It's is a cooling line for the power steering fluid. They run it out in front of the rad allowing it to get cooled by the air flow.
Measure the outside diameter of the piping and go get a foot of rubber hose like fuel line and a couple clamps,. cut out the rusted/leaking area and cut the hose to fit and clamp it up/. If you want to be fancy and have a flaring kit, then that method is also possible. Either way use some tie wraps and some rubber/foam back supports to tie it up securely so that it does not hang or rub against the frame. The original plastic hold down clips have most likely broken away.
Alternately, rob a bank and go to the dealer and ask for a power steering cooling line.
I am having the same problem with my Intrigue. When I start it starts running rough then stalls, all the lights come on, as well as the security light. Sometimes it also stalls while driving. What was the actual problem and resolution with your vehicle. I changed the ignition cylinder but I am still having problems. Thanks CHris
first off dtownfb is the guardian angel of this blog.listen carefully to what he speaks.replacing the ignition cylinder is not replacing the switch.you must report what you do with the upmost accuracy or this car can never be troubleshot properly.
Thank you for the praise billcarson but I learned about solving some of the Olds Intrigue issues from others who shared their wisdom, on this forum and other forums. I just try to help folks with things I know about. A faulty ignition switch causes some strange issues with this vehicle and in some cases makes you think you have a fuel related problem.
What does it mean when a car repair shop tells me they got a code that says crank shaft injector? please help. Do not understand what this is. Car stalled only once and cranked a couple of times. Thank you
I have a 2000 Olds Intrigue. It had very corroded battery cables that were cleaned and the end of one was replaced. The battery was not dead but when driving the battery light started flashing and the power windows would get slow. It seemed that everything else was working but the battery light kept coming on and off. It was discovered that a new battery was necessary and it was replaced. It did not fix the problem. It does not go dead, but it is not getting a good charge. The battery light keeps going on and off. The battery only stays charged up to about 60%. This is the new battery. I looked to see about changing the alternator and it is in a place that appears almost impossible to get to. Is there as way to get to it to change it any easier than it looks? Could it still have something to do with the cable? I thought if an alternator goes, it goes.
Please someone reply to my question. what does it mean when a code says there is a problem with a crank shaft sensor. 2001 oldsmobile intrigure. Car only stalled once and cranked only two times when I started it. Otherwise runs great. Thank you
give the faithfull here the code and someone will help you.i think you are calling the code name wrong.injector?on computer controlled cars the timing between the camshaft(valves) and the crankshaft(pistons) are controlled by the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor.these pulses are sent to the computer to control the timing.i believe it is located behind the starter on your car.when the sensors are acting up it will cause what you describe.notice you do not have a distributer cap. good luck.
google"alternator replacement intrigue" and it will come up from automotive forums. it is an expensive job on this car and you should make sure you are having the alternator troubleshoot properly.also if you go for the alternator don't buy any old brand.this car is so wierd in this respect.some say delco,some say bosch.my intrigue has a "delphi automotive" and i have had no issues.good luck.
I think billcarson is on the right path. The only other thing I would do is change the other battery cable. If that does not fix it, it is likely the alternator.
I have a 2000 3.5 with 245000 on it and is having similar issues. I could always get it started by shorting the crank relay but now it will only start and run for a few seconds. I engine cluster gauges will not work now either. Any ideals?
My service light came on and I took it to Advance and had the code read.. P0335. Crank Shaft Position. It starts fine, with the exception of once or twice it would not turn over. Is this a difficult fix?
I was driving on I-75 to Tampa today having speed problems. I had to race downhill in order to make 50 mph up the hills. The car finally stopped completely a few miles from our destination and had to be towed home. At home we got a new crankshaft sensor but that didn't fix everything. We took the car back to the repair shop and he fond a leak in the coolant reservoir. Could the overheating have caused the speed problem on I-75? Was it protecting me from ruining my engine? And should a coolant reservoir cost over $65?
When the 3.5 engine is very low on coolant, it will start running on 3 cylinders in order to protect itself. This may have been happening to you. I read about this somewhere. Maybe the owners manual. I think you are suppose to change the oil after this happens.
My 2001 Oldsmobile Intrigue 3.8 V6 is running rough and two misfire codes have been thrown. I have been told it is an ignition coil pack, does this sound possible? If so, how difficult is it to replace an ignition coil pack on a 2001 Oldsmobile Intrigue? Is there any computer work that would need to be done as a result of the part change? I am hoping to do this work myself if it is not too difficult so any advice or tips are appreciated.
Hello All Regarding the problem with the Intrigue Starting and stalling. I had mine taken in and the shop had it for about 3 weeks, it took a couple of weeks fhe problem to occur again. Any ways, what they did was found that the computer was not reading right, they said it smelled fried so they replaced the computer and had to reflash the programing, once the put the new computer in the Cranks Sensor came up as faulty so they replaced that. they also replace the mass air flow sensor. i think it was a combination between the computer and crank sensor, I have had it back for a couple weeks now and is running great.
any one that wants to email me feel free bender1972@hotmail.com
On another forum I belong, we are starting to see more computer related issues with the Intrigue. It makes sense since the youngest Intrigue is now 8 years old.
All GLS models w/chrome wheels, leather, and sunroofs..First one was a 98 which GM bought back after 26k miles due to steering and brakes issues, cost me $650 to drive it..Purchased a 99 w/3.5, put a quick 75k on it and traded it on a 2002 which I keep until 6/30/07 with mileage of 120k.
The 99er and the 2002 were both equipped with the SLP catback exhaust, oil changed every 3k. The 99er had 1 engine issue, crank sensor, 1 a/c issue, several ISS issues and brake rotor warpage..The 2002 had alignment issues and the local Chevy dealer reslotted all 4 struts, Olds/Caddy was a lightweight in the area of mechanics..The 2002 brakes were great until 65k and then they went into shock, replaced RH knuckle assy..
Engine in the 2002 received it's first new sparkplugs @110k, great car loved the 80-90 cruise..the 2002 was driven only in Florida, spending some 90% of the mileage on I-75..
The Intrigue was the best of the W-body offerings by GM, but due to limited service knowledge at the dealerships, I was afraid that excessive mileage would be an expensive problem..Good luck to all with all the problems..
I would buy a low mileage "500" series...under 40k miles..
well ive now had my 2000 oldsmobile intrigue for 10 years and all of a sudden i see my fuel drains WAYYYYY faster than it did before. i know it is a V6 but i know the fuel economy on this car and its not this bad. anyone have/had a problem like this on their car? if so please tell me wat can be the problem. btw i changed the air filter already, did a oil change, and used the gumout fuel injector cleaner and nothin works. i put $15 gas regular in it and it only went up 1/4 the tank and lasted me only 2 DAYS and i didnt drive anywhere far like that. it seem like it drain gas by itself. please let me know wat i can do. thanks
My 2000 olds intrigue won't start MOST times. New battery, good connections, good starter & solenoid and connections good at starter. What is the problem with this car. Might start now, or not. Help please
On another forum, I poster was complaining about the same thing. He found out that his rear brake was dragging. He replaced the rear calipers along with the rotors and pads. All is well.
As long as you have been up to date on maintenance and there are no "check engine" lights on, you may want to check items like your brakes.
1999 Intrigue 3.8 liter with 186k miles. Problems:
1. ABS, Trac-off, SES lights go on and off simulatiously; sometimes they come on sometimes they don't. When all three lights are on the steering is tight. Sometimes only the ABS and Trac-off lights appear. When those 2 lights are on and the brakes are applied the breaks grind. . 2. After stopping and putting car in park there is a loud "thud" from the right rear side. 3. Upon starting the car sometimes the A/C-Heater will not work (display is blank) and the automatic headlights will not come on. After about 3-5min they both start working about the same time. 4. When putting gas in the car I have to dribble it in. Otherwise it overflows.
After reading several posts I think a new ignition switch would help some things. The other issues I'm open for suggestions.
An engine that does not get up to operating temperature will consume a great deal more fuel. What does the temp gauge show? Your O2 sensor may also be suspect causing the computer to go to full rich on the program as a default. Is check engine light on? Any codes?
on odd problems like this, you need a talented tech, not a parts swapper. The ABS and TRAC problems could be a speed sensor on your wheels is not working as it should. A tech can put the car through tests that read the signals from each sensor as a waveform on a scope.
You may be on the right track with ign switch. also battery connection could be issue. What codes are stored? let us know what you find out.
A lot of problems have been traced to ignition switch going bad. If you have trouble with engine turning on (not cranking) try checking that. Also make sure your gear shifter is firmly in park
Ok, glad you like the car. Are you giving praise or mad because the car needed what is pretty typical service items?
I have a '00 GLS we got off Ebay with 90k, and besides the brake and PS lines rusting from buying a rust belt car ( what was i thinking??) its been a great car. We love the ride and power, fuel economy, luxury options, stability control is a safety feature. I just replaced the plugs at 145k and rear struts gave out, replaced with Monroe, brakes and tranny are solid, engine starts right away. We had a rock take out the condenser, but otherwise a very solid car. Thumbs up, with usual caveats.
Hello, I have 2002 Olds Intrigue V6, 3.8L (50,000 miles) and I have noticed the same 'dip' in gas consumption. I also changed air filter and tried to use additives to clean the fuel injectors, also checked the tire pressure. Had recent work done on breaks - thus they are not a problem (I guess). ALso drove on a highway for 5 hrs at a stretch (someone told me that a long round on highway can clear up injectors!).
My temp. guage is mostly at 1/4 mark. Also, due to a faulty ABS, a "service your vehicle soon" light is always on. I am a student and do not want to spend money on fixing ABS.
Also, due to a faulty ABS, a "service your vehicle soon" light is always on. I am a student and do not want to spend money on fixing ABS.
The service engine soon light or "money light " can be on for over a couple thousand different codes and much more than one at a time.
Unless your dripping fuel due to a hole in the tank or return line then I would get it scanned and report the codes.
Using a 1/4 or 1/2 tank of gas over x number of days is meaningless.
One needs to fill the tank, reset the trip odometer, drive a bunch of miles/klics until at least 3/4 tank of gas is consumed (more the better) Fill er back up and record the odometer reading and the gallons/liters consumed and note driving conditions(highway, stop and go, time of year etc.).
Then do a simple calculation and then compare the results with driving conditions during that trip and only then can one determine mileage/kilometrage.
I totally agree with that strategy of calculating exact 'kilometerage.' In city driving (Saskatoon is a small Canadian city and does NOT require a lot of stops and gos), I am able to drive 300km on 50 liter of fuel. i,e, 6 km to one liter of gas!! I do not have calculations from earlier on, but couple of years back, it used to be much better for fuel consumption.
I am able to drive 300km on 50 liter of fuel. i,e, 6 km to one liter of gas!! I do not have calculations from earlier on, but couple of years back, it used to be much better for fuel consumption.
With km to L of 6 if you multiply by 2.8 you will get miles to Canadian gallon. Knock off 20 % to get US gallons. 10klics to a liter is 28 miles to a gallon for old schoolers like me. I will typically just multiply by 3 and round down a bit when filling up.
For comparison out Atlantic way here I used to track all mileage for years and would get around as low as 21-22 m/g or a little more than 7K/L in winter going back to the grocery store. As high as 36 to 38 m/g or12 to 13K/L on all highway in summer with and without air Average ran 8.5 to 11 K/L or 26 to 33 M/G
Also, I have replaced my Michelin tires with Nokian all season tires. Could they be responsible for higher fuel consumption?
Newer tires or tires with more tread(greater circumference) will give a bit less "calculated" fuel mileage,
A worn or smaller diameter tire will go less distance than a bigger tire per axle revolution, however, the odometer looks at axle revs so it thinks it is going farther than it actually is going, therefore perceived better mileage than the new tire. So count on 1 to 2 % loss n mileage depending on the wear on the old skins.
Lets do some ciphering... Pay attention now, there may be a quiz at the end.
New tires have say 12/32s and the wear bars changeout would be 3/32s which is a difference in radius of 9/32 or 0.3". Which gives a circumference difference of around (2*PI*R)or 2" less per rev.
A new 225/60/16 has a circumference of 83.6 inches. radius =(60%225mm)+(1/2of16"rim*25.4mm)=338.2mm/25.4 or 13.31 inches * 2*PI =83.62" or 6.97 ft. per rev. 5280 ft per mile/6.97ft gets 757.74 revs per mile on a new 225/60/16
Now doing this for a worn down tire with a radius 0.3 inch less gets 13.00 inches" * 2*PI =81.64" or 6.8ft. per rev. 5280 ft per mile/6.8ft gets 776.09 revs per mile on a worn 225/60/16
Therefore, about an extra 19 revs/(counts to the odometer) on 757.7 is 19/757=.025 or 2.5% perceived extra distance on the odometer.
Hence, on a worn tire, the speedo reads 2.5% less than true, or when you think your cruising at 100 your really are going 97.5 and your mileage/odometer then comes in at 2.5% more than actual. So if you calculate that your getting 30mpg base on the faulty odo. reading, you really are getting 97.5% of 30 or 29.25mpg. When you slap on the new "bigger" skins the odo is right, your calculations now come in at 29mpg and you "think" your getting less mileage.
If my math and logic is presented right? :confuse:
Of coarse, type of rubber, strength of sidewalls, tire pressure or /and rolling resistance etc. of the new sneakers can also wear down/ increase the mileage
I have an 02 Olds Intrigue and I'm having an issue where it likes to jerk between 0 and 30 miles an hour only when I accelerate like you should. It also starts kind of hard but if I let it sit in the on position for like a minute than turn it off than go to start it, it will start with out a problem.
Well my problems were with starting and stalling sometimes my car would't start right, would take a few times to start and sometimes it would stall while driving.. The solution to mine was a Crank Sensor. At first the computer wasn't reading right so and it was burnt out so they put new computer in and then the crank sensor came up. so after that it has run fine.. send me an email bender1972@hotmail.com if u like
Comments
Measure the outside diameter of the piping and go get a foot of rubber hose like fuel line and a couple clamps,. cut out the rusted/leaking area and cut the hose to fit and clamp it up/. If you want to be fancy and have a flaring kit, then that method is also possible. Either way use some tie wraps and some rubber/foam back supports to tie it up securely so that it does not hang or rub against the frame. The original plastic hold down clips have most likely broken away.
Alternately, rob a bank and go to the dealer and ask for a power steering cooling line.
I am having the same problem with my Intrigue. When I start it starts running rough then stalls, all the lights come on, as well as the security light. Sometimes it also stalls while driving. What was the actual problem and resolution with your vehicle. I changed the ignition cylinder but I am still having problems.
Thanks CHris
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=940720&highlight=alte- rnator+replacement
Sandy in Sumter County FL
bad.
A bad ignition coil could cause a misfire. It also could be a bad spark plug.
What was the exact codes? Have you changed the spark plugs?
Regarding the problem with the Intrigue Starting and stalling. I had mine taken in and the shop had it for about 3 weeks, it took a couple of weeks fhe problem to occur again. Any ways, what they did was found that the computer was not reading right, they said it smelled fried so they replaced the computer and had to reflash the programing, once the put the new computer in the Cranks Sensor came up as faulty so they replaced that. they also replace the mass air flow sensor. i think it was a combination between the computer and crank sensor, I have had it back for a couple weeks now and is running great.
any one that wants to email me feel free bender1972@hotmail.com
The 99er and the 2002 were both equipped with the SLP catback exhaust, oil changed every 3k. The 99er had 1 engine issue, crank sensor, 1 a/c issue, several ISS issues and brake rotor warpage..The 2002 had alignment issues and the local Chevy dealer reslotted all 4 struts, Olds/Caddy was a lightweight in the area of mechanics..The 2002 brakes were great until 65k and then they went into shock, replaced RH knuckle assy..
Engine in the 2002 received it's first new sparkplugs @110k, great car loved the 80-90 cruise..the 2002 was driven only in Florida, spending some 90% of the mileage on I-75..
The Intrigue was the best of the W-body offerings by GM, but due to limited service knowledge at the dealerships, I was afraid that excessive mileage would be an expensive problem..Good luck to all with all the problems..
I would buy a low mileage "500" series...under 40k miles..
As long as you have been up to date on maintenance and there are no "check engine" lights on, you may want to check items like your brakes.
Problems:
1. ABS, Trac-off, SES lights go on and off simulatiously; sometimes they come on sometimes they don't. When all three lights are on the steering is tight. Sometimes only the ABS and Trac-off lights appear. When those 2 lights are on and the brakes are applied the breaks grind. .
2. After stopping and putting car in park there is a loud "thud" from the right rear side.
3. Upon starting the car sometimes the A/C-Heater will not work (display is blank) and the automatic headlights will not come on. After about 3-5min they both start working about the same time.
4. When putting gas in the car I have to dribble it in. Otherwise it overflows.
After reading several posts I think a new ignition switch would help some things. The other issues I'm open for suggestions.
You may be on the right track with ign switch. also battery connection could be issue.
What codes are stored?
let us know what you find out.
I have a '00 GLS we got off Ebay with 90k, and besides the brake and PS lines rusting from buying a rust belt car ( what was i thinking??) its been a great car. We love the ride and power, fuel economy, luxury options, stability control is a safety feature. I just replaced the plugs at 145k and rear struts gave out, replaced with Monroe, brakes and tranny are solid, engine starts right away. We had a rock take out the condenser, but otherwise a very solid car.
I have 2002 Olds Intrigue V6, 3.8L (50,000 miles) and I have noticed the same 'dip' in gas consumption. I also changed air filter and tried to use additives to clean the fuel injectors, also checked the tire pressure. Had recent work done on breaks - thus they are not a problem (I guess). ALso drove on a highway for 5 hrs at a stretch (someone told me that a long round on highway can clear up injectors!).
My temp. guage is mostly at 1/4 mark. Also, due to a faulty ABS, a "service your vehicle soon" light is always on. I am a student and do not want to spend money on fixing ABS.
Some inputs would be highly appreciated.
The service engine soon light or "money light " can be on for over a couple thousand different codes and much more than one at a time.
Unless your dripping fuel due to a hole in the tank or return line then I would get it scanned and report the codes.
Using a 1/4 or 1/2 tank of gas over x number of days is meaningless.
One needs to fill the tank, reset the trip odometer, drive a bunch of miles/klics until at least 3/4 tank of gas is consumed (more the better) Fill er back up and record the odometer reading and the gallons/liters consumed and note driving conditions(highway, stop and go, time of year etc.).
Then do a simple calculation and then compare the results with driving conditions during that trip and only then can one determine mileage/kilometrage.
In city driving (Saskatoon is a small Canadian city and does NOT require a lot of stops and gos), I am able to drive 300km on 50 liter of fuel. i,e, 6 km to one liter of gas!! I do not have calculations from earlier on, but couple of years back, it used to be much better for fuel consumption.
I have replaced my Michelin tires with Nokian all season tires. Could they be responsible for higher fuel consumption?
With km to L of 6 if you multiply by 2.8 you will get miles to Canadian gallon.
Knock off 20 % to get US gallons.
10klics to a liter is 28 miles to a gallon for old schoolers like me.
I will typically just multiply by 3 and round down a bit when filling up.
For comparison out Atlantic way here
I used to track all mileage for years and would get around
as low as 21-22 m/g or a little more than 7K/L in winter going back to the grocery store.
As high as 36 to 38 m/g or12 to 13K/L on all highway in summer with and without air
Average ran 8.5 to 11 K/L or 26 to 33 M/G
Also,
I have replaced my Michelin tires with Nokian all season tires. Could they be responsible for higher fuel consumption?
Newer tires or tires with more tread(greater circumference) will give a bit less "calculated" fuel mileage,
A worn or smaller diameter tire will go less distance than a bigger tire per axle revolution, however, the odometer looks at axle revs so it thinks it is going farther than it actually is going, therefore perceived better mileage than the new tire. So count on 1 to 2 % loss n mileage depending on the wear on the old skins.
Lets do some ciphering... Pay attention now, there may be a quiz at the end.
New tires have say 12/32s and the wear bars changeout would be 3/32s which is a difference in radius of 9/32 or 0.3". Which gives a circumference difference of around (2*PI*R)or 2" less per rev.
A new 225/60/16 has a circumference of 83.6 inches.
radius =(60%225mm)+(1/2of16"rim*25.4mm)=338.2mm/25.4 or 13.31 inches * 2*PI =83.62" or 6.97 ft. per rev.
5280 ft per mile/6.97ft gets 757.74 revs per mile on a new 225/60/16
Now doing this for a worn down tire with a radius 0.3 inch less gets
13.00 inches" * 2*PI =81.64" or 6.8ft. per rev.
5280 ft per mile/6.8ft gets 776.09 revs per mile on a worn 225/60/16
Therefore, about an extra 19 revs/(counts to the odometer) on 757.7 is 19/757=.025 or 2.5% perceived extra distance on the odometer.
Hence, on a worn tire, the speedo reads 2.5% less than true, or when you think your cruising at 100 your really are going 97.5 and your mileage/odometer then comes in at 2.5% more than actual.
So if you calculate that your getting 30mpg base on the faulty odo. reading, you really are getting 97.5% of 30 or 29.25mpg. When you slap on the new "bigger" skins the odo is right, your calculations now come in at 29mpg and you "think" your getting less mileage.
If my math and logic is presented right? :confuse:
Of coarse, type of rubber, strength of sidewalls, tire pressure or /and rolling resistance etc. of the new sneakers can also wear down/ increase the mileage
I hope I got those #'s right.
Well my problems were with starting and stalling sometimes my car would't start right, would take a few times to start and sometimes it would stall while driving..
The solution to mine was a Crank Sensor. At first the computer wasn't reading right so and it was burnt out so they put new computer in and then the crank sensor came up.
so after that it has run fine..
send me an email bender1972@hotmail.com if u like