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Lincoln LS General Care & Maintenance
Hi I'm Tom,
I want to jack up my Lincoln LS V8, so I can change the trans filter, and remove the plate cover off the rear end.
The problem is the rear end isn't a convential type rear end in which you can jack up the rear end, with the plate on the center of the differential.
I know you can devise a way to jack it up, but I don't know which contact points to use in order to jack it up from the rear.
Any help?
Also, where's a safe spot to place the stands?
Thanks for your time,
Sincerely,
Tom
I want to jack up my Lincoln LS V8, so I can change the trans filter, and remove the plate cover off the rear end.
The problem is the rear end isn't a convential type rear end in which you can jack up the rear end, with the plate on the center of the differential.
I know you can devise a way to jack it up, but I don't know which contact points to use in order to jack it up from the rear.
Any help?
Also, where's a safe spot to place the stands?
Thanks for your time,
Sincerely,
Tom
0
This discussion has been closed.
Comments
Could anyone suggest a maintain manual specific to Lincoln LS, V6 automatic transmission? I want to tune up my car, so I need more information about my car beyond manufacturer manual coming along with the car. People told me to look Chilton's or Hayne's. I did not find any specific to LS. Anyone have luck to get one.
This morning I had the dealer do a COP stress test and he found 2 bad COPs. He suggested replacing them all but I just had him replace the two and all is well again - runs like a champ. If this ever happens again, I will be tempted to simply replace the remaining 6 myself since it is a fairly easy job and they can be purchased for much less than the dealer charges.
A question: I know they recommend 100,000 intervals on the spark plugs. I originally replaced the plugs at 58,000 and the gaps measured over .050. Proper spec is .039 - .043. This time they had again eroded to a bit over .050. Has anyone left the original plugs in to over 100K miles? How did they look?
Seriously though - the few people who've changed them themselves didn't report anything unusual.
I have the factory chrome wheels and matching factory lug nuts. I don't know if this would be an issue with super silver wheels or if the lug nuts are different with them.
I did check with my selling dealer and they threw up their hands and want me to bring it in. Then I checked with another dealer whose service dept has been much better than the selling dealer. They knew of the problem and say it's due to the nuts being 'soft' and that they change shape over time when being taken off and put on. They said Ford considers this an owner maintenance responsibility and will do nothing. The service write offered to change all 20 nuts for me if I bought new ones and brought them in. They have a 'special tool' they created for just this purpose he says.
akirby has kindly informed me that he has had success using a 6-point 20mm socket. At this time I don't have one so can not verify this. If anyone else has any info about this, I'd love to hear it.
I think I will find a LS for the best price. I'm not sold on Nissan product quality. And the CTS, just not sure about the look and plastic interior for $19,000 ???...
I am leaning to the V8 LS, because I like the extra power. But with price of gas ?
Does LS require premium gas? I wouldn't put anything below 89 in my car anyway.
Thx.
Please check the gap on your old plugs. I originally changed mine at around 58,000 and again at 104,000. Both times, the gap had eroded from the recommended .042 to about .052 or so. I would be interested to see if yours showed that kind of erosion.
The LS die hards are way cool !!
The OEM plugs are platinum tipped and rated for 100,000 mile usage. So go stock I'd say. Bill Jenkins at Ford parts has it all working.
My car..... I'm wondering how loud the differential bearing noise has to get before I break the bank and get it fixed?
But other than that, all is cool.
I also wanted to comment that I bought some Avon Tech M550 AS 245/45-17s last summer. The price I got was around $116 a tire, not bad for V-rated or better tires. I had them road-force balanced immediately before using them. One tire was at around 32 lbs of road force and was succesfully replaced. They started off nice, but not even a year into them, and running snows for 3 months of that year on my 16 inch rims, the rear tires are getting noisy. Far-fetched thinking has me wondering if my rear shocks with 97K on them are partly responsible. Oh, those will be changed this year. I did the fronts at around 50K when I had to replace both steering knuckles due to leaking and corroded ball joints. The car is still very stable, but the shocks may not be dampening the subtle imbalanced conditions as well, allowing the tires to develop a chop. I still have my marauder, too, which is just shy of 4 years old by 2 months. That car has turned out to be very nice, a real workhorse with no mechanical failures in 60K miles.
I get some freaky problems with my LS, like the right side heat goes crazy and can't shut off, and something is not 100% in the multifunction switch (the wiper/washer/turn signal stalk). Sometimes the one-shot wiper will fire, others not. The wipers run during a storm, then they stop. They quickly fire off 2 sweeps and stop, then start up again, seconds apart. All in speed position 1. I also had most of last winter (it's finally over, right?) where the washer would run when asked to, but no automatic 2 or 3 sweeps of wiper would occur. That went away when the weather got warmer. I also had false alarms in the washer fluid low indicator, where even a full fill would not shut it off. When it warmed up out, the washer began working the wipers again, and the low fluid alarm would go off. It still returns a couple of times a day, but I don't know if it's really low or not now!
LS die-hard Mike
Thanks for the heads-up, Mike. I had nearly given up waiting on Sylvania for these lamps and hadn't checked on them in a long time. After reading your post this morning, I stopped by my local Kragen store and bought the only two 9145STs they had in stock.
B
http://tinyurl.com/lmpru
This auction is over but he had 65 coils! So I am sure you could get them from him. Only $30 plus shipping each.
.
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They replaced 2 coils, forgot to do the trans flush. When I got home I notice that they had installed 2 Rear Sway Bar Links (which happened to be covered by my Ext Warr). Needless to say this didn't fix the problem. I also asked to be contacted by a regional service tech since the service manager told me that this was a common problem and Lincoln was fixing them up to 75k miles. I have 77k but thought it was worth a shot and they gave me some 800 number and some clerk answered.
What really pissed me off was the "service shop supply charge" of $20.60. The invoice small print tells you what that is for (just a way to get more money) but it also states that the MAX charge is to be $15.00. I looked at some of my other bills and the charge was always over the $15. I wonder how much the dealership has ripped off customers for in the past years. Probably time to get the state AG involved.
Thanks for reading my venting.
It seems unlikely the element would be bad, but maybe you're right. Might not be worth the expense. My wife will just have a cold tushi this winter.
The owner's manual should have a fuse diagram. Check all the fuses and relays.
My front wheel bearings have been getter LOUDER AND LOUDER. I researched the parts and bought them from the fast parts network (Torrie) for $103 plus shipping and handling for the front one. My mechanic friend told me to order both - so I ended up ordering the other, but it isn't in yet.
The change out for the first one was a piece of cake! 1.) Remove the wheel. 2.) Remove the caliper and place on the suspension/steering. 3.) Remove the caliper support (or whatever its calle) & rotor. 4.) Loosen the 4 bolts that hold on the hub and it practically falls out on its own. 5.) Remove the 2 bottom clips and inside top clip on the splash guard and pull it forward to unhook the speed sensor cable. 6.) Reverse to install.
This was the first one that I've done and it was simple. If you can do the repair - save yourself the cash of overpaying a dealer or mechanic.
I read on different sites where people were paying $800 for one rear hub replacement. I'm sure this is a little more involved since the axle is involved, but the part lists for $48! I can't belive it would cost that much in labor to fix them.
Has anyone change the rear hubs themselves or had them done? Do you need a hub puller or any special tools?
Next issue that just started (hope this isn't the beginning of the nickel/dime phase) is either the starter, battery or PATS ignition.
On a few occasions this past week - when I turn the key to the start position - I get nothing. Most times if I just let off and turn to start again - it will start. It is rolling fast and lights and everything seem bright, etc - so I've sort of ruled out the battery - even though it is 7 yr old original.
To me, it seems like the solenoid on the starter may not be getting good contact or whatever. Anyone else experience a similar problem and if so - what was your solution?
I use a rubbing compound and a lot of elbow grease. It's a lot of work. I generally do it in the spring when I take the winter tires off before storing them. Then I apply a coating of wax. This helps, but half the pitting still won't come off. I'm afraid to get too aggressive (like using a power grinder, etc).
ccicak
If you have them do the plugs, do the PCV valve AND the rubber elbow with it. It will cost more, but it is worth it. After replacing the plugs only, five months and 5K miles later, the check engine light came on, and the car would run rough and die at idle. The problem was collapsed/punctured PCV rubber elbow. They replaced both the rubber elbow and PCV valve for a whopping $395. I think our only Lincoln dealer overcharges way too much for what they do.
Joe