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Since you obviously have much more knowledge about this topic, what makes the Isuzu design so much more durable than the SHO's Yamaha engine? Or, am I just being paranoid/falling for internet based shop propoganda?
L8tr,
Back awhile I left a message about my daughters 00 trooper, 59,000 k using oil 1/2 qt. 100 mi. No leaks, dealer is installing a new motor. This week.
Marty
I own a '93 3.2L V-6 Gen II SHO ATX w/ 138k miles & a '98 3.4L V-8 Gen III SHO ATX at 60k. Both twin-cam engines require a valve shim check / adjustment at 100k. To my knowledge, my Gen II has never had the shims checked & I'm not planning to look at them anytime soon. The V-8's are prone to cam failure w/ its bad swaged sprocket design prior to the required valve adjustment. I'll let my Ford ESP handle the $8k - $20k for the repair / replacement when valves meet pistons (the V-6 Yamaha is a non-interference design .
The full Yamaha V-6 in the SHO is one fine engine & one of the best I've driven hard - near redline often. The link you refer to on the SHOtimes site applies to all Gen I & Gen II 3.0L Yamaha engines equipped w/ a MTX (manual transaxle) & requires a timing belt change at 60k, also - the ATX's have a hydraulic tensioner which lengthens the belt change-out to 100k. Doug is SHO guru mechanic, who has his own shop near Atlanta, made that observation / comment w/ some merit on performing the 60k maintenance on schedule w/ the MTX vehicles. However, many MTX's have gone 75k+ before the checks were made & found no issues. But again, an ATX usually doesn't see the frequent & sustained high RPM's as w/ a manual tranny - there is less wear. 3k oil & filter changes are known to extend the life of the shims, cams, etc. as opposed to 5k - 7.5k+ change-outs on dino juice.
Many reports have come in on ATX equipped SHO's that their shims did not need any adjustment or replacement, nor had any wear after 150k+ w/ proper maintenance...& they're driven hard. Similar reports have come from our local SHO club, as well, just to see. Some owners have gone ahead & either flipped the shims over if there was any signs of minor wear or replaced shims to meet the middle of the tolerance spec while they had the intake & valve covers off. A SHO shim kit w/ tools runs about $200 for the DIY. Dealer's want $900+ to check & replace shims. Some SHO specialty shops only charge around $600 w/ additional services performed. The shim checks on a Trooper would appear to be much easier to perform than on a SHO.
I'm not saying that it's not wise to check the adjustment - there could be warranty problems if the maintenance schedule is not followed. I am just saying that the 60k could be overkill in a Trooper w/ an automatic tranny & in an engine that is well maintained. 60k probably covers the bases for those who greatly extend maintenance intervals or maybe the shims are too soft. Anyone on the list had their's checked to advise?
DOHC's from the 50's & 60's usually required a much shorter timeframe for shim replacement.
Isuzu = TRUCK engine
Big difference in intended usage.
-mike
-mike
Thanks for your response.
Hills: Tow in 3rd or in D with the power button engaged. If you see it switching between 3-4 often then drop it to 3 so that it isn't hunting for gears
Interstate: Tow in D without the Power button. Make sure to get a good running start for hills. Yesterday I kept the 5500lb trailer going with med load in the vehicle at about 70-80mph with it dropping to 60mph on upslopes.
The key to towing is to make sure that the AT isn't shifting often. If it is you need to drop to a lower gear. The constant shifting heats up the AT and eventually burns it out. If you can cruise on the highway with it in D w/o it downshifting a lot, then you are golden.
I found that the Rancho 9000s set to 5+ in the rear and the OME springs helped out with towing 1000x better than my stock setup. I noticed that when I had the shocks set to 3 in the rear that the 5500lb load didn't like that at all. The other key is to make sure your trailer is properly loaded. I've found that towing a subaru on a Uhaul car-transporter that backing the car on produced a much better handling package than nose-in. My cousin's boat that I towed while on vacation was set perfectly for the trailer and that package weighted about 3000lbs.
-mike
In Australia, the Jackaroo has H4 headlight bulbs, but the same crappy reflector setup as the Trooper. Has anyone tried Narva +30 bulbs in a Trooper? They are supposed to output 30% more light than standard on low bean and 20% more on high beam, with the same power consumption.
-mike
-mike
I augment my stock lights with 130W IPF 800 lights. Great offroad...too powerful for anything other than remote country roads.
I run 275-70-16s.
-mike
-mike
What do those two numbers (255, 70) mean? I guess I should know this...
70 = aspect ratio
16 = rim size
so to get the sidewall size you take 255mm x .70, that gives you how big the sidewall is in mm.
A great calculator for figuring out how "off" your tires will be can be found at http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
-mike
-mike
So, my 1995 has 127K miles or so. Timing belt was done at 60K and 85K due to bad tensioner, so nexttiming belt is due at 150K or so. Along with that will be new water pump and tensioner. Maybe $400 to do this.
Other maintenance is taken care of already oils greases etc...
What about exhaust systems? My 1st Trooper a 1984 was on its second catalytic converter and third muffler at 200K miles. My 1995 exhaust looks pretty good considering the miles and years, but when is the exhaust normally expected to wear out on a 1995 Trooper? Has anyone replaced an exhaust system because of the original wearing out?
I can't think of any other expensive items to need repair between now and 200K miles on my 1995. Can you?
Buying a 2002 might save me $1000 over the next 4 years in timing belt, exhaust, and misc items like extra oil changes for ticking elimination.
Edmunds says my 1995.5 Trooper should sell for $6500.
New Trooper-S will be around $22000. So cost of going to the new one will be 22000 - 6500 - 1000 = $14500.
Or average price on AutoTrader is $8000, so the cost of getting a new 2002 might be as low as $13000.
Any other ideas to make this sound more attractive to my wife?
If I get a new 2002 Trooper I will have to drive it at least as long as I have driven my 1995. What are the chances of a "better than a Trooper" vehicle comming out in the next 7 years?
My second last car was a 84 Holden Commodore and it went through two exhausts in the 9 years I had it. My 95 Holden Commodore, which is now my in-laws car, has a stainless steel system and is still on its original exhaust with no sign of it giving up.
Will there be a "better than Trooper" SUV in the next 7 years? I should hope so! I'd hate to get to 2006, which is my planned change over year, and have to DOWNGRADE to a new vehicle.
My advice is if isn't broke, don't trade it in.
http://home.islandia.is/lr/images/Ólafsfjarðartrooper.jpg
* Rancho RS/9000 shocks
* Ultimate Suspensions torsion bars and long travel coils
* 4WD Systems 133litre fuel tank
* Pirelli Scorpion Zero 285/60R17 tyres on 17" rims for onroad use
* Michelin LTX A/T 265/75R16 tyres on standard rims for offroad use
* ECB Series 2 Flash Bar with integrated fog lamps (the lamps will need to be custom fitted)
* ECB Series 3 Tube side rails
* IPF 800 driving lights
* ARB front air locker & chassis mounted compressor
* Garland exhaust/intake upgrade
Total $9000AUS. I don't think I can get this past the domestic accountant.
Oh well, start cutting back the list!
Got pre-purchase jitters and wanted to know if others had a white one? I was also quoted a walkout price of 24500 for a grey S 4x4 that I'm considering. This is in the Atlanta area...do these prices sound fair?
Thanks.
The only disadvantage of white in this area (Pacific Northwest) is that it's hard to see in snow storm. I make sure my lights are on when the visibility is bad.
Need opinions: Is is a mistake to buy the last model year of a car? Are we better-off looking at Toyos or Mitsus?
If we do go for a new Trooper, should we expect to be able to get a great deal? The dealers should be looking to liquidate them at this point, right?
Any help/suggestions/opinions appreciated.
TrooperRIP
-mike
My buddy has an Acura Trooper with a factory hitch, He uses this Reese rack.
http://www.reesehitch.com/bike_4_carrier.html
It works well on his Acura Trooper, but I have to remove the spare tire cover for it to clear, and if I shake the rack around, it hits the spare wheel.
Has anyone else used a different hitch mounted bike rack?
I'm considering this Nashbar one:
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=71&subcategory=1019&brand=&sku=6416&storetype=&estoreid=
But I'd need a receiver extension so the hitch will clear the spare tire, like this one:
http://www.hitchesonline.com/drawbars/special_mount_main.htm#EXTENSION
Any other ideas? Thanks.
Thanks for the input.
/sigh
Steve
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Thanks.
Questions I'd rather have answered here before laying down my cold cash at a dealer.
Thanks again.
kev
Thule makes one called the "Thule Raider Bike 992" that can carry two bikes.
I think they are more expensive than hitch-mounted types. Though, to my way of thinking they are more practical.
For a hitch get the hidden hitch from JC Whitney, $125 shipped IIRC and it's about 1/2 hr install.
-mike
-mike
I have thought about a carrier off the back, either spare tire or hitch mounted? I like the roof because it puts more weight over all the wheels, putting some of it on the front suspension as well. I think a rear mounted rack will cause more drag on the rear when fully loaded (I realize the roof raises the center of gravity even more).
One of my major issues with the trooper is that it is rated at just under 1000lbs cargo capacity. 2 bikes, gear, clothing and 4 adults you are way over that. I have slated to upgrade to the OME springs at some point to address this issue. Hopefully the progressive rate will allow for more cargo weight capacity.