2004 Tahoe electrical problems.

sfwoosfwoo Member Posts: 3
in Chevrolet
Have '04 Tahoe w/ 21K miles. one day rear door and glass would not open, couldn't even hear the latch mechanism working. then realize the left turn signal was not working, thought maybe bulb was out, so turned on hazard lights, just left side not working, then both rear doors locking mechinism started acting up, would not lock and unlock. anyone with same problem? please help!!!
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  • bigd35bigd35 Member Posts: 5
    My driver's side rear door will not unlock. The lock mechanism had been squeaking a bit until it completely quit working.

    What was the result?
  • strailerstrailer Member Posts: 4
    Hello, It sounds like the computer needs a reboot, disconnect the battery for 3 hours and reconnect. Let me know if that works. :)
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    You have to take the inside door panel off, and inspect all the linkages. Utilize the door handles inside and outside while you watch to see how the mechanism works, and then energize the electrics to lock and unlock.
  • tahoefan04tahoefan04 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 chevy tahoe with 48K. Today the service 4 wheel drive light came on. I read the manual and it said to shut it off. Restart and see if it comes back. It came back and the red light came on. Yellow lights flash and then goes back to the red. Does anyone know if this it the switch on the dash or the Encoder motor sensor.
  • ngfinchngfinch Member Posts: 2
    the Chevy's are notorious for their push bottom 4x4 going out. It's almost always just the switch. Pull the front panel and put a new switch in and you should be good to go.
  • sfwoosfwoo Member Posts: 3
    2004 Tahoe w/ 27K Miles. This is an intermittent problem at first, now it seems like everyday. When i unlock the doors with remote or manually the 20 amp fuse will blow. It only blows when I unlock the rear doors (pressing the remote twice)
    Had the car brought in to dealer when still under warranty. they checked it out and only replaced the blown fuse ($100.00). Told to bring it back if it happens again. Now the vehicle is out of warranty. Is anyone out there having the same issues.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    How long is it, between when you had it in for warranty repair with no trouble found (but replace fuse), and the problem now. If reasonably short period, they will most likely cover the repair.

    Otherwise, if this was mine I'd try to determine whether the problem was in the locking/unlocking door solenoids (a defective solenoid), the wiring to the doors (like wires flexing in the door jamb shorting), the switch panel, or the control circuitry. Since it is failing pretty regularly, that should be easier to do....although a pain in that you'll have to take a bunch of doors apart.

    Opening the doors up and unplugging the solenoids will help eliminate them, or prove they are the problem. You can meter out the switches, to verify that they are internally shorting. If the wiring is shorting out, then it is most likely at the drivers door jamp, which is the door that gets the most opening and shutting on vehicles. If none of those prove to be the problem, then suspect the control circuitry itself.
  • joewitjoewit Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Tahoe with 58,000 miles on it and I have had to replace 3 fuel gauges that stopped operating. Fuel gauge is not operating again. Dealer assures me they were defective gauges. Dealer replaced gauge in May. It became inoperative in early November. Are there any service bulletins on this?
  • john_branchjohn_branch Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever get your four wheel drive fixed. I have had a similar problem and taken it to the dealer 4 times. They keep saying it is a software problem, fix the code and then a week later it is doing the same thing.

    Thanks

    John
  • mr_jmtmr_jmt Member Posts: 9
    Hi, I have a battery drain issue. Battery drains nightly. Had battery checked and it is OK (1.5 years old). Alternator is ok as well. Disconnected negative battery cable to check if alternator was drawing current when truck is off. Not the alternator. Checked all under hood fuses to see which ones draw current with vehicle off by checking amperage between negative battery cable and negative battery terminal. Here are my findings:

    1. 50A breaker LREC2 draws approx .082 amps
    2. 10A IP/DIC draws approx .435 amps
    3. 15A Radio draws approx 1.3 amps
    4. 15A Info draws approx .21 amps
    5. 30A Radio draws approx .64 amps
    6. 30A TREC draws .05 amps

    Approximately 0.143 amps being drawn with those 6 pulled. I did not bother to check the fuses on the driver side of the dash yet.

    I think the radio is the issue, but without knowing what these should draw, how can I confirm.

    Any help is greatly appreciated.
  • deborahshousedeborahshouse Member Posts: 1
    The abs , brake warning incicator lamps light up cruise control shuts off doors chime and accuate locks and loss of power has occurred after hitting bump on road . stopping and turning off the car and restart and it returns to normal. I have checked the battery ground by direct grounding. plese help ! thx deborah
  • bry4bry4 Member Posts: 1
    Mine is having the same issue. every so often mine will go through a few days of draining my battery over night, and then with out changing anything it goes back to working normally for sometimes months at a time and then back to this issue all over again

    and help or thoughts would be great
    thank you
  • fm289fm289 Member Posts: 1
    mr_jmt said:

    Hi, I have a battery drain issue. Battery drains nightly. Had battery checked and it is OK (1.5 years old). Alternator is ok as well. Disconnected negative battery cable to check if alternator was drawing current when truck is off. Not the alternator. Checked all under hood fuses to see which ones draw current with vehicle off by checking amperage between negative battery cable and negative battery terminal. Here are my findings:

    1. 50A breaker LREC2 draws approx .082 amps
    2. 10A IP/DIC draws approx .435 amps
    3. 15A Radio draws approx 1.3 amps
    4. 15A Info draws approx .21 amps
    5. 30A Radio draws approx .64 amps
    6. 30A TREC draws .05 amps

    Approximately 0.143 amps being drawn with those 6 pulled. I did not bother to check the fuses on the driver side of the dash yet.

    I think the radio is the issue, but without knowing what these should draw, how can I confirm.

    Any help is greatly appreciated.



    Did you find any solutions? Seems I'm having similar issues!!!

    Thanks for the help!!!
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