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Volvo S80 Fuel Maintenance and Repair

mickjoebillmickjoebill Member Posts: 6
edited September 2014 in Volvo
I love the S80 and this is my second.
Car leaks when it is being filled at the pump.
Leak comes from the top of the tank out of view from below the car.
Otherwise no leaks.
How do i remove the rear seat so I can access the removable cover in the floor?

Mickjoebill
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Comments

  • tmex12tmex12 Member Posts: 15
    I need some help with the following error codes before taking my 2001 S80 to the dealership. The codes are:

    P1181 (fuel delivery), P1171(rotor sensor) and P1550 (power steering pressure switch). Can someone advise what needs to be done and cost estimates. I have not had a good experience with my dealership, I'd like to have full information before going in.

    Thanks
    tmex12
  • tareqyounistareqyounis Member Posts: 1
    can you explain how you pulled the codes
  • bkj1bkj1 Member Posts: 1
    My car has been running erratic lately. I press the gas with no response. Simply turning off the car and restarting it seems to resolve the problem until the next time I start it. I took it to a mechanic who hooked up a device under the dash and got the following errors. 1550, 1603 & 0121. Any insights?

    Thanks
  • theexperttheexpert Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    This might be your lucky day and will likely save you lots of money, but you have to act fast. Volvo has a recall and extended the warranty for this problem it is likely that your care is having a "Throttle Problem" (which WILL get worst with time) this is a part that need to be replaced and it is currently is done for free. Just had it done on my S80 1999 and it runs like a new one now (kinda...;-), so hurry up and go to a Volvo authorized dealer and they will do the job for you as long as the car is under 10 years old and under 200,000 miles.

    Hope it will all go well good luck
  • theexperttheexpert Member Posts: 2
    Can anyone please tell me where I can find ALL the codes to the Volvo diagnostic codes?

    Thanks
  • JuaKaliJuaKali Member Posts: 2
    1. Remove seat bottom by pulling it up at the front edge-(two clips), and swinging it upwards.

    2. Remove sides of seat back-(closest to the doors) There are locking clips close to the bottom that need to be released. You have to pull open the lower portion of the side (about 6 inches from bottom from inner side with seat back folded down) to see the clips. Flashlight may be handy. You can use a screwdriver, or your fingers to release the clip that locks the side in place. Once released, pull upwards and remove. Repeat on other side.

    3. With seat backs folded down, you should see electical connectors on both ends (closest to doors). Disconnect these. There are two 14mm bolts on either end. Remove these. Starting with left hand side seat back (shorter), lift edge closest to the door slightly so that alignment tab clears hole, and pull seat towards outside. There is a hinge in the middle. The left seat back has a hole that fits over a rod (part of right seat back). Remove right seat back likewise.

    4. Remove any carpet or sound insulation, and you will see access port with four 10mm nuts on right side.

    ******

    I doubt his procedure will allow you to see source of a leak experienced during fueling. It will allow you access to the fuel pump and one of the two sending units.
  • mickjoebillmickjoebill Member Posts: 6
    Thanks!

    I assumed that Ide be able to see the filler pipe entry form this port.
    I'll do more investigation before removing the seat. From what you say it sounds like I'll have to drop the tank to see the problem?

    If i have to pull the tank out would it be a good idea to replace the fuel pump, car has done 86k kilos.

    A side note, does the bottom part of the rear seat simply pullup? I've given it a hefty/tug /pull/ jolt from the font edge but haven't managed to unclip it.
    I can prise the rear part of the bottom seat from under the backrest but cant get the front part to budge...

    cheers

    Mickjoebill
  • JuaKaliJuaKali Member Posts: 2
    The clips that hold the seat bottom in place are about a foot in from the edge (would be between your legs if seated) of the seat. If you lift the corner up and look (flash light) you should be able to see them. It takes a fair amount of force to disconnect them. Hold on to the seat on either side of the tabs (tab between) and yank straight up.

    You may have a crack or fracture on one of the lines leading in/out of the tank - the supply and return lines connect to the pump here. This is not uncommon. I would recommend opening the port and observing the connections with the engine running or while cycling the ignition switch on-off-on-off this activates the pump each time you switch on. Outright pump failure is not very common. I have come across one at 146K MILES. Mostly the plastic connections at the tank (part of pump) break. If this occurs, you have to replace the pump unit - this also comprises a fuel level sending unit. It is quite expensive about $ 400 at dealers + a few $ for a new o-ring gasket and screw ring if you have to destroy to remove - (cheaper than buying $100 tool). Dropping the tank is a lot harder. Be carefull, keep all flame sources away Volvo flambe has serious side effects.

    How much fuel is leaking?

    Best of luck.
  • mickjoebillmickjoebill Member Posts: 6
    Fuel only leaks when we are at the petrol pump filling up.
    When we stop filling the flow of petrol onto ground stops. It is a considerable amount about half as much as the amount when pouring a cup of coffee!

    Once port under seat is removes can we see the joint of fuel filler and tank? as it makes sense there is a break at this point

    thanks!!

    Mickjoebill
  • mickjoebillmickjoebill Member Posts: 6
    The rate of flow is 1/2 that of typical coffee or tea pot.

    Mickjoebill
  • mickjoebillmickjoebill Member Posts: 6
    OK removed the seat and inspection covers. Unfortunately can't see the fuel filler line from these vantage points.

    Next question, how is the fuel filler line attached to the tank?

    Which side of the car does the filler hose meet the tank?
    Looks like the tank has to come out to refit the hose?
    How many hours work for this, could a non volvo garage do it?
    I have a RHD vehicle.

    cheers

    Mickjoebill
  • mickjoebillmickjoebill Member Posts: 6
    Found the leak, it is in the joint of the filler hose and the tank.

    Mickjoebill
  • mauricehmauriceh Member Posts: 1
    Do I need an extra cooler fitted to the gearbox on my 2002 S80 D5 auto when towing a 1500kg
    caravan.
    Mo
  • ksk212ksk212 Member Posts: 1
    hi just had fault diagnosed on my volvo s80 d5 2005 model, the codes that came up were p1700, p1516 and p0700 can anyone tell me what these codes are and what they mean i have been having a few probs with auto gearbox it is great when cold but starts gerking when hot from start thank you karl
  • yappleyapple Member Posts: 3
    Error code: P0030 , H02S Bank #1 , Sensor #1, I beleive this to be one of the two front oxygen sensors , don't know if it is drivers side or pass. side , I don't know if I should replace both sensors being it has 99K ,Is it a easy Job? Dealer Cost $400 EA. , After Mrkt. $100 to $250 range , Check out junk yards? Do U use Hi-Temp Anti Sieze Lube when installing replacements.
  • peerlessbillpeerlessbill Member Posts: 1
    My CD player will not eject CD's and delivers a code "ERROR". It is an HU-801

    The previous radio/CD would not eject CD's either so I replace it with one (described above) from the Web. Same problem but with the Error code.

    Could this be something wrong with something besides the radio/CD? Can I do anything without going to a dealer??

    Thx
  • rbenachowskirbenachowski Member Posts: 1
    Hello did you ever get answers to these questions. I have an 2002 S80 with bank 2 sensor 1 showing probems. What model sensor did you buy for the front under the hood Bosch 17034? I have seen after market versions allot cheaper have you heard anything about them in your findings?
    LMK
    R
  • tmex12tmex12 Member Posts: 15
  • ksjksj Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2000 S80 with 55,000 miles. We recently replaced the rack and pinion. Spent over $5000 this month with Volvo. While driving I got stalled. Towed it in to Volvo. Volvo said I was out of gas and battery dead. Replaced battery. Ever since then, I've gotten stalled while driving. Did I ruin the fuel injector? Why can't Volvo figure this out? What do you think it would cost me?
  • ksjksj Member Posts: 6
    :mad: I have a 2000 S80 with 55,000 miles. We recently replaced the rack and pinion. Spent over $5000 this month with Volvo. While driving I got stalled. Towed it in to Volvo. Volvo said I was out of gas and battery dead. Replaced battery. Ever since then, I've gotten stalled while driving. Did I ruin the fuel injector? So far, Volvo has disconnected the fan, changed voltage regulator, took air out of steering unit, changed mass air flow. Why can't Volvo figure this out? What do you think it would cost me?
  • ksjksj Member Posts: 6
  • mecop186mecop186 Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 2000 Volvo S80 T-6 Turbo 2 years ago. It has all the "bells-n-whistles"; pwr. moonroof, in-dash CD changer, blah, blah, blah. And, in case I sond stupid, it's because I know very little about cars...

    Last winter, I got stuck in an icy driveway (I live in Maine). I tried and tried to get "n" stuck, to no avail. After trying for the better part of 2 hours, I was SO(!!!) pissed I got out of the car and slammed the door. No, I mean I SLAMMED the door! This is where a bad night got worse; as I exited the car, I threw the door open and, without looking back at the car, SLAMMED the door. I heard a "popping" sound. The sound happened just once and, right about the time my brain matter started shooting out of my ears, I turned and saw what the noise was; I truly believed I had shattered the window. Boy, was I wrong; glass was fine. What WAS NOT fine was the side-curtain AIR BAG!!! "This MUTHER%#*&ing car! (SLAAAAAMMMM) POP!" airbag debris, slowly falling like the snow...

    Last summer I discovered: It was surging and then hesitating, oil was leaking into the transmission; it no longer shifted properly (so, in order to drive it, I have had to use the transmission in "manual shift" mode), one of the turbo's is shot and, in December, it just stopped starting.

    So, calling upon a friend who knows more abot cars than I EVER will, he brought his handheld scanner (?), plugged it into the car and got the code that something called the "Camshaft position (CMP) Sensor" needed replacing. So, had the car towed to the mechanic ($275), ordered the part ($267.89 plus 7.5% tax), had the part installed (4 hours of labor @ $55.00 per hour = $220) and... drum roll, please.....!

    Still won't start. NOW I need a new computer ($1,200), plus the software ($135) and then I have to pay the dealership to INSTALL the software.

    I guess my question is this: while I love the car, is it worth it to put the new computer in?
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