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My Navigation system locks up when I believe the temperature in the car, after sitting in the sun, is high. When I start the car, the navigation system starts up, but even with AC running, after awhile I see a fuzzy image and every half inch I see a blue vertical line and the whole navigation system locks up.
When I say navigation system, I am including the radio, XM radio, GPS, and the Blue Tooth phone (the whole electronics package in the one unit). So all those functions quit working. While the car is still on, I can push the on/off volume control and the unit does turn off but comes back to its previous locked state when turned on after pushing the on/off button.
The only way to reset the navigation system is to turn the car off for over 5 minutes (not sure on exact time). I have turned off the car completely for 30 seconds and the navigation system comes back locked up.
Wondering what should I do ? And wondering if anyone knows a button combination that will allow me to reset the navigation system while I am driving (versus turning the car off on the side of the road for five minutes) ?
I was going to take it to the local dealer I bought it from. But I get the feeling over the phone they have never dealt with any Navigation system on the 2010. Meaning I am scared to take it to them in case something else goes wrong while they "tinker" with it. For other than the above everything in the car runs fine.
Is 15,416 the best you think I can do? Or i can negotiate to get it lower?
I am still going to look at the Kia Forte, to compare I heard good things about that car but not sure.
Thanks
Keep in mind, they do have electronic power steering, so on the highway, they will tighten up.
General Manger of Crown completely ignored my emails for help! Hyundai Co. is no help either!
Please be aware that any dealership can alter their contract anyway they want but they will not do so as they will not be able to rob you of your money!
Crown Hyundai should have done the right thing and take the wrong car back, switch it back to the original car or return my money as this was their fault!
As they haven’t done so I will NEVER buy anything at Crown Hyundai again!
General Manger of Crown completely ignored my emails for help! Hyundai Co. is no help either!
Please be aware that any dealership can alter their contract anyway they want but they will not do so as they will not be able to rob you of your money!
Crown Hyundai should have done the right thing and take the wrong car back, switch it back to the original car or return my money as this was their fault!
As they haven’t done so I will NEVER buy anything at Crown Hyundai again!
1. the government, and
2. you.
I don't agree with high-pressure sales tactics, but ultimately, the decision to purchase and/or trade in is yours alone. It is very, very rare that a dealership will take a new car back - it is then a USED vehicle, so when they re-sell it, they take a huge loss. They aren't going to do that simply because you weren't able to resist their sales tactics.
The only suggestion I can offer you is that you should take someone (objective) with you next time you shop, so that they can help you say "no" if the deal doesn't seem right.
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I am scheduled to finalize a purchase for a used Hyundai Elantra 2010 with 16000 miles for $13,000 (this was the best deal I could find). I am a student and am trying to keep my cost as low as possible. Accordingly, the car as a 5 year/100,000 mile factory warranty. The dealership is trying to sell me their extended warranty which would only up the factory warranty to a 10 year/100,000 mile. I am wondering if this is a deal I should take? I am looking for a long term reliable car, but am not sure that it is worth the $870 extra dollars. Also, I am not at all interested in the roadside assistance, etc. I have AAA.
Thanks!
1.) The warranty on a used Hyundai reverts back to 5yr/60,000 miles, not 100,000, unless the car is "Certified" and offered with the full 100k warranty. I'd put the $870 into a 5 year CD at the bank and use the cash to pay for a repair later should you need it. You must do relatively little driving if you expect to drive less than 86,000 miles in your car before 2020. As a suburban commuter in a mid-size city (Birmingham, AL) I drive 25,000 a year.
Otherwise, why pay for the 5 extra years?
2.) If it comes with roadside assistance, dump AAA for the next few years; you'll need it to pay for that pricey warranty.
In the end, remember that a warranty is a gamble, and you're betting against The House -- in all likelihood, you wouldn't spend $870; they've done the math for you and priced it in their favor. Assuming a 5 yr/ 60k warranty, its so good I'd still feel comfortable with it. The Elantra is a 4-5 year old design, whose engine design quite dated, but proven.
But anyway, I've owned two Elantras (2001 and 2004--still have the 2004, my sister still has the 2001) and I was very satisfied with their reliability and general ownership experience. And these are the previous-generation cars--not as good in many respects compared to the 2010. I've driven a lot of 2007-10 Elantras in test drives and rentals and like them a lot. Would have bought a used one in April if the resale values hadn't been so strong. One thing I like about the 2010s made after December is the improved crash test scores. That was never a strong suit of the Elantra--until now.
I wanted to ask you as you might be someone who knows, or can find out.
It's about the dif in wty coverage on Hyundai in USA vs Canada.
Yours is 10/100000 miles.
Ours is 5/100000 km which is only 62000 miles.
If I ask at my local Hyd dlr, they simply have no explanation. It really sticks in my craw that we don't get NEARLY as good a wty coverage as our American neighbours. The only way it would be more unjust is if I lived in a border town like FtErie/Buffalo.
this is ours..I think Kia is identical.
5 Year
100,000 KM
Comprehensive Limited
5 Year
100,000 KM
Powertrain Protection
5 Year
100,000 KM
Basic Emissions Coverage
8 Year
130,000 KM
Major Emission Coverage
3 Year
Unlimited KM
24 Hour Road Side Assistance
and see if you can make sense of these exclusions/conditions. It sure sounds complicated to me. Eng and tranny for 1 yr? this is just a small example
1 Year
20,000 KM
Replacement Parts
Genuine Hyundai replacement Parts purchased from and installed by an authorized HYUNDAI dealer will be warranted for 12 months from the installation date, regardless of distance travelled. Engines and Automatic transaxles are covered for 12 months or 20,000 kms, whichever occurs first.
Genuine Hyundai Parts purchased over the counter (not installed at an authorized Hyundai Dealership) are warranted for 12 months from the date of purchase. Only the cost of part is covered under this warranty.
Genuine Hyundai replacement Parts replaced under the terms of the HYUNDAI New Vehicle Warranty, including powertrain, emission, etc., will be warranted for the remainder of the warranty period applicable to the replaced part. Refer to the Service Passport for complete details of Hyundai warranties
3 Year
60,000 KM
Replacement Accessories
Genuine HYUNDAI dealer-installed Accessories are warranted for 36 months or 60,000 kms from the Warranty Registration Date, whichever occurs first. If installation occurs after the Warranty Registration Date, warranty coverage is 12 months from the installation date, regardless of distance travelled, or the balance of the 36 months or 60,000 kms coverage, whichever is greater.*
Genuine Hyundai Accessories purchased over the counter (not installed at an authorized Hyundai Dealership) are warranted for 12 months, unlimited kilometres from the date of purchase. Only the cost of accessory is covered under this warranty.
Refer to the Service Passport for complete details of Hyundai warranties.
* 3-year warranty does not apply to Genuine Hyundai Accessories installed on 2010 and prior model year vehicles. Such Accessories are warranted to be free from defect for 12 months, unlimited kilometres from installation date.
Or write a letter to John Krafcik and ask why the Canucks are like Rodney Dangerfield when it comes to the Hyundai warranty: don't get no respect, no respect at all.
http://hyundaicanada.com/pages/About/Message.aspx
I wrote a letter years ago to the then-President and CEO of HMA about my 2001 Elantra, and eventually I did get a call from someone in HMA about it. Didn't really solve the problem, but at least they followed up.
If your dealer won't investigate these noises, go to a different dealer. Also have you tried contacting Hyundai Customer Service?
Does your car have a moonroof?
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f1e9191!make=Hyundai&model=Elantra- &ed_makeindex=.f1e9191
Have you let your dealer try to find and fix the rattles?
The other thing to check if you haven't already is make sure there isn't something rattling around in the glove box or sunglasses holder or other cubbie in the dash or the door bin. I used to hear a rattle if I put my sunglasses into the overhead bin with the bows facing out (in an Elantra, btw). When I place them in with lenses out, no rattle.
Thanks,
Jeannine Fallon
Corporate Communications
Edmunds.com
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Low points were engine was a bit noisier than I would like and engine vibration transmitted into the steering wheel. Steering feel was quite remote. There were intermittent rattles in the dash center stack, and the wiper control stalk was much more complicated than it needed to be. The wiper control setup integrated with the turn signal on my 2000 Taurus is much better.
I really will miss the dual sun visor system on my Taurus when I change vehicles next, which I believe no one offers any more on any vehicle.
The GLS has 11k miles and just stalled on the road a month ago. After 3 weeks in the shop, Hyundai replaced the engine. The dealer's shop said it spun a main bearing - and said he had never seen that before. Running good now.
The Blue has a vibration in the steering wheel at cruising speed. It's bad enough to make my hands go to sleep after an hour. The dealer road force balanced all the tires/wheels and found one way out of spec and corrected it. But the vibration is still there - as bad as before. Interesting that if I push in the clutch at speed, the vibration goes away - so I'm thinking the vibration is associated with some part of the power delivery system, e.g. engine, clutch, trans, half-shafts or? Anybody got ideas of how I can explain the problem to the dealer - and how he should troubleshoot it?