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Hoping it is not the fuel filter, car seems to run OK once it has started.
Any advise
This van starts when cold but not on the first crank, maybe the second or third and only if the engine is cold. When driven it runs great no problems at all ....goes down the road very good even . But if I stop to shop and come back out it will not start till its cold again , then it will start everytime (cold).
He checked alot of things and said the fuel pump relay is not being activated when the key is turned on. The fuel pump runs thou. This van has had so many new parts added to it I am sick of throwing money at it and its not the problem.
What does anybody think of the fuel pressure regulator leaking ? like the vacumn hose attached maybe has a leaky diaphram ? or the fuel injector leaking ?
I need serious help with this so any and all thoughts are asked for ! Thanks in advance....
When the van does start does it idle down nice or do you have to play with the throttle to keep it running?
I have OBDII software from Autotap. It came with a trouble shooting guide and information on the sensors. They provided a link to a web site that may be able to help.
CarleySoftware.com
There may be a fee for their service I do not know.
Good luck!
It starts after several cranks when cold but will not start when hot till it cools off for about an hour, then starts on the second or third key turn.
What do you think about something like vapor lock ?
or even internal fuel leak ?
Hasn't anybody had this happen and figured it out yet ... :confuse:
I took a trip with my van after replacing radiator, ECM fuel pump and tuning it up. It ran fine on the trip but once home i seemed to get rough and have a miss. Based on past history with the 5.7L Vortex I went after the intake gaskets. Found out they were already replaced. Problem seemed to still be there. Gave up and took it to the dealer and they gave me heart failure with their "quote". I did replace the crank sensor.( If this is done and the bushing in the timing cover comes out with the bolt try gluing it back in there with silicone. Worked for me).
Fast forward a year and I find out part of my problem. Had both Cats removed for"inspection" and was surprised when there was not one ounce of catalyst in either one. Muffler appears good and van does have great power. I can only guess when the Cats failed they were plugging up the exhaust and causing the van to chug and die out. Could be the reason for the noise in the exhaust.
hope this helps somebody save their nerves.
I hope this wasnt a expensive part as it will be the very next thing that I replace.
Oh , mine will start right away if you take off the air filter and box and spray carb cleaner into it for 3 seconds then put it back together and it starts ever time.
I am so tired of this problem, I hope this is the part it needs to fix it , THANK you scjh 1 !!!! I will let you know !
But the rub is now, my fan (on high) will run fine for a few mins, then seem to fade out, then back OK again...I tried the manly fix or smackin the dash..no joy. Fiddlin with the knob from MAX to AC ,no real diff. Going from HI to next down and BACK does seem to kicjk it back up again in less time then NOT fiddling with it.
I think I see the resister on the blower housing, and checked the plug, all loks peachy keen and probably new being as it was a wreck.
I DO have a vacuume leak somewhere, gotta pull the file cabinet and get the dog house out to search, can't hear it fron under the hood..maybe that is dinking with the system?
Help?
Thanks.
Duane
Replaced Plugs and wires
Replaced Crankshaft Position Sensor
Can anyone suggest where the next step is??
The issue I have is getting it anywhere to get a code reader on it but thought I'd try to rule out some of the starting points etc........
I'm going crazy but any info would be appreciated! Thanks in advance.
run for 10 to 30 seconds and die, it would start right back and drive ok until I stopped for over 10 minutes and it would do it all over again, start and die, start and drive ok. No codes on OBD2 scanner and security light off.
After checking everything trying to find the problem. I removed passlock module.
and scanner read P1626 Theft Deterrant System Fuel Enable Circuit. With passlock module removed it would start and die as before. Let it set overnight and tried again next day. Still with module removed started and died 3 times. Connected module and no more problems. It runs great and has not died again. Passlock module is located under dash, right side of steering column, just above
gas pedal cable and back towards steering wheel, It is sort of hide,
I also found in a manual, if a magnet is placed near passlock sensor it will cause vehicle control module to lockout mode and turn on security light, My light did not
stay on. The pickup sensor is just below key lock cylinder very close to the key entrance. My problem all started with a spare key with a magnetic tag on the same key ring. This van does not have alarm system, horn blowning and head lights flashing, Just the key passlock system.
5.7 votec
100,000 miles
My Van doesn't start after heavy rain & wind. It turns over but the engine stops abruptly almost as if the engine is ceasing making a weird sound. It has ruien 2-starters. The van usually starts after a couple of days
Thigs I have tried .... New Starter.... dry Gas ... Check for spark, ok .... replaced the Distributer cap & rotar a year ago .. 2-new fuel pumps 1 1/2 yrs ago
This Problem has been on & off for two yrs
Would Spark plug wires have anything to do with this?
Does the engine make the clanking sound every time you start it or try to start it? Does the engine spit and sputter when shutting off or just act like the key was turned off?
You can buy a manual for the van and it may help. You can monitor the fuel pressure while the engine is running and see if it drops off. An OBDII tester may give you some codes if there are engine problems. There is a crank position sensor that could be going bad, or the timing module in the distributor could be failing. When the engine shuts off do the idiot lights on the dash come on, when the engine does not want to start again are there any idiot lights on on the dash? Could be control module problems, loose wire or bad ground...
Good luck!
I use an AUTOTAP code reader with expanded information specific to the Fords, Chevy's and Chrysler products. (www.autotap.com) It is expensive but it has helped me with several cars.
I AM A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC ( REFRIGERATION) JUST SAYING
AND I DONT SEE ANY WHERE YOU GUYS ACTUALLY FOUND THE SMOKING GUN.... BECAUSE I HEARD THIS PROBLEM... IS SO INTERMIITTING... THAT IT CAN COME AND GO LONG PERIODS OF TIME... AND WHAT WAS THOUGHT AS A CORRECTIVE MESSURE MAY NOT BE.... ANY WAY DID ANY ONE EVER CONTACT THE NATIONAL SERVICE MANAGERS AT THE FACTORY?????
IS THERE A FACTORY SERVICE BULLETIN ABOUT THIS PROBLEM ??
OR DID ANY OF YOU GUYS FEEL YOU GOT TO THE BOTTOM OF THIS PROBLEM .. BECAUSE I DONT SEE THAT IN THE COMMENTS?
PLEASE HELP!!! I REALLY WANT TO BUY THIS 2002 EXPRESS BUT NOW I AM HESITANT ... AND I WOULD GREATLY APRECIATE SOME HELP
I AM A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC ( REFRIGERATION) JUST SAYING
AND I DONT SEE ANY WHERE YOU GUYS ACTUALLY FOUND THE SMOKING GUN.... BECAUSE I HEARD THIS PROBLEM... IS SO INTERMIITTING... THAT IT CAN COME AND GO LONG PERIODS OF TIME... AND WHAT WAS THOUGHT AS A CORRECTIVE MESSURE MAY NOT BE.... ANY WAY DID ANY ONE EVER CONTACT THE NATIONAL SERVICE MANAGERS AT THE FACTORY?????
IS THERE A FACTORY SERVICE BULLETIN ABOUT THIS PROBLEM ??
OR DID ANY OF YOU GUYS FEEL YOU GOT TO THE BOTTOM OF THIS PROBLEM .. BECAUSE I DONT SEE THAT IN THE COMMENTS?
PLEASE HELP!!! I REALLY WANT TO BUY THIS 2002 EXPRESS BUT NOW I AM HESITANT ... AND I WOULD GREATLY APRECIATE SOME HELP
rainy season and my '01 5.7 was 2 years old and still under warranty. The mechanic said it was moisture under the distributer cap and that I needed to drive it more. It happened again about a year later this time I looked at it myself and found copious amounts of moisture and corrosion. A new cap and rotor fixed the problem temporarily. The design and configuration is very susceptible to steam building in the small engine compartment and entering the vents in the bottom of the distributer and not escaping then the firing storm in the confined space corrodes and carbon tracks the components to premature failure. GM sent a tsb recommending removing the vent screens (not a good idea since it allows more moisture in.). I believe I have solved my problem by fabricating a vent fixed into the top (heat rises GM!) of the cap. I cut the vent from another model cap, drilled a hole in my cap and secured the vent with epoxy. So far so good! My last cap and rotor tracked so bad that it burned a hole through the rotor an stopped running while driving down the road. A new cap and rotor every 18-24 months will work I just got tired of the work and expense. I have gone through 4 or 5 sets before I put the vent in the top. Good luck.
Cheers
They can seal with fuel pressure and leak air back into the line without pressure and will not leak gas. I found them bad when reinstalling.
web site:
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/
Common Symptoms of a BAD MAF Sensor
This list is not all inclusive but it does contain the most common symptoms of a BAD MAF Sensor are:
The CHECK ENGINE LIGHT (CEL) on your Instrument Cluster is lit nice and bright with one of the following codes:
P0101 Mass Air Flow System Performance.
P0102 Mass Air Flow Low Frequency.
P0103 Mass Air Flow High Frequency.
Lean and/or Rich code(s).
Fuel Trim code(s).
A tremendous lack of power upon acceleration.
Black smoke coming from the tail-pipe.
Vehicle may idle rough and stall.
Bigger issue is the darn rain. as soon as it dries up, the thing turns right over with no hesitation. I found the rain guard over the fuse box on the drivers side a little loose. I have just realigned it. I also saw water on some of the connections. Hopefully it is that simple. I heard replacing the fuel pressure regulator works, but can't imagine thats the case here. It seems purely electrical and due to wetness. Any input would be helpful if anyone has a definite fix for this issue.
This happened about 4 times until it stalled and didn't start. I was pulling off the thruway and put it into to neutral and turned the key and it started. I drove about 20 miles and it stalled again, this time it didn't start. I tried several times to start it but no luck. I started my call to AAA and tried one more time and it started. I then drove from Rochester to Syracuse without incident about 70 miles. However this morning we have about 12" of snow and it will not start. Sorry for the long post but thought I'd have to tell the whole story for someone to diagnose it.
Thanks
Dan
If you are going to trouble shoot this yourself, I would recommend you have a manual like a Chilton's or Haynes for the van.
You can check for fuel pressure with a fuel pressure tester, the manual will have detailed information.
Check for spark at a plug or at the coil. There is a spark plug tester with a clip to secure the test plug to the engine.
An OBDII Tester may show a fault code or help with the trouble shooting.
Good luck.
I take it you live on the north side of the city with that much snow. We got about 4 inches of snow, I live about 18 miles south of Market Place Mall.
I just had my plugs and wires changed about a month ago.
Aside from the 3 time change of the computer in this vehicle{bad design with water shield it dumps on the computer} and the distributor cap it's been a good vehicle.
I've had it since 1998. I didn't know it was possible for an auto tranny to restart like that, without turning the key? I had it on a charger most of the day yesterday and it just wont start.
Thanks
Dan
If you check spark on the coil wire and it appears to be intermittent, it could be the crank position sensor or the module in the distributor. With intermittent spark the engine will sound like it wants to start. If it just spins over and there is no attempt to start you need to verify fuel pressure and spark.
Good luck.
Don, from Livonia,NY
Thanks
Dan
The next morning I went to leave for work and once I turned the key all the lights turned off and I had nothing. No clicks at the starter or anything sign of life at all. I did some research as I was starting to think I had a coputer problem. As it turns out 1996-1998 GM made the housing of the computer out of aluminum and the bolts that hold it together out of steel. What happens is that the steel bolt heads corrode and break off, the heads of the bolts are on the bottum and when the break they allow moisture to enter the computer. If you look under the master cylider you can see how this could be a bad choice to locate the computer and also how rain could sling onto the exact location of the connectors and front bolts.
So after reading this information and also watching a video, I removed my computer and inspected it. As it turns out I was not impacted by this problem but did see corrotion all over the computer and decided to mitigate the risk by replacing the bolts with stainless hardware and also using rtv to seal the two halves of the computer case.
Then I sat down and documented all of my problems and what I was doing once the van stalled and something I found in common, each time it was very windy or I was turning the van to the left. I had allready checked all grounds etc and the battery was only 6 months old so I didnt bother with that. Well that was my mistake. The battery hold down was not tight and when turning left the battery was sliding and pulling on the cables. Even though they seamed tight enough I disconnected the battery and cleaned all connection points then reinstalled it and tightened the hold down snug to insure the battery does not move. Needless to say all my problems are resolved.
I hope that you get as lucky as I did but if it wasnt that simple I also hope I helped by informing you about the computer problem they are known to have....