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Chevrolet Impala: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
I would go to a certified radiator shop or chevrolet dealership and have them check out your cooling system. The stalling problem is probably something else.
I did change the air filter at around 30,000 miles and things were fine. I also tried a bottle of Chevron Techroline cleaner but that didn't help.
In terms of my automotive repair choices, I seem to have two main choices:
1. Get the dealer to perform a diagnostic at around $96
2. Speculatively replace the fuel filter and get fuel injection service at around ($140 combined)
I checked the maintenance schedule and it doesn't seem to have anything on fuel filter and fuel injection service schedule. From general experience, are these generally required at this mileage - i.e. by going for option 2, am I essentially throwing money away or it is a good thing to do anyway at this mileage and if it fixes the problem, then I save the diagnostic fee?
By the way, in my discussion with the dealer, he also mentioned transmission fluid replacement - but the maintenance manual calls that out at 50,000 in city/towing/hilly area [I do live in a hilly area]. So is 34,000 miles too soon for that?
Thanks in advance for any tips and guidance!
Maybe Ladyimpala's car has a fuel pump issue?
had the same problem two weeks after i got my car. the dealership fix it. they had to reseal the bottom of the windshield. it has be ok since. i know that you dont want to pay for this but any glass company should be able to fix the problem. someone else i know had the same problem but his was the incabin filter that was stopped up. this is located on the passagener side at bottom of windshield. i hope they fix the problem. good luck
When it doesn't start, i turn the key and the engine never cranks. I can press the windows down and up and the blinkers work but the engine never turned. Waited a few hours and it cranked up. Then i took it to the dealer but he said he couldn't do anything for since it seemed to be working fine for him. All it pulled up on the machine was "security" or "security codes" or something like that he said. Well yesterday it wouldn't start again and i was stranded. Got a ride out to the car and it still wouldn't start so i left it in a parking lot overnight. The next morning i went out there and tried again and it still wouldn't start. I disconnected the battery and left it off for about 2-3 minutes. Reconnected it then started the car. I was relieved to be able to take the car back home. Only problem is when i put the car in reverse which is when my autolock is supposed to do its thing, the security light pops back on. Oh yeah, there is also the clicks.
So has anyone had any success solving this problem?? The Passlock sec. seems the "key" suspect. Could i need new keys?? Fuel pump and ignition switch are contenders. The Body Control Module is my worst fear. I hope its something simple like a bad battery cable. Can anyone help??
1 love
We had one of our people on NewImpala dot com swear her car was possessed, it was turning lights on & off, her windows were self-activating, and the gauges were going whacko on her, she thought she was in a horror movie! Her posts are worth reading if you're having electrical problems...
Take care
Eric
Thanks in advance
It did solve the problem. The car was only 3 months old at the time (Dec. 2001) w/ 2300 miles, so the dealer fixed it under warranty. I don't remember how much it could have cost. If I find the repair slip and it mentions it, I will update the message. For some reason, $170 sticks in my head.
I looked it up in my Helms manual. If you are comfortable digging into the instrument panel, I think you could do it yourself. It mentions removing the IP trim plate bezel and the front floor console. From there, unscrewing it and and removing the connectors. Then installing the replacement in the reverse procedure.
One thing I would caution is that it might be one of two items. I found the item "HVAC control assembly replacement" which is what I believe was replaced on mine. The manual also has a section on "HVAC control vacuum valve replacement". It is unclear from the description and pictures, but it seems like it might be a component of the HVAC control assembly.
Hope this helps and good luck.
Had the brake rotor issue, frontend issue, backwindsheild seal coming off, the loud humming noise in the right side oh not to mention I am losing break fluid ?
Thanks everybody for sharing all your experience you've had with your (my baby)car. I do not know whether I want to keep this car we have 85k miles it now.
When it rains, it pours.. :0(
I hope this helps.
thanks
Recently developed a kind of whining noise from the front. The whine can
only be heard when the car runs in roughly 20 - 30 mph speed range (sometimes 20-25mph)
Tried switching gear to neutral when whining, most of times the noise is
still there until the car slows down below ~20mph.
:confuse: What whines?
The guy at the center responsible for my car, when I asked him why there could still be a problem, said that it's probably just some bolts that aren't fastened properly. Now I don't know a whole lot about cars(I am going to start learning more after all of this, however), but I'm not seeing how just a few lose bolts could be overlooked twice already, or could there be a bigger issue here? Could somebody explain the structure of a cradle and things that could go wrong with it?
Anyway, last week at 55k miles, I needed mine replaced due to all the usual suspected conditions, etc. It could me $200 and they would not cover it as a warranted item. It time to contact GM and asked them why I have to pay for an issue that's 5-years old, regardless of how many miles are my Impala.
That being said, it feels like a new car again. The suspension feels tightened up, smooth and very responsive.
I had the identical problem with my Impala not starting when overheating...or so I thought. The temperature rising up, it seems to be a common answer from a lot of dealers, mechanics and internet research. I know that several things CAN cause this starting issue. First, APA and GM confirms on average coolant leaking or busted intake manifold can cause this issue in 7 out of 10 cars. Second, if your head gasket needs to be replaced, your car will stall while running. Third and most common problem to this starting issue is......YES, THE FUEL PUMP. If your manifold and head gasket are working properly...this will most likely be your problem...Due to the cooling fans activating only at a certain temperature, if your fuel pump is broken, it will overheat and boil your gas before the fans kick in, thus preventing your car from starting until gas stops to boil. One advise to all who care to apply it, don't wait, take your car for inspection to GM qualified dealer or garage. I have dedicated a lot of time to properly identify not only the problem but also the causes of the problem. Again, I went through the same ordeal like you people and hope that this will help some of you.
I took it to the dealer and they said they could find nothing wrong with the frontend or wheel balance.
Told me it was just the way the suspension is tuned that made it feel that way.
anyother 2005 LS owners notice this issue or have information?
The First time this happened the security light also came on but that may be because everything died. The car does NOT have a bumb sensative alarm. It has happened about a dozen time since I have the car. As this is an intermittent problem which cannot be duplicated in the service area.
THIS HAS ME VERY WORRIED. ANY THOUGHTS ABOUT WHAT MIGHT BE CAUSING THIS AND HOW WE’D GO ABOUT GETTING IT FIXED. Please email me your responses. Thank you!
Has your traction control been giving you a problem? Mine seems to fail when I turn the wheel to the left. It has now totally failed and the ck engine lt is on to fix it. I have already replaced the comp chip for $215 generic, the GM same part was $615, not sure what I am going to do next.
My center console shakes at higher speeds.
Let me know if you have found a solution for the clicking, I think the glue that was used by my dealer was done just to get me out of the shop.
Good Luck
Gino in Georgia
This is obviously very dangerous and I have lent them my car so they don't get into any trouble on the side of the road,especially my Mother.
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Dan
I have a 2000 Impala LS and was having starting problems like lots of others. The car would start fine when cold, but then after a short trip to the grocery store or mall, it wouldn't start. It would crank over and over but wouldn't fire. We would let it sit for 10-15 minutes and try it again and away we'd go. I took it to the dealer yesterday and they said it was a bad "ignition module". That was replaced and so far so good. Had a similiar problem just after 36k, and then it was a fuel pressure regulator. Also I had gasket problems, leaking coolant and oil so replaced a lower intake gasket and oil pan gasket. I really like the design of the new 2006 Impala but I think I'm going to switcht to Honda or Toyota when I'm ready to trade. :lemon:
Problem 2, have the catalytic converter checked, it contains a honeycomb material coated with platinum. If the honeycomb breaks it could clog the converter and cause low power, backfire, etc. It should be under warranty. I hope this helps, good luck.
Take the car to the dealer and have them check the catalytic converter. I have a 2002 Impala and just got a letter from GM advising that I MIGHT experience a problem with the converter (that was described like your problem) and if so return to the dealer for a WARRANTY repair. They advised this was not a recall and stated they were extending the warranty for this particular problem to 10 years/120,000 miles. I had a similar problem on a car I had about 10 years ago and it was also the converter that had gone bad. hope this helps.
Michelle
Michelle
To reset (calibrate) the system: The tire inflation
monitor system can be reset two ways. With the
ignition position at ON, pull the interior lamps
control to the ON and OFF settings three times.
It can also be reset through the radio using the
following steps:
1. Turn the ignition to ACC or ON and turn the
radio off.
2. Press and hold the TUNE DISP button on the radio for
at least five seconds until SETTINGS is displayed.
3. Press the SEEK PTYPE up or down arrow to scroll
through the main menu.
4. Scroll until TIRE MON appears on the display.
5. Press the 1 PREV or 2 NEXT button to enter the
submenu. RESET will be displayed.
6. Press the TUNE DISP button to reset. A chime will
be heard to verify the new setting and DONE will be
displayed for one second.
7. Once the monitor has been reset, scroll until EXIT
appears on the display.
8. Press the DISP button to exit programming. A chime
will be heard to verify exit.
The system completes the calibration process
during driving.
The system normally takes 15 to 20 minutes of driving
in each of three speed ranges to “learn” tire pressures.
The speed ranges are 15 to 40 mph (25 to 65 km/h),
40 to 65 mph (65 to 105 km/h) and above 65 mph
(105 km/h). When learning is complete, the system
will alert you after two to eight minutes if a tire is 12 psi
(83 kPa) different from the other three tires. Detection
thresholds may be higher and detection times may be
longer on rough roads, curves and at high speeds. The
system is not capable of detection at speeds greater than
70 mph (110 km/