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Comments
I've always found the "Top gear acceleration" tests in magazines to be exercises in stupidity. If you drive a manual...and are worried about how it accelerates....then drop a gear. Being a sport-bike rider from years back....I have no issue dropping a gear or two for acceleration. My s2000 in 6th at 60 was horrible....quick drop to 4th (Which I would hold till 100 even) was an entirely different car..3rd just made more noise lol. The G auto in S mode is really fast to downshift...so...for my tastes....give me the super tall 7th....make the other 6 a useable spread of power...and I'll paddle down or let the computer do it for me when I come up next to a 335 lol. Just was racing with one a few weeks ago actually...friggin thing dumped a TON of unburned fuel when he dropped the hammer to take off from in front of me. Only did two runs..one with each in front and I would say it was a really even race. Drag race seems to be a different story...something to be said for the G's porkiness in that situation.
I understand your point with a manual transmission of downshifting when quick passing is required, but 2 things:
1. It is nice to have the option of not downshifting when you're just on the highway. My 335 accelerates quickly in 6th (faster than many cars that I have driven with their downshift). You really never need to go down to 4th to get out of the way. With my G35 coupe 6-speed, it was a bit lethargic in 6th (although with the sounds that car made - I loved shifting)
2. We are talking about an automatic transmission. If 7th gear doesn't make good power then the car will tend to hunt more in and out of 7th gear on the highway. Like I mentioned, if they would have went down to 2,500 rpm at 80 mph, then that would have been equal to 1,875 rpm at 60 mph. Slower moving traffic (50-65) means that the car is not making much power at that low an rpm which would lead to more hunting.
Although I admire the paddle shifters on the G, I would guess that most people who buy automatics will keep the car in AUTO 100% of the time. So, how the car drives in normal mode is important.
BTW, I brought my G35 coupe 6 speed and my 335 6 speed to the track and the 335 was between .7-1.0 sec faster depending on the run. I know the new G's make more power though.
I hope that an Infiniti dealership in my area gets a G37 sedan with a 6-speed so I can test drive it, especially now that I have had alot of wheel time behind the 335. I'm very interested to see how they compare in terms of steering feel, handling, noise level (my G35 coupe was a tire noise mess), shift feel, etc.
AFAIK, and I just checked nissannews.com, this tidbit has not yet been publicly released for the G37 Sedan.
Thus, we just do not know what the RPM at cruise will be, nor what the max MPH in each gear will be – and won’t know until the G37 Sedan’s final drive ratio with the seven speed automatic is known.
0 – 60 discussion is also largely speculation without knowing all the facts – as this ( and the quarter mile time \ speed ) is largely also dependent on that final drive ratio.
I will be surprised if Infiniti does not take this opportunity to move the final drive to something between 3.0 and 3.2:1.
( The G35 automatic has a 3.69:1 ratio. )
As I posted here a month or so ago, I doubt that Infiniti will retain the 3.69 – going ( at least ) to the 3.357 in the M45 and the 2009 FX35 RWD.
As someone else posted, combined with the taller ( numerically lower ) top gear ratio in the seven speed, the 3.357 would drop RPM at cruise by 16+%.
My guess \ hunch is that Infiniti will move to the 3.2:1 ( or less ) range – and the cruise RPM will drop by 20% - or more.
This would still result in better acceleration, I expect, since:
First gear ratio in the five speed =
3.84 times final drive of 3.69 = just over 14:1
First gear ratio in the new seven speed =
4.92 times ( a hypothetical ) final drive ratio of
3.0 = 14.7:1
3.2 = 15.7:1
I expect that we will know more – soon . . .
- Ray
Been wrong before . . .
My past 3 Sport Sedans ( and my current ride = Corvette ) have all had a manumatic function - activated either by paddles or the shift lever..
I drive nearly 100% in manual mode - and have in each of these cars - for the past 9 years . . .
And I expect that I would in the G37.
- Ray
Just 1 point on the curve....
G's have D, DS (Which does the rev match downshifts into turns and nearly INSTANT downshifts on abrupt throttle opening). S mode is kinda radical for daily driving as it hold gears even longer than D mode. Paddles are ALWAYS active....and a quick click will drop you in no time...then put you back into D once it reads the drama gone. PAddle in DS mode locks you into paddles.
I can't imagine they couldn't program the Gs trans to read steady throttle/speed 7th-gear and keep it in gear.
For the record...I'm at 3100 in 5th at 75....that is kinda high.
That IS350 Vs TL-S vs G Sport article showed the G coming to life over 100 MPH....most likely because the others were getting into their highway ratios and the G was just using up it's redline.
I was only basing my 0-60 thing on the fact the my traction control comes on VERY quickly...despite the LSD rear and the RE050's.
I look forward to driving the new one....lease is up in 18 months....as it looks now....I would buy this thing...I like it THAT much. Stillen rear diff will fix my highway MPGs and that's that lol
After doing units conversion (at this site: http://locost7.info/converter.php) the 3.7L engine with 7-speed AT has 326HP and 226ft-lbs@5200 rpm.
I suppose that doesn't mean that's how the US G37's will be configured, but...
(By copying and pasting text, you can get crude translations here: http://babelfish.yahoo.com/translate_txt)
The 2008 G37 Coupe has 270 @ 5200....
Sorry. Typo on my part. It's 266 not 226!
Edited to add:
Over at the NHTSA site, the new G37 sedan is listed at 5550 lbs, which is only a 53 pound increase over the '08.
Still, that doesn't amount to much of a speed boost, does it?
I wonder whether I should try to get an '08 at a discount rather than pay-up for the '09.
[ based on the 'deals' I have recently seen on '08s ]
and your dealer(s) have them in stock
the 08 is probably worth serious consideration.
If the 7-speed auto is of no particular interest -
same answer.
- Ray
Waiting for 'official' 2009 G37 Sedan specs - like final drive & EPA #s
I'm looking at the 7-spd AT (considerably below invoice).
I don't care about 1 extra mpg (my guess, of course).
I'd hold-off if the 0-60 time were to drop to 5-flat, but if it's only shaving a tenth or two, I don't care.
Perhaps, more importantly, would the 7-spd run quieter at 70 mph?
The '08 runs rather quietly as it is, at 63.x decibels. Would a 7-spd drop the noise-level a full decibel (my uneducated guess would be no)?
And worth every nickel you pay for it, IMHO.
RE – MPG:
My guess, as I have posted above, is that
The G37 Sedan w/A7 will post either 2 or 3 MPG higher
In both EPA highway # and in actual highway style cruising.
To me, 2 or 3 MPG means:
A – 10% or so less fuel expense in much of my driving.
B – 38 to 57 additional miles per tank \ range
C – Another small decrement in my personal carbon
and fossil fuel use. . .
I do understand that 2 or 3 MPG mean little to some people, even now.
RE - ‘a tenth or two’:
Speculation remains rampant regarding any difference in acceleration between the G35 Sedan w/A5 and the G37 Sedan w/A7.
It looks more & more to me like the final drive ratio, a deciding factor in acceleration, may not be known until actual, independent, instrumented tests are published.
[ sigh ]
Quicker is better – to me.
I have been somewhat ( ahem ) spoiled by driving over 30,000 miles in a rather quick car. [ Corvette ]
RE – quiet.
I have not driven a G37 Coupe.
My reading leads me to believe that the 3.7L is a somewhat more refined motor than the 3.5L.
This also will likely be somewhat effected by the final drive ratio chosen. The lower ( numerically ) the final drive, the lower the RPM at any given road speed in top gear.
I am personally more interested in the RPM than the noise level – as I expect that Infiniti will manage the noise well enough. I just happen to [ rather strongly, but irrationally ] prefer lower RPM in sustained highway driving at or above 70 MPH.
But that’s just me . . .
- Ray
Waiting.
2 MPG * 19 gal = 38 miles
3 MPG * 19 gal = 57 miles
[ 1 gal = ‘reserve’ ]
Even so, I'd sure like to know (as most of us would) what the specs will be for the U.S. model. I might take my chances and buy this weekend. My problem is I'm 6'5" and can only sit in a sedan without a moonroof, so there isn't much selection. Ie., I could wait a few more weeks, but who's to say the one or two cars in the lot I can sit in would still be there.
In summary, NOT much impact on the performanc eside:
0-60 in 5.2 seconds
MPG for auto is up 1-2 mpg
The big difference is in NVH and engine refinement.
http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/hot_lists/car_shopping/entry_luxury/2009_inf- initi_g37_sport_sedan_short_take_road_test
For my purposes the G37 isn't worth thousand's more... I think. ;-)
No assurance that the USA specs will be the same,
But the European web site now shows 3.357 for the A7.
- Ray
Still waiting . . .
Over a coffee, on a break -
A few ‘back of the envelope’ calculations suggest to me that, with a 3.36 final drive & the gearing of the new A7:
The ‘rate’ of acceleration to 60 will likely be noticeably quicker than in the G35.
But the 0-60 times may be only a tenth quicker – largely due to the requirement of another shift before 60. Looks like even pushing to the fuel cutoff ( if still 8,000 RPM ) would mean a 2-3 shift before 55 MPH.
The same goes for the quarter mile – where the top of third gear was previously right at 103 = very close to the terminal velocity I see reported in various quarter mile tests, the G37 A7 third gear looks to ‘reach’ only to around 85 MPH. Again, I expect that the aggressive gearing will result is quicker acceleration, but perhaps ( since requiring another shift – well before reaching the end of the quarter mile run ) not much difference in reported times.
These are based on roughly the same rolling diameter \ revs per mile on the 2009’s wheel \ tire combinations.
Speculation mode \\ OFF \\
We shall see.
Since C+D has released their ‘short take’, I presume that the press embargo has been lifted. And that means we ought to see an A7 test soon . . . ??
- Ray
[ Still ] ready for my test drive . . .
Edited to add:
Even though I barely have headroom in the moonroof-less G35, if the vehicle was hit from the passenger side, my head would go right into that hard-plastic handle. So, if I could get the seat lowered that would be nice, but I'd sure hate to have the job botched!
That show on TV in long island made a basketball player fit in like an SL or something. I'm sure it can be done. Even if it's expensive (Say....$500)....broken up over time that would be worth it no? Maybe the answer is in the seat itself and not the track? There is room under the seat...so I think the clearance would be there. I just think it would suck to have that restrict your options...esp in the day and age of of features being "Packaged" as they are.
Exactly!
As for the plastic handle on the side, I just realized the side-airbag should protect me, duh!
http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/hot_lists/car_shopping/entry_luxury/2009_inf- initi_g37_sport_sedan_short_take_road_test
Curiously, the additional power didn’t do a lot for the G37 at the test track, where we logged a 0-to-60-mph time of 5.2 seconds and a quarter-mile run of 13.8 seconds at 104 mph. Although quick, those digits lag 0.1 second each behind the best runs posted by its 3.5-liter predecessor (5.1 seconds and 13.7 at 104 mph).
So you see not much improvement.
Reason.
Curb weight could also be a bit of a factor, as the G37 rang in at 3703 pounds, 120 pounds more than the slimmest G35 Sport we had previously weighed.
However, granted the G35 is now outdated, its still ahead off the pack, the tech, the power, the looks, the reliability, the power all for a price less than the 335i (with no options and leatherette :P ) Good job Infiniti. Cant wait for you next G offering. :shades:
To those lucky enough to be driving the G37, congrats.
I expect ( based on what we know now )
a substantial drop in cruising RPM.
I calculate at 70, just under 2500 RPM -
vs roughly 3000 in a G35 A5...
That's interesting. When I test-drove a G35 I was surprised how quiet it was. Immediately after, I test drove a Genesis 3.6 over the same highway. The Ininiti seemed as quiet as the Genesis. I thought I was nuts. However, at least this road test, http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/Drives/FullTests/articleId=116681/pageId=10- 1742 , shows a decibel level of 63.4 @ 70mph for the Inifinity which is a tenth of a decibel lower than the results of a Genesis road test here: http://carzone36.wordpress.com/2009-hyundai-genesis/
(Both tests were performed by Edmunds.)
Some people are more or less sensitive to certain frequencies, for example.
I generally prefer to hear ‘pure’ exhaust sound – and prefer not to hear mechanical ‘thrash’ from the engine itself.
Some are more sensitive to wind noise, road \ tire noise, etc.
Also – I see the EPA ratings for the 2009 G37 Coupe are actually 1 MPG higher ( both City & Highway ) for the A7 vs the M6.
Interesting . . .
- Ray
Generally in favor of lower noise & higher MPG . . .
The A7 is, as mentioned, “geared more aggressively than even the six-speed manual gearbox.” And with the 3.36 final drive, more aggressively than the A5 also . . .
First, overall, in the A5 = 14.17:1
First in the A7 = 16.53:1.
Second A5 = 8.67:1
Second A7 = 10.72:1
Third A5 = 5.64:1
Third A7 = 6.85:1
Fourth A5 = 3.69:1 ( 1:1 )
Fourth A7 = 4.74:1 ( 1.41:1 )
Fifth A5 = 3.10
Fifth A7 = 3.36 ( 1:1 )
Sixth A7 = 2.89
Seventh A7 = 2.59
No idea who posted them – or on what forum.
But perhaps they will help, if the new G uses
basically the same seat mechanism(s) . . .??
NOTE - I do not have a G & have NOT tried this...
FWIW
Good luck:
Just this weekend, after being a cramped for a year, I figured out how to adjust the seat in my sedan. I'm 6'4 and have barely enough room but not enough to sit up straight and stretch my neck...
There are two approaches to doing this and all you need are some sturdy pliers...
First, I unbolted the seat altogether and tilted it forward to get a good look at the mechanism. There is almost NO WAY to get any lower custom rail, because that was my first thought. Further, you can't even really unplug the seat because of the way the wiring is attached to the cushion springs.
Second, if you raise the rear of the seat all the way up, you can see the jacking mechanism, but you have to know what you're looking for...
BUT, if you look at the rear inside of the driver's seat, the height adjustment motors actuate two large drive screws, one for front and one for rear, that raise/lower the respective end of the seat.
There are bump-stop nuts/washers on these drive screws that ARE adjustable!!!
They are placed on like regular nuts, but are mechanically crimped so they become fixed. But if you tilt the seat forward and use a good set of channel-lock pliers, you can break the nut loose and it will thread up and down the shaft.
Make sure you slide the friction washer and rubber grommet up out of the way first so you don't fracture them with the pliers. Then get a firm grip on the nut with the pliers (if you have to ask which nut...) and rotate it such that it travel towards the front of the car (twist towards the passenger side).
It takes some strength, and it helps to walk the shaft around by hitting the switch so you can adjust the pliers to grasp the flat surface on the nut. But it will turn and you do not have to force it.
Initially, I screwed it almost all the way down to the end of the shaft and got a good 1.5 more inches lower, but it was obviously not "landing" evenly at the lower limits of travel, so I had to adjust it back towards normal. I think I ended up with about .75 inches more head room which is all I needed. I just adjusted back until I was certain it was landing evenly and nothing was binding up.
I'm fairly confident there was a healthy margin of more room already designed into the seat jack, but was never calibrated appropriately at the factory. Nothing is in the way or getting crushed with the new setting, and even after adjusting the bump-stop, it is tight enough to stay stationary.
= = =
Well...I just took a 15 minute break, grabbed a locking set of pliers and a flashlight and now easily have .5-.75" more room for my noggin!! I can't believe how easy that was and now I feel like I'm sitting considerably lower in the seat.
The hardest part was just having to kink my neck a bit. Basically to reiterate our friend above all you have to do is put the seat as far up as possible to gain access, get the locking pliers locked around the far nut (towards the front of car) and toggle the rear up/down switch so it moves the pliers down, then rotate the pliers clockwise, toggle again, rotate clockwise, and so on until the nut has moved toward the front of the car maybe 1/4" away from the plate you see in his picture. Then you just rotate the other nut and rubber seal (closest to you) clockwise until it mates up with the 1st nut you moved with the pliers....and voila...you are done!! This was easier than my radar power wire install which took all of 15 minutes.
Welcome to comfort my tall friends!!
I didn't have to remove the seat at all....sounds like Fullcode was just going bonkers during his investigation of the seats.
7AT - MPH at max rpm 1st through 4th = 36,56,88,127
6MT - MPH at max rpm 1st through 4th = 43,70,101,129
That's some serious gear reduction. I owned a 6MT and would still get one anyway but this 7AT will undoubtedly be faster than the 6MT.
I would still buy a 6mt as that is my preference. The Edmunds article mentioned that the shifter and clutch feel improved. I am not holding my breath as it seems they say this every year. Would be nice though.
Those acceleration numbers are about what I was
expecting [ hoping for ] -
and combined with better fuel efficiency...
[ edit: Also,
interesting ( to me ) that these acceleration numbers
are virtually identical to the G8 GT numbers
published by R&T. ]
On my short list.
- Ray
Now time for my test drive...
Did anyone ever get to the bottom of the suspension thing? I drove an X before the S and swear it is more than just tires/wheels....but a few people on here (With X's of course) INSIST the suspension was the same. If I was closer to a dealer..I was going to go measure sway bars and look at struts...but too far for such a small answer.
God this car is ugly in red (Sorry to anyone with a red one....but it's a sedan)