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Before the valve had carbon deposit around the spring and was not moving well. Soaked with cleaner for 5 minutes and removed with plastic knife.
After disconnecting the battery and connecting again the check Engine light gone. check it before going for expensive alternatives.
Thanks
I've skimmed the postings on this and other sites. Seems it might be
"Idle Air Control Valve" (??) - needs replaced or cleaned - "on top of engine" (?) - where is it exactly? I can replace or clean myself if I knew where it was.
Ignition Switch - might be bad - where is this? in steering column? how difficult to replace?
Fuel Filter?
Any other ideas? without an OBD engine code (yet) I don't know how to pin point the problem, but would like to attempt to fix it with by replacing parts that are simple.
Any thoughts appreciated.
One cheap thing I did that was an overnight improvement - taking it to WalMart for an injector cleaning. My symptom was surging. As I'd drive, I could feel a pulse and a drop of power ever so slightly. Thinking it was either bad gas or injectors, the dealers want $180 - $200 for the injector service and WM does a similar thing albeit a different method. It cost $20 about 2 years ago and it may be a little more these days. Instead of tearing into the parts and getting high class expensive equip hooked up, they do a drip feed just like an IV in the hospital. The chemical flows through the injectors just fine though and they add a can of fuel treatment injector cleaner to the tank of gas and send you on your way. It was an overnight success in my case and for $20 you can't pass it up on the chance that it fixes a problem or just as a preventative maint item. Good luck !
I have a 2003 Tribute V6 and here is what is happening:
Around 1500 rpm(driving up a gradual incline makes this happen more) my engine wont accelerate anymore unless I floor it. It feels like it gets "Stuck". if I do not floor it my car will shake and stutter and eventually it feels like it shifts and the rpm's increase. The other thing that happens more frequently now then it used to when my engine "shakes" is once the shaking has subsided all of my gauges will zero out, go all the way to the right (eg. 120mps, 8000rpm, no gas ect ect) zero back out again and then return to the accurate readings. My check engine light IS NOT ON but it lights up when i turn my car on so I know that it works. Please help me someone, I need to get this fixed but it hasn't been able to be diagnosed correctly yet and I am very frustrated
Did you ever resolve your problem? I'm having that same issue right now but it resolves itself after 5 minutes of driving. No mechanic I bring it can duplicate the problem so every few weeks this happens and I've just had to live with it.
Thanks,
Ronn
I read on this forum that it could be the fuel pump, intake manifold gaskets, or the catalytic converter. what things can i look for to help determine which it is. i know it has to do with fuel system in some way.
HI ,
I have a 2004 Mazda tribute just had the transmission replaced and the rear main seal replaced and a block heater installed. Since i got it back from the shop it would not stay running in idle. It will drive fine but the die when in idle. Took it back they replaced the mass air flow censer , checked the air intake vavle , replaced a few vacuum hoses and i am still having the problem just not as bad. now it will stay running until after it has been driven for a lil while then once put in park it will die. it starts right back up and drives fine but still wont stay running in idle after being driven.... Any sugestions the shop is stumped and i NEED my vehichle fixed... Thank you
Same problem here on the stalling after starting. 2003 tribute 3.0. I took my MAF sensor off cleaned it with MAF cleaner. Starting perfect for the last 4 days. Worth a try, cheap and easy.
I hope you all can help me, this is driving me crazy.
I own a 2001 Tribute DX 4 cyl, Automatic
I turn the key hear the fuel pump run the vehicle starts and idles rough for 2-4 seconds and stalls
Have changed:Cam, Crank, TP Sensors and fuel pump
when i disconnect the IAC the vehicle will not start at all so i know the IAC is doing something
can someone provide me the fuel system diagram please help!