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Isuzu Trooper

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  • desimonesdesimones Member Posts: 18
    Most Isuzu 3.5L engines appear to have this problem. This is a change I had made on my vehicle which helped resolve my oil consumption issue: About four years ago I found some info on replacing the oil filter plug and installing a larger filter (V6 Ford Ranger PH8 extended mileage type filter) on my 2000 Trooper LS. This adds about another 1/2 qt. to the oil capacity and should help reduce heat and improve circulation. I also started using Mobil synthetic oil (recently upgraded to their new Gold synthetic). The new filter is more than twice the size of the old one and with the oil change, I now burn less than half the amount of oil (approx. 1 qt. every 3-4 months). It may take about one change cycle before you notice a significant improvement.
  • desimonesdesimones Member Posts: 18
    FYI to my previous response with regards to the brake replacement issue. I had 74K miles on my Trooper before needing replacement and it appears that is not that uncommon for this vehicle. I wonder if they made any changes to them after the 2000 model year?
  • desimonesdesimones Member Posts: 18
    I have a 2000 Trooper LS and am not aware of this item. Do you know if it was standard on the LS?
  • desimonesdesimones Member Posts: 18
    I had lost my original keyless entry clicker for my 2000 Trooper and have since purchased a total of three replace units from the Internet. I have attempted to reprogram each of them and none of them will activate. I have tried both procedures; new and additional, but neither works. The serial #''s / key codes are the same as my original. Is there any condition which would disable this system and keep it from programming? Any suggestions?
  • mpelmpel Member Posts: 23
    Pretty sure I need a new cat conv (pass side). Is this something a "non mech" like myself could do (saw one on ebay ($95) and it looks like it just bolts on with the flanges)? What should I expect to pay if a mech did this job (in Tulsa)?

    Thanks
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Most muffler shops offer non-OEM cats for around $100. Installation is extra. You would really need too climb under and look at the bolts and flange condition before deciding if you could do it yourself. Sometimes replacement flange kits are necessary and chances are bolts will break or be frozen; bottom line is if you are adept at tools and mechanical stuff, you can probably do it. As a simple parts swap, it is NOT normally that easy.
    Here in Michigan, I paid $150 for aftermarket Cat and installation at the muffler shop (non chain store) about two years ago.
    Hope this helps.
  • mpelmpel Member Posts: 23
    Yes, thanks!

    A guy at the dealership did say that it's important to get a "good" cat if not OEM because of the O2 sensors...a different or "cheap" cat may "run" or "burn" differently and the O2 sensors may pick up on it and give me an CEL (something about the running too "rich" of "lean").

    Thanks again...
  • ghost329ghost329 Member Posts: 9
    hey what's up everyone? just wondering if anyone knows what i'd be looking at to pay for a new or used engine for my 1999 trooper. i know nothing about vehicles and don't want to get ripped off. i did get one estimate of 3000 for used and 4000 for a new one. does this sound about right? and if so how much would be too much for labor? thanks again.
  • egyptgerryegyptgerry Member Posts: 22
    for 3000 dollars i would think that it would be fitted,Sorry i cant help with costs as i am in the Uk and you can buy a really good second hand engine here with a warrantee for about 1200 dollars or you can have your engine rebuilt for about 2600 dollars,have you checked out ebay you never know what you can buy there and at a good price
  • ghost329ghost329 Member Posts: 9
    hey thanks and yes i went to ebay immediately after posting my question and seen what i believe were some pretty good deals. just got to save up the cash now but thanks again.
    Oh and besides ebay i seen one for 2495 rebuilt.
    if anyone knows where i can get a cheaper one or a new one for the same price or maybe a little more please let me know thanks guys.
  • patrickbodpatrickbod Member Posts: 2
    Hi : Can somebody recommend a good mechanic for a 60K service for a Trouper 99 ? Dealer is asking $800 for this service... seems quite high
    Thanks
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The Edmunds Maintenance Guide says it should cost about $206 for a 60k service in a DC area zip code.

    Sounds like the dealer is recommending that a lot of stuff be done that Isuzu doesn't require. Some may be worthwhile, but ... hang on to your wallet. :shades:

    You could try getting a quote just to do the stuff listed in the maintenance schedule.

    And check Dealer Ratings and Reviews for recommendations for mechanics near you.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    2000 Trooper LS, purchased 8 years ago new, 134K miles. Well, Saturday the Trooper finally let me down. Just before noon at a mall about 5 miles from the house. I got in and it failed to start, a very little cranking, then only a click. Had the spouse come get me and take me to the nearby Walmart where I purchased the battery almost 4 years ago. They suggested I get a wrench so I could bring the battery to them to test. Did that and they declared the battery "GOOD". Took it home and charged for over an hour. Then went and put it back in, same result. Security came by and we tried jumping it again with same result. Tried tapping the starter with a hammer I brought...same result. Conclude the starter is probably gone. Go to the large Napa warehouse store about 2 miles down the road. Pick up a rebuilt starter for about $175 plus $28 core charge. Call a tow company and get the Trooper towed home for $75. Real pain to change the starter having to finally remove the cross member so a 14mm with long extension will reach the 2 bolts. 2 plus hours later it started on the first attempt. Maybe I'll give it another year or two on the front line before making a switch.

    Bill
  • cracoviancracovian Member Posts: 337
    That's not bad that after 8 years and 134K miles the only thing that went was the starter. My 2002 only has 50K (mainly sitting in the driveway lookin' purty these days) and various plastic trims along with the gd CD changer have been the only issues.
  • 234ktrooper234ktrooper Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I am a current owner of a 1996 Trooper with 234k miles on it.
    I have had a few problems over the last 100k or so but nothing major.
    This truck has been so good that I have decided to buy another.

    For the sake of familiarity I am considering another 96 or 97. But I found a good deal on a 98. This engine is different than the one I have and it also has the TOD system.

    Can anybody tell me what their experience has been with the 3.5? More specifically, are there any telltale sounds or areas that I should check when I look at candidates.

    Running a few Google searches hasn't turned up any chronic problems which is good, but I am a very cautious buyer and like to be as informed as possible.

    Is there a good way to test the TOD system during a test drive?

    I appreciate any tips you can give me.

    Thanks
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi, you should go to www.planetisuzoo.com and check out the comments on the 3.5L motor....it has a personality all its own compared to the 3.2. Bear in mind that most people post the horror stories but at least you will be informed.
    I don't have TOD either, but you should be able to search that as well, lots of stuff about it. HTH One guys opinion.
  • burro1burro1 Member Posts: 1
    Going to look at a 1996 Trooper 5spd trans.

    Need to know if this vehicle be towed behind my motorhome without any special parts.

    Any Help Thanks
  • nater1nater1 Member Posts: 2
    New in this site with some problems, if someone can help me, i trying to get a EGR, for a Isuzu Trooper 1999, or where i can get one, not to expesive.
    Here in Puerto Rico cost me about $260.00

    Thank you :(
  • 1trooperdave1trooperdave Member Posts: 2
    Believe it or not, did you try Napa online? I have had good luck with them in the past. I am looking for external oil cooler hoses for my 1990 Trooper v-6.
  • lorentblorentb Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I have a PL24458 oil filter that I bought for a car I no longer have. If you would like it email me.

    Loren Bradford
  • egyptgerryegyptgerry Member Posts: 22
    Hi Loren,thanks for the offer of the Filter,I have no problem getting Filters,But thanks once again for your kind offer,Regards GERRY.
  • matausmataus Member Posts: 43
    I have a 1990 Isuzu Trooper with a 2.8 lts v6 with a 5 speed manual transmission.

    I noticed that my clutch is slipping a little bit. I have no problem replacing it. I just don't have the time right now to do it. My question is this...Does anyone know where I can tighten the clutch. its it on the tranny itself, or on the clutch petal. If there is any one who can help, it would be greatly appreciated...

    Maddy :confuse:
  • evansexpressevansexpress Member Posts: 2
    My trooper was working great and on our way home from a trip last week I could feel it missing on the highway. When we took our exit it stalled when we stopped. Now it sounds like its not getting spark and fuel at the same time when warming up, and haven't driven it much in the last week. So it starts great and quickly starts running like crap until its warmed up, and i haven't driven far enough to see if it starts dying.
  • 93trooper193trooper1 Member Posts: 7
    had the same problem with my 93 Trooper - turned out to be a switch. Symptoms were it drove well when cold but as it warmed up it felt like the engine was skipping - I eventually stalled and couldn't restart so had a tow truck come. The mechanic said if I had let it cool down, it would have started and then I could have driven it further..The repair bill was minimal......hope this helps
  • evansexpressevansexpress Member Posts: 2
    I have no codes, did your check engine light come on? Do you remember which switch or sensor was bad?
  • 93trooper193trooper1 Member Posts: 7
    Sorry no I don't - it happened about 4 years ago. I believe it was the sensor that controlled the oxygen flow
  • mpelmpel Member Posts: 23
    OK, here's one.

    For a while now, I've had a noise from under my 1999 Trooper and the best description I can think of is like "stones being shaken around in a glass jar". It didn't happen ALL of the time and was most prevalent when in gear and accelerating. A few shops said it was the catalytic converter - but it was running fine and I have blown it off for a bit.

    Recently took it to a muffler shop who said it was NOT the CAT and suggested it was something (STARTER) brushing up against the FLYWHEEL - as he could see some wear on the flywheel gears.

    Sound familiar to anyone?

    Thanks
  • 93trooper193trooper1 Member Posts: 7
    I would check your universal joints as when they start to go, you do get that type of noise coming from the undercarriage.
  • budermbuderm Member Posts: 9
    To everyone:

    My dad has a 1999 Trooper, and is going to Colorado this Christmas, and he recently called me and said his rear right ABS sensor is bad (took it to the dealer). They of course want a fortune, so i was seeing if anyone knew where to get one(cheaper) or who may have one.

    Thanks for any help

    Michael
  • egyptgerryegyptgerry Member Posts: 22
    I am not saying that this is the answer but check out the bearing on the starter motor shaft if this has failed then yes you will have wear on the flywheel and lots of quiet interesting noises coming from the bell housing,,You say that you have checked out the Cat and found no problem,What about the rear box as maybe 1 of the baffle plates may be loose and this also will give the noise you are talking about,Regards Gerry UK.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Is it possible it could be preignition or "pinging" due to poor quality gasoline? Pretty hard to imagine a timing issue because the ECM controls that, but if the knock sensor is bad then pinging could result. Spark plugs and wires may be implicated as well.
    One guys opinion.
  • mpelmpel Member Posts: 23
    It's very funny U-Joints were mentioned. A mech. thought that was it immediately when he heard it...changed them...and got a call from me on my way home from picking it up hearing the same noise...He then dropped a few choice words, refunded my money and said "lesson learned"!!

    It's definately NOT a pinging, it sounds metallic and substantial...although not constant. From what a couple of guys said, it does sound like the starter on the flywheel. Do you think I can live with it for a couple more weeks?

    I've got an appointment to take it to the local dealer but they may charge me 2 hours just to tell me that!

    Thanks a bunch for the feedback....
  • wesbellmorewesbellmore Member Posts: 11
    FIRST!! Check the perforated metal cover on the catalytic converter. It's probably just rattling! Mine does that now and then, at certain RPMs. A quick and easy fix... (I hope.)
  • serranotserranot Member Posts: 113
    Yep. Was going to suggest checking all of the heat shields.
  • mpelmpel Member Posts: 23
    I had a muffler shop cut the heat shields off - thinking that was the problem...but sadly no. Its weird that the first couple of shops that looked at said, "Yep its the cat" but the last 2 said, "nope, its not the cat"

    Just from how and when the nosie starts, it make sense to think its the starter rubbing on the flywheel.

    1) It only does it when IN GEAR and accelerating (can't rev it in N and make it rattle)
    2) Doesn't do it all of the time
    3) If I'm driving and the noise starts, I can sometimes turn the car off, and when I restart it, the rattle goes away (usually comes back fairly quickly though)

    Anyway, thanks a bunch for he feedback. Guess I'm gonna bite the bullet, and have the dealer (or someone) diagnose - hopefully a new starter - or just the spring that disengages it from the flywheel - will fix 'er up!
  • matausmataus Member Posts: 43
    I have a 1990 Isuzu Trooper 5 speed, 2.8 liter v6

    I hope someone can help. I have a throttle body 2 barrel fuel injection carb. For some reason or another, one of the injector won't spray fuel into the carb. Other than the basics fixes, what else could there be.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated...

    Maddy
  • matausmataus Member Posts: 43
    :confuse: I have a 1990 Isuzu Trooper 5 speed, 2.8 liter v6

    I hope someone can help. I have a throttle body 2 barrel fuel injection carb. For some reason or another, one of the injector won't spray fuel into the carb. Other than the basics fixes, what else could there be.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated...

    Maddy
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    I'm not sure what you mean by basic fixes, but first test should be to see if injector is getting electrical signal to inject fuel. There is a tester for this available fairly cheap at most parts stores. If there is a pulse, then the injector is probably just dirty or bad. This is a fairly common part and most yards will have them around. It is not too hard to swap it out. HTH One guys opinion.
  • mpelmpel Member Posts: 23
    Just recently in my 99 Trooper (98K) when I shift, it seems to not shirft as easily. It's doesn't feel stuck or caught on anything, just a bit more resistance. One guy said I might need a transmission flush - which I'm sure it needs ($170) and another couple of guys said it could be the shifter cable (getting frayed).

    It does however seem to "loosen up" after a bit and shift easlily - like normal.

    The Cable thing sounds pretty simpe and cheap (ha).

    Anyone run into this sorta thing?

    Thanks
  • serranotserranot Member Posts: 113
    You might have a bad motor mount. The engine is torquing over when under load and causing metal-to-metal contact. Try driving it against a curb and then giving it gas on and off. Have someone look under the hood and see if the engine is lurching around.
  • anthonylanthonyl Member Posts: 9
    On my 99 Trooper, the exterior plastic rock guard shield under the doors looks something awful, with lots of brown and orange lines showing in the plastic. I have tried removing it with a hair dryer and propane torch without success. I have also tried various scrapers. It appears the underlying structure beneath the plastic shield is also made of plastic.

    Does anyone know how to remove this rock guard shield? If I can get it off, I plan to paint the area dark grey with bumper paint.

    Thanks for any help.
  • sea4taosea4tao Member Posts: 1
    What is the best procedure for removing lower hose coupling from pump. 1992 3.2L thank you
  • matausmataus Member Posts: 43
    I have a 1990 Isuzu Trooper manual with a 2.8 liter v6.

    Just recently I started to get a pop that comes from my throttle body carb. I'm not sure why it would be back firing like that. I did check all the vacuum hoses. Everything seems to be intact. Just recently I did some work on my exhaust system, but the pop isn't from the exhaust. When my truck is at a stand still, it doesn't pop when I hit the gas, but it is certainly evident when I drive it. When the carb back fires, my truck loses power. Also, would anyone know the firing order for a 1990 Isuzu Trooper with a 2.8 liter v6? Just want to make sure the plugs match up correctly to the distributor.

    If anyone can help, it would be greatly appreciated... :confuse:

    Tracy
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Photobucket

    Assuming you don't have a camshaft problem or valve sticking, start with basics....plugs, wires, and coil check. Bad plugs will evidence themselves under load.
    HTH
  • tack1tack1 Member Posts: 3
    Greetings;
    I’m having a persistent problem with my 1999 Trooper that has been running perfectly for years until now. It idles a little rough, but revs nicely with no engine load. It barely gets down the road, however. A real dog. Like running on three or four cylinders. Codes are p1171, P0030, P0301, and various O2 sensor codes at times, like low voltage. I replaced the fuel filter. Fuel pressure is being regulated at about 37 pounds. Remove vacuum from regulator, pressure goes past 40. Replaced oxygen sensors (that one on the passenger side was a bear; had to remove front drive shaft to get to it). Replaced all six fuel injectors. Did the usual EGR cleaning, also removed the TB to clean the weird EGR passage molded into the intake manifold which was plugged with carbon. I have an OBDII reader that interfaces the ECM to a laptop. Long term fuel trim on bank one runs into the negative, while bank two runs far positive, into the twenties at times. I tried the trick of spraying carb cleaner around the manifold to check for leaks, but nothing happened. Never did hear a leak anyway.
    About two and a half months ago the check engine light came on, flashing. Ended up being the no. 3 cylinder misfiring. Coil pack was bad. I replaced the pack and bought a spare. I tried the spare on various cylinders, but no joy. No surprise since the truck was running better before on 5 cylinders than it is now. Difficult to get up to 50 mph, have to go very easy on the accelerator or I get a lot of knocking and pinging like the engine is under great load.
    Can anybody give me any ideas? Thanks
  • tack1tack1 Member Posts: 3
    How much running of engine (time) at highway speeds does it generally take, when one cylinder isn't firing but dumping gas, to ruin a cat?
  • egyptgerryegyptgerry Member Posts: 22
    How long will it take to ruin a cat,well first if the fuel ignites in the cat then you will not have to worry about it as you will no longer have one,What you ask is like asking how long is a piece of string,take it to a garage and get it put on a diagnostic unit to find out what is wrong,Regards Gerry UK
  • tack1tack1 Member Posts: 3
    I've read somewhere about guidlines as to how long the engine can be run while in mode A before damage to CAT will result, but I don't remember what the limits were.

    Why must some people make useless, un-helpful posts? I'll post the concluding info and my fix here; maybe others can benefit from my experiences.

    My trooper indeed had a bad catalytic converter. I came to the conclusion after examining the scanned results; the passenger side was out of kilter. Of course that by itself isn't enough, but what really got me to suspect the cat was the trouble (besides the little incident of driving back home on a trip from a neighboring state, with over an hour drive time left, when #3 coil pack died) was the lack of response on the right side. If I removed a coil plug or injector connector on the left side, it made major difference in the running of the engine. However, it made little difference on the right (passenger) side. And there was the clattering of the valves on that side, too. I got under the vehicle and drilled a few 1/4" holes in the engine side of the cat, and Man! did the gas shoot outta them holes. And the engine started to run properly. Case closed. Just got back from a muffler shop downtown that replaced the cat for 180 bucks.
  • serranotserranot Member Posts: 113
    Don't know how many miles you have on the Trooper, but I'm guessing that the fuel pump screen is plugged. Get yourself a new fuel pump and screen, drop the tank, and replace it.

    My symptoms were that the car ran okay when the tank was full but got progressively worse as the tank drained. Eventually, it would misfire badly while accelerating.

    Regards,
    Tom
  • dmitrycdmitryc Member Posts: 6
    Hey guys, I have two CDs that will not eject from CD1 and CD2. Any suggestions? They blink and sound like they want to, but then nothing happens. Put in both CDs list night while driving, and realized they were DVDs - daahhhh :-(
    Any help would be appreciated.
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