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Comments
The '01 Forester is doing great at almost 89,000 miles (barely broken in in Subaru terms). Yes, I did have the head gasket issue, but Subaru fixed it at no cost to me. My electronic clock stopped working this year, but those clocks tend to go no matter what vehicle they are in (including my girlfriend's CRV). It still drives like it did 9 years ago and the cabin still feels tight and rattle free (I easily fixed two minor rattles early in its life).
Enough of my reminiscing and rambling... So why am I back? Well the redesign has piqued my interest and this is the best place I know to obtain some information regarding the Forester. There are some regular level-headed and knowledgable folks posting here. I have to say that I am a bit hesitant to give up the old Forester because it has been so good to me and is still solid and reliable. I have become somewhat attached to it. However, I think it may be time to own a vehicle with a few more creature comforts than my current ride. After almost 10 years of gainful employment I certainly have the financial means to do so
If I make the jump, its going to be an X Limited with Rugged Package or Utility Package. I really like those wheel arch moldings and splash guards, but on the fence with the body side molding. My favorite exterior color is he Steel Silver Metallic, but my favorite interior is the black. Unfortunately, I can't get the black interior with that exterior color. I don't know what it is about the platinum interior, but it doesn't appeal to me like the black does.
I have not taken a test drive yet, but I have sat in an '09 with the Platinum interior. Here are my observations so far:
Love the new body style and aluminum wheels.
The increased interior space is great and it feels like a more upscale vehicle than my current Forester.
The huge moonroof looks amazing and will help to quell my sadness over the recent sale of my convertible (okay, I'm not that broken up over it).
For the most part, I like the new interior, but I'm not crazy about those swooping hard plastic silver accents running through the dash. It looks and feels cheap to me and I'm hoping it doesn't scratch easily. A minor niggle in the grand scheme of things and perhaps there is an after market solution to the silver plastic. I'm surprised to see that a 5 speed auto has not been offered after all this time. However, it does seem that the current transmission is well mated to the rest of the drivetrain.
I plan to take my time with my purchase. The cash gained from the recent sale of my convertible is going to fund my purchase if I make the leap. I'm hoping for 0% financing in the coming months, which will allow me to hold on to my money and maybe get the kitchen remodeled. If that doesn't happen, then I'll probably just purchase it outright as there are no safe investments right now that will give me more than a 3% return. Current Subie interest rates are 2.9% for three years I beleive, and that doesn't quite do it for me.
On to a couple of questions:
1. Does anyone know who manufactures the round cross bars for the roof rack? I plan to throw bikes and kayaks up there and probably will go aftermarket for those items. I'm wondering if the Yakima system on my '01 will fit the new rails.
2. I know color preference is purely sujective, but I'd still like to get some opinions on exterior colors that can be had with the black interior. The exterior color choices are Black, Spark Silver, Red, and Gold. All of these colors are a possibility to me except for Gold. I have yet to see the Obsidian Black Pearl (sounds really interesting) and the Red in person. Any oipinions on these colors? Is the black difficult to maintain?
3. For those of you that have the Platinum interior, how is the light color holding up against dirt?
4. How is the cabin noise compared to the previous Forester?
Sorry for the long post but, afterall, it has been over 9 years.
Regards,
Skip
The only question I can answer for you is the one about the light interior. I've had mine since Dec and no problems with dirt so far. I'd been pretty concerned about getting light leather, especially since I've never had leather interior before, but it hasn't been an issue. A few times I've gotten dirt marks on the seat and I just wiped it off easily with my finger or a tissue...nothing too technical! I haven't driven any old Foresters, but the cabin noise doesn't bother me at all....doesn't seem loud at all
Connie
The leather in my XT seems to be holding up well after a year.
The gray interior choice helps hide dirt (Subaru remarked that's why they removed Beige color from interior choices).
Going over speed bumps suggest the XT 's backside is weak on rebound damping - the car tends to pogo a bit after the bump, and if you go fast, you may get the rear end to bounce up enough to smack the rear suspension's lower limit stops.
On other hand, the car handles pot holes well.
Cabin noise of Forester seems similar to RAV4, Malibu Maxx, Lexus 400H, but is louder than '09 Outback. Tires have a big impact on this (my '09 quieted down a bit when I swapped Nokians for the Geolanders).
As for trips, the XT cruise control works well with the auto trans. Mileage has been around 24 - 25 on freeway and 18 - 20 in town.
The X, compared with XT, has more of a hair trigger throttle at stop lights and at low speeds, but has little passing power on the freeway.
XT Sport shift mode definitely changes shift points and prefers lower gears, so the car is a bit more responsive
XT requires Premium but __may__ schlep by on Intermediate grade gas. Regular will degrade performance and probably result in overheating or CHK ENGINE light coming on.
Bruce
Consumer Reports tested both, and never mind what the EPA determined inside their labs, CR got 25 mpg on actual roads in their real-world tests, vs. 22 mpg for the automatic. Plus you save nearly a grand up front in purchase cost. It's quicker, and a clutch is cheaper than a rebuild on an automatic.
Having said that, we got an auto because my wife wanted one for the heavy traffic she often gets, plus the fact that the Limited model she wanted only comes with auto.
Wow, time warp! Flash from the past. Good to see you again, buddy.
Can't blame you, I say, in fact we now have a 2009 X Limited, Newport Blue Pearl with Platinum Leather.
I like the colors. The blue is light/medium and doesn't show nearly as much dirt as my dark blue Miata, though my light blue minivan is even better at hiding dirt (yeah, 3 blue cars, I know).
Inside, the platinum leather is very nice. I love that it is perforated and heated, the perfect combo. The carpets are a tad light - the kids dirty shoes stain them. Still, I can't say I'd prefer the charcoal interior because it's just too dark for my tastes.
My van's interior is lighter (stains on the carpet are even worse) but my Miata has a black interior and it's too somber, depressing. Surprisingly it does not hide dirt well and I end up vacuuming that car most often. Anything besides black stands out a lot - leaves in fall, pollen in spring.
So basically I wish the interior carpets were a couple of shades darker, sure, but not charcoal or black.
Cabin noise is decent, there is less wind noise than my '98 had. It falls between my much-louder Miata and my silent-as-a-tomb Sienna.
For us the biggest difference is the back seat is a whole bunch roomier, and because we got a Limited model this time around we got a lot of nice extras, like the heated seats. Make sure you get those, if you want cloth just get the Premium AWP model.
On the one dirt fire-trail I drove (~2k feet rise in ~5 miles), I did a lot of shifting back and forth between first and second and it did cross my mind that an auto would probably be a lot easier for such things. I'm a novice to that sort of driving.
When I bought my '01, my financial situation was much different and I went almost bare bones with the L model. If I remember correctly, the only options on the car were Auto Trans. and tweeter kit. I also liked what I considered the more rugged look of the black bumpers and side cladding over the painted versions on the S model. The interior in the L model at that time was that herringbone patterned cloth in grey. The 2001 interior has actually held up great (cloth and carpets). I really liked the Blue Ridge Pearl exterior and Grey interior combo.
If I do take the plunge, this time around I fully expect to go with the X Limited with either the Rugged Package or Utility Package. Like my current Forester, I plan to have the next one for a long time. So, I'm going to get it just the way I want it.
I'm on the fence regarding buying a new one right now. My current Forester is still running great with almost 88,000 miles (coming up on that expensive 90,000 mile scheduled maintenance). I'm sure I could easily drive this car reliably for another five years or so. I also need to update my circa 1962 kitchen so that may take priority right now. With that said, the new design is very exciting and has really got the juices flowing.
Thanks to those of you who commented regarding the interior and the rack system. I have a feeling my current Yakima system may be compatible with the rails on the new Forester.
I miss the unpainted bumpers a bit, but I think those vanished in 2006, and I understand why. Even though they're teflon tough, they're not the most attractive.
Try this - do your kitchen first, in fact your new car may get some wear and tear carrying all the stuff. When it's done, reward yourself with the new Forester.
The guy who bought my 1998 drives it near where I work. I saw it on the street one time and it was filthy, I nearly cried.
When I had it that thing was in great shape, the wheels were even waxed. At 9 years of age it looked like maybe a 2 year old car.
I suspect there isn't enough rebound damping. My brother's Lexus 400h goes over the same speed bumps without any kickback.
Any suggestions for shocks that provide a little more rebound damping? I may change them over when the main vehicle warranty expires in another year and a half.
I don't plan to change the springs as there's no interest in lowering the vehicle!
Anyway..... I'm getting a bit off topic so i'll stop hijacking the thread now.
Subaru is currently well below average for initial problems with cars. Still, "well below average" means they have 1 or 2 more problems per vehicle than the best cars.
I'd suggest waiting for the '10's as they should have '09 TBS's addressed during assembly.
CU ratings are sometimes hard to decipher (a car that does well in measurements may be rated lower in total, when compared to other brands) but in absolute terms, everything for '09 Forester appears to rate as "better" save fuel system and power equipment, which rate "better-average".
I'd suggest researching your potential dealer to make sure they have a good service department and will fix whatever warranted problems you encounter.
Still, the average car today is very reliable, much more so than, say, in the 1980s.
Having said that, we have all sort of conflicting early information:
JD Powers says it's slightly below average in their IQS study.
CR predicts "Average" reliability.
TrueDelta recorded promising early numbers and the Forester stands out as one of the most reliable new cars for them.
Hard to say what that means in the long-term.
I had a 1998 Forester, which was the very first, and it gave me 9 great years of service and even sold for 40% of what I paid originally, so I'm not concerned.
As a follow up in my situation, and information which may be useful to you:
Is yours a PZEV?
Talked with rep today after he experienced cold start:
It is normal for PZEV which tries to throw exhaust back into catalitic converter. What convinced me, he explained it will stop the roughness if you hit the gas or if you shift to N -- both of these I have experienced. He said many complain.
Only happens with PZEV 4AT.
He also said impossible for engine to do anything abnormal without setting lights/codes.
I am now convinced it is normal. Hope this helps you.
Am interested in your experience with dealer.
Bill
impacting the '09 Forester reliability ratings are related to it being a new 1st-year
model.
I bought my '09 Forester X M/T w/ Premium Package when shipments first arrived
(Feb 08). I now have about 15K miles on the vehicle.
While I've been fortunate and not experienced most of the problems
posted/reported, I've had one minor issue (rattle from inside door) which I fixed
myself; and one major issue which was undersized plastic film rear fender
protectors which required (under warranty) repainting and upgrading of the plastic
film (which Subaru phased into all production vehicles by mid-2008). To their credit,
Subaru did step up and repair my Forester under warranty with no hassle.
I also upgraded the not-so-great (IMHO) stock stereo system.
The only "nagging" concern I harbor is with the long-term durability of the
body/paint. Only time will tell, but the exterior appears to be very thin and
lightweight (compared to other vehicles I own/have owned)... hopefully there
will be no issues down the road.
Based on my ownership experience to date, I am confident the Forester will prove
out to be a very reliable vehicle. And for me the feature mix is unbeatable - ie I
wanted inclement weather performance (AWD), big sunroof, manual xmission, good fuel economy, SUV/wagon stowage capacity, and reasonable purchase price.
The '09 Forester delivers on this and more!
Good luck with your purchase decision...
$2.69 gal @ 22 mpg
$1222
Forester XT cost for 10,000 miles driving;
$2.99 gal @ 20 mpg
$1495
Outback H6 cost for 10,000 miles driving:
$2.69 gal @ 18 mpg
$1494
These are all 2010 models being compared.
Interesting that fuel expense for the Outback H6 is similar to the Forester XT.
The CVT Outback 2.5i is rated at 31mpg highway, mama-mia! Ultra-tall highway gearing gets the credit for that, it's chugging along at 2000rpm at 80mph.
That makes me want to sample a Forester CVT...it's lighter, maybe 32mpg? Sign me up!
But at what price? I would not be surprised at higher production cost for the CVT than the 4-speed's guts which is probably a high volume production JATCO unit.
Does anyone know who actually builds the CVT belt assembly? It would be no surprise if it is JATCO with parts shared by Nissan and Toyota.
Several articles said the Subaru CVT's chain is licensed and sourced from the same company building Audi's CVT's (it does not use a belt - the chain has much greater strength and wear resistance). The rest of the CVT is built by Subaru.
The 5-speed auto is probably the same one Subaru has used in the past with a few updates. I've read it's sourced from Nissan and is in limited supply.
They ask very few "personal" questions.
I don't work for them, BTW.
Subaru has previously stated that it is a JATCO 4 speed modified by Subaru to five speeds. I believe the modification process is the bottleneck.
If the CVT chain and pulleys are common with Audi why the seemingly low torque capacity? Or is there a fore-and-aft dimension increase that is incompatible with the six cylinder in the chassis?
The '10 OB CVT is rated 29 MPG on the highway. Legacy CVT is 31.
Bob
Or cheap. The cost of re-certifying a low volume product with the CVT could have been too much....and if fuel economy rules are tightened much more the 3.6 liter engine with either transmission may become history.
That should improve fuel economy and low end power for all their engines. :shades:
They also should get rid of the series coolant flow of the H-4 engines and use the parallel flow scheme the H-6 gained when adapted for the Tribeca. That change in cooling was one reason the H-6 became able to use regular grade gasoline.
....and yeah, they'll have to redesign the H-4 engine block for that, which is a big expense. :surprise:
....and yeah, they'll have to redesign the H-4 engine block for that, which is a big expense
I know they bored and stroked the 3.0 block and employed the odd assembly procedure for pistons and rods, but was not aware of new coolant passages other than in the head which they discussed publically. Are you sure the block got that change?
Even with direct injection and CVT the fleet average fuel consumption might still be too high to keep the six unless they successfully introduce a small high mpg model. Perhaps the Toybaru roadster would help.
However, I don't remember whether the block and head, or just the head, were changed to allow parallel coolant flow.
The XT's turbo engine still uses series cooling, and one cylinder (#3 or #4, I forget which) runs hotter than others and has the knock sensor for that reason.
While I personally chose the 3.0 over the turbo in 2005 because of excessive turbo lag, with a rumored 8.0 sec 0-60 for the CVT 4 I would choose the normally aspirated four today. That 8 second rumor may be incorrect, however.
Some testers comment the '09 Forester power delivery seems patchy. Local speed shops in Portland ran dyno tests and claimed the '09's tested frequently went into detonation detection mode and reduced power. The explaination was Subaru engines were originally designed for 98 Octane gas, and through detuning have encountered some problems. A "rechipping" supposedly fixes the problem, but will void the engine warranty.
The '09 WRX got a larger turbo, new catalyst and exhaust system that improved horsepower, but moved the torque peak farther up the curve so the WRX now has the "turbo rush" either loved or hated by enthusiasts.
The '10 Legacy got a revised turbo system that further reduced turbo lag, mostly by moving the turbo closer to the exhaust manfold and shortening some of the duct work.
But the Outback lost the turbo option in favor of the 3.6l. Perhaps just one too many models to certify? Or is there some other good reason?
With the low mounted turbo already in use on the Legacy, the turbo diesel might actually be introduced here. It certainly would help CAFE.
Also, perhaps Subaru did not sell all that many Outback XT's to warrant keeping that version alive? They did cancel the Manual transmission Forester XT because no one was buying it (immediately raising howls from the auto journalists).
I just took delivery of my new 2010 Subaru Forester X Premium. I think that I am experiencing the same thing as you: when starting in the morning the engine first tries to rev at 750 rpm and it sputter and almost stalls, then the rpm kicks up to 1,000 and it does the same thing, then 1,250 ditto and at 1,500 it momentarily sputters and then revs smoothly. This has happened since purchasing. I brought the vehicle to the dealer to check. What they tell me is that this will happen during the break in period (500-1,000 miles) as the engine's computer is adjusting. The surging rpm's is normal duringthe break in period. Apparently the engine is trying to start while minimizing emissions (vehicle is listed a partial zero emission vehicle). The check engine light did not come on. I'm currently at roughly 330 miles. Let me know if your problem has been resolved and I'll let you know the same. How many miles do you have on the vehicle?
As for the transmission shifting, even if you hold the gas pedal at the same position the vehicle may downshift on a upgrade. That is normal, I've experienced this with other vehicles.
1. During morning starts the engine would run rough for the first minute. The engine would try to rev at 750 rpm, sputter and almost stall. Then the rpm's would kick up to 1,000 and do the same. Then go up to 1,250 and do the same. Then finally go to 1,500 rpm sputter and then settle in. The same thing has happened every morning. The check engine light never came on. The dealer indicates that this is normal during the break-in period and will go away. This has to do with the emissions computer and the PZEV (partial zero emission vehicle). I'll probably send an email to Subaru of America to see how they respond (they have been very responsive to all my questions while I was considering this vehicle).
2. The security etching on the windows (I did not ask for this but it was done anyway) had acid over spray that scarred the window. The dealer is replacing the window.
3. A small buzzing/rattle in the dashboard/door on the passenger side. Dealer found a couple of body clips that were not fully engaged and set them back in place. This seemed to work but the buzz/rattle is back. So I'll ask the dealer to look at this again when the window is replaced.
4. The rear rattles from the cargo floor panels, under floor tray and jack. I've checked to make sure that the spare tire was secure and that was not the issue. However, I've noticed the noise is less prominent as the suspension is starting to wear in a little. I plan to fix this myself with some foam/padding. I'm sure that a cargo tray would eliminate the cargo floor panel noise by keeping them down.
Putting some kind of padding or foam over the spare tire tool kit can minimize that rattle.
As for the door rattles (especially during cold weather), it was earlier reported that an internal waffle-patterned baffle is not always securely fashioned. My dealer added foam inserts between the baffle and the door's inner trim, which seems to have stopped most of the buzzing. That problem is a Subaru TSB.
If '10 models still have this rattle, that will be surprising.
I now have 6,000 miles.
After dealer kept car overnight for Subaru engineer to diagnose, I talked with engineer. He explained, and convinced me, this is normal (by design) for PZEV 4AT.
On first cold start in the morning the computer wants to warm up the catalitic converter as fast as possible to reduce emissions. It does this by holding some valves shut for about 30 sec which causes the roughness and noise.
It will not go away, it is by design. It is typical of all PZEV AT -- not only Subaru.
Here is how to tell if operation is normal:
1. After start slightly depress gas -- roughness will stop -- computer thinks you are ready to drive off and changes logic. or
2. After start immediately shift to neutral -- same result as above.
So, if it acts as described above and runs fine once warm it is normal.
Engineer also claims it is impossible for engine to malfunction without check engine light coming on.
Subaru has PZEV in all states even though all states do not require it. My state does not require it, and so my dealerr was not aware of this characteristic -- had not seen it before. To his credit, he called in the Subaru Rep to see the car.
Are you in a PZEV state?
I think the transmission characteristic you describe is normal.
Hope this helps. Would appreciate hearing back from you.
These are great cars.
Bill
Yes, it is disappointing that what you described is exactly what I'm experiencing. It was 67 degrees F this morning and there was a rattle in the front passenger door. When I left work this evening it was 82 degrees F and there was no rattle. I'll pass this onto the dealer. Thanks.
Hopefully your dealer will know what to do to get rid of the rattles. It took two tries on mine with foam added different places.
Subaru reminds me of Saturn, whose vehicles also had numerous interior trim rattles.
When I removed the door liner (to install a decent set of speakers) I found that inside the door there is a plastic "waffle" style baffle (the purpose of which I have no idea!). This baffle loosely floats in a sheet metal cutout in the door, and it was obvious this was making the rattling noise.
I suppose there are lots of ways to address this...I looked around my garage and found some good caulking material, and placed a bead between the plastic baffle and the sheet metal.
This appears to have worked, because the rattle has not reappeared.
Hope this helps...
How easy is it to remove the '09 Forester door trim?
What steps did you follow?
I took a look at a $55,000 Lexus RX450H. Many of the interior materials are just as flimsy as anything in the Forester. The door arm rests are covered in very thin vinyl like material that will easily tear. There are a number of hard, shiny surfaces that will scratch.
Some of the BMW's I've seen are similar, and Edmunds reported how banged up one of their expensive BMW's consoles became during a user test run.
Wrt Forester, I don't know of any user applyable finish that will protect the interior painted areas, and neither did my generally knowledgeable dealer.