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Chevrolet Impala: Problems & Solutions
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Airbag light - Mine has come on a couple of times (2000 base 3.8L engine); I think the first time I took it in, they said they had to replace part of the wiring connected to the airbag (which I think I paid for, but I forget the amount). The second time they wanted to replace the entire side airbag (seems like they wanted about $400-500 to do this). Since I was having transmission trouble at the time, I opted to pass on repairing the side airbag, and got the tranny fixed. However, when I picked up the car, the airbag light was off, and it hasn't come back on since.
Which brings up an interesting thought...if they "reset" the light, shouldn't it have come on again by now (this was a couple of months ago)? If they didn't fix anything, the light should still be on, shouldn't it? So either the light isn't working (which would have to have been done by the dealer, since it was working when I took it in), or else there's not a problem. Or if it is a problem, it's something intermittent maybe?
I own a 01 imp with the 3400 engine. Here are my problems. My air bag light is staying on all the time. I think the passlock in the ignition is going bad. Sometimes the car won't start but when we wait 10 minutes it will start up. How can I scan the car and find out what is causing the problem. The dealer ship wants $100 dollars to tell me what is wrong. Can an obd II scanner tell me anything? Does anyone know of any TSB's for this problem.
So not more than a week later I noticed the clunking had returned leading me to believe they misdiagnosed the problem in the first place thereby costing me a lot of $$$. So my question to this forum is (1.) Has anyone with the ISS problem had any issues with their Tie Rods and (2.) I kept the old Tie-Rods so is there a way to inspect them, outside of the vehicle, and determine whether or not they really needed to be replaced?
I'm sick of bending over for these Dealers. They're SUPPOSED to be aware of TSB's and common problems with our vehicles and fix them accordingly. For me, this doesn't seem to be the case and I can't afford to put in a new ISS, that from the sounds of it, I'm going to have to replace before long anyway. What are we supposed to do, keep replacing the ISS everytime it starts clunking? What happens if we don't? Is this a safety issue and if so, isn't Chevrolet liable to issue a recall?
I seem to remember other owners having tie rods replaced too (and someone else here can probably tell you from experience about that too).
But don't waste money replacing it when the replacement is the same design.
Re: the brake/tie-rod problem, I don't know if this car applies. I've always hated Eagle tires and replaced them with Michelin X-Ones (which I highly recommend for this car. They're the best ride I've had in looooong time) right after I bought it (16k). After that the car was a dream to drive until this damn clunking. I just hope the new tie-rods and some greese will take care of business. If not, I'm buying a truck. This is ridiculous.
Mahalo
Disconnect the battery.
Then you need to remove the dashboard under the column, and then remove the bolts supporting the column and then the electrical connection and the bolt in the ISS clamp.
Then slide the column out. There is no reason to remove the shaft itself, although I did that that because I thought I would be buying a new shaft.
Pack the open end (facing you) full of a high quality heat resistant grease.
Plug the open end with a cork or robber plug. Then work the joint back and forth until the lubricant works its way into the splines (about 15 strokes, the shaft will move about 1/16 of an inch each way.)
Bolt it back together.
No fuss, no real muss and total cost of about $1. I can't see paying anyone to do it for you.
Regards & good luck,
Mike
Can anyone help with a known fix or diagnosis? I want to avoid the notorious "cannot duplicate" at the dealer and the waste of $ that goes along with it. Thanks.
"An occasional problem with this vehicle is Ignition Lock Cylinder. Failure of the Ignition Lock Cylinder could cause the vehicle to not start with a theft system problem."
You just had an unfortunate break, I'm sorry you had to encounter this. I just hope you don't think all of those Chevy's out there are like that cause they aren't. I had a Honda Accord in 1981 and it gave me 3 pleasurable years of minor repairs AND GREAT GAS MILEAGE. I just traded my 98 Ford Ranger and all I ever had to do to that truck was put gas and keep the oil changed in it. I hope you the best and hope maybe you'll find luck later in a Chevy. One suggestion. ALWAYS, WHEN BUYING USED, SPEND $50 TO $75 AND HAVE THE CAR CHECKED OUT BEFORE BUYING, I'VE BEEN DOING THIS SINCE THE 70'S AND I HAVEN'T HAD MANY LEMONS IN MY LIFE. Good luck and God Bless you.
My guess is a poor connection/ground or bad fuel level sensor. I have a Dyna-Scan tool but it appears it can't pick up the fuel level input. What is confusing is that there is no tripped DTC codes. I assume if the unit is defective that a code would be triggered (maybe P0462?). Since it doesn't trigger a code, it acts as if the low indication is a normal signal. The PCM accepts it as such. Any assistance would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance. PS. It's on a 2000 LS
I left the motor running and exited the car closing the door. I then heard the locks engage and upon checking I found that all 4 doors had locked. Fortunately I had my spare key with me.
Rodger-
My brake rotors warped pretty bad too. I replaced all four with raybestos heavy duty ones and all new lifetime rated pads. 17k miles later, they are still fine.
I have yet to replace the intake gasket, but it needs to be done sooner or later. Again, my local dealer is familiar with this problem and said it is common to the 3.8.
My window switch for the drivers window acted up as well. It happened on a sunday and no store had the part that day. An ebay search turned up many used for sale however. I took the harness connector off of the back of mine, but off the alignment guide and installed 180 degrees reversed. the windows now work as follows:
the l/f switch works the r/r window.
the r/f switch works the l/r window, in reverse
the l/r switch works the r/f window, in reverse
the r/r switch works the l/f window.
this gets confusing for a day or two, but it beats not getting the window back up on a cold day.
My impala also has and odd habit of blowing the license plate lights. All the rest have yet to burn out, but they do regularly. Other than these mostly minor annoyances, it is one of the best cars I have owned. The ride, handling, mileage and performance are all quite good. Am looking forward to getting an SS in a year or two.
47,000 miles the rotors had to be turned again. Have 75,000 and am surprised I am not buying new rotors now.
Friend has a 2000 and they have replaced rotors 4 times in 104,000 miles.
Some have said the metal needs to be "aged". If the rotors were left out in a field, they would be ok later! (ROTFL at this one)
Chevy dealer (different one) said Chevy had a fix that involved putting grease on some part behind the rotors.
Several other places have all said the Impala has a problem with rotors, it is well documented and Chevy won't do anything about it.
I personally think the wheels are too open and when driving in wet weather, and applying the brakes for a stop from 55 -60, the wheels are letting water in on the rotors which are red hot and the rotors are warping. I vote for the wheels being a bad design. It doesn't appear to be a problem with the material of the rotors and different brans seem to yield different results.
Am trying to decide which Honda or Toyota I will trade it in one.
Since replacing the old set, it has been like night and day. After burnessing the rotors it stops w/o vibration straight and true. This is the way they should work. My rotors are also cross-drilled and slotted to help lessened fade and shed heat. If you go this route, make sure that the caliper bolts and lug nuts are torqued to spec., 137lbs and 100lbs respectively.
I also had the driver's window switch go out - I ended up buying some jumper wires from Radio Shack and connecting the passenger side switch to the driver's door connector to get the window up, then removed the switch entirely until I got the replacement part (I bought a new one; figuring the used ones would probably develop the same problem - but sooner than a brand new unit). Wish I'd thought about turning the switch 180-degrees, though.
Someone posted a question about spark plugs on the regular Impala page...I saw your comment about Bosch plugs (which I've used before with no problems); I've got no allegiance to any one brand, but would be interested to know your thoughts on a "good" brand.
Although this can be considered anecdotal evidence, there's a plethora of it. In my part time auto repair business I have to service my customers' cars right the first time around. I don't get paid to do it over, and if there's anything I've learned after decades in this business, it's that your reputation as good as the last job you sent out the door. I can't take a chance on using aftermarket parts which might perform as well as OEM parts when OEM will do exactly what the design engineers intended. They tend to cost more, but it's a matter of value received for dollars spent, not the number on the bottom line of the invoice.
My advice, use OEM tuneup parts.
1. Purchased in June 2001. First year all was okay.
2. Second year the front passenger brake locked up. It was still under warranty so it was fixed.
3. Then shortly before warranty expired in 3rd year the same brake locked up again. This time there was smoke coming from the wheel and it had to be towed to dealer.
4. In the 3rd year and at 44,000 miles the drivers side window wouldn't go up. Dealer charged about $170.00 to fix
5. July 2004 with 52K miles the transmission goes out. $3,300 to replace with rebuilt by dealer
6. The week after I get it back from fixing the transmission the gas gauge doesn't operate. Always reads full tank when it is empty. Took it back to dealer and they tell me the fuel modulator is shot and want $700. I say NO WAY. I set my mileage meter and when I hit 230-240 miles I know it is time to fill up. I have been told that eventually I should expect the fuel pump to go out.
7. Oct 04 has a whining sound when I accelerate. Take it into dealer thinking it was the brake again. Charges for diagnostic $80 and tells me the brakes are fine.
8. Nov 04 Still sounding bad and getting worse. Making left turns starts the whining. Now having hard starts. Take it into dealer and get told that the power steering is gone and they want $600 more.
58,000 miles and this thing has sucked more money than the IRS. I want to dump it but I still owe another year on it. I am at the mercy of the dealer who is showing no mercy. My only salvation is to warn everyone DON'T BY A CHEVY IMPALA! I also tell people here in Indiana not to use this dealer either. I am not asking for perfection and I am reasonable and expect things to go wrong, but what I have gone through with this car is beyond reasonable.
2001-2004 Buick Regal
2001-2004 Cadillac Seville -- with RPO JL4 (Control Active Brake)
1997-2004 Chevrolet Cavalier
2000-2004 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo
1997-2004 Pontiac Sunfire
2000-2004 Pontiac Bonneville
2003-2004 Pontiac Grand Prix
Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from the front of the vehicle during a turning maneuver. This condition may also be felt through the steering wheel when the vehicle is stationary and the wheel is rotated from steering stop to steering stop.
Cause
The clunk noise may be caused by a stick-slip condition in the intermediate shaft. An interaction with the steering system creates a vibration that travels up the steering column to the steering wheel.
Correction
DO THIS
Replace Intermediate Steering Shaft.
A new intermediate steering shaft has been released to address the clunk noise.
Important
Engineering changes have been made to the Service Parts available through SPO. The Service Parts for the vehicles listed in this bulletin will no longer require lubrication of the Intermediate Steering Shaft.
Install a new shaft following the Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement procedure in the Steering Wheel and Column sub-section of the Service Manual.
Parts Information
Part Number Description
10367811 Shaft -- Intermediate Steering -- Bonneville / Seville
10377680 Shaft -- Intermediate Steering -- Cavalier / Sunfire
10376430 Shaft -- Steering Gear -- Impala
10376429 Shaft -- Steering Gear -- Monte Carlo / Regal
10376428 Shaft -- Steering Gear -- Grand Prix
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
E7700 Shaft, Steering Intermediate -- Replace
Use Published Labor Time
What do I do???? I've got the feeling glass guy feels this is a "design issue" and yet I know if I now go to dealer they will say not there problem because window has been replaced. Should I try another mechanic?? Has anyone else ever had this problem?
The reason I ask this is because rear defroster was repaired several times by dealer - they said could not replace because it may cause future problems. Now unfortunately, the front glass was replaced instead of being repaired and I'm afraid I will have continual problems. Am I?
Moisture because of leak causes problems in clearing glass on sides of vehicle now as well. Should I be looking for a new vehicle because I will always have problems now???
I'ld appreciate any input, as a woman I always feel at a loss when trying to deal with any auto repair. Thanks.
Now I have a water leak in front floorboard. I felt was result of replacing front windshield. Body shop and glass repair shop say this is a design flaw of chevy. They've cleaned debris/line which collects leaves/debris, also added sticky tape to deflect water - no luck. I'm going to try repair shop that does my service/oil changes this week. Beginning to get disgusted with my chevy - wondering if I should be thinking of replacing.
Have you had any other issues?
Not sure what to do.