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2005 Sienna ventilation never off

emkayemkay Member Posts: 2
edited June 2014 in Toyota
This may have been asked and answered, here, but I'm never sure what, exactly, to search for.

I bought a used 2005 Sienna XLE in October 2009. Is it normal that, even when my heat/ac fan is "off," it still blows air? If it was last set warm, it blows warm. If it was last set cool, it blows cool. But it's never OFF, completely. It only blows slightly, even if I last had it set high, so I'm getting the impression that Toyota assumed you'd never want it completely off (a dumb assumption, if they did) - but I *do* want it off. Am I missing some mystery control that shuts this all the way off?

thanks
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    wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    SOP.

    But there are two workarounds.

    Put the system in recirculate - NEVER to be done in cold climates

    Put the system in defrost/defog/demist. Does not shut off natural airflow due to forward vehicle motion but somewhat "baffles" it by forcing 180 degree reversal in flow direction.
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    typesixtypesix Member Posts: 321
    It's normal operation, you may be used to other vehicles where the outside air damper closes when the fan shuts off and there is no separate Recirc switch to close off outside air. like the Toyota version as I can shut off the fan on the highway if temps are moderate and just let the air flow in thru the vents and can still modulate the discharge temperature.
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    wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "..other vehicles..." "..damper closes.."

    In over 50 years of driving I don't think I have EVER encountered one of those.
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    emkayemkay Member Posts: 2
    wwest:

    >Put the system in recirculate - NEVER to be done in cold climates

    Define "cold," (North Georgia in January?) and why, please? What's the relationship between recirculate and cold air?

    Thank you!
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    wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    In recirculate mode there is very little cabin air "outflow" and so the cabin humidity will continually rise as a result of human metabolism, breathing, perspiration, etc, the more bodies the higher the Rh will climb.

    Cool or cold climate = cool or cold interior windshield surfaces = fogging.

    Regretably this all relates to dewpoint and mother nature is mostly in charge of that parameter. So it's a good idea to NEVER use recirculate when the primary HVAC mode is for heating, keeping the passenger cabin warmed.

    The new 2010 RX350's automatic climate control will not only prevent you from using recirculate "improperly" but will automatically switch the system into combined floor/windshield air outflow depending on outside climatic conditions. That will tend to keep the interior surface of the windshield warmed above dewpoint even with COLD airflow impinging on the exterior surface.
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    typesixtypesix Member Posts: 321
    Well, obviously, you haven't driven any recent American cars then. My ex-boss' Dodge Intrepid and Stratus both would shutoff the outside air damper when the fan was off. Both had manual systems.
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    wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Sorry, that just isn't believable these days when as a safety measure systems will not remain in recirculate mode with the A/C off.

    And...

    A manual HVAC that has a servomotor that automatically closes the fresh air inflow path when the blower is turned off.

    "Does NOT compute..!!""

    "..would shutoff the outside air damper.."

    The MANUAL system outside air damper, typically, has two positions, FRESH and RECIRCULATE. It might automatically move from recirculate to fresh if the blower is turned off, and more likely so, MUCH more likely so if the A/C is turned off. But it would be patently UNSAFE for it to completely close off the incoming fresh air flow.
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    typesixtypesix Member Posts: 321
    Yes, meant to say damper goes to recirc when fan is off, rest remains, believe what you want to believe, as always. Cars are not airtight as most people think.
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    wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    ".. damper goes to recirc.."

    I would more readily believe "..damper goes to fresh..".

    Cars do not need to be very airtight for rising cabin humidity to be a problem during coolish or cold climate(***) operations. So the default damper position should ALWAYS be FRESH.

    *** Climatic periods, basically, when the only usefulness for the A/C is for dehumification.
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