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Comments
Yes the GT is noisy. Bump noises are also magnified, and the body paint is crap. Also the 225/55R18 doesn’t help either. However I have diminished all these by doing the following: (1)-Increasing the 55 profile to 60. (2)- Also for the type of driving I do; a set of wheel and tyres 215/70R16 (Steel) is great. (3) Tire noise may be reduced by using tire grooves designed for summer seasons use.
Back pain because of long journeys may be reduced by finding a proper seat driving setting. I may say sometimes I have driven for more than 8-hours and I have never experienced back discomfort (I am 5.6”).
The GT has 2-small petrol tank underneath (rear left and right). The driver rear petrol tank is smashed (like an accordion) because of big stones hidden in mud layers on the road. However it is not broken which is a good overall car design.
I have also noted that the use of premium petrol or better has very good effects on the GT car performance, i.e. better mileage and better acceleration.
If you drive mainly on motorway (tarmac) at high speed and want less noise the GT may not be your overall best choice. However if the road noise is not a serious nuisance then the GT excels above any SUV for the price and technology.
So this just clips into the top of the door frame?
Do you have a manufacturer's link handy in case other folks (like potentially me) want to pursue one?
How much added wind noise does the rack create?
WHat's the load limit? IIRC the factory rack is a measly 75 pounds.
Lifetime fuel economy average is 21.1MPG. With gas prices trending up so much I went from midgrade to premium a few tanks ago as the cost difference as a percentage of overall cost has shrunk to under 5% (premium has less of a "premium" cost as overall prices rise while the regular-midgrade-premium price difference remains stable). It looks like there's enough of an economy improvement in premium that the added cost pays for itself with better MPG but I need more tanks to bear that out for sure. My most expensive tank to date was just over $57 (13.9 gallons of premium). The most I've ever added in one fillup was 14.3 gallons; not bad for the 15.8 gallon tank.
We're up to over 90 CDs on the hard drive and I keep a 4GB thumb drive permanently loaded with songs bought digitally.
The nav maps are getting out of date and don't reflect a couple of semi-recent highway interchange adds (one local, one out of state that I encountered). I asked Mitsu about an update and they said one was coming shortly. I did not ask if it included a general firmware upgrade as well; i.e. if any other new features were planned. I'm guessing not.
No recalls, no breakdowns, no unintended acceleration. Basically no drama.
I've got a K&N air filter to install & will do so soon. I use them not for the supposed added economy & power but because they're simply cheaper over the vehicle's life than buying a new air filter every 15K.
1) Yes, it clips & lock into the top door frame.
2) You can go to http://www.thule.com/en/US/FitGuide.aspx#StartApp - I got the Rapid Traverse Foot Pack (480R) with Outlander 2010 GT fit kit, Thule part#1409 (sold separately) and Aero Load Bars (RB53)
3) There is minimal to none wind noise w/ the Thule Aero Load Bars (model/part# RB53). The Aero Bars is the key equipment. The Regular load bar creates a lot of noise, although its $75 dollar less, per bar. When I said minimal to none, by test driving it from 35-80miles per hr, when the sun visor is open, I can hear little noise, if I raise the sunroof, I can hear medium noise, if the sunroof is totally open, i can hear a lot of noise. But if the sun visor/sunroof is close, I cant hear no noise even at the speed of 80miles per hour. Again, I really think the Aero Bars bar is the key equipment here and I think its worth paying $75 more per bar, just to avoid the noise.
4) The maximum load limit for the Thule: Aero Bar (pair) is 165lbs. But not sure if the Outlander Roof frame can handle such load weight.
Thanks
I no longer see a link to post pictures in CarSpace (not sure if it's buried or gone). I can email you pics of what it looks like if you send me an email address.
I'm not sure what that plastic cover on the lower right portion of the rear bumper is for but it isn't part of the kit.
It does look to be more or less directly under that crank access hatch, so it could be related. I'll RTFM later if I get some free time to see if it's mentioned anywhere.
The dealer did the install.
Pics have been sent. You'll notice a small bit of surface rust on the underside most likely due to the road salt used in winter. I'll be sanding that off & priming/re-painting it shortly.
You may also note that the top of the kit has a metal plate. That can be used to step up & access the roof.
The wiring harness connector is in the lower-right below the tubing.
The only downside is the default ball connector is S-shaped and rises up some. So if you leave it installed it interferes with lowering the lower part of the tailgate. So I leave it out.
BTW, inside the cargo area on the passenger side is the access hatch for the jack. There's extra space in there so I stowed a pair of gloves to use so I can keep clean if I ever have to change a tire. But there's so much room in there I also put in a self-retracting tow strap. I put the gloves on the strap's ends to keep them from clanking.
2 bike rack and surfboard rack in the middle for spring/summer/fall. Winter is another story
2021 Kia Soul LX 6-speed stick
"Oil Specs Have Changed"
Recommended Engine Oil 0W-20 Synthetic Oil
Provides the following benefits:
- Improved Fuel Economy
- Reduced Engine Wear and Enhanced Engine Life
- Easier Start Up in Cold Weather
- Reduced Vehicle Emissions
I understand from my service guy that Mitsubishi Synthetic is now being supplied as original equipment from the factory for 2011 models and that oil change intervals have been increased. Both Mitsubishi Synthetic and Mobil 1 were shown on the poster.
Anyone have more info on this?
As to using synthetic v. regular oil, with a change interval of 7500 miles/6 months on regular oil I see no need for the added expense of synthetic. Maybe once the car gets high mileage like 100K+ but not before. And if I do go synthetic I'll stick with the weight specified in the manual. That's basically what I did on the Galant I had before I got my Outlander.
WRT using lighter weight oil, that does seem to be the trend among manufacturers nowadays.
I'm still wrestling with Mitsubishi Canada to get them to "officially"give some leeway on their 3 month oil change interval "recommendation" for all Canadian owners!
Synthetic oil doesn’t have any type of waxes. If the car is parked for a very long time these waxes precipitate and prevent proper engine lubrication. I use synthetic oil because I may increase the time for an oil change, i.e. 12,500 miles instead of 7,500 miles.
We expect that the Outlander GT for year 2012 will offer the following:
1. Roof rail
2. One-touch folding 2nd row seats
3. HID headlamp with washers and auto-levelling
4. Adaptive front lighting system (AFS)
5. Rear parking sensors
The above features are already offered in Europe.
In Japan a roof rack kit is sold that is screwed into these holes and provides a configuration to install a roof box. The part number of this accessory is MZ532260 ($300 in Japan). If you do a Google search using this part number there are some interesting comments (of course in Japanese) about this accessory plus photos of the final arrangement of the kit. The maximum weight is around 50 kg (230 pounds) including weight of the kit. With the kit installed the maximum weight for your roof stuff may be 35 kg. It is a neat configuration and without those ugly clamps attached to each of the 4-doors. Thule Rapid Traverse Foot kit is bulky and plain. Furthermore the clamps themselves exercise a lot of pressure at the up edges of the doors which eventually will pull out the body paint on the areas that are touched.
I know that my Mitsubishi dealer has brought some stuff from Japan using a Mitsubishi office in LA. I understand if there are a lot of queries and some orders from GT owners in the US Mitsubishi America may decide to stockpile it in the USA
Furthermore, please take note that this type of roof rack kit are not suitable for unsealed roads (i.e. a rough road that has no hard surface). The whole setting may just fly away.
It will be a fact that the 2012 Outlander GT will come from factory with a “Plug-in Roof Carrier” which is just a foot base that rest on top of fix points on the vehicle. This type of roof carrier is not what we are normally used to see. The assembly will not have a “roof rail rack/carrier”. You may run your finger along the inboard edge of the rubber/soft plastic molding and locate the fixed points (2-points by vehicle side). Each foot base will screw on a hook (shaped like an extended “S”) that will enter the fixed point. One edge of the hook will have a bolt that will be fixed to the foot base and the other end will hook inside the fixed point. By squeezing/screwing this bolt the base foot will rest firmly on the top of the car roof. This type of assemblage departs from the Roof rack that uses door clamp as the Thule 480R Rapid Traverse Foot Pack installed by a forum member.
You may order accessory “Roof Rack Crossbar” ($260) that will be offered with the 2012 GT that will fit on the Plug-in Roof Carrier that will come with the vehicle imported from Japan by MMNA.
The trouble I see with this way of solving the problem of a lack of a “Roof Rail Rack” in the GT is that the Plug-in Roof Carrier will carry the “Thule” badge because it appears that MMNA has done a deal with Thule to implement this roof rack in the USA. Disassembling this Plug-in Roof Carrier is relatively easy; which is perhaps the main reason for MMNA to install this style of roof rack instead of the normal one. Those snow, ice and camping lovers may be happy with this arrangement for outdoor activities/events because the Roof Carrier can be taken off when the assemblage is not in use and by doing that improving the performance of the GT and perhaps saving gas expenses.
Another problem I see with a Thule-in Plug Carrier is that the concept of aerodynamic of the assemblage and it may be sorted better by other rack firms rather than Thule. A few other manufacturers of Roof Carriers have a “Wind Tunnel” where roof crossbars are tested, It has been demonstrated that, for example, ‘Flush Crossbar” option is aerodynamically better (Less noise) than a “Through” Crossbar option. Equally a squared crossbar is noisier than a rounded crossbar.
Manufacturer of roof racks and crossbar usually sell Roof Rack Kit that incorporates the Foot Pack + the Crossbar. Prices vary ($300-$400).
Edmunds has presented the Features & Spec of the 2012 Outlander GT. From there it can be ascertained that the 2012 GT will be almost the same as the 2010 / 2011 GT with few exceptions. There are few extra packages and accessories on offer. Also the XLS Outlander name has been replaced by GT (2WD).
The 2012 GT will come from factory with a Roof Carrier (Thule) and according to Edmunds also a Self-Levelling headlight (my 2010 GT has one but it is manual). Equally the 2012 GT accessories include Roof Rack Cross Bar, LED illumination package, exterior package (i.e. larger rear spoiler & GT side sill Graphics); accessory rear park assist sensors, interior packages (i.e. aluminum knob & brake grip).
I still think the Outlander GT is good value for money. In summary the 2012 Outlander GT incorporates a roof rail, accessory roof rack cross bar, and accessory rear park assist sensors.
Members should query about the Roof Carrier (Thule) (i.e. steel or aluminum) as well as shape of Cross Bar (i.e. squared or rounded, steal or aluminum). Apparently the Roof Carrier may easily be disassembled but this must be confirmed.
IMO the convenience of the hitch mount outweighs any extra costs over a roof rack. No worries about using parking garages/drive-thrus, easier to load/unload. My wife would simply not be able to use a roof rack; she lacks the strength & height to heft a bike that high.
I'd think that mounting the bikes on the rear would be better for fuel economy as well since roof racks are going to really mess up the car's Cd.
I also picked up a tow strap last year so if I have to pull anyone out of a snowbank in winter I have a convenient place to hook it up withough having to crawl under the car. I keep the strap & a pair of gloves stowed in the cargo area on the right-hand side in the access hatch that stores the jack.
Although it is not immediately apparent a town hitch takes away about 2 inches of the Outlander ground clearance (i.e. 8.5 inches without a town hitch). A clearance of 6.5 inches degrades the SUV/Crossover capability of the Outlander out tarmac.
Btw, your outie looks great! Hows the sunroof deflector like? I have the window in-channel deflectors and it has been very usefull.
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As it was said in this forum the Outlander 2010 (late) and Outlander 2011 have accommodation for the installation of a roof rack kit accessory (MZ314455). This kit includes the base + the crossbar (aerobar) at a price of $300.00. This kit has the Mitsubishi badge/logo and it was sold for Outlanders (e.g. GT) with roof accommodation (i.e. sockets).
What in reality is the meaning of “Plug-In Thule Roof Carrier Accommodation”? Does it mean just the sockets on the roof of the car or the sockets + a Thule base that plugs into these sockets + roof rack crossbar? According to the information I have, it appears that the term “Plug-in Thule Roof Carrier Accommodation” encompasses just the roof rack base made by Thule which will plug-in into the sockets that come with the vehicle from Japan. The assemblage doesn’t come with a roof rack crossbar; therefore MNNA offers an accessory “Accessory Roof Rack Cross Bar” at a price of $250.
Why MMNA decided to use the services of Thule is not clear at the moment because there is a Mitsubishi Roof Rack Kit on offer, and indeed it was utilized to provide the GT with a roof rack + crossbar configuration. The plausible reason could be that MMNA is being paid to advertise the Thule brand. The roof rack crossbar will also be Thule.
In summary the Mitsubishi Roof Rack Kit (MZ314455) at a price of $300 will be replaced by a Thule base + a Thule roof rack kit cross bar aero (Option at a price $250). It appears that every GT will come with a Thule roof rack base. If you want to have roof rack base + crossbar + Mitsubishi badge you will need to disassemble the Thule roof rack base from the 2012 GT (if it comes with one) and replaced it by the Mitsubishi kit (MZ314455) at a price of $300.
The 2011 Mitsubishi Outlander Accessory Catalogue announces the following:
Roof Rack Kit-aerobar (For vehicles with factory roof rails) MZ314015
Roof Rack Kit-square bar (For vehicles with factory roof rails) MZ314013
Roof Rack Kit (For vehicles with roof accommodation, XLS and GT) MZ314455
I have received an email from your dealership where he indicates that part# MZ314455 ($300) can be accommodated into the 2012 Outlander GT roof (i.e. accommodation sockets (from factory) + roof rack base (Thule or Mitsubishi) + roof rack crossbar (Thule or Mitsubishi)). The part# MZ314455 encompasses the roof rack base (Mitsubishi) + roof rack crossbar (Mitsubishi).
The Outlander 2012 GT as well as the late 2011 GT has plug roof carrier accommodation. What is the meaning of “Plug-in Thule roof carrier accommodation”? Does it mean that the 2012 GT will have just roof sockets where a Thule roof carrier product may be installed? Or will the 2012 GT come from factory with a Thule roof carrier base already installed (without roof rack cross bar)?
The confusion arises because the 2012 GT has an accessory “Accessory Roof Rack Cross Bar” at a price of $250 which may imply that the 2012 GT will come with a roof rack base made by Thule.
I will much appreciate it if you could clarify my uncertainty.
So having a roof rack makes more sense in my case. I can rack mountain bikes, sup board, surfboards, snowboards, and skis.
Here's a day that I went surfing and mountain biking on same day. As you can see the only way Hitch rack will for me is... I will have both...roof rack for boards and hitch rack for bikes.
Anyway, I'm not saying roof racks are bad. They're certainly the best option for skis. But in general racks are an alternative that doesn't work well for my family.
My hitch doesn't. I just measured with my GT on level concrete (my garage) and below the tube is 11" of clearance & below the side beam on the hitch is 10.5". It comes just slightly below the spare tire.
That said, it does extend out the rear of the vehicle a few inches so if you're rock crawling or doing other serious off-roading the rear overhang is a few inches longer.
I have the OEM hitch, part # MZ313809. You can see it some here: http://mitsupartsworld.com/145-mitsubishi-outlander-trailer-hitch-towing-kit.htm- l (If you use the curvy ball mount then the lower tailgate won't open fully.)
Please watch the above TV program in your laptop and we can tell you that our GT did all what these two (English) people did on the road. The GT managed to prevail over road’s hairpin curves and condition of roads similar to what you may see on the TV program. Gelatinous mud and clay covered roads, trails with big potholes, soft and deep gravel roads, snow, ice, deep flooding tracks, and heavy fog, you name it, all was sorted by our Outlander GT. The amount of punishment this car has undergone (sometimes at low gear for more than 5-hours) is amazing. The result of all this punishment are: chipped windscreen, two-big scratches and indentation on the side of the driver front and rear (product of collision with motorcycle taxis in Peru), broken driver mirror, broken fog lights (made deliberately by vandals), one of the petrol tanks squashed but not leaking, numerous scratches in the cargo area, indented exhaust pipes, and the engine compartment full of dry mud everywhere.
In 2010 we took our Outlander to Chile and from there we make our way to the south of Chile where roads are hardly driveable; from there we entered Argentina (non tarmac) and went down to the very bottom of the continent (Ushuaia-Argentina). We returned up to Peru and crossed the Atacama Desert in Chile at more than 15K feet. Here was the first time we noted the GT engine was struggling to climb at speed. In Peru we took our GT from Trujillo on the coast to Pucallpa in the jungle (3K miles return) with the sheer topography Andes in the middle. We saw complete sections of road washed away by the Mantaro River and the provisional mudded emergency road had to be passed one car at a time. We also visited Ecuador and reached a village where people live above the 100-years. It is a geriatric village and there is even a research institute to find out why people live so long in this place. I wonder why I saw many elderly Americans there. We visited Tarapoto in Peru and we drove many miles of uncharted roads just to witnesses a few very high waterfalls in the region.
My next adventure will be the West and Eastern Europe. I will ship my 2012 GT to Europe next year. My maxim is: “money has only meaning if it helps you to reach your dearest dreams before you drop dead”
The 4th oil change will occur tomorrow and Mitsu emailed me a "Happy anniversary" free oil change coupon.
A couple of days ago the TPMS went off, signaling that the colder weather around here has had the anticipated effect on air pressure. This happened last year as well so I guess it'll be an annual tradition. Which is fine since I basically never check the tire pressure on my own any more.
A few weeks back it did throw a "P0" error code. Basically a misfire but the cylinder wasn't specified. Given the timing & lack of specific cylinder, the dealer said it was likely due to the weather combined with the changeover to winter blend gas. It hasn't happened again so I'm agreeing and calling it random chance.
There have been no other problems or issues to report. Tires, battery, cabin filter, etc. are all original.
Lifetime MPG is 21.2. It hauls all the cargo I can come up with; space has never been a problem. Comfort is good. The navi + Rockford Fosgate continue to be error-free. Everything just works as expected.
1- Protection package ($345)
2- LED illumination package ($380)
3- Interior sport package ($250)
4- Rear parking assist sensors ($335)
5- All weather floor mats (4) ($95)
6- Body side moldings ($110)
I did not order the
7- Touring package ($2,900)
Leather can be a nuisance. It needs permanent care and deforms easily with continuous use, the stitches are not firm and easily loosen with continuous use..
Rockford is not useful for me because I am not in the music league. I am not a music lover.
Very rarely I have used the sun roof in my previous outlander although that is not to say that I have never used it. I also think that a hole in the roof will weaken the physical structure of the car.
8- Navigation with rear view camera ($2,000)
It can be of great help in USA & Canada but outside these 2-countries the usefulness is very limited. I found to my surprise that a Garmin GPS is very much cheaper and powerful like the Mitsubishi stuff, especially if you adventure outside the USA & Canada. The annoying thing is that the rear camera attached at the rear gets dusty very soon and it becomes useless without a permanent cleaning with a water spray. The camera did not prevent me, while reversing, from to hitting a wall painted green the first 12 inches from the ground which I confused as being just normal grass. I am hoping that rear sensors will prevent me to hit any walls painted green at the base.
9- Entertainment package ($1695)
Kids at the back should enjoy the scenery, landscape and the countryside while travelling instead of taking a piece of their room into the adventure.
10- Towing package ($395)
I have deliberated and thought a lot about this option but I have opted to leave it out because I am not a farmer and because the car I am buying is a GT. I may order at a later stage but at this moment I do not see when I would use it.
11- Roof rack crossbar ($295)
This option has also needed a lot of thinking but I have opted to leave it out because I may order it later on when the need arises. At the moment I do not see a need for it. Fortunately the GT comes with the facilities to attach a roof box once the crossbar is in place.
Anyway, I'm wondering if even though we don't have the pre-existing holes can it be modified by drilling into it or not? I already have the Yakima landing pads and the control arms. I just followed what the Yakima website said.:(
Any help regarding to this dilemma would greatly be appreciated.
The next step that I just need to consider is how to take off the plastic rain gutter trim piece to easily work on the mounting point modification.