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Comments
the board that has the resistors. It costs $60 to $90 at autoparts store.
Michellle
if i use my AC for a day, for example, then the next day, i turn it off (push button and turn fan off), then later go to turn the fan back on, the AC would ALSO come on (button lights up without pushing it). This happened a few times, and it seemed weird that it would come on w/o having to actually push the button. What i found was that if i turned the TEMP knob up to warm/heat, then tried it, eventually i could turn on the fan w/o having the AC come on. So im assuming there must be a connection as to what the temp knob is set to as to when the AC comes on without having to push the button.
During this past winter, i always had the temp knob turned all the way up, and every time i would turn the fan on, the AC would not come on unless i pressed the button.
We'll see what happens this spring when i go to use the AC for the first time this year.
THANKS,
GXPJOEYP
Whining noise is usually a sigh that the clutch on the compressor might be going. If its still blowing out semi cold air, then the compressor should be ok, and just have to replace the clutch. Its about $100-125 or so, but you need special tools to install it.
I suggest taking it to a shop just to get an estimate. At least they will tell you whats wrong with it.
Take the battery out, and look for a fairly thin, hard plastic line. Should run by the battery and down to a ball-shaped tank under the driver's side front end of the car. Follow along it's complete path up through the engine bay. If that's not it, look around engine at other vacuum lines and you should find a bad one. Local auto parts will sell you new line.
I am brand new to this site and read a few threads before I decided to ask my question. I have a '97 Grand Prix GT with a manual control AC System. It has been in the shop three times in the last two weeks and after a few hundred dollars, the AC still is not cold. The shop said the control panel was bad, so I replaced it but this didn't solve the problem. They have stated it is full of freon, everything turns on, but it doesn't get cold.
Does anyone have any ideas on what to check? I fixed the problem of it blowing out the heater, defrost and dash at the same time. The vacuum hose had come loose under the washer fluid reservoir. This works right now, it switches from max to normal AC, the clutch engages on the compressor, switches to heat, defrost, etc....you can move the temp switch from cold to hot and it gets hotter, just won't get cold.....
I would appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks!
I have the exact same problem. Mine is a 1998 GTP with 200K miles. It has been a pretty good car overall, I bought it new.
I will detail the problems: It has a totally electronic climate control system. There is no cable control valves for heater core that I know of... It also has dual climate control.
When the AC is on and it is running in single mode operation the driver's side vents blow out warm air. The air temperature doesn't seem to change until the set point for the auto AC is around 82 degrees. Meanwhile, the passenger side is blow cooler air. This is while the unit is in single mode. Switching to dual mode and setting the passenger side to 60 does not seem to change anything.
I was thinking about getting a junk yard climate control module but since the first guy that made this posting tried it and it didn't fix his problem I am not sure what to do.
Thanks.
I had been reading some of your discussions, and you are excellent! I was hoping that you might be able to help me with an unusual problem that I am having with a 98 Grand Prix GT (2 DR, 3.8L, nat asp). Recently I noticed that when the heater/air blower motor switch is moved from off or high to an intermediate speed, the blower usually stops and the daytime running lights go out. If I pull the fuse for the blower intermediate speeds, the blower does not work, but the DRL’s do. During the time that the DRL’s are out, the air conditioning can not be activated. I am not sure if it is related, but the indicator for the rear window defrost no longer lights, but I can hear the relay click, and think that I see the lights dim slightly. Sometimes I can still get a lower intermediate speed for the blower motor, and the DRL’s work. Does anybody have any experience or suggestions for this combination?
Steve
I recently just had my heater go out also, fortunetly after reading several sites and going to my college's automotive dept. I found out it is my resistor pack that I have to replace. However, I may possibly have stumbled across an answer for your question. I have included a link to a site that explains it. Since you are having problems with your DRL's and your heater it is possibly your resistor pack and an ignition switch (I think). Here is the sites that explain it better along with photos of how to replace the part.
http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=20670
I hope this helps.
Justin
I recently just had my heater go out also, fortunetly after reading several sites and going to my college's automotive dept. I found out it is my resistor pack that I have to replace. However, I may possibly have stumbled across an answer for your question. I have included a link to a site that explains it. Since you are having problems with your DRL's and your heater it is possibly your resistor pack and an ignition switch (I think). Here is the sites that explain it better along with photos of how to replace the part.
http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=20670
And the low coolant light stays on (even though I have had my radiator flushed and filled)and the temperature gage will go from 100 to 260 and then back down again. I know that it is not overheating.
HELP! Has anyone had a problem like this? I have taken to two people and they can't figure it out!! Others have asked for me to bring it in when the problem is occurring and of coarse they aren't open then.