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Acura MDX (pre-2007)



  • ams00ams00 Posts: 2
    In every Honda that I've driven, you have to turn on the AC for the defroster to work correctly, so you may want to try that. I'm getting my MDX this afternoon, one day to late for our "snowstorm" of last night, but hopefully I can find some DC roads that aren't yet clear (shouldn't be too difficult).
  • I'm planning a trip to Truckee(north of Tahoe) next week. Do I need(or will I be required) to put chains on the tires?
  • mdorhan, a new V8 will first appear in RL(2002?). Then it'll show up in the MDX(2003?). It'll be targeted on ML430/X5 4.4 instead of ML55/MX5.
  • I beleive you need to keep the ac ON for the system to be most effective. Actually, it is the flow of air at similar but slightly warmer temp (from the AC) that defrosts best rather actual heat coming from the air (convection process) . That's why american car defrosters (which rely on warm air to defrost) defrost ok in the middle of the windshiel but form a cloud of condensation in the periphery of the windshield. Hope this made sense.
  • mdx1mdx1 Posts: 63
    About 2-3" snow fell this morning. I went out the lunch time to start my almost 2 weeks old MDX but it wouldn't start! It took three tries to get started. I never had this problem before. The outside temperature was not too bad. It was about 34 degrees. This is the 2nd tank of gas for the car and I put in Texaco Plus (octane rating 87 here) as an experiment. The 1st tank was provided by the dealer and my salesman told me they put in Amoco premium. Let's hope this is not a regular event.

    Other than that, driving on the roads covered with some snow and some slash has been very secure without no slips or slides.
  • pocahontas, how do I pull up all the messages(#1 to the last) for a keyword search. With the new format, it only gives me up to 20 messages at a time.
  • galvanggalvang Posts: 156
    No, I do not believe you have to put chains on the MDX if snow controls are in affect(R1,R2). But you do have to carry them in your trunk in CA or get ticketed with a fine if the CHP decides to search. Your 4x4 should get you thru without chains. Some storms are coming the christmas weekend so be prepared.
  • bblahabblaha Posts: 329
    ... what the MDX's CG height is? Someone in the Rollover forum is wondering what the MDX's Static Stability Factor is.
  • wmquanwmquan Posts: 1,817
    Please note that the MDX manual specifically says not to use chains. Instead, it specifies cables. I believe you can do damage with regular chains.

    That said, it's tough to find cables to fit the MDX's relatively non-standard tire size. Tried Sears and Les Schwab (the latter being a major regional tire supplier that carries lots of chains, with very friendly refund policies on them if you don't use them), no luck. Tried a few Internet sites. Called up the Acura dealership and they wanted $80. Pricey, but since I want them in the back just in case when we go over to grandma's for Xmas, may not have any choice!
  • rxcurerxcure Posts: 33
    A few posts back you noted the stick-on "BackSee" mirror which helps when parking. Is this mirror actually so designed that it enables you to see the bumper? Where could we find one? I find this a common problem with SUV's and minivans -- it's a lot harder to gauge where your bumper is than when driving a sedan.

    Thanks for the tip
  • I ordered a DX in October. I'll probably be getting the call soon that it's ready to pick up. Last week, however, I did some extensive test-driving of Sequoias and got won-over by this big beauty. I know that the DX and Sequoia are different animals but I was really surprised by how nice of a ride the Sequoia produced. I elaborate on my decision more on a DX s. Sequoia thread on You can see it here. Good luck to everyone with your new SUV!
  • Someone probably already noticed this but my prior post got messed up by the software on this message board. The "DX" references should obvoiusly be m-d-x. wow.
  • The defroster works best with the A/C on. When I turn the dial to defrost on my Passport (I know its an Isuzu) the A/C turns on automatically.

    The A/C actually cools the air, condensing the moisture and trapping the water before it gets out of the vent. The vent blows dry air and no fogging.

    Hope that helps.
  • mdx1mdx1 Posts: 63
    On the colder winter days with the climate control set to full auto, my MDX always runs its heater fan at the maximum speed after the engine heats up. The fan blows this way for a very long time. Frequently I have to hit the fan speed button to set it to a lower speed to reduce the noise.

    Is there a way to change this default behavior to have the fan start at a lower speed in the full auto mode?
  • I picked up my Base GG today, MSRP with wheel locks and cargo tray thrown in. When I picked it up there was a slight problem with the rear hatch (the thing that hides the 3rd row headrests) not lying flush with the 3rd row seats down. It appears the hatch was slightly bowed. The dealer noted this and suggested I bring it in to a dealer closer to me so that they can order me a new one (didn't want to have to drive 90 miles again just to pick up this piece!).

    This thing drives GREAT! Computer says I averaged a little over 20 mpg (mostly freeway driving). Base stereo seemed just OK. Seats were very comfortable. I was having problems slamming the rear hatch hard enough for it to close properly. I noticed that my interior lights were not going off when I shut all the doors and it was because the rear hatch was not closed completely. Not too crazy about the parking brake but I'm sure I'll get use to it.

    I was thinking about the extended warranty but needed more time to mull this over so I didn't purchase it at the time (I'm leaning towards getting it though) The dealer wanted $1650 (no deductible) for the factory warranty which extends the warranty to 7yrs/100,000 miles What do folks think about the extended warranty? What were other folks quoted?

    Tomorrow I'm going to buy some accessories for this thing. Has anyone ordered the Fender Flares and installed these themselves? Do they just snap on/require glue? I'm also going to get the tailgate defector. Someone had mentioned a while back that it requires some drilling but that it only took them about 15 minutes to do it. Finally, has anyone bought the 6-disc CD changer that mounts underneath the driver's seat? Hopefully its already pre-wired to accommodate this.

    Thanks and Merry Christmas everyone.
  • ams00ams00 Posts: 2
    The only things that I see in the manual about the break-in period are that you should avoid full throtle and hard breaking. I didn't see anything in the MDX manual that says that you should remain below a certain speed for a certain number of miles, but I have heard people mention that here. Could someone tell me where they heard that the speed should be maintained below a certain speed for a certain number of miles and could someone tell me what is the max speed for the break-in period.
  • kenyeekenyee Posts: 738
    I bought my BackSee 8x10" lens from JC Whitney after wandering through the AutoZone and Pepboys in my area in vain. I also bought the DesignTech halogen lightbulbs for the backup lights (haven't installed them yet but sure could have used them last night on a badly lit street). I'm glad Drew told me about the BackSee. I find it very useful. When parallel parking, you know you're just about to hit the car behind you when its bumper disappears off the lens (where it's mounted on my ML...not sure how it will work on an MDX). I'll have pictures up soon along w/ a longer review if you're curious.
  • First off let me congratulate Edmunds on finding the sorriest posting software available :) This stuff logs you out *quickly* when trying to post a message THEN requires you to buzz around there site to log back on to try and post a message again ... go figure???????

    Thanks everyone for your responses and suggestions regarding using the AC in conjunction with the defroster. Seems goofy to me to be running the AC w/the heat on during the winter time as a default setting for the defrost. I've never owned a car *that made that decision for you* ... and don't like it. I've used the AC intermittently with other cars in the past and it will pretty much clear up the "fogged" areas immediately but generally I can leave it off and just run the heat up the windshield and that works fine -- that's in my other cars of course -- NOT the MDX. Perhaps it's because the windshield is SO big.

    My original posting was more of an observation that the heat level and vent direction IS inadequate for melting ice off the windshield and side windows while the vehicle is in motion. Having the AC on could not possibly assist in clearing this exterior ice; although it probably would have some impact on "defogging" all areas of the interior of the windshield -- separate problem. The other point was the fact the wipers seem to be mounted too low to benefit from the heat produced by the defrost system. Generally the wipers will lay in a position high enough on the windshield that they will be directly above the air flow of the defroster vents -- resulting in heating the wiper blade and melting any ice that has formed on them. SUCH is not the case w/the MDX -- the blades are too low. If you have frozen crap on your blades --- enjoy it cause your defroster isn't going to melt it -- and when you need to use your wipers to wash away all the road muck that has splashed up on your windshield -- foget it cause they will be covered w/ice and will streak the windshield bigtime. So the question is ... has any one else experienced this OR am I just a big moron who has been driving for 27 years and can't figure out how to use my wipers and defroster correctly?
  • kkuetkkuet Posts: 28
    no, you're a moron. just joking. i know what you're talking about, but all of my cars i've ever driven have problems with the wipers in real heavy snow. don't know what to tell you.
  • wmquanwmquan Posts: 1,817

    It shouldn't have problems starting under the conditions you described (e.g. it should start on the first try). Another poster here mentioned starting in much colder conditions in Minnesota, with no problems. Perhaps you might want to get it checked at your dealership?


    Don't know what to say, so far we haven't seen similar complaints from others driving in even harsher conditions. But maybe someone will peep up, along with their solution.
  • Thanks for earlier posts regarding chains and California requirements. Just so that I fully understand, if you are driving up to Tahoe and are required to carry chains, does the CAP require you to have chains for all 4 wheels or are chains for 2 wheels sufficient??
  • I'm pretty sure that only chains for one axle are required; that's all a 2wd vehicle needs to have for R2.

    I've never been checked for the presence of chains at one of the checkpoints (Toyota Previa AWD, Range Rover, Subaru), and I've never been in any situation on the principal roads where I ever felt like chains were needed.

    Regarding getting the right size chains/cables for the MDX - you only actually need to put them on when conditions get to R3, and, as I understand it, the highways are usually closed by then. I suspect that you'll never actually put them on (unless you live up there and need to be out and about in the most severe conditions), and I also suspect that the CHP would never check to see if the sizes of the chains match the wheels/tires. So....
  • zonnzonn Posts: 9
    I too am new to driving an SUB and I was intrigued with Kenyee's response to your post about lane changes and getting used to the larger size of this vehicle. Kenyee wrote that in addition to adding the BackSee, he adjusted his mirrors according to what he read in a book by Curt Rich. I wanted to know what this adjustment was and I found this article. Although this method may not be the same as the one in the book, it might help. Here is the method.

    Now there is a remarkable simple solution discovered by an engineer named George Platter. He presented his method at the prestigious Society of Automotive Engineers. The National Safety Council tested his theory and discovered, to their amazement, that it works! The method has been tested and fully endorsed by the National Safety Council as described in their September/October issue of Traffic Safety. Here's how it works.

    First, forget how we learned to adjust our outside mirrors by plopping behind the steering wheel and turning the mirrors so that we just saw the side of our car looking back at us in the mirrors. Instead, adjust the driver's side mirror by resting your head against the driver's side window and then turning the mirror so that you just see the side of your car. Once this is set, move to the center of the vehicle and turn the passenger side mirror so that you can just see the side of your car from the center of the vehicle. That's it. You won't see your own car in either mirror, yet what you will see is far better. Cars behind you show up as usual in the inside rear view mirror above the dash, but the instant the car leaves your field of vision from the rear view mirror the outside mirror picks it up. No. blind spot; no delays; no wondering where that car about to pass you has disappeared to--and no waiting a few seconds for the car that you just saw in your rearview mirror to show up in your outside mirrors. All three mirrors work in harmony with one another, and the blind spot has been eliminated!

    I'll try this myself. Kenyee, if your method is different, let us know!
  • zonnzonn Posts: 9
    It also changes S.U.V to SUB
  • kenyeekenyee Posts: 738
    Yep. That's it the technique. Curt mentioned it in one of his newsletters as a quote from his book, but I couldn't remember which one.
    It works very well for the ML's blind spots which are worse than the MDX's IMHO. The BackSee lens fixes the blind spot that's covered by the hatch for the most part unless someone/thing is resting directly on your bumper.
    p.s., you could avoid using the Spell Checker...people always wonder why I never have a spell checker installed on my system ;-)
  • galvanggalvang Posts: 156
    Agree with coastal that two wheels are suffiecient for cables. Cables only please for MDX, no chains. I have been in a couple sitiuations where the CHP has checked if I was carring chains. And happily pointed out to them. Most of the time they don't check and also for sizes when they do.

    R3 conditions means that you have to have cables/chains including 4-wheel drive and I do beleive its all four wheels. After driving for many years in the sierras I have yet to drive under R3 chain controls even in the worst of blizzards.

    Here is the official CALTRANs winter page that talks about the r1,r2,r3 chain controls. For some tips check it out.
  • Thanks a lot for this forum. I've learned a lot here and is a daily reader. I have been watching the news about MDX for quite a few months and bought my MDX w/ navigation two weeks ago at MSRP. So far I love it a lot. If anyone needs to know more about the experience to drive the new MDX, feel free to ask me questions.

    BTW, can somebody educate me what IMHO is?
  • canadianclcanadiancl Posts: 1,078
    It means In my humble opinion or In my honest opinion.
    What car did you own previous to the MDX? Do you find the width of the MDX a handful when parking? Does it feel car-like. I currently own a 2001 CL-S, and I've got the itch to perhaps trade-up to get the all-weather capability of the MDX but I'm concern that I would miss the smooth power of the CL-S.
  • Thanks for the meaning of IMHO.
    I drove Accord94 EX and used to park it with my wife's BMW328i in the garage. Now after the DX, I am out. Fortunately we have a NV parking space next to the garage, so far DX is there over night.
    Ye, the DX is wide. As it's still brand new, I have to park a mile away if the space is narrow. For bigger space like in Costco, I don't need to do it.
    Comparing with those Subs (Sequoia, 4Runner, QX4, Explorer sports Track) I drove (or test-drove) before, DX is much car-like. But DX 300 is a little better than MDX, just IMHO. The 01 CL-S? can't be compared with MDX in car-like. MDX is power smoothy but bumpier than most sedans for sure. But I like the feeling.
  • Sorry canadiancl, the above msg is for you. Forgot to put your name in.
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