved all my electrical problems. The plastic insulator that sits on top of the steering wheel nut and insulates the large horn contact spring, attached to the steering wheel was broken in several places due to age and some heavy hands of a previous mechanic. I was able to reconnect all the broken pieces and build up the missing pieces with several applications of 10 minute epoxy, so that the insulator was functional and did not allow the spring to short out.

    The other problem was the shift indicator gage. some previous heavy handed mechanic had dropped the steering without disconnecting the shift indicator clip, thus shearing off the actuator arm and popping off the indicator needle. This gage is rotary actuated and all others that I could find in junk yards were linear actuated. The only thing I could do was to try and epoxy indicator needle that was loose in the case and fabricate another arm and epoxy it to the little plastic stub that was still on the back of the gage. To make a long story short, after many trys, I was successful and the gage now works as well the original. If anyone is interested in how I made this repair, I have photos and would be happy to walk you thru the process. Please contact me off line at

    This was a real learning process and I am happy to finally complete it. :)
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,605
    I'm glad to hear you were successful. It sounds like you are as adept at using epoxy as I am to fix some things. Also PL1 polyurethane caulk/adhesive is really good for putting some things in their place and it has a little give to it.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    On second thought, it could just be a loose battery connection. I should have always started with the simple stuff first. Sorry for not suggesting this on the first pass. Any change?
  • I just bought a 1994 Park Avenue (not Ultra) from an older lady. It only has 91000 miles but had set up for a while before I bought it (maybe a year) and the next day i noticed that it was hesitating when I would accelerate. Anyway it got worse and then wouldnt stay cranked. It would start but immediately cut off. I replaced all of the coil packs and the plate under them (i think it was called the ignition module) along with the fuel filter. Now it runs but is still cutting out at low rpms. Ive checked the air filter and am in the process of changing the spark plugs. I have all 3 in the front and 1 in the back. I cant get to the other two. I've heard something about an engine mount that would allow the engine to tilt but i have no idea where it is... Does anyone know anything about accessing the back spark plugs and so far with the 4 new plugs in its still skipping and if changing the plugs doesn't work, what next?? Any suggestions would really help.....Thanks
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,605
    If the wires are the original Packard wires they must be replaced along with plugs. Use AC for the plugs and a good OEM quality wire; if you don't want ACDelco wires use Belden from NAPA which is a commonly recommended good wire.

    There are many things that could cause your hesitation. The fuel pressure and flow needs to be checked.
    The IAC needs to be removed and cleaned without getting cleaner up into the operating part.
    The MAF sensor is a likely problem area. There is a liquid cleaner to spray on the sensitive wires to clean. You can try disconnecting the MAF and starting the car and see if it runs better (not perfect) without it. That sometimes identifies a problem MAF.

    You should check all of the vacuum lines for cracks and rotted sections that might be leaking air. You can try spraying carburetor cleaner around the edges of the upper intake manifold and all the vacuum lines which the car is running and listen for a change in the idle indicating carb cleaner is getting in and being burned.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • Thanks for the advice. I did find a small 5/36 vaccum line that was pretty much non existant so i just replaced it. I got 4 of the 6 spark plugs in i couldn't get to the other 2, do you know how i can reach them... also the 4 spark plugs that i took out were in extremely bad shape the porcelain insulator part was black and crusty... The MAF that you were talking about disconnecting, im not sure where it is or what it looks like and i cant find a diagram anywhere.. this is the very first time that ive even worked on a car so i really appreciate your advice.
  • I am currently looking for a T connector and four flat wire trailer wiring connector. The 2005 was the last year for the Park Ave and I do not want to splice into the factory harness. I have hunted the web with no success and any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,605
    I stand on something to give me increased height to reach in. I put a cover over the fender and just reach back behind. I have to do it from both sides of the car to get all the back ones.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • Good afternoon. I have a 1999 Buick PA with about 135,000 miles on it. For some time now my "Service Engine Soon" light has been on. My car, without much notice, will shut off whenever I stop at red lights, stop signs or slow down to turn corners. I took it to AZ and they put a little monitor beneath my dash board. It read "MAS" (Massive Airflow Sensor I believe). I bought the sensor, had it installed and the "Service ..." light went off - but only for about 1 week. Last Sunday, the second week since the light has been off, while driving to a store about 1.5 miles away all was fine. When I left the store, however, a block away my car seemed like it was gasping for air (more like choaking) and cut off. After four attempts to restart it (when I turned the key in the ignition, I would hear it come on but it would not stay on), I finally got it going. It has not gone off since that time, but now I need inspection and I know it won't pass because of that darn light. Also, I've had the car for about four years and it has had a tune-up maybe once during that time. Needless to say, I want it fixed for safety reasons, too! Thanks!
  • bill235bill235 Posts: 2
    the coach lights on my 1988 buick park ave. are not working. can't figure out how to get to the bulbs? The lights are located between the front and back doors on the post. anyone?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,605
    The car needs to diagnosed by a knowledgeable mechanic. The number for the error code is important but what causes it still requires diagnosis. The part mentioned as the sensor involved in the error code may not be at fault; it may be reporting a symptom caused by something else.

    You might have a crankshaft position sensor going out. These cause random quick stalls usually with quick restarts.

    You might have a fuel pump that is wearing out. That causes low pressure at times. Often symptoms are worse when temps are hot or when pump has been running for a long time perhaps with low fuel level in the tank so there's less splash cooling. Your pump _might_ be replaceable through an access hole in the trunk. I do not know how that year Park Avenue is built.

    Diagnosis based on code readers is dangerous because it may become expensive--like guessing at parts to fix.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • myparkavemyparkave Posts: 7
    On my 93 pa my amp gauge reads out around 13 - 15 hanging right around the red line of the gauge. I have checked the output and am getting 12.4 volts from the charging system and also have a new battery. I'm assuming that the gauge is a lil bit off ( faulty ). Any ideas on this as well. Thanks for you help in advance.
  • I recently had a problem with my driver's side power seat. The console separated from the seat and fell underneath the chair. When this happened, something must have gotten shorted or something. My sunroof, radio, power locks and trunk release do not work. I checked the fuse box under the hood and under the driver's side dash-they all LOOKED okay. My questions are these: has anyone ever heard of this problem? Is there another fuse panel? If so, is it under the rear seat? If so, how do I remove the rear seat? Can somebody please help me?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,605
    Check your owners manual for locations of the fuse boxes. You don't say what year car you have. If your battery is under the back seat, you have fuse boxes back there and probably under the hood in the left front. Since you have fuses under the driver's side dash I suspect your car is the earlier type and you have fuses in the firewall "Relay Center" under a cover held on with a few plastic taps. They are large fuses. I'm guessing that the earlier Parks had a fuse and relay board on the right side under the dash on the A-pillar area. Take off a plastic cover under the dash above the passenger's legs. On top of the cover is a schematic of which fuses and relays do what. Many may be empty, depending on the options.

    If you read the owner manual, it may give short codes for which fuse does what. You might pick up on a fuse that includes items that aren't working. More than one fuse can be involved with operating a specific part of the car.

    Be aware some cars use networks which talk to other controls. So a controller in a driver's door tells other doors what to do. I don't know your year and I don't know Park Avenues as well as LeSabres. You might have a damaged cable under the driver's seat that's involved in the networking from door to door.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • ggeeooggeeoo Posts: 94
    Look under the rear seat there is a fuse box there. Also did you glue the component BACK IN.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,605
    >look under the rear seat...

    I already said that.
    If your battery is under the back seat, you have fuse boxes back there

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • i have an '02 PA with 75K (basic) . the outside and temp. setting in the small (window" keeps going dark then coming back then fading out completly, what kind of repair does this involve???
  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    Do you know how to drive a soldering iron? :)

    It's a pretty common problem unfortunately with the BPAs. You need to fix the climate control display.

    You can either replace the climate controller with one from the dealer (I think they charge between $100-175 for the part - but that's just a wild guess), replace it yourself with one from eBay that someone has rebuilt ($50-100), send your's to someone to have it fixed ($50-60, there is a guy on ebay that does this, goes by the name: digital_dash_solutions and probably more like him. his is the first name I saw when I did a search),


    if you're a DIY'r, just pull out that controller display, disassemble it, and solder the loose resister's on the board inside it. It takes maybe 10-15 minutes to remove it from your car, 5 mins to disassemble it, 10-15 minutes to resolder the joints, then put it back together. Takes maybe an hour, and .25 worth of solder to fix it yourself. Let me know if you want more detail provided. I've got to do that on my wife's car today, and I could take some pics.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,605
    I'd be interested in seeing the pictures. It seems I have seen a how to do it on the net somewhere, and it's something someone can do at home fairly safely and easily.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

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