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Comments
Jiffy Lube charges $50-60 or so for a Mobile 1 change and I doubt Toyota would be far behind. At Costco, Mobil 1 5-30 goes for approx $4.50-$5.00 per quart.
The Mobil 1 was an addl suggestion and the previous cost didnt include cost of parts (oil in this case). Costco sells Mobil 1 5w30 (6qts) for about $25.
BTW I change every 7500 miles.
So.
The dome/map light fixture assembly, dome, and separately switched right and left map/reading lamps, from the Ford Aerostar fit nicely in place of the dome light just behind the front seats.
Ford P/Ns
1L3Z-13776-AAB lamp [non-permissible content removed]'y inc bulbs.
F5TZ-13783-A lens
Comes in black only but Rust-Oleum "textured sandstone" spray paint is an almost perfect match for an ivory interior.
Two new mounting holes need to be drilled.
The Aerostar [non-permissible content removed]'y has four mounting holes and some have electrical connection functionality also. The one nearest the driver's seat is used to pick up a circuit grnd (used self tapping sheet metal screw) to the map light switches and the one to the rear and diagonally across from it needs a plastic 10/24 screw to avoid an electrical connection. Two screws seems to work satisfactorily.
There is an OEM two wire connector, one side carrying +12 volts (always "live", you'll need to be careful not to leave map light switches on). The other side is driven by a solid state current sink circuit to switch the dome light on and dim it slowly to off.
You can stop here or:
I used two diodes, a PNP darlington transistor and a resistor so that all three lamps illuminate and extinguish (slowly) simultaneously.
Transister NTE271, Ic=10A Hfe= 1000 Min.
Diodes NTE5801, PRV=100, 3A
Resistor 1K ohm at 2W
Frye's Electronics
Collector to grnd, emitter to dome bulb "low", and diode cathodes. Anodes of diodes to low side of map bulbs. Base connected to OEM current sink source and resistor. Other resistor end connected to +12 volts.
All three bulbs then illuminate with open door and extinguish slowly together. Extra illumination of front seating area at night is quite helpful and map bulbs can still be operated individually with the switches embedded in the assembly.
Do not try to energize all three bulbs from the OEM current sink source. Lighted current draw is only about 3A, 10W/bulb, but the instantaneous current draw for three "COLD" bulbs might be 10 or 15 amps and I do not know what the OEM current sink source capability is.
Now when we realize the GPS/Nav is leading, has led, us astray at night my wife can freely consult a map without interfering with my forward vision.
Have you ever considered applying for work over at Fox News, I hear Bill O'Reilly could use some help, being only one person speaking for all.
That way I know which direction the administration is spinning....
Thanks
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/cars/msg0122241726983.html?2- - 8789
"One of the many things new drivers aren't fully prepared to deal with; so sad (referring to the fatal accident in Connecticut related to windshield fogging, bad weather, oncoming glare, inexperienced 16-yr old driver, GM SUV, no Denso HVAC, etc)...I haven't had the problem as much since I got educated (how to use A/C, heat, and defrost controls) in this forum..."
Pure and simple, it's operator error - not knowing what to do when the windshield fogs up.
Or, by gosh, it could be that ol' Darwin thing again...
The light is indicating that my rear light bulbs need to be replaced. I have checked all the bulbs and they are all fine. What could be wrong?
Hmm.... I am wondering if it is due to impending bulb failure. My wife has a Saab 95 and the same thing with the warning light happened. About one week later, the bulb blew out. My old 1999 Camry did the same thing too.
Take care!
Pete
BTW, I added aftermarket sunroof deflector, took roof rack off and put back on, not much difference in noise level that I could tell.
Thanks
I believe they have two a year at same time each year.
Thanks
Any color. Is that a good deal. I am looking for
a AWD. What did you pay ?
When where you offered that price? Generally I would say its pretty good but remember, there is now a $1500 manufacturer to dealer incentive.
I think the Michelin $60 deal was sometime in Jan. However, instead of waiting for it, you could get the tires from OnlineTires.com or TireRack.com right now and the prices might be cheaper than Costco. Costco will mount and balance themfor $9/tire.
Michelin is also offering a free Palm Zire with the purchase of 4 tires - regardless of where you buy it from.
jjj18- What made you pay $5,800 on a year diff and AWD/Heated setas? Any sudden need for AWD?
Willard - How ya been? I still try to keep up with the board but not as much any more. Still enjoy reading your posts - keep up the good work.
Now, I know what you're going to say: "The only true HID systems are the ones installed OEM". "If you don't have self-leveling you are not truly legal and can be a hazard to on-coming drivers".
Yeah, yeah - I know. BUT they are really nice! Not as great as the OEMs' but perform WAY beyond the stock halogens by FAR! I like 'em very very much. I made a few adjustments to aim them a little lower and more to the side of the road, especially on the passenger side lamp. Seems like a good work around. I've even driven behind and toward police cars and they didn't even look back! I'm also not getting "flashed" by on-coming traffic as if I had the high beams on. So AFAIK I'm good.
It's a pretty easy installation. Took me roughly 1.5 hr only because I was really taking my time and photographing the install as I went along. If I had to do it on another RX-300, I could probably knock it out in 30 mins.
This is one mod I've been wanting to do for a long while and I'm very glad I did! Wish I had done it a long time ago! (although pricing wasn't that great just a few years ago) Lights are very bright and typical Xenon white. They say they will get "bluer" after an initial 100 hr burn-in period. Not that I care about the color - I just wanted better lighting.
Here's the picts of the install. Have a look and let me "hear" anyone's thoughts
http://www.stickypix.com/showgallery.php?thumb=1&cat=500&- si=&perpage=20&sort=7&cat=500&ppuser=529
Where I you though it would be the driver's side (closest to on-coming traffic) that I would aim low and to the right and the passenger's side more straight and up.
I try to aim my low beam headlamps so the passenger's side hits the "fog line" at a reasonable distance forward and then with the driver's side hitting the "fog line" at about the mid-point.
I have listed the changes along with how much manufacturers typically charge for them individually as an option and how much they mean to me (this could differ for you).
Change MSRP Imp
Engine 10hp; 20lb-ft 300 150
18" Tires & Wheels 1200 600
5 Speed transmission 250 250
2+mpg Highway 100 100
Rain Sensing Wipers 300 200
3 More Airbags 500 500
Integrated Foglamps 200 100
Tire Pressure Sys 800 200
Dual Zone Clim Ctrl 300 100
40-20-40 Seat 200 50
Steering Audio Ctrls 200 200
Power Rear Door 600 300
w/ Automatic Tonneau Cover
Better Leather 200 100
---------------------------------------
TOTAL 5150 2850
-------------------------------------
Now you can also add stuff you dont like about the 330 which could be
Lesser rear view
Fake aluminum
Grill Gap
Seating for petite ladies
...
and subtract the value.
The difference between the RX330 ($41,600) and RX300 ($39,900) is $1,700 which is much less than all the additional features.
Just wondering- what are the features that we would like to be added to the RX330 in the forthcoming years? (Apart from more flexible packaging of options)
My list
Keyless Go
Cartridge Based CD Changer - I dont think this will ever happen though
8 Way front passenger seat and maybe 14 way for the driver though 8 is still good
Memory for the front passenger
Mp3 Player/Capability
Silver Sport edition with real aluminium all over instead of wood/fake Al
Solar Cells to keep it cool w Big [non-permissible content removed] Moonroof
F/R native torque distribution of 30/70 or even 50/50. RX330's brake apportioned torque distribution cannot be made fully functional with torque predominantly front wheel biased.
Love the new monotone exterior but now we're stuck with steering wheel and front panel two-tone effect. One of the turn-offs for the X5 for me. What was wrong with the RX300 interior styling in this respect?
Ability to (momentarily) over-ride cruise control by simply moving the foot feed away from neutral when my nerves warrant. Easily overcome that feeling of not being in control when your mind says you may be entering that next curve just a tad too fast.
Integrated fog lamps that aren't just for "show", can be used without headlamps being on.
Inexpensive tire pressure system like the OLDs Alero using the ABS wheel speed sensors.
A Delphi climate control system that senses the seriousness of a declining windshield dewpoint spread and automatically takes corrective action.
Or even a newly designed Denso climate control system that goes to max heat and max blower the instant I activate the defrost/defog/demist function. And while we're dreaming here, a denso design that takes radiant heating/cooling "human comfort" factors into consideration and does not discomfort me and my passengers by "spraying" us with cool and dry airflow on the coldest day of the dead of winter.
And what about a nice low displacement highly economical supercharged 4 cylinder engine? Using a variable speed hydraulically driven supercharger powered by the (otherwise wasted)excess flow from the power steering pump? SC speed could be controlled to "just" match the engine's sealevel atmospheric pressure breathing/intake needs unless some level of acceleration is called for.
And/or use the otherwise wasted power steering fluid flow to drive the A/C compressor, the alternator, the water pump, and the engine oil lubricating pump.
Power steering pumps are positive displacement and must be sized so as to pump enough volume/pressure at idle to overcome static steering forces. Driving straight down the road at 3000 RPM lots of HP is wasted as heat as the fluid is pressurized and then simply ported back into the power steering sump.
An ACTIVE (integral exhaust blower) exhauster port with a auxiliary, separate, battery (solar and/or system {re}charged) that activates the blower if:
1. The interior temperature exceeds the exterior temperature by more that 10F. The OAT sensor would need to be moved from its current location just in front of a potentially HOT radiator and A/C condensor.
2. 60 minutes have elapsed since the ignition was shut down and the A/C was used during the previous operations. Exhaust blower would run until measured flow-through humidity "bump" declines. Prevent mold and mildew formation within the A/C evaporator plenum chamber and random instances of sudden onset of windshield fogging during next "startup".
3. For ten minutes immediately after A/C is used to facilitate additional defrost/defog/demist capability. When A/C is used, and then turned off, in this manner a thin film of moisture will almost always be left on the evaporator surfaces. Activating the exhauster's blower would help to prevent subsequent windshield fogging as a result of this thin film evaporating into the incoming airstream but with no unrestricted or substantive outflow path.
And finally...
An engine oil filter location that isn't so......
Pete
I think you're right about the other side tho. I think I'd like a more upward tilt on the passenger side to get more illumination of the side of the road and farther down the road. I should really start over and try to document what I'm doing to come up with a better starting point to make more "exact" adjustments / re-adjustments. Then I'll adjust them to what I think will be better for me and then back off if it seems too extreme. But as it sits now I'm apparently not bothering people with the lamps (knock wood!) I'll experiment with it.
As far as the parts etc. - I purchased them at HIDS4Less.com. This is a 9006 Stage I kit with Philips 4300 Kelvin bulbs, Philips Ballasts and all wiring for a "plug and play" install. The Philips products are Germany made and are probably the best kits available. The first pict in my previous post shows the entire package I rec'd.
Other kits that show "HID Look" bulbs are simply expensive Halogen bulbs with some blue tint on them. They are NO WHERE near HID! Don't waste your money. Those bulbs don't last as long as stock halogens either! And be very careful of the "great deals" at E-Bay (and other places) on these kinds of lamp systems. There are many garbage packages out here claiming to be the "real thing"! Be sure to buy a top quality system with a grantee and tech support. As I understand it - PIAA also makes an HID kit but they do not import it to the US (for some reason).
On pricing: I got into a "Group Buy" through a Volvo web site. My SO (significant other) has a '99 Volvo S70 and I keep track of Volvo related info on her behalf - and also on mine since I'm a big fan of Volvo! With that said, I'd really don't want to comment on the price since it wouldn't be fair to compromise the seller. The group buy pricing was established after they rec'd 12 or more commitments to buy thereby making a very good price offer. The Stage I kits sell at HIDS4Less for $499.99 retail. I'd say that if you're interested, call them and see if they can offer you a better price.
http://www.hids4less.com/www/index.asp
Here's the kit that I purchased:
http://www.hids4less.com/www/search/details.asp?product_id=6
The Stage II kit is $699.99 - but you really don't want that one. The Stage II uses 6000 Kelvin lamps are WAY too bright for normal road use and will probably result in "closer examination" from the authorities!
The installation on the RX-300 is pretty cut and dry. Unplug the stock bulbs, wire it up, plug in the new bulbs and wire tie the ballasts to (where ever you can find room!). I am going to be doing an install this weekend on the Volvo S70 with H7 bulbs that will be much more involved. The lamp housing has to be trimmed with a Drimmel tool where the bulb attaches to the back. To give you a very good example of what's involved in an installation, here's a Volvo site showing in great detail of an install. It is showing the very same system that I bought for the Lexus. Note that they are saying it will take approx 2 - 3 hrs to install - because of the required cutting and fit-up:
http://www.volvospeed.com/Mods/hids.htm
This web site is really fantastic for Volvo owners! They have very detailed instructions with photos on all kinds of maintenance, repair, specifications and modifications for Volvo cars. Kudos to these folks for such a great place for Volvo enthusiasts! Just sniff around in here to see what I mean:
http://www.volvospeed.com/bay13.htm
Now - I am having some trouble with the passenger side lamp not firing consistently. Once it's lit - it stays lit but I have to switch it on / off a few times to get it to fire. The tech service guys at HIDS4Less have helped me through this and had me remove the DRL fuse disabling them. Yeah - I know - the DRLs are not the same bulb, but apparently they are aware that these can cause problems with the kit on this and many other cars. This worked - but now I have no DRLs. The high beams still work tho. That brings me to another point that I'll post in a few minutes.
But I'd say this mod is well worth it! It's not just for Willard's "old eyes". It's for old, new, brown or blue eyes! This is a technology that will be coming on very fast as people drive a car with them! They say that once you drive with them - you'll never go back. It really is THAT good!
A while ago you made a mod to your DRL / fog lamps. I think I'd like to make that same mod. Especially now that my DRLs are disabled. Besides - I'm with you on the dumb idea that the fogs shouldn't work unless the headlights are on! Makes no sense. I figure if I could use the fogs as DRL and leave the high beams alone it would be a great package.
If you wouldn't mind, could you tell me where you wrote that modification up?
Thanks!
12 volt spst relay with the coil inserted into series with the drl circuit. 12V through the N.O. contacts to fog lamp circuit.
If you need more let me know.
BTW - can't find the topic at CL. Probably could if I felt like weasling thru 100s of posts I guess!
thanks
DRL circuit is disabled once headlamps are on. Normal fog circuit still works with low beams and off with highs.
Probably should change the oil in the lawn mower and cut the grass tho.
Only if you had them done by a 3rd party are you likely to be SOL.
Dealer will have them rechromed if there's no other unrepairable damage to the rim. In the meanwhile, they usually mount and balance your tires on a different set of the same style chromed wheels and you're good to go.
One correction, It's not illegal to use fogs and parking/tail lamps together, only.
It may be illegal to have "fogs" on without parking/tail, that makes more sense. But I doubt anyone would be ticketed for use of fogs as DRLs.
Otherwise it seems DRLs themselves would be illegal.