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Chevrolet TrailBlazer Engine and Performance Problems

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Comments

  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    If it has an "internal fault" then it more or less means that a reset or reprogram won't help I would think. Do you know what the code or codes they read were?
  • I am interested if you found a solution to your problem. Your problem is IDENTICAL to mine! I am at my wits end trying to find someone to help me identify the problem. Replaced the alternator and battery. Ever since then, anytime I turn on the a/c or heater and I am not driving, it kills the engine. Any info you have would be great!!
  • jagtx,

    I had a bad clutch fan and they replaced a leaking waterpump while down there. It fixed the problem.
    Hope this helps.

    willsey03
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    Could be the IAC (idle air control). It should open and close as needed based on load at idle.
  • i have a 2005 trailblazer ls. it has the i6 4.2l. i have about 72k miles on it. i am starting to get what sounds like a top end knock. it also feels like/sounds like its low on oil. it is full of oil. i do all my own maintenace but i have no idea where to start looking. anyone have a suggestion?
  • My 03 Trailblazer started missing so bad that when I had the cruise control on and was going up a hill, it knocked the cruise control off and that no longer works. I have replaced my left rear turn signal numerous times and it still won't work..I keep getting water in the light..any suggestions?? :lemon:
  • I have a 2003 Trailblazer, EXT with 92,000 miles on it. The engine started missing..missing so bad it would knock out the cruise control. The plugs were changed and it stopped for a couple of weeks and has now started missing again. Any other similar problems/suggestions? Thanks! :lemon:
  • kasihiakasihia Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my 2006 Chevrolet Trailblazer. The loss of engine power light kept coming on and eventually got bad enough that it stalled out and even almost got me into a few accidents but cutting power without much warning. After $800 in parts (thankfully my husband could do all of the labor), we found a fix for the problem. Try your map sensor and mass airflow sensor. We tried the alternator, serpentine belt, battery, cleaning the throttle body, a new accelerator pedal, etc. etc.
  • glocksglocks Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Chevy Trailblazer that, I guess, has a blown engine. THe dealership told me it was a lack of maintenance, even though I get my oil changed on a regular basis. they said a fire burned a hole in the piston in cylinder #4. Anyone ever have this kind of experience with a 5.3l, V8 Aluminum Cast engine block?
  • hotcoalhotcoal Posts: 1
    edited April 2012
    Where do I start. I purchased my 2004 Trailblazer in 2008 as a Certified Pre Owned GM vehicle. When I got my first oil change after purchasing the vehicle, the mechanic showed me that the dipstick for the transmission was completely gone, it has rusted off. I returned the vehicle to the dealership showed them the dipstick and asked them how something as simple as this was not discovered during the supposed GM Certification process. I asked to be able to trade the vehicle for another one, demanded that I didn't want it and I was only offered trade in value which was substantially less than I paid for it. If only I knew what I know now I would have gladly taken the trade in value. Last year (my final year of payments) I was having an error code for engine misfire. After paying for diagnostics I was informed I had a bad cylinder (not holding compression) and had two choices, 1. Repair the valves and cylinders on existing engine $3,500 or 2. Put in a another used engine with 30,000 less miles than mine that came with a parts and labor warranty $1,800.00. I opted for option two. Six months later, I have misfires in two cylinders that are random. The mechanic says this is likely the problem I had with my previous engine just not as far along yet, good thing I got the warranty. Today the transmission went out, so I have an engine that needs to be repaired and I need a new transmission. On top of that the air conditioner will not blow out the front vents, says I need a new actuator. The instrument cluster hasn't worked for two years. The headlights, brake lights, tail lights etc. need replacing every few months if not weeks. CD player quit working the first few months I had it. Check engine light never goes off. I drive it back and forth to work (50 miles roundtrip) everyday and that's it. I finally paid it off in February and now I need to spend thousands more on repairs. Many of these problems I have had are problems that many Trailblazer / Envoy owners have. GM does not issue recalls or will not correct these issues. GM will not stand behind their product I will never buy another GM vehicle. Sorry for the length, my rant is over.
  • jay1310jay1310 Posts: 1
    2003 Chevy Trailblazer, 6 cylinder repair went from bad to worse:
    I had to change out what apparently was a bad battery. Upon doing so, my car's system engine lights and Reduced Engine Power lights came on. I had it tested, and
    was recommended to change the faulty Throttle Body. I bought a used one, put it on and now its still behaving the same, only now also I cannot shift out of park. Are these two related? I think I have a bad used throttle body, but now I can't even drive at 14 miles an hour to the shop. recommendations? Car just hit 112,000 and I did try to reset the computer several times.
  • katnap68katnap68 Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Chevy Trailblazer that I had bought brand new, and now 7 years later with 190+ highway miles, am looking at replacing the engine, almost have all parts replaced why not the engine right? supposedly cylinder 6 had no compression, got a second opinion, and was told pretty much the same thing, took it to dealer thinking they could just replace the cylinder only to be told that it can not be fixed (mind you paid off, no warranty) valves are clogged with oil residue, all sorts of other issues inside there on top of that, so was told best bet to replace engine, contacted GM to report issue as I can not phatom this from a Chevy, I have had Chevys in the past well over the 250+ mile mark, and never had to replace the engine, very disappointing and I am sad, upset and all the emotions that could go along with this type of issue.
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    I assume you mean 190K miles. With that many miles I'm not surprised GM didn't respond to your satisfaction. Anyway, I don't know why anyone would want to with that many miles, but your best bet is probably to get a good used engine and have it put in.
    Did anyone actually find out what was wrong with #6 cylinder? Bad valve? Hole in the top of the piston? Cracked block? Anything?
  • tblazingtblazing Posts: 1
    Did the map sensor and mass airflow sensor fix the problem or is it still occuring?
    When we use the electric windows we get a reduction in engine power.
    Thanks Rich
  • btr717btr717 Posts: 1
    I have had the same clicking noise (I do believe) for years. It is just the fan clutch trying to engage/disengage, so my mechanic says. It has not affected my engine power, nor has given me any trouble except the aggravating click.
  • I have a 2003 Chevy TB with 100,000 miles. Over the last couple of days my car will randomly die while I am driving. There is no check engine light or any clue as to what could be causing this. I have only owned the car for 3 yrs. and already replaced spark plugs, alternator, cat converter, starter, driver's side window (that was a weird one), and put a new (used) engine, and most recently fuel filter (hoping that would solve the problem)!! I have no code to check and nobody really knows what it could be. Any ideas??
  • try coil pack,i've had this same problem with 3 different Chevy's i've owned
  • Worst case id say fuel pump. I bought a 2006 that had a cracked flot in the fuel pump so the resevoir was emptying out at stops and right hand turns couldnt figure it out till it was low on fuel and kept doing it. Fixed my truck.
  • jaysgaljaysgal Posts: 1
    My 06 Trailblazer is making a knocking noise. its faint at first and when you accelerate it gets louder. I have taken care of my car it has 108,000 miles (mostly highway). Im a wreak over this. A yr ago i had the fuel pump replaced and they did clean out the entire injector system. 3 weeks ago I replaced the serpitine belt. the is no lose of power. and besides that the car runs fine. Can anyone here help me out. when we listen to it, we are unable to locate what part of the engine its coming from.
  • hsbsmshsbsms Posts: 1
    Just went thru the same thing. It turned out to be a broken exhaust valve spring. What did you end up doing?
  • Car starts and runs fine, but going down the road the door/key chime will ring several times then stop. Then the warning lights will all light up then go off then the gauge cluster ( speedo,gas gauge,temp and tach ) shut down . Then all is fine for a few minutes or miles and then cycle will start again ! It is crazy. Anybody else encounter anything like this or know of a fix . Thanks
  • lisa141lisa141 Posts: 1
    Did you ever find out what was making the knocking noise?
    I have a 2006 Chevy Trailblazer with the same knocking noise and the mechanic just told me he thought it was a rod in the engine and I'd need a whole new motor.
    Please let me know. Thanks.
    Lisa
  • Two months ago. My keyless remote stopped working the locks. And at the same time both front panels to open the windows and lock the doors stopped working. The back doors you can still open the windows. Ive checked fuses and relays. All good. Any ideas?!?!?
  • i have a 2002 TB. recently i started to hear a tapping / pinging noise as well. The noise was only when the car was in drive. As I drove the noise got louder / faster. The noise did not happen when the car was in reverse nor when at idle.

    People told me it probably the fan clutch (which is a common failure of this vehicle.) Mine was ok.

    Other people told me it might be the CV joints. But CV Joints really only make clicking noises when you turn because it stretches the joints withing the boots (also bad joints usually have broken boots and grease will be seen EVERYWHERE).

    So I assumed it was either loose bolts or bad wheel hubs. So I took the driver side wheel off. Turned the wheel hub slowly and heard the noise. I tracked the noise to my front Differential (were the driver's side cv joint connects). Upon further review my front differential had a huge crack and all the liquid had poured out. It caused the gears to dry out and rust and break...causing the clicking.

    Hopefully your noise is just bolts, or wheel hubs, or the cv joints. The front differential is not something that can be done at home. Used one I got is $300 and about $300 for install.

    Good luck. Hope this helps you.
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