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Chevrolet Impala: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • dollangeldollangel Member Posts: 7
    I too have the same problem and have to wait the 10 minutes for it to reset itself. I haven't had it looked at but it your car is still under warranty take it in asap. Your warranty will cover it. I do not have a warranty any longer so let me know what you find out and how much it would have cost you.
  • dollangeldollangel Member Posts: 7
    Get it back to the dealer. You are covered under the manufacture warranty. Everyone here under 100,000 miles can always purchase and extended warranty at any time. I suggest everyone should!
  • kyaathecatlordkyaathecatlord Member Posts: 2
    I recently had an oil change and a fluid checkup done on my 2001 impala ls. They stated the coolant was low so they topped it off. Then yesterday, after running the car idle with the a/c on for about 20 minutes in a parking lot, I drove it home and found a puddle beneath the car and the coolant apparently "boiling" in the overflow tank.

    Could they have overfilled the resevoir and would this be normal behaviour?

    Thanks!
  • robilnrobiln Member Posts: 2
    I own a 2002 Impala LS. We brought the car in to be serviced in Nov 2002, the transmission was slipping, they fixed the problem because it was under warranty at 14,000 miles. We have also replaced the rotors because of hot spots, same problem, vibrations when breaking. This we p aided for! Now at just under 49,000 miles the transmission is is slipping again. We are still waiting to see what it will cost us, Will keep posted
  • robilnrobiln Member Posts: 2
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    I think it's possible they could have overfilled the tank, and once it got up to operating speed it might have forced some of the excess coolant out...I'd keep an eye on it and as long as the coolant level stabilizes in the "normal" range on the reservoir I think you're fine.

    Of course, if the coolant is leaking out around the intake manifold, that's another story!!
  • sportymonksportymonk Member Posts: 258
    Another possibility is that there is a small hole in the radiator. If so, it is possible for the water to be pushed out of the hole under pressure and when the engine cools, air will be sucked back into the radiator. At that point you could be low on coolant but the recovery bag will still be full. You should always check the radiator itself occasionally and not rely on just looking at the coolant recovery bag.
  • kwhittumkwhittum Member Posts: 12
    I would strongly recommend from experience to get your car to a dealer soon (within two weeks) before the GM service bulletin expires. There is a known problem if you read this board with leaky coolent fluid. GM will fix it, but you need to ask! I believe the program ends in early July.
  • txguytxguy Member Posts: 57
    I looked at previous posts on this but didn't find out if anyone actually found the problem. My fuel gauge started showing full all the time, except for one or two times when it showed totally empty... neither accurate. I use the trip meter right now to estimate fill-ups.

    I just had the front wheel hubs replaced and wonder if there is some interaction going on with the BCM.

    Oh and just fyi - original rotors (some vibration but not bad) :shades and pads, no tranny problems and 26-29mpg. :P
  • sportymonksportymonk Member Posts: 258
    130K and still on the original brake rotors AND pads! Look Out folks, this guy don't use brakes! You must live on the interstate or are very lucky.

    The fuel gage problem sounds like the float is gone bad.
  • hchu1hchu1 Member Posts: 17
    I had this same problem with my 2000 LS, I presumed it was the fuel sender unit going bad and had purchased the sensor. But before installing it I decided to try some fuel injection cleaner, suspecting that there maybe some sludge binding the float. After one bottle, problem solved! I can't say this will fix it for you. I personally think I was lucky. If it works, great! If not, I have a fuel sender unit looking for a new home. :)
  • dazed10dazed10 Member Posts: 4
    MY SON BOUGHT A 2000 CHEVY IMPALA FROM A DEALER, YOU PUT THE KEY IN THE IGNITION AND THE CAR WONT START. TURN THE BLINKER ON AND IT STARTS, THE DEALER TOLD HIM THIS WAS A CHILD SAFETY FEATURE. DOES ANYONE KNOW ANY THING ABOUT THIS?????? THE CAR IS UNDER WARRANTY AND WE NEED HELLLLPPPPPPP!!!!!!!!
  • 02impalals02impalals Member Posts: 19
    I would take that car back to the dealer where you got it from and tell him that you are looking for ocean front property in arizona.

    Seriouslly. I would take that car back, get your refund and take your business somewhere else. let your friends know not to go their too. The car doesnt have any "chilld" safety feature like that. If you search these and other forums you will find simiilar issues,but with various solutions. Someone probably was trying to add something to the electrical an could have did some creative wiring or there could be some other issues. Fof the $$$ you spend even on a used car, i wouldnt take any crap from a dealer and i wounldnt put up with any car with issues right off the bat.

    Get your money back and do some research on used cars before you buy one. There are numerous books on used cars and known issues/recalls. It doesnt mean your going to have all of those problems, but it will give yoiu an idea on what to expect.
  • frank24frank24 Member Posts: 1
    2002 Impala - When the car has been running on a very hot day and is shut off there is a 50/50 chance it will not immediatley re-start. If allowed to cool for several hours it will start and run fine. The Impala was in the shop this past week for 4 days. They replaced the BCM and we thought it was fine. I spent over 5 hours at a Plaza on the Ohio turnpike on a 97 degree day a day ago. The car cooled for approximately 6 hours and started; I had no more problems in returning home - I did not shut the car off until I got home; when I got home the car started fine when hot. This problem has been going on for over a year. The car has been in the shop at least 4 times to correct the problem. It always occurs on a hot day. The engine turns over and is not getting fuel; my first thought was the security system malfunction then replacing the BCM module. AAA repairman said the fuel pump is freezing when it gets hot and has to cool. Is this possible? You don't want to drive this car.
  • terenceterence Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 impala with approximately 102150 miles. Just a few days ago I've noticed that my Trac Off and Brake indicator lights stay on at all times. I read the manual and it said that if the brakes get hot both will stay on until the brakes cool down. Has anyone else run into this problem? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • kwhittumkwhittum Member Posts: 12
    I read your post regarding the fuel gauge not working. I recently had my BCM module replace. I had never had problems with fuel gauge. This past week as luck would have it my gauge started bouncing all over from full to empty. It now stays on full. I too zero my trip odometer after every fill-up, but it would be nice to have a working gauge. Did you get your gauge fixed and if so what did they do and how much did it cost?
  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    Try new spark plugs and wires to help alleviate the rough idle.
    Try a code reader to see if any sensors are inoperative. (Autozone will do it for free if you have one in your area)
    As far as the transmission, you can probably change the tranny fluid and filter, it is probably due if it was'nt done before. If that doesn't help you may have to go to a tranny shop or dealer to diagnose and fix problem.
  • txguytxguy Member Posts: 57
    It is still malfunctioning with the exact symptoms as yours. I'm going to try the fuel system cleaner as mentioned in another post, just to see what happens.
  • txguytxguy Member Posts: 57
    It is possible this is an after market security switch. They sometimes route it through the turn signal, a power window switch or the headlight dimmer switch to create an additional theft deterrent. You can't start the car unless you input the correct combination.
  • txguytxguy Member Posts: 57
    You are correct... I drive 110 miles a day, about 95 are tollway or freeway with little or no traffic. I pick up the tollroad about a 1/4 mile from the house and don't touch the brakes again for nearly an hour.
  • dilllydillly Member Posts: 2
    I just got my 2005 Impala and really like it. Except for the lumbar support which digs into my lower back even at the lowest setting. Can I somehow remove it or reduce it even more?
  • spider717spider717 Member Posts: 106
    I have a 2001 Impala. I took it in about a month ago because the service traction system light was on. They replaced something or other and I had it for about a week when the check engine light went on. The throttle was WAY out of wack, 2500 RPM standing idle, in drive the car would "drive" itself with no gas pedal pressure applied. They said they fixed the problem. I pick up the car yesterday, and driving out of the parking lot I can feel the car "pulling" itself along. I made it to the end of the dealership parking lot and the check engine light went back on. I took it right back and am waiting to hear from them again. My question is this. Is there anything I can get GM to do take care of this. I'm going on my honeymoon in a few weeks and will need my car. I'm startin to get nervous that it won't be fixed by then.

    I browsed through some TSB's but didn't see anything relating to my problem.

    Thanks in advance for ANY information that ANYONE can give me. I'm at a complete los as to what I should do.
  • hscouthscout Member Posts: 1
    Were is the link to the manual. I'm trying to locate the fan speed control resistors.
  • kyaathecatlordkyaathecatlord Member Posts: 2
    Just an update.

    My garage checked out the thermostat, water pump and searched for leaks. When they took a thermostat gun to the radiator, they found it to be clogged. I replaced the radiator and its all better, for now....
  • 4plus3vette4plus3vette Member Posts: 5
    Hello, I had this problem with my Impala. I fixed it myself, but I would recommend anyone take it to the dealer to get fixed since you will be opening up the top of the fuel tank which could be extremely dangerous if it every got ignited.

    The details of how I fixed the problem are found on
    www.impalahq.com/HowTo/GasTankSender.html

    ImpalaHQ is a personal website from a gentleman named Nathan who owns an Impala LS. He started the site so Impala owners could have a place to share ideas. I have found it very helpful.

    Basically, there are little metal fingers that press up against little metal contacts as the float goes up and down. For my car, the fingers actually wore off and I had to replace the fuel sender switch assembly. The part cost about $90 (I think, anyway). If you had to replace the whole sending unit, it would cost closer to $300.

    The labor involved for a first timer was probably two hours - that includes me figuring out where to start and how to get to the sending unit (there is a little access door in the truck under the carpet - just rear of the back seat).

    I hope that helps,

    Jim
  • 4plus3vette4plus3vette Member Posts: 5
    I am 99% sure that it is the fan resistor that is your problem. So when you find it and replace it, you will be all set.

    The blower motor and resistor are both at the toes of your front seat passenger. If you go up under the dash on the passenger side, there is a insulator panel that you have to remove (I think all you have to do is press on a couple of clips and then the panel should be able to just be pulled out) and then you will see the blower motor. Forward of that (toward the firewall) you will see a big connector (which plugs into the resistor), disconnect that and then you have to remove the three small fasteners that hold the resistor in place. I hope you are limber because getting those little fasteners out requires you to bend your back in directions that you didn't know it would bend.
    (If you can, only remove the rear fastener and LOOSEN the forward two. Those two are very tricky to get to with the carpet mat squished up there. The forward two holes in the resistor are actually slots, so once the rear one is removed and the front two have been loosened, you will probably be able to slide the resistor rearward to get it out from under the front fasteners and then pull the resistor straight down. - This could save your back a bit)

    Once out, buy A BRAND NEW REPLACEMENT resistor from the dealer - or you could buy one first, but don't buy used or try to fix it. Upon examination of the resistor, you will immediately see the problem - some of the soldiered circuits (the two thinnest ones in your case) will be broken. I tried to soldier a wire in place and then re-seal the circuit board. That lasted for several months, but ultimately had to be replace as it broke again.

    GM (or Chevy) has redesigned the resistor to include actual resistors. I lost the low speed in my Impala and Monte Carlo. Both have now been replaced with the new, redesigned resistor and I have had no problems.

    I hope this helps,

    Jim
  • 4plus3vette4plus3vette Member Posts: 5
    I meant solder, not soldier. Sorry.
  • slug612slug612 Member Posts: 2
    :confuse: I have a 2001 Impala w/ 3.4L I had my light come on about a month ago. I had it scanned on a computer and it come up with a Low Bank to Sensor 1. I replaced the #1 sensor upstream from the Cat. It hasnt been running funny or anything really, except within the last couple of days I have had alot of moisture build up on the inside of the windshield. Its been really humid here so I dont know if that has anything to do with the moisture build up? I was just wondering if this sounds like a similar problem you have heard of with this car?

    Thank You
  • emonteemonte Member Posts: 4
    I have had the same problem with my impala. Although it doesn't just happen in parking lots - it happens while in traffic (while waiting for lights to turn green) . What is even worse is that it has at times restarted itself at 60+mph. This has been ongoing for a month now. It's very random.

    I am also looking for resolution to this issue.

    2nd issue is a whirring sound in the engine - followed by a hard "shifting" from 1st -2nd (even though it's an automatic). Any suggestions?? :mad:
  • emonteemonte Member Posts: 4
    Just checked back and found this response - thank you.

    Full tune up has been done. Problems still exist - getting worse. I found TSB's that seemed related - but of course no resolution for the TSB. Code reader had returned 2 different codes at two different reads.

    I am now also experiencing the gas guage problems listed throughout the site. Interesting to have a full tank of gas after a trip from Va. Beach to DC.

    Thanks for the info - but I think I am stuck taking her in for a check.
  • kwhittumkwhittum Member Posts: 12
    Fan Blower Update. First thanks for the detailed reply, unfortunately I'm leaving on vacation for a few days and having only blower speed 3 or higher won't work. I went to the dealer this AM and $131.55 later ( less than an hour) I'm back in business. $41.81 for resistor, and one hour labor @$80/ hour. Although it probably won't do any good I'm going to call the GM customer Assistance line 1-800-222-1020 and share my displeasure. Mind you GM already replace my BCM modular, fixed the In-take gasket leak, however less then a month later I'm having the blower resistor problem and my fuel level sensor is not working. The estimated cost to fix the fuel gauge level sensor is over $400.

    Rochester, NY
  • crdcrd Member Posts: 1
    I changed the rotors twice on my 2002. The second time I went with Autozone pads rather than the ceramic dealer pads that don't seem to have worn at all. I am hoping I can just wear out cheap pads without cooking the rotors with fancy ceramic pads. This will be a lot cheaper than buying rotors.
  • happyfellerhappyfeller Member Posts: 6
    I have a 1997 Grad Prix. I have replaced the fan resistor at least 4 times and have 167,000 miles on the car. It is not a reliable part.
  • simonswusimonswu Member Posts: 5
    My 2001 Impala (base, 40K) recently developed a kind of whistling/spraying noise in the front when accelerating. Can hear the sound ONLY when pressing on the gas to gain speed (even a slight press on the gas after stop). I also noticed that the gas mileage is worse than before.

    Can't hear the noise when running in a steady speed even on highways.

    Took it to a couple of mechanics. One said it's normal. The other cleaned up the throttle body, but the noise is still there, the gas mileage got no improvement. Both told me there is no vaccum leak.

    Any advice is appreciated.
  • 02impala102impala1 Member Posts: 2
    2002 IMPALA PURCHASED BACK IN 12/23/03 JUST ABOUT 2 WEEKS AGO THE SAME PROBLEM HAPPENED TO MY VEHICLE EVERYTHING ALSE WILL TURN ON BUT THE ENGINE WHEN I TURN THE KEY IT JUST MAKES A CLICKING NOISE. I LET SET FOR 2 TO 3 HOURS BEFORE I CAN RESART IT CAN U HELP ME FIND A SOLUTION SINCE THE DEALERS CANT!!!!!!!
  • 02impala102impala1 Member Posts: 2
    PURCHASED A 2002 IMPALA 12/23/03 AND ABOUT 2 WEEKS AGO MY CAR WOULDN'T START I WAS IN THE PARKING LOT FOR ABOUT 2 HOURS BEFORE IT WOULD START AGAIN AND BEFORE IT DID ALL IT WOULD DO IS MAKE A CLICKING NOISE WHEN I WOULD ATTEMPT TO START IT AND THE SECURITY LIGHT WOULD COME ON. DEALERS CANT FIND PROBLEM AND IT KEEPS HAPPENING PLEASE HELP IF YOU CAN!!!!!!!!!!
  • nnyleftynnylefty Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know the procedure for replacing the rear quarter panel window on an 02 Impala. I found a used window at a local junkyard, and would like to replace my broken one myself.
  • bp70466bp70466 Member Posts: 4
    I Have a 2002 impala, that has the same problem. It started about a week ago. I think it might be in the Transmission. I hope that it's not. But I can't find anything else wrong with the car.
    Please Help!
  • bp70466bp70466 Member Posts: 4
    I found out what the problem was, The Catalytic converter is plug up. The whistling is the exhaust blowing out around the gasket on the front pipe.
  • simonswusimonswu Member Posts: 5
    Thanks a lot!
    how's the fix? has to be replaced?
  • 31123112 Member Posts: 1
    I also own a 2002 Impala, it was bought preowned certified, plus we bought the 2 year extended warranty. The transmission started slipping last year around 32,000 and it was covered under the warranty,but once again it is starting to slip, 55,000. The dealership stated there was no recall, but after looking at this site, they should do one. I am going to the dealership this week, hope to have good news.
  • bp70466bp70466 Member Posts: 4
    Come to find out the converter is covered under warrantee for 8 years or 80,000 miles. Our local dealer fix it yesterday, The car runs great now.
  • simonswusimonswu Member Posts: 5
    I just talked to my dealer. Yes, the converter is under extended warranty. I'll take the car there.

    Mine has only 40K miles on it. A friend of mine says a clogged cat converter on low miles could indicate something else is not working well, especially engine.
  • bp70466bp70466 Member Posts: 4
    According to the dealer this is a common problem with this car. I'm guessing the vendor who made the parts probably used cheep materials. The inside of the converter falls apart and plugs up the exit. Chances are the engine is ok. The older cars that had carburetors would clog up the converters often. But now with fuel injection, the engines burn so clean it don't happen to often.
  • tabithatabitha Member Posts: 1
    i have had some similar problems lately. i have a 2000 impala with 155K miles and i recently had the transmission fluid changed. since then when the car shifts it jerks pretty hard. not all the time and not every gear. sometimes the jerk is lighter than others. was told that it was an internal transmission problem. something about a spring or something came out when the fluid was changed. are you kidding me. have no clue what to do!
  • jw2jw2 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, this is my first posting, so please bear with me. I have a 2001 LS with 78,800. Recently, after the car is warm (say over 25 miles) I can hear a whining noise when I accelerate. This noise (after it starts) can be heard even if I rev the engine neutral. I seem to hear it only after the engine has been running a while. It also seems to shift gears harder as well (automatic). Any suggestions are appreciated.
  • vconawayvconaway Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 chevrolet impala. Recently the air conditioner has not been blowing to its full capacity. I have the blower on 5 but it feels like it is on 2. I also feel air blowing on my feet and the windshield even though it is set to blow out of the front vents. What could this be?

    Sometimes my turn signal does not work at all. One time it may be working and then the next time I use it, nothing.

    My fuel gauge is also acting up. It goes up and down. I put in gas yesterday and it did not move. This was the first time this had happened. Now it is bouncing back and forth between empty and half tank.

    Could these problems be related?
  • ravensfan1ravensfan1 Member Posts: 3
    I think I can help with the first problem. I have a 2002 LS. After owning it a few months, I had the same problem where the air seemed to come out from the wrong vents. After driving awhile you might start coming from the correct vent. At first the dealer played with the vents and said they were binding up. That didn't work. Then they replaced the vent selector switch. That fixed it.

    The vent selector works on pneumatics to open and close the various vents. Mine went bad in some way. If you turn off the fan and the radio and listen carefully while changing the selector, you should hear the pneumatics making a little swishing sound and the vents popping open and closed. I believe my mom's malibu had a similar problem that was fixed with the switch being replaced.

    As for your other problems, I can't help.
  • dgonzalez13dgonzalez13 Member Posts: 110
    go to dealer's parts department and buy the Hazard Signal button, $16.95.

    Look up the instructions on removing the instrument panel trim (takes about 30 minutes to do the first time, till you realize nothing really breaks when you remove it). The instructions are on the internet at a website that sounds like impala hq dot com.

    Just replace the hazard signal , it controls the blinkers and fixed the same problem for me in my impala and my girlfreind in her Malibu. They even had a recall for the same part in the malibu to address your issue in the Impala.
  • allymallym Member Posts: 1
    I have a coolant leak and the dealer said I needed a gasket for the lower manifold, that that's where it was leaking. I checked on line and saw that there had been a recall. Not through the GM sight but through impalahq.com. GM of course says that my car is not involved. My VIN does fall in the numbers listed at that sight however. It's looking like I'll have to have the repair done now since the leak has worsened. Has anyone else had this problem with collecting on this recall? I should mention it's a 2000 Impala.
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