Dodge Caravan/Plymouth Voyager Cooling System (radiator, fan, etc.)
Hi- for replacement;
Does any one know where the cooling fan (electrical)relay module is located.? Most repair manuals leave out its location.
Does any one know where the cooling fan (electrical)relay module is located.? Most repair manuals leave out its location.
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I've moved the drum removal posts to our existing brakes discussion, where they'll have a better chance of being noticed and answered: 2001 - 2006 rear drum removal by bobconstance
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After much searching I found the Relay resting on top of the front bumper (rail frame re-bar) in behind the grill on the driver's side.To access it you will need to remove the head lamp (3 screws) module.The Relay is attached (factory installed)by a large rivet. A large pry bar may be required to free the faulty relay. Remove the wiring harness with a small hooked flat screwdriver under the (hidden) inside area of the locking tab. Before re-connecting put a spot of vaseline on each tab of the new module to reduce moisture corrosion.The Relay has to be firmly re-attached to the bumper to create a heat sink.You will need to remove the rivet from the bumber with a long cold chisel and re-attach the new module with a 9/32" self tapping large screw (or see dealer's replacement part). Re-attach the wiring harness before re-attaching the module to the bumber.Make sure it is well secured- the radiator is right behind it!
The 9/32" self tapping screw just wouldn't cut it. I wound up tapping the hole with a 5/16" NC 16 tap bit mounted from a small T bar tap ratchet. I removed a piece of a web from the grill to give me some leverage. Its a very tight area in behind the grill to work with but a threaded bolt and lock washer now has the cooling fan relay firmly re-secured. I think a secure mount might work as a ground for the circuit as well so a tight installation with no loose play is a must. Be careful not to tighten the bolt too hard or you may strip the (2) threads in the hole. Some thread lock might be a good idea as well. The cooling fans are now working once again with a warm engine idling while stopped in traffic !
Steve from Indy
For confirmation, check virtually any car you want, Chrysler, Mercedes, Lexus, BMW, Jaguar, Kia, Nissan, Subaru, it doesn't matter.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I am curious what was the reason for replacing the relay module?
I have a '03 caravan and the radiator fans are coming on all on their own, even with no keys in the ignition. From what I have found on the net and the error code form the dash (P1491-Radiator fan control relay circuit) I suspect it is the relay myself.
any help is appreciated
Singlemom3
My hubby replaced the radiator and since then the radiator fan hasn't come on.
He rigged it up someway but we now have to pop the hood and connect it to the battery for the fan to come on each time and take it off.... he says he can purchase a switch for 3 bucks and install it in the car so we can turn it on & off inside but that can't be the only way. Any ideas on what may be wrong and what we need to do to fix it? :confuse:
If the fan was broken why would it work w. a direct connect to the battery?
I might add...in case it's helpful... directly after changing the radiator, the hose going from the tranny to the radiator burst, we lost all of our fluid and thought the tranny had blown. :sick: Still dont know why but since then I found out we were using the WRONG fluid (dextron or something) so I bought some ATF+4 and found a new cooler line and problem solved for under 50 bucks...PLUS the tranny no longer has the slight slip that it had before around 35mph (due to incorrect fluid, I bet)
Where did yours normally top out when warmed up?
The bottom line, though, is that if you cannot feel at ease when driving it and do not want to fix it, then it is likely time to move on to something else.
1) Check the fuses for the cooling fans.
2) When you see the temperature gauge going up to hot. Pull over, open the hood and see if the cooling fan is going. (If not, it might be the coolant temp. sensor.)
3) With the van running in Park, at idle speed, turn on the AC and see if the cooling fans are running. (Both fans should run all the time when using the AC.)
4) Make sure there is nothing blocking the flow of air through the cooling coils in the radiator. Sometimes you might have to run the garden hose over the cooling coils to rinse away all dirt and lent build up.
5) You can check the top radiator hose when the van is cold, to see if the thermostat is opening up and not stock closed. When you first start the van, let it run in Park at idle. As you see the temp. gauge going up, feel the top radiator hose to see if it is getting warm/hot. If it is still cold, then the thermostat has not opened yet to allow the coolant to flow thru the radiator to be cooled. If you see the temp. gauge going past the halfway point and the top hose is still on the cool side, it might be the thermostat :shades:
You may have a short in the primary power wire from the relay to the cooling fan motor. A multi-tester in the continuity setting would confirm if theres a break in the line. An akward visual inspection from underneath the vehicle may also spot it. If so,cut the bad piece out and splice in an equal gauge of wire to graft it in to position. Ideally, copper wire could be soldered with rubber heat shrink tubing placed around it to seal it.
All in all I think the whole thing was about $24 and tax.
And to think, the dealer said it was going to cost me $80 to LOOK AT IT!!!!
Thanks
Bill :shades:
Best Regards,
Shipo
Does anyone know where this relay is located.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Many thanks in advance for any input,
Mosander
Thank you
Another thing you could do is to try and apply 12V directly to the fan motor (after taking off the connector) and see if the fan spins. Need to be careful if you do this using the battery, however, 'cause a short might melt the wires you were using.
The purpose of these two experiments is to try and isolate the problem to either the fan motor itself or the controlling relay, sensor, and associated wiring.
Thanks
Hope this helps. I just replaced mine last week. My problem was that the fans would not shut off, so I had to pull the 40A relay in the fuse box.
When it's hot there is nothing.........
There are, apparently, products on the market to remove the hazing/yellowing, but doing so tends to cause them to yellow more quickly in the future. Still, that might be better than replacing them outright!
I had a air compressor put in my 1999 Plymouth Voyager and the freon was not replace. Can you tell me how many cans of freon to put in. The mechanic told me to get three cans for him to put in and bring 50.00 but my son knows how to put in and have added 1 and a half cans but car is not cool enough . Is three cans sufficient?? We don't want to put too much so please advise.
Thanks so very much....
Will leak stop fix it?
"Will leak stop fix it?" Maybe, maybe not, it depends upon what's leaking.
I used to get the P1491 code on my 01 Caravan before I changed my leaky engine cooling radiator. It seemed that coolant was draining on to the wire leading to the far fan motor creating a grounding short. Some of the wire insulation was cracked so I graffted in a new section. The old rad looked okay until I took it out and and the the hot side tank was corroded along the fins. There is 2 other small rads (tranny& AC) that hang off the front of the engine rad and 2 electric fans. It took me a couple hours and a 6 pack of beer to fix it! The fan relay was behind the rad on top of the cross beam on the driver's side. I had to remove the head lamp module to access it.
I have replaced the fan assembly, coolant temperature sensor, and the radiator fan fuse. It still runs hot with the AC on. For some reason the fans are not coming on when they are suppose to. The fans are working because I tested them before I put them in. The new sensor gives the correct temp reading on the dash. Suggestions for what I may have missed, thanks.