By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
I don't believe there was an '03 MY. The 2nd gen '04 RX330 was introduced in '03, with more/different bugs than the '00-'02's had. I think they got better again in '05, and then later the RX350, which had a lot of improvements. But any year/model you could get a really nice car, as long as you aren't looking for sharp handling.
And it's pretty easy to add additional tranny cooling. And have fluid changes done with the right fluid (not corner lube and tune-up places!) as previously said.
If the seller has records, that's great, but if it only has 22,000 real miles, it's doubtful the pan's ever been dropped for proper service, and there could be stuff to look for on a car that sat so much without daily use and/or only went a few city miles at a time! Oh, by the way on a car that sat, especially look for all power locks to work smoothly, good battery, and oil changes at proper intervals regardless of mileage.
Not sure if your comment was meant for me or not. "not corner lube and tune-up places!) as previously said." If not, I apologize for assuming. By no means do I recommend chain lube places or non researched private mechanics. Mine has been great for twenty years, builds and races race cars, and uses only the proper parts and fluids. You don't need to pay dealer prices to have the correct fluids put in your car or receive good maintenance. He has taken great care of all 3 of my vehicles. Didn't mean to get off topic and your other points are excellent observations.
Ken
If your corner mechanic uses the right stuff and is competent and reliable, that's what you want. I meant the remark in only helpful, general terms; no offense was meant, or taken. Yeah, although still worthwhile, a Lexus dealer charges a lot for transmission service, when you can get it elsewhere. I usually use the same reliable Toyota dealer (Hamer in Mission Hills, CA) or transmission shop where I've gone for years. Also as a heads-up for some, mine unexpectedly needed more than the three or four quarts it's supposed to need after a change. I think mine took 5 after the fluid (not torque converter) change for service. They ran short. Maybe because it's a newer model transmission.
Cost being an issue, I'm a DIY, but I don't think you'll save a lot DIY, after the retail cost of fluid, filter, and gasket, having to dispose of your own, etc. I think they earn the labor charge, if reasonable. But in this car, I'll only go a year or two (and I have extra cooling) before changing the tranny fluid. But if anyone is interested, this guy (I don't know him) has excellent advice and shows step - by - step the transmission fluid change, as well as lots of great info on RX300's:
link title
You mentioned "Silversport Edition" and "Coach" edition. How would I tell whether the one I am considering is one of these additions?
Also, do you know the dealer cost to add the transmission cooler?
thank you.
Can you expand on your comment about a smart dealer disconnecting the battery. I didn't really follow that. Would this reset the engine memory so that it adapted to a new purchaser? Would the dealer charge for this?
Please explain and thanks.
I thought that was the case. My mechanic is great, I'm lucky.
Thanks for the RX How To sight link. I found that a few years back and learned how to change the in cabin air filter. But, lost the site. I re-bookmarked it. Great info.
Ken
The Silversport had sportier interior trim and grille, perforated leather seats, sportier steering wheel, body colored rack cross bars, and a "sport" suspension (whatever that means from Lexus on RX300) with different stabilizers & struts. It also had exterior badging, but alas you have to supply your own luggage. I think it was only available in single-toned Millenium Silver or black, with carbon interior. Personally, I like the silver...
I'm not sure what the dealer would charge to add an additional tranny cooler. "Trailer Towing" prep option packages were included on almost all models, which included an auxilery cooler that's proven to be too small for most driving/maintainence styles, even without towing. :sick:
A transmission shop could add one; I wouldn't think it would be more than $100 installed, but I haven't checked. The shop I had my last service done recommended I add one, because he didn't see what I had done. When I showed him what I added, he said that was better than what he was thinking about, but good that I used that style, and very helpful for extended durability on RX300. They would have installed in front of the radiator/condenser. But Lexus specifically advised me against that, saying Toyota designs against the heat going back to the radiator.
I purchased a compact, stacked-plate (54 plate) cooler called a "Defender" from a camper store a long while back for about $50. I installed it myself in front of the factory auxilery cooler in the RF fender, and easily cut the exit vent holes larger with an exacto. Easy enough; the hardest part was bending some brackets to use the stock mounts so I didn't have to drill. I also used the zip-tie style mounts, again very easy.
Then, for an extra measure of redundant security, I added a small fan from an old motorcycle radiator in the inner fender blowing through the coolers, and an add-on Hayden adjustable thermostat from Pep Boys. It didn't take much tinkering, and the installation doesn't have to look good because it's inside the fender where you can't see it.
Since doing that, my fluid has not been getting "burned" from temperature surges. I only notice the tranny fan after stopping the engine after stop & go or idling. I hope it helps, and I've found it couldn't hurt, and was not too much bother for me. :shades:
Disconnecting the battery will reset many of the "learned" parameters back to the factory defaults and then it might take several days, ~500 miles, of driving before the parameters are "relearned" yet again.
And "this", the above, has absolutely NOTHING to do with purchaser/driver "learned" parameters, driving style/type.
My conclusion is, has been, that the issue of the ATF overheating is localized, overheated within a very small section of the transaxle, and then when subsequently "remixed" with the bulk of ATF in the sump then on the average the ATF temperature is well within acceptable range.
Also, while I haven't actually looked I suspect there is some sort of thermostat in line with the extrenal ATF cooler taht restricts flow unless the ATF temperature is up to, or even slightly above, operational range.
So, since it appears that on the average the ATF temperature never rises to a detrimental level I just don't see how additional external cooling would help.
I suppose one could re-rig the ATF thermostat to allow a lower temperature external cooling flow level but then might the ATF be continuously operating below proper operational temperature..??
My guess is that the '01-03 RX300 models (and possibly mid-year '00) have an oversized ATF gear pump to compensate for the "abolition" of the ATF pressure holding accummulator and that's what, where, the ATF is being overheated.
If you own an '01-'03 RX300 I would suggest as a minimum keeping a close watch on the ATF condition and do a drain/flush/refill when it begins to look and/or small burned.
If you happen to remove the gas cap without refueling, only slightly refueling, or do not fully tighten the gas cap after refueling you will get evaporative emissions fault codes.
Once you correct the problem, say tighten the gas cap, the faults will go out after a few "drive cycles".
my wife says it has sluggish performance but i do not think so...
any comments?? especially from w west, thank you!!!
The level of (in)competence at the service shops, Lexus especially, is such that you are likely to come away with more/additional problems that you went in with.
Lexus dealer's service shops only have one MARQUE to rely on for service needs and as luck would have it that one marque turns out to be extremely reliable.
So, why should the dealer's pay a premium wage to retain competent help when most of the work involves simple routine, REPETITIVE, work and many McD graduates are (presumably) qualified...??
Obviously I'm voting for mis-timing of the new belt.
My guess is you are more likely hearing the difference in pressure from a new, tight belt on the older more worn moving parts (idler bearings, a/c clutch, etc.) from the drive belts being replaced. A slight difference in pitch might be normal.
There could be other reasons for slightly more sluggish performance from the replacement of the timing belt other than mistiming it; other maintenance items that are now showing their weakness or need for adjustment. Or simply that it sounds different giving the impression of a change in performance.
As Mr. West points out, there's always a possibility the mechanic failed to re affix a vacume or breather hose (which you would hear and likely affect performance slightly), an electronic connector, or something else fairly simple.
I don't find Lexus mechanics on the average any less competent than any other ASE mechanics (actually maybe a little better than others), but being a DIY I always make a good visual inspection and have found things forgotten before. There definately are Lexus shops I stay away from, so like anything else, your experience may vary from one time to another.
Once long ago at a Toyota dealer I trusted (not this car) I drove off the lot after routine maintainence, and pulled over to do my check. I opened the hood and found a rag where it could have been caught by the fan belt, a screwdriver resting on the front radiator brace which would have fallen in, and a mirror the mechanic used to see up from underneath.
Independent shops tend to be much worse, or sometimes more careful. I think it just depends on their work load and QC.
Pete
since i have read all of these posts thru the years!!! Took it out today and it seems to perform fine.. yet at idle the engine sounds louder when i open the hood and listen to it.. maybe it is the tighter new belt(s) vs the 91,000 mile original belts?
Additionally many Toyota dealers have multiple marques for sales/service whereas Lexus never allows that insofar as I know.
On the other hand when my '78 911 was retrofitted with the hydraulic chain tensioners I didn't get off the lot before turning around to go back and ask if the NEW noise was proper.
On yet another (third..??) hand a mis-timed timing belt would undoubtedly result in a different "noise" signature.
Learn something new every day.
"My guess..." "oversized ATF gear pump.."
Was probably, most likely WRONG.
All Lexus needed to do was raise the PWM duty cycle, power level, to the solenoid controlling the ATF line pressure so line pressure was held at a higher pressure level CONSTANTLY. That would allow them to prevent the premature clutch failures being experienced with the '99 and '00 models but would also result in a higher overall heating level of the ATF for the '01-03 MY. Obviously Lexus knew in advance about, and attempted to compensate, for the higher heating level by including the towing package on all '01-03 RX300's.
Brake pads are good. Not needing to replace those.
As a rule I replace worn out pads 2 or 3 times before I get the rotors turned.
What are your opinions on buying something of that age?
Thanks
To avoid the premature transaxle failures of the '99 (&'00..??) models the '01-03 series uses a higher sustained ATF line pressure and that results in localized heating of the ATF, heating above the original design parameters.
As a result the factory maintainance schedule, ATF drain and refill, for my AWD '01 was revised from infinity to every 15,000 miles.
As of '04, the RX330, DBW was adopted to alleviate the problem of engine torque rising for "re-acceleration" before there was enough line pressure to fully and firmly seat the downshifting clutches.
Have the vehicle inspected by a knowledgeable mechanic.
Regardless, it's likely a good used car, depending on the deal. If the deal's good enough, you will be able to justify replacing a transmission, should it be a problem. Don't pay extra for extraordinarily low mileage.
Make sure the engine sludge issue is not present.
I have a 2002 with 112k on it. 70% highway though. Change the tranny fluid every 25k, since I put about 18k a year on it. If I don't change it at 25k it gets pretty dirty. That said, the car runs like new, Literally.
Good Luck on the purchase,
Ken
flashgordonsd
In that setting the various sensors are ignored and the servomotor drives the mixing vane/door into the FULL HEAT position.
Low engine coolant or a recent drain/fill of same..??
Air bubble, "vapor lock" in the hose to/from the heat exchanger is not unusual.
's servomotor drives
You can then remove the white exit vent tube and see the trap door open and close as you adjsut temp control.
There is a door which is almost up against the heater coil and as you will see, this door open and close to compensate for max or min heat levels.
My next two projects:
1. Replace weak RR door lock solenoid.
2. Replace struts.
If you have a link, that would be great.
Thanks folks...
I'm curious if anyone has found any suspension upgrades (other than tires) or found aftermarket struts (like KYB or TRD) made a significant difference. What fits? Please, please, please.
I'm thinking it's finally time for new struts. But I'd love to find upgraded sway bar links to replace the unusually frail, long stock links.
For the door lock solenoid, others have used a generic one from ebay for about $10. They piggyback it on to the existing one, leaving it in place. They then use a wire tap to connect to the one wire necessary necessary to operate the solenoid. The original one in your RX has many wires attached to it as it performs various functions. That's why it must be left in place or replaced with another of the same. The solenoid from Lexus is about $300. and others have complained about the replacement failing again in a few years.
I've purchased parts from various online Ford dealers and have been pleased with the service and deep discounts. I will have to try this with newlexusparts.com and irontoad.com and I'll search for others. With Ford parts you can look online and many times find a copy of fiche or drawings to match up parts. I don't remember if that's so with Lexus parts. Also, I've needed very few Lexus parts in advance compared to the Fords.
Your suggestion to use a generic door lock solenoid is really top notch. I had narrowmindedly assumed I needed to remove the old one and replace with the factory part, but was disappointed to find it's sold only as a whole expensive latch assembly. It was not too hard, but it was an awkward process. A generic might be the best trick so rather than do it myself this time. I will try going to an alarm installer and ask them to disable the factory solenoid and install a generic one to provide the same function. That will preserve the factory security, as long as it latches and unlatches positively.
Yeah, it's common lock solenoids go bad. Too bad they aren't sold separately by Lexus. I had the driver's and one of the rear doors go bad, covered under warrantee. And out of warrantee I had to replace the driver's latch/lock/solenoid combo myself, a PITA. The rear door has been getting lazy as my car sits a lot between uses for road trips. I'm now driving it less than 3000 m/yr, but not short trips. A couple years ago, I took it out and vacumed and cleaned it, put in some spray lube, and it worked fine till a few months ago.
I'll look at Lexus Owners club, etc. and see what others have to share about using a generic solenoid.
Thanks again for the very useful info.
Happy New Year everyone.
Happy New Year
Is there any suggestion for the caring?
Thank you in advance for the the reply,
Ratha
Ps: my email is rathahuot@yahoo.com
Service specific to the transmission includes transmission fluid and filter change by dropping the pan (rather than "flush") and inspection of the old filter and sediment in the pan. If not at a Toyota/Lexus dealer, let them know you want refill with the proper type IV fluid (not generic Dextron/Mercron like most shops stock, they may need to order it ahead with the filter kit).
For more ideas, search the RX300 Transmission thread of this discussion. For example link title
And report back to share your experience, good or bad. Most people don't post positive comments, instead most of what you see posted are complaints.
Good luck with yours.
The '99 and early '00 RX300 models appear to have a transaxle design flaw that results in premature transaxle failures in as little as 70-80,000 miles. Insofar as I have been able to learn Lexus has NEVER addressed the problem of the design flaw for these MY's. Only offering, sometimes, to partially compensate owners for repair costs.
If the 2000 RX300 you have purchased has the towing package that will be something/somewhat of a good indication that it is one of the late 2000 model year RX300's.
Once Lexus discovered, came to realize, the nature of the design flaw the corrective action/FIX appears to have been to change the transaxle's firmware so the line control hydraulic pressure is always kept up to a higher pressure level than the original design specifications called for. That resulted, of course, in more heating of the ATF than was expected with the original design pressure and so most, if not all, future vehicles were shipped with the optional (NOT..!!) tow package which included the auxiliary external ATF cooling.
It appears that this technique, "patchwork" fix, continued up until DBW, E-throttle was adopted for the RX330 series. DBW could be, was used, to delay the onset of engine torque when a transaxle gear change was required and ATF line pressure was not sufficient. DBW was used to "enforce" a delay in the onset of raising engine torque long enough for the line pressure to be pumped up to an acceptable level for fully and firmly seating the clutches for the upcoming gear change.
I don't know yet if it could be only good till 7-800, 00 miles. I've just changed the ATF and the mechanician said everything looks alright even the old ATF still look pink. After changed we test driving and it runs well.
Hope it could be last longer otherwise I'll be