Yep similar concept. Having seen Matt's work from Independent4x, and having owned a small business, I like to support the little guys. There are a few distinct advantages over the Rhino bar on matts:
1) Custom built for the Trooper, the bar is elevated up so that the top of the step/bar is level with the built-in step of the trooper.
2) Rhino Bar comes straight out of the hitch receiver, this will result in a much lower bar than that of Independent 4xs, providing less protection from higher vehicles
3) I am willing to bet that they don't use 1/4" thick walled steel tubing, not even my reese receiver-shank rated at 6500lbs towing capacity uses steel that thick.
4) Spare Tire protection. The Rhino bar does not stick out nearly as far as Matt's does, so it will nor provide nearly as much protection to your spare-tire/door.
5) Width. My bar ends exactly where the door openings end on the trooper 54" wide, which provides protection for the corners over your bumper from parrallel parking incidences.
6) Custom built. GPM had his bar made 60" wide, and a longer shank on it so that it sticks out further than my 54" bar, also had stops built into the shaft so that it cannot be pushed through the hitch. Basically Matt will make it however *You* want it, so long as it doesn't vary too much from the original design.
Also Independent 4x is dedicated to the Isuzu Community. He was just out in Moab at the big Isuzu get-together, he come off-roading with Isuzu guys, and actually owns a '91 Trooper. That said I don't see how the Rhino bar is any better than matt's. Contact him http://independent4x.com
The rhino bar looks nice though and doesn't look like it would be bad. Paison's bar looks like it would offer more 5 mph bumper crash protection, i.e. stop people and things from pushing the spare tire in.
How about rear bumpers? I would rather just replace the stock with something stronger. ARB offers one, but it is nowhere near the caliber of their roo-bar.
I think matt's working on a front and rear bumpers for 3rd Generation Trooper. He has them for the 1st gen already and should just need to adapt them for 2nd/3rd gen once someone orders one.
http://www.harvestadsdepot.com/~ajint/classifieds/auto/ There is the link for the add for an S model Trooper for under 21,000 dollars. I should know, I got one there. If the link doesn't work, go to www.ajcclassifieds.com, then to ajc cars and the next screen click on View Automotive featured advertisers. I got to pick which one I wanted, so there isn't a hook with, "oh, we sold that model already", type deal. I wouldn't worry about Edmunds or what they say because these prices are far below their estimated prices are.
Just called Horton's. Their ad seems a little bait and switch. It shows a 2WD at $19,800 and next to it is a balloon that says $379 a month with 0% financing. From a MSRP of $27,715. I asked him what he had in 4WD and he has the one I want. What's the killer price? $26500 if I want the 0% financing, "two or three grand less if I don't"
I had Matt ride with me at Moab on Fins 'n Things after a minor mech problem on his vehicle...very nice guy. I've heard nothing but good things about his dedication to customer service and the Isuzu community...
He seemed very impressed with what a nearly new, nearly stock Trooper was able to do...
I would call Lou Sobh Isuzu in Atlanta 770.232.0099 and ask for John Joy. Tell him about the ad that they are running at Horton and tell them to match it. Horton might be trying to do this over the phone with the bait and switch, but I know what deal I got. They are not going to give up the bank over the phone, that's why you need to work between the two dealerships. I got financing through my credit union, so I didn't worry about the 0%. I know for a fact that you can play these two dealerships against each other. The person that started Horton used to work for Lou Sobh. I got everything in writing from Lou Sobh and then went to Horton Isuzu. I got the price I wanted before I even saw the vehicle. I paid 20,700 and then asked if they had a green trooper. It was 22,500 all in. Email me at toddswagner@hotmail.com if you want some more information.
Sorry for the confusion but you do not pay more for fin. you just pay less with the $2k rebate. For example, I paid $29,710 with 0% fin. but if I got my own bank loan, I could have paid only $27,710 but the best loan % I could get is 6.7% which would be over $5k+ in fin. interest payments over the loan so it would cost me more per month than getting the 0% so it was cheaper to pay more for the 0%. If you can pay cash, you would then take the lower price.
For example, carsdirect.com has a lower price than invoice because that includes the $2k rebate already. If you pay cash, that is the price you get. If you take the Isuzu 0% fin. you don't get the $2k rebate thus pay $2,000 more.
So if you take edmunds or carsdirect prices. that is the cash price with the rebate and that is why they are lower than invoice. So you are not paying $2k over invoice it is less than that and people on this board are getting better than edmunds prices so shop around.
IMHO, if you are going to fin. anyway, take the 0% cause you will save more than $2,000 over the life of the loan. I think the 0% ends this month so only a week to go.
I tried going through VIP also (See my post at outdoorwire.com Isuzu board) but ended up going my own because I got atleast $1,000 for my trade-in at a non VIP dealer plus paid $200 less too! The only problem with VIP is that you are buying at invoice but will pay for "fees" which bumps the price to street price. The VIP dealer wanted $29,910 and I called up a non-VIP dealer and got $29,710. Because the price was lower, I did not haggle with him plus I got more on my trade. Carsdirect.com was cheaper but quoted me less on my trade(someone asked about carsdirect and they do help with the trade).
I think I could have paid less on my truck(if I haggled) but since they were fair on the price and trade, I did not mind. I was lucky since I have a few Isuzu dealers by me.
Miata? If the Stock market was better, I would love it. I don't think you will have problems selling it. IMHO, I would go to a non VIP dealer and see what price and trade-in they give you. You might get a better deal cause they might give you more for your trade. My VIP dealer made me feel that I had to jump through hoops to get the VIP deal(read my posts over at the wire). Good Luck.
Hi, I am going to have Matt make me one too. BTW the Rhino bar is lighter steel(AKA not as strong) and is only $20 less than Matt's. Yes you can get it in chrome plus a plastic step but they are marketing it as a step. To each his own as I did look at this one too because it does look nice but decided I want the protection of Matt's plus it is longer and you can use the whole thing as a step(Matt includes grip tape on his too BTW). I am too worried about the spare tire so I am going to have mine farther out too.
BTW, I think HiddenHitch makes a bike rack that can be used with any receiver as it just slips over the bar. So this will work with Matt's bar plus if you were towing something, you could still use the bike rack as well. Matt could use a extended tube and have a 2" receiver in his bar also(I might look into that myself...), that way, you can use any bike rack plus it will clear the spare tire which is a problem with most hitch bike racks.
Here's my take... $94 delivered for Rhino,$129(delivered?) for Indy. If I would to get one(I won't) to serve as a step and rear protection for parking, I'll take the tubular one;this one seems to be made out of 3" OD tube with pressed plastic step...same materials used for side tube steps.
This is something I wanted for my Sidekick but you can't have a hitch though. So that is the reason I am going with Matt's because it is similar plus it works with the hitch. I am going to see if he can make it with a round tube instead. Will keep you posted.
Cheers, Con
P.S. $98 shipped for the Rhino is a great deal BTW. Cheaper than where I found it.
Could this be the end of the Isuzu SUVs as we know them? That posting by Paisan does not look good. Possibly, isuzu SUVs will only be the US made or GM hybrids.
One thing I noticed on that from the web site is an underside anti-rattle locking system. My bar from Matt has no rattles, but such a clamp could help keep it positioned in the receiver. That could be a useful item to add to Matt's bar. Not sure if something like that can be adapted. I did add some duct tape to the one corner of the receiver insert part of the bar to keep it square in the receiver.
I did notice on putting my bar on that my bumper was not level. I had to adjust my bumper by loosening the bolts, leveling, and retightening. Since the bar runs across the bumper, its easy to notice any inconsistencies in the levelness of your bumper. I noticed that from stepping on the right side of the bumper that the part of the step on the right may have sunk slightly (~1/8") with respect to the left side of the step. That's because the metal under the 'bumper' skin is about the consistency of that of your rain gutter. Imagine stepping on your rain gutter. These are in regard to the alignment of the bar with respect to the bumper that I noticed. Mine looks fine now. One other thing, I have mine out to the edge of the spare. If you're loading items into the trooper, the result is you can't get as close in to the trooper, especially if its a heavy item. No doubt this bar will do the job though, in terms of absorbing a bump.
Nice,that should do the trick. I also like the bar cause I nearly castrated myself a few times when loading up the back by running into the hitch receiver end that I had left sticking out of the hitch, with the bar, I can lean against it and never knock into it.
I looked at the JC Whitney site, and noticed thaey have an aluminum hitch platform for only $115! That's way cheaper than I have seen previously...I like the idea of a lighter platform (every time I wrestle my steel one out of the garage) that won't rust.
I checked the Edmunds site on rebate/0% fin. It goes through 7/2/2001. (Excluding Alaska, Hawaii and San Diego ... what do they have against San Diego?)
Those cargo carriers for the 2" receiver with side rails in steel (black coat) are a lot cheaper at Harbor Freight Tools. Presently the 500 lb one is on sale for $49.99. I'm thinking of getting one there.
Which size is the 50buck one? JCWhitney has two sizes. one that is 20x48 for $50 and 20x60 is $90. The Aluminum 20x60 is $115 which is what my neighbor is getting for his trooper.
1.) Has anyone successfully lowered their Troopers and plus-sized their tire/rims (e.g. 18x8.5 in, 255/55-VR18)? I'm am concerned whether these changes (stickier tires, turn-in geometry, etc.) will adversely affect the handling dynamics (e.g. increase the possibility of rollover). I would presume that lowering the center of gravity should minimize the tendancy. I'm not much of an off-roader, nor am I out to take on an X5 throught the twisties, but am interested in beefing up its handling performance nevertheless. Any words of wisdom, experience or theoretical debates?
2.) Also, could those of you who have upgraded share detailed info regarding the upgrades (e.g. part number, vendor, price, do-it-yourself factor, etc)
3.) Any experiences with Bilstein Shocks for their Troopers?
Well first, being in the isuzu world for a few years I'll tell you this much. You are gonna need to get custom springs to do any lowering at all. The only products out there I know of for Troopers all raise it a bit. I'm sure that 18x8.5s will fit w/o a problem, just remember that your speedo will change as well as your gearing if the overall tire diameter changes. For the front you can probably crank down the Torsen Bars which will result in the front being lowered. If I were going to lower the Trooper (which my buddy who is an Isuzu salesman would do too) these are the mods I'd do:
1) Front and Rear Calmini Sway Bars
2) Bilstien, Koni, or Rancho 9000 shocks
3) Custom rear Springs (Valley Spring Works possibly?)
4) 18" x 8.5" Rims with lower profile tires, but keep the diameter the same, I'd use Pirelli P-Zero Scorpion LT tires.
5) Get an off-set rim that sets the wheels further out, giving it a wider track.
You shouldn't have any fender rub, because there is quite a bit of space between the fenders and the stock wheels, even lowering it 2" will likely not lead to any problems.
Keep us posted of any mods you do, I'd love to put up information on lowering a Trooper on http://isuzu-suvs.com since it isn't a common thing to be done on Troopers and others may be interested. You might want to check out the site for other info as well.
The VX 18" rims would look good on a Trooper. Someone at club.vmag.com is selling his rims and tires for about $1k or so. I have only seen one lowered Trooper(1987) in a low rider mag and it looked cool. Good Luck.
Conman, Did you put the hook in the front? I have 2 hooks in the front now on the trooper, and the one from the rear works a little better than the stock front one.
Yep, Did that too. Thanks for the tip BTW. It does look good and protects the front end more as that would hit before the skidplate as it sticks down about 1/2" or so. The factory one on the Pass. side is sideways hook and the driver side has the holes for the rear hook which hangs down. Looks good.
BTW, my neighor got two 2" class III type blank pipes receivers(Reese I think) and bolted them to the front hook locations. From there, he might have Matt build a receiver to slide in from there. I will take pics soon as it looks factory.
Regard, Con
P.S. My trailer wire harness came in today and I will post you guys when I install it.
Owner of the shop I take my Trooper for service has lowered '99 Trooper. Since I'm not interested in "lowering", I didn't ask him much about his mods, but I'd suggest you to contact him for info. I believe he has installed Bilstein shocks and performance exhaust, etc. Here is the link to his website:
Sunday I had the unfortunate experience of backing into another vehicle (at a very slow speed) in the Lowe's parking lot.
I had a bunch of deck lattice in the vehicle with me, and had NO mirror visibility. (If Isuzu would put a freakin' rack on the roof, this wouldn't have happened...) Stupid me. Anyway, backing out REALLY slowly, there was a BUMP, so I jumped out and I had hit a Honda CRV. It had a grapefruit sized dent in the corner of it's bumper (black plastic, NOT painted thank goodness). Trooper: No damage visible! I was really surprised, as I haven't heard too many positive things about the stock bumpers. No scratch, ding, dent or warp. There must be metal frame behind the plastic trooper bumper, because the CRV's internal frame was about 5 inches away from the bumper material, allowing it to dent. We were able to pop out his dent right there, with virtually no residual damage.
I guess this is a credit to the Trooper (2000 Ltd 2WD), that their bumpers aren't total crap after all. If I had one of those extra protective bars installed, it probabably would have cut into or done more damage to the CRV. Just a thought.
I have to replace a front left mud flap on my '96 Trooper "S" PEP.
After shopping and delaying, I finally received a price I could barely live with from a dealer in Ohio (I think) who offers a nice 15% discount on Isuzu. Anyways $79 later the mudflap is in route.
However, how in the hell do I remove the existing one. Has anyone noticed the screw head that holds these on is very unusual?
Am I going to find a "bit" that fits this head at a tool store? Or am I going to have to beg at my local dealer to borrow their tool (if they even have one, which I doubt).
Please help if you have any knowledge of this. IMO a ridiculous design, just use a phillips head! Why did they do this, to prevent theft of these expen$ive parts?
Comments
1) Custom built for the Trooper, the bar is elevated up so that the top of the step/bar is level with the built-in step of the trooper.
2) Rhino Bar comes straight out of the hitch receiver, this will result in a much lower bar than that of Independent 4xs, providing less protection from higher vehicles
3) I am willing to bet that they don't use 1/4" thick walled steel tubing, not even my reese receiver-shank rated at 6500lbs towing capacity uses steel that thick.
4) Spare Tire protection. The Rhino bar does not stick out nearly as far as Matt's does, so it will nor provide nearly as much protection to your spare-tire/door.
5) Width. My bar ends exactly where the door openings end on the trooper 54" wide, which provides protection for the corners over your bumper from parrallel parking incidences.
6) Custom built. GPM had his bar made 60" wide, and a longer shank on it so that it sticks out further than my 54" bar, also had stops built into the shaft so that it cannot be pushed through the hitch. Basically Matt will make it however *You* want it, so long as it doesn't vary too much from the original design.
Also Independent 4x is dedicated to the Isuzu Community. He was just out in Moab at the big Isuzu get-together, he come off-roading with Isuzu guys, and actually owns a '91 Trooper. That said I don't see how the Rhino bar is any better than matt's. Contact him http://independent4x.com
-mike
http://isuzu-suvs.com
How about rear bumpers? I would rather just replace the stock with something stronger. ARB offers one, but it is nowhere near the caliber of their roo-bar.
-mike
There is the link for the add for an S model Trooper for under 21,000 dollars. I should know, I got one there. If the link doesn't work, go to www.ajcclassifieds.com, then to ajc cars and the next screen click on View Automotive featured advertisers. I got to pick which one I wanted, so there isn't a hook with, "oh, we sold that model already", type deal. I wouldn't worry about Edmunds or what they say because these prices are far below their estimated prices are.
or something for fishing rods...
or to load a deer/bear/animal carcass...
or cooler...
or whatever...
?
-mike
He seemed very impressed with what a nearly new, nearly stock Trooper was able to do...
Looks like it will be a US built Trooper in 2003.
-mike
For example, carsdirect.com has a lower price than invoice because that includes the $2k rebate already. If you pay cash, that is the price you get. If you take the Isuzu 0% fin. you don't get the $2k rebate thus pay $2,000 more.
So if you take edmunds or carsdirect prices. that is the cash price with the rebate and that is why they are lower than invoice. So you are not paying $2k over invoice it is less than that and people on this board are getting better than edmunds prices so shop around.
IMHO, if you are going to fin. anyway, take the 0% cause you will save more than $2,000 over the life of the loan. I think the 0% ends this month so only a week to go.
Good Luck to all.
I think I could have paid less on my truck(if I haggled) but since they were fair on the price and trade, I did not mind. I was lucky since I have a few Isuzu dealers by me.
Miata? If the Stock market was better, I would love it. I don't think you will have problems selling it. IMHO, I would go to a non VIP dealer and see what price and trade-in they give you. You might get a better deal cause they might give you more for your trade. My VIP dealer made me feel that I had to jump through hoops to get the VIP deal(read my posts over at the wire). Good Luck.
Cheers,
Con
I am going to have Matt make me one too. BTW the Rhino bar is lighter steel(AKA not as strong) and is only $20 less than Matt's. Yes you can get it in chrome plus a plastic step but they are marketing it as a step. To each his own as I did look at this one too because it does look nice but decided I want the protection of Matt's plus it is longer and you can use the whole thing as a step(Matt includes grip tape on his too BTW). I am too worried about the spare tire so I am going to have mine farther out too.
BTW, I think HiddenHitch makes a bike rack that can be used with any receiver as it just slips over the bar. So this will work with Matt's bar plus if you were towing something, you could still use the bike rack as well. Matt could use a extended tube and have a 2" receiver in his bar also(I might look into that myself...), that way, you can use any bike rack plus it will clear the spare tire which is a problem with most hitch bike racks.
Regards,
Con
$94 delivered for Rhino,$129(delivered?) for Indy.
If I would to get one(I won't) to serve as a step and rear protection for parking, I'll take the tubular one;this one seems to be made out of 3" OD tube with pressed plastic step...same materials used for side tube steps.
ARB does not make rear step tow bar for Troopers.
This is something I wanted for my Sidekick but you can't have a hitch though. So that is the reason I am going with Matt's because it is similar plus it works with the hitch. I am going to see if he can make it with a round tube instead. Will keep you posted.
Cheers,
Con
P.S. $98 shipped for the Rhino is a great deal BTW. Cheaper than where I found it.
Steve
Host
Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Yeah, It worked. This is something I would like Matt's bar to look like.
Cheers,
Con
Is this what you are looking for?
Con
-mike
PS: don't forget chat tonight. I won't be here though. I'll be out whipping around in my buddy's new WRX
I did notice on putting my bar on that my bumper was not level. I had to adjust my bumper by loosening the bolts, leveling, and retightening. Since the bar runs across the bumper, its easy to notice any inconsistencies in the levelness of your bumper. I noticed that from stepping on the right side of the bumper that the part of the step on the right may have sunk slightly (~1/8") with respect to the left side of the step. That's because the metal under the 'bumper' skin is about the consistency of that of your rain gutter. Imagine stepping on your rain gutter. These are in regard to the alignment of the bar with respect to the bumper that I noticed. Mine looks fine now. One other thing, I have mine out to the edge of the spare. If you're loading items into the trooper, the result is you can't get as close in to the trooper, especially if its a heavy item. No doubt this bar will do the job though, in terms of absorbing a bump.
Cheers,
Con
Part # 51943 www.hiddenhitch.com
Bike Carriers and Accessories
CLASS III-V ANTI RATTLE DEVICE
Weight: 5 lbs.
-mike
-mike
http://www.hitchesonline.com/accessory_main.html
Also, another type. This type needs to be tightened with a wrench, but I wonder if its better? I think it will clear the bumper for the hiddenhitch.
http://www.hitchrider.com/nowobble.htm
-mike
Cheers,
Con
2001 Trooper with 911 miles on it(just put 500 on it this weekend)!
Cheers,
Con
2.) Also, could those of you who have upgraded share detailed info regarding the upgrades (e.g. part number, vendor, price, do-it-yourself factor, etc)
3.) Any experiences with Bilstein Shocks for their Troopers?
1) Front and Rear Calmini Sway Bars
2) Bilstien, Koni, or Rancho 9000 shocks
3) Custom rear Springs (Valley Spring Works possibly?)
4) 18" x 8.5" Rims with lower profile tires, but keep the diameter the same, I'd use Pirelli P-Zero Scorpion LT tires.
5) Get an off-set rim that sets the wheels further out, giving it a wider track.
You shouldn't have any fender rub, because there is quite a bit of space between the fenders and the stock wheels, even lowering it 2" will likely not lead to any problems.
Keep us posted of any mods you do, I'd love to put up information on lowering a Trooper on http://isuzu-suvs.com since it isn't a common thing to be done on Troopers and others may be interested. You might want to check out the site for other info as well.
-mike
Regards,
Con
Later,
Con
Did you put the hook in the front? I have 2 hooks in the front now on the trooper, and the one from the rear works a little better than the stock front one.
-mike
Are there holes already drilled for that? My HH ought to be here any day now.
Sue
-mike
Did that too. Thanks for the tip BTW. It does look good and protects the front end more as that would hit before the skidplate as it sticks down about 1/2" or so. The factory one on the Pass. side is sideways hook and the driver side has the holes for the rear hook which hangs down. Looks good.
BTW, my neighor got two 2" class III type blank pipes receivers(Reese I think) and bolted them to the front hook locations. From there, he might have Matt build a receiver to slide in from there. I will take pics soon as it looks factory.
Regard,
Con
P.S. My trailer wire harness came in today and I will post you guys when I install it.
http://www.isuzusuv.com/
...Eiji...
I had a bunch of deck lattice in the vehicle with me, and had NO mirror visibility. (If Isuzu would put a freakin' rack on the roof, this wouldn't have happened...) Stupid me. Anyway, backing out REALLY slowly, there was a BUMP, so I jumped out and I had hit a Honda CRV. It had a grapefruit sized dent in the corner of it's bumper (black plastic, NOT painted thank goodness). Trooper: No damage visible! I was really surprised, as I haven't heard too many positive things about the stock bumpers. No scratch, ding, dent or warp. There must be metal frame behind the plastic trooper bumper, because the CRV's internal frame was about 5 inches away from the bumper material, allowing it to dent. We were able to pop out his dent right there, with virtually no residual damage.
I guess this is a credit to the Trooper (2000 Ltd 2WD), that their bumpers aren't total crap after all. If I had one of those extra protective bars installed, it probabably would have cut into or done more damage to the CRV. Just a thought.
Trooper Wins!
Andy
Nashville
After shopping and delaying, I finally received a price I could barely live with from a dealer in
Ohio (I think) who offers a nice 15% discount on Isuzu. Anyways $79 later the mudflap is
in route.
However, how in the hell do I remove the existing one. Has anyone noticed the screw head
that holds these on is very unusual?
Am I going to find a "bit" that fits this head at a tool store? Or am I going to have to beg
at my local dealer to borrow their tool (if they even have one, which I doubt).
Please help if you have any knowledge of this. IMO a ridiculous design, just use a phillips head!
Why did they do this, to prevent theft of these expen$ive parts?
-E