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Caravan/Voyager Suspension
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If that doesn't fix it, I would suggest better troubleshooting rather than throwing parts at the problem. It may be well worth the cost to go to a dealer with a diagnostic machine called "computer ears" amongst other names. Basically they put wireless microphones on various components to pinpoint eactly the source of a noise or vibration.
As an alternative, your mechanic will need to check ALL front components including tie bar and lower ball joints etc. Good Luck!
Also, some of these replacement sway bar links have grease fittings in them. Do yours? It could be as simple as getting that van lubed.
I just had the sway bar links and bushings done due to knocking in the front end which made the van quiet, but still get this vibration.
The van is a 2005 Grand Caravan SE with 72000 kilometers or about 45000 miles.
Thanks for any advice.
thx
windy city5
I was messing around with the van the other day and found a couple loose lug nuts on the front wheels. Not loose enough to fall off or anything, but I guess enough to give me that vibration. I tighened them up (especially the locking wheel nuts - they were the worst) and so far so good.
I haven't felt it since, and I have been trying to duplicate it by taking sharp corners and accelerating harder through the corners.
Hope that helps.
My dodge caravan is a 1994 with a 3.3 engine with overdrive and over 175,000 miles.
I noticed a couple of months back that the right passenger wheel seemed to start to shimmy at about 30 - 35 mph and then would disappear as I speeded up.
I drive the highway daily in mountainous terrain and am becoming more concerned with this issue as the condition is worsening.
I have been to several garages and get so many opinions.
I have installed 4 brand new tires and no change. I have had the uv shaft replaced and still no change.
The garage then referred me to a transmission shop as the mechanic noticed a drip from the transmission.
I went to that shop and he said that it would be 600 - 700 dollars to take apart the transmission to see if there is a cracked torque converter, pump problem etc. that is causing the drip; however no guarantee that it will fix this "shimmy".
I went home and phoned BCAA who I have been a member of since 1962 and they referred me to another garage as they said that they only do visual checks and that this matter needed a drive by a mechanic with me to advise of the problem.
I drove with the mechanic and he noted that the "steering wheel" had no vibration but both he and I felt the shimmy in the seat.
I asked what that could be and he said something in the back although the shimmy is in the front passenger wheel area.
No one will offer to put the van on the rack and inspect any area and suggest what the cost of an hours examination would be.
I am totally frustrated and want to get the issue repaired as i don't like highway driving in the mountains with such a problem exacerbating. especially as the highway is known for bad accidents. it is the sea to sky highway in vancouver bc where the Olympics will be in 2010.
Has anyone experienced such a problem as I really want to go into a shop and have another test drive and see what the mechanic says and be able to have an intelligent discussion and get the mechanic to do an hours work to research the problem and then go from there.
BCAA said that the transmission drip is highly unlikely to be the culprit of such a problem.
I really would appreciate any and all suggestions. i don't want to take it into a garage and say here find the problem and get a 7 hr bill with an inspection and no resolution to the shimmy.
Thankyou. BTW, I would appreciate ball park areas of cost to fix this problem if anyone has ideas, thankyou again.
Suggestions?
At this milage it is very likely the wheel bearing. A shop loves this because it turns out very costly UNLESS you do this: Replace the entire "spindle"* with one from a decent wrecking yard. It is a lot smarter than having a new bearing pressed into the old spindle.
* The "spindle" is the big heavy steel piece the driveshaft passes thru... it also has the shock-strut bolted to the top of it... it also has the suspension bolted to the bottom of it... it also has the steering "tie-rod" bolted to the side of it... believe it or not: replacing it is no big deal... 1-2 hrs max.
How to tell if yours is worn out? Raise the offending wheel like you are going to change the tire... grab the top of the tire and pull and push... is there any "play" at all?
There shouldn't be. (maybe a tiny tiny bit) But a bad wheel bearing also makes noise when it is off the ground and is being spun anround w/ the transmission in neutral. A good one makes almost no sound.
I do this all the time w/ vehicles w/ this amount of miles... and I always get another 10 years of use.
Don't start replacing a lot of things just because the shop says: "we're in there anyway". When you need a new bearing, a used spindle is the way to go.
They all wear out at about this many miles... it's normal.
I just had this work done on my '01 GC. Cost of the sway bar links and bushings, done at a tire store, was about $235. That's a lot less than the dealer quoted you.
John
Best Regards,
Shipo
The MSRP price for the OEM swaybar bushings is $4.95 per side, so $9.90. Okay, I guess that means that they did the swaybar end links as well (sometimes necessary, sometimes not), and they have an MSRP of $43.00 per side (for the OEM parts), so another $86.00. That brings our running total to $95.90, still a far cry from $175. I'm really trying to figure out what else they could have done to your van to bring the total up another $79.10.
Any ideas?
Best Regards,
Shipo
Have a Happy and Healthy Holiday Season.
Regards,
Dave
I'm new here. Just stumbled over this site. Looks good.
I own a GV 3,3 -93 and have that annoying problem.Changed just about
everything in my front suspension.. with no result. The one thing i didn't replace
yet is the swaybar bushings. I'll try it, thanks. Maybe the cheapest spare ever
can solve the problem.
Best regards
727 Denmark
I'm trying to order new bushings to get rid of this problem.
Everyone here mentions swaybar, and my Haynes manual doesn't use that term at all in the front suspension.It uses the expression: stabilizer bar. I'm confused.
Hope someone is able to help ;o)
Best regards, 727 Denmark
Although, I generally hear the term "stabilizer bar" used in conjunction with performance modifications wherein someone will install a strut tower stabilizer bar. Both those and the commonly used sway bars serve to reduce the body roll (and thus "stabilize") of the vehicle.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Hey, this place is cool.. ;o)
Best regards. 727
A curved.. bar.. stretching from one wheel to the other.
Thank you ;o)
Best regards, 727
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best regards
727
Thanks
Bill
Roll'er up on the ramps, crawl underneath, unbolt and move the servo unit under the left side swaybar bushing (three bolts IIRC), unbolt and remove both bushing covers, pull the old ones off, open up and slide the new ones on, replace the covers and the servo and you're done.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Test drove and now the suspension and steering responce feel like new, not like navigating a boat.
Note: PB Blaster is your friend, as well as leverage.
Creepingdeath - you mentioned the tools and PB Blaster. How many beers were needed
I don't have a lot of money and will have to take a loan to fix it if its that much. However, without it I have no way to get around and I am a full time student at the university currently missing my second day of classes.
mct :mad: