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Lincoln LS Power door lock problem

rgnmstrrgnmstr Member Posts: 226
edited April 2014 in Lincoln
My driver's door power door lock has started to operate intermittently. It doesn't make any difference if you are using the remote or the rocker switch on the door. Has anyone else been thru this? Does anyone know what operates the locking mech? I've opened op the door panel and can hear a click when the system fails to work but I can't see what actually operates the lock when it does work. Thanks.

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    leadfoot4leadfoot4 Member Posts: 593
    Maybe we should bring this topic back to life...

    Late November, just about the time it got REALLY COLD, the passenger rear door's power lock/unlock function stopped working, from both the driver's switch, as well as the fob. Since it's been a really cold winter, and that door is rarely used, I've been living with the problem.

    A couple of days ago, it got considerably warmer, so I broke out the shop manual and took the door panel off, to see what I could determine. Working through the manual's diagnostic tree got me to the solution of, "Replace door lock actuator". I hit the "discount" FoMoCo part sites on the web, and although none list the part as generally available, I sent an inquiry to one of them and got back, $350-400, depending on whether or not the car has the "base" radio or the "Audiophile" system (???).

    It appears that the actuator is not sold seperately, it's part of the handle assembly. Anyone else have issues with theirs? Is the actuator availble seperately?

    TIA!!
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    rgnmstrrgnmstr Member Posts: 226
    I haven't had any luck fixing my power lock yet. I went to a dealer and couldn't even get a straight answer. They couldn't even find a part number. Then they told me I had to buy the entire power everything assembly for hundreds of dollars. The thing that works the luck plugs into the box they wanted to sell me. I'm pretty much fed up.
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    leadfoot4leadfoot4 Member Posts: 593
    Sometimes I wonder why I spend the money for the factory shop manual....In the "old days" the manuals had actual pictures of the parts/assemblies that were being discussed/repaired. Now they have these "cartoonish" CAD drawings, and a vague descriptive paragraph about the assembly process.....

    Anyway, it appears the online parts dealer I contacted mistook the "module" that's shown in the "cartoon", and quoted me a price for the stereo speaker assembly instead of the door lock actuator. The actuator, assuming it's defective, is $150, however, I'm going to try and remove the bad one I have and see if it's something like a little corrosion on the contacts or something simple.

    The only problem, winter temps returned to the area again, and I'm not as young and foolish as I used to be. In other words, it's too cold, and the problem not severe enough, to warrant me freezing my little buns off......
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    leadfoot4leadfoot4 Member Posts: 593
    After doing some research, the LS is the exclusive user of this particular door latch assembly. On many cars, the power lock actuator is a separate piece, however on the LS it's integral to the latch assembly.

    After trying some basic troubleshooting, my "fall back" position was to do what the shop manual said to do when the tests proved "negative", and that's replace the latch assembly. I went so far as to call one of the east coast's bigger internet parts suppliers for Ford parts, however they closed at 5PM EST, and I was too late. Just for grins, I did a "search", and found a used one on E-bay for $35, so I took a gamble.

    The gamble paid off, and the lock now works again.
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    rgnmstrrgnmstr Member Posts: 226
    Can you explain exactly what part you replaced? Was it the part that mounts inside the door behind the door jam and latch? That part connects via wiring to the big module behind the middle of the door trim.
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    leadfoot4leadfoot4 Member Posts: 593
    "Rgnmstr", I replaced what is referred to as the "Latch Assembly". In my case, it was on the rear door, but I'm not positive how it compares to the front door's internals.

    I removed the interior trim panel (screws in the door pull, under a cover; and a couple of screws at the bottom of the panel...the panel itself is held in place by "bullet headed" push pins...carefully but firmly, pull on the panel until they release), and water shield, which allowed access to the lock mechanism. I then removed the door handle from the outside of the door, by removing the two retaining nuts from inside the door (11 MM hex). Then release the actuator rod from the latch assembly by pinching the ears on the plastic retainer that secures the rod to the latch lever. Set aside the handle.

    Next remove the 3 Torx head screws from the door jamb that hold the latch assembly to the door, and also release any clips/clamps the hold the wiring/actuator cable to the door frame, then remove the latch assembly from inside the door. Disconnect the cable and wiring plug, and replace with a new part.

    Although it sounds complicated, it isn't all that bad. I had originally gone in to look for problems a few weeks ago, so I "went to school" on that trip. When I did the actual replacement the other day, it took me about 30-40 minutes, start to finish.
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    rgnmstrrgnmstr Member Posts: 226
    Thanks for the reply. That's the part that I figure is bad on my car since I can hear a clicking noise in the module but nothing happens at the latch. Dealer tells me that the latch assembly is not available by itself. He says I have to buy the entire window/door module which includes the latch assemble for something like $600+ I'm really getting tired of every little part on this car costing $250 or more.
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    leadfoot4leadfoot4 Member Posts: 593
    "Rgnmaster", the dealer is pulling your chain....big surprise! The latch mechanism is available by itself, and through one of the internet "discount" Ford parts departments, a brand new one should be around $125.

    I almost bought a new one myself, until I found the one on E-Bay. At that point, I decided if through some fluke my diagnosis was incorrect, I'd only be out $40 instead of $125.

    I don't know what this site's policy is, regarding the mention of persons/business that are known for sourcing parts like this, Otherwise, I'd readily tell you both the dealer that gave me the best price on the new latch, as well as the E-Bay seller who dismantles Lincolns, and sells the parts.

    I understand your frustrations about the cost of parts and labor for repairs. Unfortunately, the LS was never made in large volumes, and had a lot of parts that were unique to both it, and the S-Type Jaguar. My LS, although 9 years old, is a low mileage car, and has been pretty trouble free. However, 9 winters in the road salt infested northeast can play havoc with a car as electrically burdened as the LS is.

    For that reason, I'm currently negotiating a deal on a new car. If Ford was still making the LS, there's absolutely no doubt I'd be buying another, but since they stopped, I'm looking elsewhere.
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