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Measure the outside diameter of the piping and go get a foot of rubber hose like fuel line and a couple clamps,. cut out the rusted/leaking area and cut the hose to fit and clamp it up/. If you want to be fancy and have a flaring kit, then that method is also possible. Either way use some tie wraps and some rubber/foam back supports to tie it up securely so that it does not hang or rub against the frame. The original plastic hold down clips have most likely broken away.
Alternately, rob a bank and go to the dealer and ask for a power steering cooling line.
I am having the same problem with my Intrigue. When I start it starts running rough then stalls, all the lights come on, as well as the security light. Sometimes it also stalls while driving. What was the actual problem and resolution with your vehicle. I changed the ignition cylinder but I am still having problems.
Thanks CHris
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=940720&highlight=alte- rnator+replacement
Sandy in Sumter County FL
bad.
A bad ignition coil could cause a misfire. It also could be a bad spark plug.
What was the exact codes? Have you changed the spark plugs?
Regarding the problem with the Intrigue Starting and stalling. I had mine taken in and the shop had it for about 3 weeks, it took a couple of weeks fhe problem to occur again. Any ways, what they did was found that the computer was not reading right, they said it smelled fried so they replaced the computer and had to reflash the programing, once the put the new computer in the Cranks Sensor came up as faulty so they replaced that. they also replace the mass air flow sensor. i think it was a combination between the computer and crank sensor, I have had it back for a couple weeks now and is running great.
any one that wants to email me feel free bender1972@hotmail.com
The 99er and the 2002 were both equipped with the SLP catback exhaust, oil changed every 3k. The 99er had 1 engine issue, crank sensor, 1 a/c issue, several ISS issues and brake rotor warpage..The 2002 had alignment issues and the local Chevy dealer reslotted all 4 struts, Olds/Caddy was a lightweight in the area of mechanics..The 2002 brakes were great until 65k and then they went into shock, replaced RH knuckle assy..
Engine in the 2002 received it's first new sparkplugs @110k, great car loved the 80-90 cruise..the 2002 was driven only in Florida, spending some 90% of the mileage on I-75..
The Intrigue was the best of the W-body offerings by GM, but due to limited service knowledge at the dealerships, I was afraid that excessive mileage would be an expensive problem..Good luck to all with all the problems..
I would buy a low mileage "500" series...under 40k miles..
As long as you have been up to date on maintenance and there are no "check engine" lights on, you may want to check items like your brakes.
Problems:
1. ABS, Trac-off, SES lights go on and off simulatiously; sometimes they come on sometimes they don't. When all three lights are on the steering is tight. Sometimes only the ABS and Trac-off lights appear. When those 2 lights are on and the brakes are applied the breaks grind. .
2. After stopping and putting car in park there is a loud "thud" from the right rear side.
3. Upon starting the car sometimes the A/C-Heater will not work (display is blank) and the automatic headlights will not come on. After about 3-5min they both start working about the same time.
4. When putting gas in the car I have to dribble it in. Otherwise it overflows.
After reading several posts I think a new ignition switch would help some things. The other issues I'm open for suggestions.
You may be on the right track with ign switch. also battery connection could be issue.
What codes are stored?
let us know what you find out.
I have a '00 GLS we got off Ebay with 90k, and besides the brake and PS lines rusting from buying a rust belt car ( what was i thinking??) its been a great car. We love the ride and power, fuel economy, luxury options, stability control is a safety feature. I just replaced the plugs at 145k and rear struts gave out, replaced with Monroe, brakes and tranny are solid, engine starts right away. We had a rock take out the condenser, but otherwise a very solid car.
I have 2002 Olds Intrigue V6, 3.8L (50,000 miles) and I have noticed the same 'dip' in gas consumption. I also changed air filter and tried to use additives to clean the fuel injectors, also checked the tire pressure. Had recent work done on breaks - thus they are not a problem (I guess). ALso drove on a highway for 5 hrs at a stretch (someone told me that a long round on highway can clear up injectors!).
My temp. guage is mostly at 1/4 mark. Also, due to a faulty ABS, a "service your vehicle soon" light is always on. I am a student and do not want to spend money on fixing ABS.
Some inputs would be highly appreciated.
The service engine soon light or "money light " can be on for over a couple thousand different codes and much more than one at a time.
Unless your dripping fuel due to a hole in the tank or return line then I would get it scanned and report the codes.
Using a 1/4 or 1/2 tank of gas over x number of days is meaningless.
One needs to fill the tank, reset the trip odometer, drive a bunch of miles/klics until at least 3/4 tank of gas is consumed (more the better) Fill er back up and record the odometer reading and the gallons/liters consumed and note driving conditions(highway, stop and go, time of year etc.).
Then do a simple calculation and then compare the results with driving conditions during that trip and only then can one determine mileage/kilometrage.
In city driving (Saskatoon is a small Canadian city and does NOT require a lot of stops and gos), I am able to drive 300km on 50 liter of fuel. i,e, 6 km to one liter of gas!! I do not have calculations from earlier on, but couple of years back, it used to be much better for fuel consumption.
I have replaced my Michelin tires with Nokian all season tires. Could they be responsible for higher fuel consumption?
With km to L of 6 if you multiply by 2.8 you will get miles to Canadian gallon.
Knock off 20 % to get US gallons.
10klics to a liter is 28 miles to a gallon for old schoolers like me.
I will typically just multiply by 3 and round down a bit when filling up.
For comparison out Atlantic way here
I used to track all mileage for years and would get around
as low as 21-22 m/g or a little more than 7K/L in winter going back to the grocery store.
As high as 36 to 38 m/g or12 to 13K/L on all highway in summer with and without air
Average ran 8.5 to 11 K/L or 26 to 33 M/G
Also,
I have replaced my Michelin tires with Nokian all season tires. Could they be responsible for higher fuel consumption?
Newer tires or tires with more tread(greater circumference) will give a bit less "calculated" fuel mileage,
A worn or smaller diameter tire will go less distance than a bigger tire per axle revolution, however, the odometer looks at axle revs so it thinks it is going farther than it actually is going, therefore perceived better mileage than the new tire. So count on 1 to 2 % loss n mileage depending on the wear on the old skins.
Lets do some ciphering... Pay attention now, there may be a quiz at the end.
New tires have say 12/32s and the wear bars changeout would be 3/32s which is a difference in radius of 9/32 or 0.3". Which gives a circumference difference of around (2*PI*R)or 2" less per rev.
A new 225/60/16 has a circumference of 83.6 inches.
radius =(60%225mm)+(1/2of16"rim*25.4mm)=338.2mm/25.4 or 13.31 inches * 2*PI =83.62" or 6.97 ft. per rev.
5280 ft per mile/6.97ft gets 757.74 revs per mile on a new 225/60/16
Now doing this for a worn down tire with a radius 0.3 inch less gets
13.00 inches" * 2*PI =81.64" or 6.8ft. per rev.
5280 ft per mile/6.8ft gets 776.09 revs per mile on a worn 225/60/16
Therefore, about an extra 19 revs/(counts to the odometer) on 757.7 is 19/757=.025 or 2.5% perceived extra distance on the odometer.
Hence, on a worn tire, the speedo reads 2.5% less than true, or when you think your cruising at 100 your really are going 97.5 and your mileage/odometer then comes in at 2.5% more than actual.
So if you calculate that your getting 30mpg base on the faulty odo. reading, you really are getting 97.5% of 30 or 29.25mpg. When you slap on the new "bigger" skins the odo is right, your calculations now come in at 29mpg and you "think" your getting less mileage.
If my math and logic is presented right? :confuse:
Of coarse, type of rubber, strength of sidewalls, tire pressure or /and rolling resistance etc. of the new sneakers can also wear down/ increase the mileage
I hope I got those #'s right.
Well my problems were with starting and stalling sometimes my car would't start right, would take a few times to start and sometimes it would stall while driving..
The solution to mine was a Crank Sensor. At first the computer wasn't reading right so and it was burnt out so they put new computer in and then the crank sensor came up.
so after that it has run fine..
send me an email bender1972@hotmail.com if u like