I have put in 22+ gallons also. My 1995 is supposed to be a 22 gallon tank. I usually fill up before the gas light comes on. When my gas light stays on I can fill up with about 19 gallons.
I travelled I-77 the West Virginia Turnpike (my favorite Interstate roller coaster) recently. With two people and minimal stuff for a 4 day trip I got 18.5 MPG in 5th gear at 74 MPH and 65 MPH (23 miles between Northern most toll booths speed limit is 60MPH) all the time in 5th gear cruise control. Very little wind that day. Only in two places did the Trooper speed slow down due to the incline and then only a few MPH lost. I have the 1995 Trooper-S with 175 Hp SOHC 3.2L engine (5W30 Valvoline Synpower and no valve lifter noise on this trip), manual transmission and DirectHits spark plug and low resistance wire kit. I would have had to shift to 4th gear before installing the DirectHits. http://www.directhits.com They work great for towing too. I am not connected to DirectHits in any way except as a satisfied customer.
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On the return trip I got only 17 MPG but thats on a colder blustery night and I had an additional 600# of stuff aboard. Still made all the way it in 5th gear cruise control and same speeds.
As a long-time subscriber to AutoWeek, I came across this article on the latest SUV rollover in a slalom test: Jeep Liberty. AutoWeek reports that since 1992 using the same test procedures & same 2 test drivers, only the Liberty has rolled - although they report that 2 others got up on 2 wheels - proving that you don't push SUV's like normal cars.
I must be paranoid about running out of gas... The most I've ever put into our 98 Trooper (22.5 gallon fuel tank) is about 20.5 gallons. And I figured it was about to run out of gas at any minute! I guess there is more gas in the tank than the fuel needle would have you believe!
I'm about ready to put Mobil 1 in my Trooper engine. I'm wondering: do any of you use synth lubes in the auto-tranny, transfer case, or diff? I'd be wary of doing the limited-slip differential, but the transfer case uses engine oil and there is plenty of auto-tranny synth fluid available...
You definitely don't want to run your tank near dry - especially if the fuel pump is located in the tank. The few extra gallons of fuel not read on the level gauge is by design to keep the pump from overheating & premature failure. The pump submerged in fuel helps keep it cool.
Not to start a dino / synthetic fluid war, but I wouldn't use synthetic in the automatic transmission unless it is specifically set up for it. The clutch packs in an automatic tranny, designed for Dextron III, needs some friction to shift properly which the more slippery synthetic fluid would negate. I run RedLine synthetic in my Gen II SHO but it was specifically rebuilt with tighter tolerances & modified w/ a Transgo shift kit to address some OEM design flaws & take advantage of the synthetic's fluid properties - including its ability to tolerate higher operating temps. My '98 Gen III SHO's ATX requires Mercon V but previous year models ('96 & '97)are not designed for it - use Mercon III. I can't really advise you on any benefits or problems in using synthetics for the transfer case or differential. I personally don't see a cost / performance benefit. I use dino juice for all of my other vehicles fluid changeouts including the Troop.
I did a post a few weeks ago on defective printing on the Helm mauuals for the Trooper, here is update; Helm repalaced the manual.. There was much improvment. Only a few pictures were printed light,but they were readable. Knowing what I now know, I would have just ordered the C D and did my own printing on what I needed for a task. Isuzu customer service (Peggy) was where I really got some help. She sent me a free C D for my trouble and took my defective manual back and worked with Helm to fix the printing problem. Helm then sent me a free manual,so I am a happy camper. Have Fun
I put RedLine synthetic in all but the brake fluid on my 1995 Trooper. I use only genuine Isuzu brake fluid and parts. I have been very happy with the RedLine oils in the differentials, but I cannot tell the difference from the original dino oil. I started towing a 4000# trailer so I put synthetics everywhere I thought heat might be a problem. I have only one RedLine product complaint: The RedLine wheel bearing grease does not stay in the bearings as well as genuine Isuzu grease. I have RedLine synthetic automatic trnsmission fluid in my power steering. I have RedLine MTL in my manual transmission. The MTL in the manual transmission does make a difference that is noticeably easier shifting. I have used RedLine motor oil a few times to help clear up the lifter noise, but I normally use Valvoline Synpower since I can get it at WallMart for half what the RedLine costs. RedLine has good customer service and they will discuss RedLine vs Dino and look up your specific application. http://www.redlineoil.com.
FWIW: I use RedLine motor oil in my Suzuki 50Hp outboard. It is maintained by the Suzuki marine mechanic who works on many more just like it. He was impressed by the lack of wear in my engine which did not need the usual valve adjustments for the amount of hours on it. I rev that outboard above the recommended RPM range all the time for extended periods so I am very happy to hear that the RedLineOil is working so well under such conditions.
I've heard very good things about their products both from the performance car side (auto-xing with my XT6) and the truck side from off-roaders. I plan on doing Redline synthetics in my Trooper when I get the 30K maintenance done.
The brand name doesn't matter as long as it meets OEM specifications - listed on the label. For example, Mobil 1 meets the Dexron III / Mercon III specification as well as Amsoil Dexron III or Redline D4 ATF if I recall correctly.
I have use a TV in my 1995 Trooper-S with some string to the front head rest mounts and a third string to the rear view mirror or the "OhJesus Handle" in front of the passenger door. From these strings hang a small 7" portable TV. (If you have arm rests on the front seats just slip a pillow case over them and voilla a TV mount) On the floor or passenger seat rests a DVD player and a 12VDC to 120VAC inverter. The DVD is the household unit borrowed for the trip. The litle TV works great and has a video input for the DVD video. The DVD audio goes to one of those CD adapter units that has a 1/8 jack at one end and a fake cassette on the other, pop this thing into the cassette player and the DVD sound plays on the Trooper speakers. .. Total cost $379. Compare that to installed VHS TV up to around $2000!!! DVD player borrowed from home $0.00 tiny little TV $300 DC to AC inverter $79 for an overkill nice one .. The kids loved it. At home they are limited to one hour of TV a day. On a long trip its movie binging time.
One of the guys on the Edmunds Subaru page uses his laptop DVD player with some sort of power converter to play movies for the kids. You get a 14.1 or 15.1 inch screen as a bonus.
That's what I do. I have a 15.1, I run the casset wire to the back of it. During a trip from NYC-> MI we watched the entire 1st season of the Sopranos.
Paisan, where/how do you sit it/anchor it so it doesn't slide around. I assume you mean a casette adaptor from the speaker output into the casette deck. Do you convert to AC and then convert back using the DC converter on the laptop? Any problem with the DVD stopping due to bumps?
I usually have my passenger hold it on their lap! If not, I move my pass seat all the way up and put my pillows under it. Not an idea system. On my website are instruction of how to build a holder in the how to section. I use the cassette wire adpater from the speaker output for it. Also usually run my GPS in the background behind the DVD so we can flip to that for quick refrence. I run an inverter that put out 120v A/C and then I use the regular A/C Adapter for the laptop.
So far never had the DVD skip at all even on bumps. I don't usually watch it while off-roading but shouldn't be a problem since the CDroms in Laptops don't have the cd floating, it's actually snapped into the CD unit.
I'm sure there's been plenty of discussion on this topic, but I'm new to the board. I saw a picture of 3rd row seats "from Malaysia" on isuzu-suvs.com, but where can I get information on obtaining such seats.
Unless you have a relative over seas who can ship it to you or want to pay around $1000 before shipping, you can forget it. I looked into getting them from australia, and it was more of a headache than it's worth. Try little3rdrowseats.com or something like that (check out the vendor page on isuzu-suvs.com) they are now offering 3rd row seats that fold against the 2nd row, also offering 3rd row with head rests etc.
This is a new 9" TV/DVD combo made by Toshiba. It uses either AC or DC so you don't need a power converter. Width a little less than 11.0" should fit perfectly between front seat and set on top of the console. Price is affordable, it's on sale at Costco for $399 - $50 rebate. Check it out!
I went for the splurge. At the time after market shops were asking 1400 plus for 5.7 inch screen and a vcp. I got a Jensen 6.8 inch from Ubid.com for about 330. I then got a mobile dvd player from same place for about 185-200. I then hired an auto sound place to wire it all (600) and it took them over 6 hours straight to install everthing. They worked like a dog! The result is remarkable. This thing looks stock and is way cool. DVD is bolted underneath drivers seat and made specifically for mobile use. In my install price I also negotiated the antennae(diversity type) and it's installation as part of the deal as well as 2 sets of wireless headphones for the kids. All told I spent more than I normally would on such a thing but in the end I would do it again. The 1000 mile drive I did this for was a lot more enjoyable and quiet. The kids watched various movies in silence and I could actually talk to my wife. Everything wired in nice, nothing to carry inside the house. Also has the tv tuner built in to the flip down. The only trick is to find movies that a teen and a 10 year old will agree to watch together! Also, with everything screwed in and bolted, if I have to really hit the brakes there aren't heavy objects flying about the cabin.
Just got my new tires put on tonight. The Pirelli Scorpion ATs are awsome. Got them for $99+ shipping from Tirerack. Costco Mounted and balanced them for $9/each. They are great. The 275-70-16 size really fills the wheel wells nicely especially with the OME lift of 1.5-2" on the truck. It definitely looks beefier.
at 30K miles they were pretty much toasted. At least more toasted than I feel comfy driving on, and the cracking that GPM saw on his started to ever so slightly appear. Not to mention I neglected to rotate them for 10K miles and the fronts were wore out much more than the rears, and also since I had to repair one of the rears it had 10K less miles than the others so that didn't makeme too happy. overall I felt it was a good idea to upgrade em.
Yeah, I understand the self-reassurance psychology as well as the next guy! They do fill out the fender-well nicely, don't they?! Yours are 10mm wider than mine, so I imagine it's just that much better. With your lift, ours might appear proportionately the same. Pictures soon? I agree 100% on the black-side-out mounting, too. Just for everyone's info, my 265/70/16's seem to be wearing very nicely (with rotations every 6k, by the way). I was a bit concerned, like a few people here seem to be, but am very pleased after 12k miles.
Also since I'm a rather agressive driver, I like to keep fresh rubber between me and the road. Usually I replace tires every 30-60K miles depending on the condition. Never usually mor than 60K miles tho.
Jim: you have 265-70 or 75? Most of the guys go to 75, I didn't want that high an aspect ratio so I opted for the 275-70s.
I think I said I had 75's during one discussion about larger tires, but then corrected myself. At least I hope I did. I wanted a lower profile, too. I even considered "performance SUV" tires, and would have taken 265/60's to maintain the same rolling diameter as stock if I could have found any.
if I had the $ to buy a 2nd set of rims I'd have gotten the Pirellis P-zeros for the Trooper in something like 285-60-16, which would have been nice, but can't afford the $150/tire + rims.
The bridgestone's are warrantied for 60,000 miles, correct? Paisan, did you think about bringing them in for replacement? Even if you aren't going to use them today, you could have them replaced and in the wings for sometime in the future?
Nah, they only pro-rate based on how much tread is left. Which means that there would have been almost nothing left on em. Not to mention the hassle of it. GPM already tried to do something with the cracking and the balked. There is plenty of theoretical tread left on them, but not enough for my liking.
My '99 has developed a rattle in the tailgate area. I seem to recall reading that there was a factory bulletin on this problem. Has anyone had the same problem? What was the fix? Can I fix it myself? Even though it's still under warranty I'd rather do that than hassle with the dealer.
I also have a rattle deep under the dash on the driver's side, but only when offroading over washboard roads, etc. Anyone else have this?
I solved the tailgate rattle on my '00 LTD by applying wheel bearing grease to the spring & plastic / nylon "latch" at the bottom of the door. Also, make sure you move the slide back to grease the spring rod to reduce vibration. You may need to perform this procedure again should the rattle develop again. The door was adjusted properly but still rattled.
Somehow my front end got out of alignment (newp, don't do any 4-wheeling) and the front tires are wearing irregularly. I guess I'll have to trash them soon. What brands do people prefer most?
I personally wouldn't think my 99 Trooper would need a front-end alignment at 23k unless I hit a huge pothole or a curb.
Anyone else had problems with irregular tire wear, etc?
No place (even Firestone/Bridgestone service dealer) would even support a warranty or consider offering money toward a new set. (I had considered just replacing the fronts at one point, but then realized I'd be in the same spot with a set of bad ones in another year).
I've punished my trooper and did not notice a problem with alignment. I did notice that the 684s wore with the tread blocks alternating high and low on the front and there were cracks between the tread blocks at ~20k miles. I put on TOYO Open Country ATs in the stock size. I'm very happy with the traction and handling, although they are expensive. I like the heavy tread design. I have a black trooper and the white letters out look nice on it. I'm just worried that they will be beat off when I go offroad.
I tend to buy tires rated for 60-80K miles, and then I replace them somewhere b/w 25-40k depending upon the wear...I wanted to replace these crappy Bridgestones at 20 (cause IMHO they suck), but it looks like that'll happen next month while I'm driving around the country, so I've either got to replace them next week before I leave or wait til I get back....anyway, that's my 2 cents....
Comments
I've put in as much as 22.3 gallons at one fillup. Anyone know what is the maximum useful fuel quantity in a Trooper?
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On the return trip I got only 17 MPG but thats on a colder blustery night and I had an additional 600# of stuff aboard. Still made all the way it in 5th gear cruise control and same speeds.
For more info:
http://www.autoweek.com/ & click on the "Top Story".
What do you think?
I can't really advise you on any benefits or problems in using synthetics for the transfer case or differential. I personally don't see a cost / performance benefit. I use dino juice for all of my other vehicles fluid changeouts including the Troop.
Perhaps I'm wrong, but I'm thought I've seen synth Dexron III... wouldn't that be designed to work appropriately in a tranny that uses Dexron III?
FWIW: I use RedLine motor oil in my Suzuki 50Hp outboard. It is maintained by the Suzuki marine mechanic who works on many more just like it. He was impressed by the lack of wear in my engine which did not need the usual valve adjustments for the amount of hours on it. I rev that outboard above the recommended RPM range all the time for extended periods so I am very happy to hear that the RedLineOil is working so well under such conditions.
-mike
http://www.detnews.com/2001/autos/0111/16/b01-345143.htm
2nd only to the 4-runner in the mid-size SUV category.
-mike
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Total cost $379. Compare that to installed VHS TV up to around $2000!!!
DVD player borrowed from home $0.00
tiny little TV $300
DC to AC inverter $79 for an overkill nice one
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The kids loved it. At home they are limited to one hour of TV a day. On a long trip its movie binging time.
Jim
-mike
So far never had the DVD skip at all even on bumps. I don't usually watch it while off-roading but shouldn't be a problem since the CDroms in Laptops don't have the cd floating, it's actually snapped into the CD unit.
-mike
-mike
Thanks
-mike
http://www.littlepassengerseats.com/
J.A.T. Designs:
http://www.jatdesign.net/
Very little info online - have to call an 800# or inquire via email
-mike
Jim
-mike
Jim
Jim: you have 265-70 or 75? Most of the guys go to 75, I didn't want that high an aspect ratio so I opted for the 275-70s.
-mike
Jim
-mike
-mike
-mike
I also have a rattle deep under the dash on the driver's side, but only when offroading over washboard roads, etc. Anyone else have this?
Thanks for your input, and all the helpful posts.
offroader
-mike
I personally wouldn't think my 99 Trooper would need a front-end alignment at 23k unless I hit a huge pothole or a curb.
Anyone else had problems with irregular tire wear, etc?
-mike
-mike