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[Manual transmission...vehicle excellent other than above problem.]
While I was getting my car serviced last week, I overheard another customer and the service representative talking about Legacy (and Outback since they're essentially the same chassis) having complimentary extended maintenance on the wheel bearings because of a TSB or something along these lines that surfaced. So, the customer was happy because he got it replaced free of charge.
As for a clunking sound, I don't have a lot of experience with AWD vehicles as this is my first, but I know that when a family member's previous car made a high pitched squeal when the power steering fluid went low. I suppose as the car warmed up and the fluid expanded (via thermal expansion) it covered more of the parts, which is why it went away after the car warmed up. A later inspection showed that the power steering reservoir/hoses had a leak so they were replaced and the problem was fixed. Could be worth checking out.
Symptoms were chunking noise when turning steering wheel hard (as in parking), particularly after vehicle had warmed up thoroughly.
For yours, I believe the fix is to have Legacy bearings installed, which are a bit heavier duty.
It went on my 2004 Outback at 100k.
I have a Honda with 285K on it, never had a bearing or drivetrain problem. I also have an Isuzu SUV with 140k, no major drivetrain issues.
I was told that Subaru's were great, as long as you sold them before 100K because they self destruct. Now I know how good that advice was.
Three wheel bearings in a vehicle with under 100k. Sounds like poor design or a bad batch of bearings. Neither of which Subaru will admit to! Like the previous post I think I'm done with Subaru. I live in upstate NY and drive in snow for 4 months and the vehicle excels at winter driving. Unfortunately I'm furious with the Subaru local dealer and their "customer service department" and will probably never purchase another Subaru again and will tell as many potential customers as I can!
Best of luck to you, but I really think you were simply lucky with that Honda and Isuzu.
Thought or opinions welcome.
Erich
Having owned a few Isuzus in my day. They are very tough vehicles but really well built cars like them are few and far between. GM killed off Isuzu, so that's not an option.
As for your standards, well they are pretty high. There were some issues with 05-06 Legacies and Outback bearings, bad batch. They extended the warranties to 100k miles on them.
As for the axle boot going on a turbo car, this is fairly common on modified Outbacks/Legacies due to their proximity to the downpipe from the turbo. The stock ones have shielding to protect them but aftermarket ones don't.
-mike
Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
Thought or opinions welcome.
Erich
The salt could definitely part of your issue. Not much you can do about it other than to find a good local mechanic. It's about a $200 repair at an independent shop. (1 hr labor and about $125 for the part).
-mike
Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
Also I just took it to a local shop (who I THINK I trust) for the 100,000 maintenance and they suggested replacing the water pump. Including changing all fluids and belts, etc. it was about $1200 which included 10 hours of labor at $70/per. Previous 30,000 and 60,000 maintenances were in the 300 range so I thought this was a bit high.
Any suggestions? At $700 for labor I may try doing it myself...
Thanks, and yea I'm new.
Water pumps on the modern SOHC 2.5i are gold. So I would NOT trust your local shop. T-belts last well beyond the 105k service interval too unless the tensioner goes. In its 6th year I'd be sure that the plat plugs are new, as well air filter, ps belt, atf (do not ignore!), and other simple stuff. Check right inner DOJ boot if you start to smell it, and be VERY careful to keep coolant reservoir full (check monthly) as you probably have a small (normal?) #4 cyl coolant leak at the gasket.
Cheers.
Ern
TheSubaruGuru/Boston
When I bought mine I was looking for a used one and all I could find were ones with 120,000 miles. Now I know the folks fixed them one more time and then got rid of them. That's my plan.
The mechanic said cost $250. Lived in San Fransisco Bay area for the first 2 years. Then moved to Foothills (country) of Sierra Mountains. It has been great in snow. I have had very good luck with it. Just regular maintenance, oil and brake change etc. The original odometer went out at around 100,000 miles, just before we drove throughout Mexico.
2 years ago, had white light "check engine" come on and so failed smog test. Had that repaired,the catalytic converter.This year had the head gaskets replaced and the alternator.
Even though things are starting to wear out now, I don't think that is too bad for having almost 230,000 miles on it. It is just starting now to give me trouble.
The nice thing about wheel bearing failures is that they warn you ahead of time. The bad part is that when they finally fail, your car isn't going anywhere.... I've had it both ways.
It's like a few posters who have had "gas smell" in their cars that no one can find out why....until one poster pointed out a difficult to find weak clamp on a gas line that simply tightening up, will fix the problem.
I've been serioulsy thinking of getting a used Subi for a winter vehicle, but keep finding outraged Subi owners posting that they will NEVER buy another one. Of course as on any forum there are the usuall Fanboys, who would buy again even if it had 3 wheels and a garbage can for a seat.
Posts like yours make me more confident that good Subi mechanics and long term owners have sorted out what seem like fatal defects and suggest simple but effective fixes.
Now if there was a simple fix to my horrible Honda Odyssey a/t tranny issues!
dlanning may have forgotten that the 2005+ Subies use sealed bearing hub assemblies that are permanently lubricated upon manufacture. There isn't even a way to "repack" them! However it's a good idea to lube mating surfaces carefully so that no excess torque is applied when mounting a new one in order to prevent crushing it.
These assemblies are otherwise extremely easy to mount, total time being 30-40 min per corner. Fair cost is then $60-120 for the bearing hub [non-permissible content removed]'y and $50-80 for labor. Thus at less than $200 per corner it's difficult to countenance complaints of expensive repair requirements.
But the rear struts in the modern Subies are "soft" too. But again, nice KYB GR2 replacements wholesale for only $59 and take 30-45min to install. Annoying, but hardly exorbitant.
The real problem lies in the plethora of overcharging rampant in the industry right now, wherein I'm seeing estimates 2-4x the above!
It serves one to remember that AWD vehicles, having TWO driven axles, are apt to have twice as many wheel bearing issues as simpler FWD or RWD cousins.
Nonetheless I'm getting sick of having to replace so many RWBs this year on 2005-2008 OBs I service....
I have noticed that a big Subie re-seller in Co. lists the things that have been done to their used ones for sale and just about all of the ones with 95 to 120,000 miles have had either one or both "Front axles" replaced, head gaskets, and brake jobs.
Either the local Subies are being beaten to death by enthusiasts or there is something seriously wrong with that brands reliability. Knowing that the vehicles will be used off road, I would think they would be built pretty much indestructable for normal use.
In your opinion, what are the older, (affordable) best years to be shopping for in an Outback 2.5 a/t?
Thanks in advance...
Meant this reply to go to the person who asked for years good for used cars. I'd say 1999 is good. I have never driven off road with it but plenty of snow driving in Lake Tahoe, CA mountains at ski resorts . Drives great in snow no matter what age it is. I gun it snow going up our steep driveway in snow and no problem.
Thanks for the info...this is amazing. 247,000 miles and this is the first problem, not head gaskets, nothing?
longo, I had a 1996 Outback (2.5L) and replaced the head gaskets myself at 192,000 miles. I could tell there was an issue with them, but I didn't have any overheating problems. I continued to drive it to 220,000 miles with no further problems. Sadly, it was destroyed in a crash.
I bet it's the end links or bushings. If the sway bar itself is hanging there loosely, broken, I suggest removing them until you get the new one.
I've upgraded sway bars (to a bigger size, not that they broke) and it's just 4 bolts, not a difficult job.
If you put the car up on a jack stand and cannot get any wiggle out of the wheel when you test for bearing wear, I doubt it is the source of your problem. It could also be a differential or rubbing problem. Usually when you get to the "growling" phase, the bearing is fairly far gone.
So says the subaruguru on this forum....best guess, you ARE getting a rip off quote.
I would have thought that bearings should be replaced in pairs, front and/or back.
You do realize that more money is made on parts than the initial car sale?
The bearings aren't like our old american car front wheel bearings. They are sealed bearings, pressed in, and require parts of the suspension to be removed.
John
New car dealers reward you for making the second biggest purchase in your life by screwing you royally when they get the chance. Once the warranty is up its not usually a good idea to go there. ten hours labor to change a wheel bearing? sounds like a lot but I have no personal experience so maybe its so.