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Comments
I wish I had an X right now - we're actually getting some snow here in Kentucky (albeit only a couple of inches)!
Min
You are correct that the X has a part-time 4WD system with both high and low range (unlike some of the "cute 'utes" that do not have 4lo). You the driver decide when to engage 4wd and if so, hi or lo. Being a control freak, I appreciate this.
I believe that the LSD on the X works by means of a series of clutch packs in the rear differential. When there is excessive rear wheel spin on one side, the LSD clutches engage and send more power to the wheel that is NOT spinning. Without LSD, all the power would continue to go to the spinning wheel, hence you find yourself stuck. This system is not a guarantee, because I believe that if one rear wheel loses traction COMPLETELY, the LSD will not kick in. That's why 4wd is also good because you still have power going to the front axle and can hopefully pull yourself out.
I do remember another car that use to "jump" forward when placed in gear.
The phrase "I'm Audi 5000" comes to mind.
If the information is too much to post, please either post the link to the website or e-mail me the information at mcina@netzero.net.
Thanks.
But I have notice recently that the brake and gas are a little too close. Depending on what boots I'm wearing at the time, I seem to hit both pedals at the same time.
Unclemartybob: You mention you had both feet on the brake pedal.. the pedal isn't that wide, so maybe you were partly on the gas. My truck is manual, so I'm guess the pedals are the same size as the auto.
If you have LSD - both rear wheels drive, if not, then only 1 wheel drives in the back.
1. Consumer Complaints
2. Year 2000
3. Nissan Truck
4. Xterra
5. leave blank and press submit
You will see the first of several consumer complaints about acceleration without foot on pedal, while stopped, etc. Make sure to follow the steps or you will end up in no-mans-land. Hope this is of help. Cheryl
I also read an article somewhere, sometime ago that explained the 4wd system in the X and I'm pretty sure that what I mentioned above is what they said it was. I may be missing something though...
Thanks
When you're in 4wd in the Xterra though, both AXLES are locked together and have to turn at the same speed because the X doesn't have a center diff. On slippery or loose surfaces, the tires can skid enough to compensate for any difference in speed between the axles as you corner. If you're on a dry road in 4wd, its much harder to skid the tires so the mechanical parts are stressed and could be damaged. The hubs themselves are not "locked" together per se.
This is why if you lose all traction at one front and one rear tire in 4wd, you can be completely stuck because without the LSD or another device, all available power goes to the spinning tire (where you don't need it.) This is why hardcore offroaders install front and rear lockers.
In low traction situations, in a sense, 2wd is sometimes only 1 (rear) wheel drive, and 4wd may become 2wd with one front and one rear driven.
Unless the is a difference in "names", driving lights are equivilant to highbeams, and should be treated as such. They are not extra normal headlights. The aiming process is the same for aiming your highbeams, and that is most likely why you are having trouble lowering them. If you do lower them, you are defeating their purpose. If you want extra "short" light, you should have gone with fogs. In any case, auxilairy lighting should be left for the dark highway and out of the city limits.
The only way to properly aim lights is on a brick wall in a dark parking lot. I might be off with the distance, but mark where your headlights hit the wall at 6', back up 12' and aim fogs below this mark, highbeams slightly or on this mark.
xcanuk, when I bought the Hellas, the box said "fog lights", but they sure look like driving lights to me. They make the X's high beams seem weak in comparison even though they're only 55w bulbs. In any case, I've decided to reroute the wiring to the high beams and use them with the high beams only. Thanks for your help.
The front and rear differentials allow the left and right sides to turn at different rates in turns across the same axle, but without a center diff the aggregate front/rear difference in rotation cannot be dissipated (the overall distance travelled by the front wheels will be more than the overall distance travelled by the rears). This is where you need to be on a loose surface, to allow this difference to work its way out of the system by having one of the tires scrub it off by turning a little faster or slower than it otherwise would. If it can't get out, the stress builds up and something will break.
The LSD has been explained pretty well. Just remember it is not "the" solution, it will only do so much before a true locking diff would be the real answer.
Brent
Thanks for the rubber spacer info though.
I've hooked up a wide variety of lights, but always connected them separate and independent. The one advantage to getting the most effective fill of light. This way, I could run fogs, normal headlights, and driving lights and get a nice overlapping pattern on the road.
Lockers would be nice because then you would really have 4wd but they're costly and they have some drawbacks of their own in ordinary, on-road driving.
Good Luck...
i have come to these conclusions:
1.not a leaf stuck in the vent- turned up full blast several times to be sure.
2. sounds like a loose bracket or something
3. only happens when the truck is in motion
4. used to go away when the truck 'warmed up' but now its more frequent.
its not a big bother b/c i cant remember how long it lasts. i usually forget about it once i get going. i do notice it when i first drive...maybe the passenger airbag bracket or duct or something? wire tapping at a bolt, bolt tapping at a duct? i dont know...
Brent
I also started noticing the rattle mentioned in #123 - mine started after i got off the highway - sounds like cruise control might be the correct diagnosis - thanks.
Nissan has a new Little SUV called the X-Trail. I started a discussion about it, #3414, but nobody has responded!
Anyway, if you like the Xterra, I'm sure you'll like this vehicle. Head over to that discussion to see pictures.
Hope you are all enjoying your X's.
I wonder if anyone would like an Xterra XL?
Same basic style az the current one but built on the loncer wheelbase as the Crew Cab?
I've never seen one but it would be nicer to have a bit more room
That is the only thing I miss about my old Trooper. It had a LOT more cargo room behind the back seats and the X still feels cramped in comparison.
MMM.. higher roof line.. I just barely make it into the garage as it is... but imagine the rack.. the rack of all racks.. 3 kayaks for our queen, 5 mountain bikes... and a cab full of bungie cords..
if you look at your x, you can see where they narrowed the body quite a bit at the b pillar. the rear tailgate should be as wide as the frontier tailgate, but it isnt. also, why use the stnd. wheelbase instead of the king cab wheelbase? again, simple marketing. you cant make the cost argument on this b/c it really has nothing to do with additional cost.
you could say it makes the x more sporty and gives it a jaunty feel- but i would rather have the room! guess we'll have to wait for the redesign...
Just bought the 2001 xe w/3pak and really am impressed. I changed the tires to Dunlop "Rover" w/ white lettering and it looks good. I've had those tires on my 84 Chev. 4x4 after reading an article about them yrs ago. I've already noticed the steering more responsive and going over the RR Tracks less bump.They were always good in rain/snow/mud, no Hydro Planning.The dealer had them exchanged for me, for $20.00 a tire, a good deal I thought.Not spaming or pushing these tires , just thought I'd pass it on.
One thing I found was I had a rattle on the Pass. side. I found a screw loose on the crossmember clamp of the roof rack (drivers side), it transmitted to the pass. side.Tightened screw, no more rattle (Mon./Fri. built) .Screw driver was in the kit where the tire tools are (neat)under cargo mat.
Nice forum here and glad to have found all you folks..........CJ
p.s What the heck do they mean by targeted for the younger folk. I'm 63 and think I can live with this thing.
BTW the Pathfinder is 1.3 in wider and 4.7 in longer than the X.
Since you are new, check all the screws to the rack, pull the ones for the deflector and the basket, grease 'em and re-install, they have a tendency to bind over time.
Brent
I too have been doing much research on the X and decided on an XE with the 3 pack, 4WD and manual transmission. The problem is I haven't been able to find one within 500 miles!! Of course I have the misfortune of living in Meridian, MS right now, but I went to 4 dealers within 150 miles of me and they could only come up with a 2000 in Missouri!! I need to go through a dealer though because I have a trade in. ANy suggestions short of ordering one from the factory with will take 90 days? Thanks!
if they made an x the same dimensions as the pathfinder it wouldnt look as 'sporty'- a bit more heavier. BUT that isnt a bad thing- again, i know it was just a marketing decision. ever see a frontier crew cab w/ a snugtop cover? cut 4 inches off the rear and that should be the correct size of the xterra. wide, big cargo area... oh, well. the pseudo-discovery 2 look is cool too. proportionally, the x should be the same as the old, boxy pathy. same doors & windscreen. its just that b-pillar back, they tapered everything inward.
btw, i really like the pathfinder now! somehow the xterra made the pathfinder cool again. i hope they restyle the pathy with the xterra hump- like a signature nissan styling element. i would buy it. cant wait for the full size,v-8 nissan pu!
anyone have their R/C pull to the right on crowned carpeting ? at least it doesn't have a sunroof to snap crackle and pop.
Xcanuk: put that Christmas toy back under the tree!