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Honda Civic Basic Maintenance Questions
Is it easy to get at the oil filter on '06? Any other tips or insight on changing oil?
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The Honda filters require a Honda tool ($20) to remove them. It's like a large shallow socket that fits over the end of the filter, and ever so slightly different (smaller inside diameter) than the 'common' ones you can buy at the parts store.
The ones available at parts stores won't grip a Honda filter :mad: , so I removed my original Honda filter with a large pair of channel-lock pliers. I replaced it with a NAPA Gold (same as WIX) filter, the 'common' filter wrench ($4) removes it.
Here's a link to a site that will answer all your oil change questions and more, do search on 'Honda' in the various forums when you get there to narrow things down:Bob Is The Oil Guy
You just have to push hard and then turn and it has enough bite to remove it. It worked fine.
The black plastic fitler remover I used was from walmart and works on a 05 corolla LE filter.
The end cap comes off and you slide out the old blade (wiping edge) and then slide the new one in, so it shouldn't be too expensive.
I just had a mechanic take a look at that area and he found nothing wrong, even though he also heard the noise. He suggested that I take the car to a Honda dealer and have them check it out. Any suggestions?
When inspecting the timing belt, you're not going to be able to really see when it's "ready to go", because the most structurally important parts of the belt are hidden within it. You do want to look for cracks, peeling, flaking, hardening, oil contamination, or uneven wear.
Regardless of the number of miles you put on the car, if you haven't replaced the timing belt by your car's 8th birthday, you're running on borrowed time. It's also a good idea to replace your water pump at the same time.
Most shops, dealership-based or otherwise, will still "encourage" you to change your timing belt at 60k mile intervals, because ... well ... because they make a lot of money on it.
Does it require a special tool to reach and unscrew it?
I just spent over 780.00 on trying to get my check engine light to go out on my subj Civic. The final answer is "you have a bad computer" and to replace will cost 980.00. Well, if they ran diagnostics on it in the first place to correct a temperature Hi/Lo sensor and a transmission part (which makes the car run excellent now) how can that be. I found one on e-bay with 40K miles on it, but the numbers do not match up.
I own a car made in Japan, with a JHMED VIN...
it ststates on the computer:
37820-PM5-A550
601-139748
8 B
with a manufacture date of 87-12-24
the computer for auction says...
37820-P2E-A72
260-221546
LJ
will it be compatable? Cost for the computer is less than 100.00. Is this something I can just swap out myself?
I bought this car new in 1988, it has over 178,000 miles, it drove me to 5 ships and 5 shore stations and will be featured in my retirement ceremony after I get to 25 yrs in the Navy. Everyone hates it but I loove it. It is my baby blue car!
Happy thanksgiving!
Kevin, Senior Chief, Unitied States Navy
Jenn :confuse: :confuse:
I have had a civic before 1990 hatchback (still going strong with 200K)and it has had only the timing belt replaced (400 or so) and the radiator.
Love Hondas...they are reliable.
My question, since this is my first Honda Car, does it have a timing belt or timing chain? The manual does not state either.
HTH
No, it isn't hard, but it can take a bit of time and can be messy. Disposing of the old fluid is also a consideration, some kinds of older fluids is poisonous to animals and is considered hazardous waste (newer fluids are much safer).
A typical "drain and refill" is just draining as much as you can via the petcock at the bottom of radiator, or by disconnecting the big hose at the bottom of the radiator. When it is thru draining, you refill thru the radiator cap until full, then fill the overflow bottle to help remove air bubbles after that.
This assumes you are using a fluid compatible with what is already in there (all aren't) since this method doesn't really "flush" all the old stuff out. But unless your fluid is really old and bad, a drain and refill is usually sufficient.
For a week or so keep and eye on the level in the overflow bottle, adding some new fluid as air is worked out of the system.
Of course you'll want to take it to the dealer or your trusted mechanic to properly diagnose the problem, but I am 90% sure that is what is wrong since you are describing the same symptoms my car was experiencing.
This is starting to sound like a common problem with this generation Civic as people start getting around the 100k mark.
On most cars the fan comes one when a sensor "opens". If you can locate that sensor (often near the thermostat), unplug it and the fan should come on. If not, well, the fan or the relay, if it has one, is bad.
A bad head gasket usually shows up as oil in the antifreeze, your antifreeze will have brownish streaks in it.
However, I must agree with kenlw in that you should try some simple things yourself first before taking it somewhere especially if you have a service manual to look into some simple things. I am praying for you that it is not a head gasket because this will run you a lot of money to get that fixed ($600-$900).
The error code, will either point to a device or a functional area that is causing the problem.
Did they then reset the error code, and have you checked to make sure your gas cap is on tight.
If they reset the light, and it has stayed off then I'd just continue to watch it. If they reset the light, and it came back on, you probably do have something wrong that a mechanic will have to look at. You could also take a look around the charcoal canister in the engine compartment, to see if any hoses are noticeably hanging off or cracked/split.
I have a 2002 Civic EX. I am wondering what's the official replace schedule for the following items.
* Replace Air Cleaner Element
* Replace Transmission Fluid
* Replace Break Fluid
* Replace Engine Coolant
I have heard different stories so want to know a firm answer, and if you could include cost of replacing the items, that would be great.
-Lawrence
In any case, this is almost totally and (literally) an unwarranteed statement "the chain is considered to be "good for the life of the engine". "
If the time line for "life of the engine" is 150,000 then yes, it is not likely to break. But if you are trending for over 200,000 to 400,000, you might wish to inquire the cost of chain replacement. My guess is it would be far higher than the fiber belt it is designed to replace.