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Comments
Maybe that is the point of the lever. So you have to stop, take a second to think about what you are doing, and then you can go at it again.
-mike
I've also been able to come out of 4L on the move, but only at a walking pace and again only if in neutral. Is that what you experienced Mike?
Your Fronteras come with TOD over there???? We can't get TOD in our Rodeos over here!
-mike
-mike
-mike
http://www.holden.com.au/www-holden/action/modeloverview?modelid=- 10003
Interesting!
-juice
I still think I'm right (and now I'm edgy because of the cognitive dissonance produced by your excellent point). :0)
-juice
-mike
-mike
Woohoo!!! 50/50 4H!!! Unfortunately the check light flashes which is a bummer and so does the TOD display.
So I got to thinking as to whether or not by installing a resistor on that input, would you get a similar result without the check light and subsequent DTC's being generated.
What I might do is place a multimeter across this wire and measure the current and voltage at different speeds and situations. Then depending on the results, I may place an inline variable resistor and a straight 12v feed (ie...not from the speed sensor) on this input and then play with the resistor settings to see at what point I can get a 50/50 split without generating a check/dtc.
The logic I'm using is that the speed sensors feed current to the module. When this current is equal front and back, then the torque apportioned to the front is minimal. When there is a variation between the two then the torque apportioned to the front is increased. The greater the variation between the speed sensors, the greater the torque to the front.
This theory will come unstuck if the sensors work by sending pulses rather than current. Then we'll just have to put up with the check light and DTC.
Any thoughts guys? Will I be stuck with a 2WD at the end of this?
Doesn't Demi Moore drive an old Trooper or Trooper II in some movie as well? Maybe "Striptease"? I may have it wrong.
Actually there's a thought for www.isuzu-suvs.com, Mike. A "Troopers in movies" section. :-)
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Well that's my helpful input on this subject, but I'll be very interested to hear how it comes out!
I'm lucky in that I have a 4WD beach park only about 15 minutes from where I live for doing this stuff.
This modification is based on the message posted by emiura about a week ago.
I've posted this question on Japanese board but haven't gotten any responses yet.
-mike
-mike
The 4-low lever has a vinyl or leather surround on it. Why? Because it's directly connected to the transfer case and moves with the engine and transmission. Put your Trooper into gear, step on the brake, then blip the gas. That lever will move when the engine torques in its mounts. There is little doubt in my mind that the 4-low lever mechanically moves the low range gearset, as well as triggering SOTF if it is not already engaged. With high range, there is no gear ratio changes--only the TOD clutch engages electrically.
Mike, maybe your SOTF is just failing to disengage. I don't know if there are sensors up there monitoring--probably is though. Ford Explorers with an electrically-shifted transfer case used to freeze up unless they were exercised regularly. A couple raps with a ball-peen hammer usually freed things up. Give the SOTF a couple of whacks and see if it cures the problem. Can't hurt unless you wail on it. And it might even make you feel better {:)
Tom
Yeah my guess is the SOTF is not disengaging properly, probably due to being packed with tons of Ice and crapola from driving through countless 3' snow banks and what not.
I'm gonna wait til it has time to thaw out and see if it still is giving me trouble.
-mike
What eventually fixed it?
-juice
I've been reading a lot about the various benefits of this mod vs. loss of brief convenience and am seriously considering it. THanks.John.
Drawbacks - no more shift-on-the-fly. You must stop to engage the hubs before engaging 4wd.
Tom
-mike
I also don't see how you would lose TOD? If the fronts are engaged manually or automatically and the transfer case applied power to the front half of the drivetrain via the electromagnetic clutch you would still have that function?
So based on the above posts, it makes me think that the hubs on the TOD equipped troopers are always engaged, and the only way power is applied is either the TOD system or the center locker?
I believe there are others on this site who have done, yes?
With the manual hubs in the locked position your vehicle behaves EXACTLY as before. Namely the front hubs are locked in. To go in 4wd you still have to engage TOD or 4wd low (i.e. engage the SOTF unit and drive the front drive shaft from the TOD unit).
With the manual hubs in unlocked your hubs are now unlocked. This stops the tires from turning the front cvs. Herein lies the advantage - less cv wear and a nominal mpg savings from less moving parts.
My 99' is ready for its 30000 mile service. I was wondering what it entails and what its going to cost me. We use this vehicle purely for in town driveing and its never towed anything. I was wondering if I could take it to a local mechanic and do just the essential service items instead of letting the dealership bend me over. Any info will be appreciated.
TIA
Dodd
Plus, many dealers will add on even more 'services' at the typical maintenance intervals. Often, these are not needed but are simply there to give the dealer more revenue and profit.
I feel that I take pretty good care of our 1998 Trooper, but I have NEVER taken it anywhere and had a XX,000 mile service performed. I always look at the specified maintenance items in the owners manual, consider how our Trooper is driven (plenty of city driving, but not very hard-duty; no towing; no off-roading; light gas and brake pedals; etc.), and decide what things need to be done and when.
Your 1999 may have some of the 5yr/60k mile powertrain warranty left, so that's a consideration. However, it is very unlikely that you will 1) have any powertrain problems in the near future (with the possible exception of the intake manifold gasket, if yours hasn't been replaced under warranty already); and 2) have the dealer examine your service records to determine if they can deny the work under warranty due to improper or neglected maintenance. I.e. if your TOD unit dies, it won't have been because you didn't spend $600 on the 30k service and I think most all dealers wouldn't try to nail you on it. If they can easily get the warranty claim approved by Isuzu and get reimbursed for the work, they will gladly make the fix.
That's just my opinion.
Those are the kind of stories that really make me think dealers don't always perform all of the 'checks' and 'inspections' that they claim to perform. Or at the very least, they do a sloppy or cursory inspection when they should be doing more.
I was glad to learn, before I had any of the work done, that it makes sense to do the wheel bearing repack at the same time as brake work. I'm glad I didn't pay for this to be done at 50-60k, then need it re-done when a brake job was performed at 75k.
A couple of times the check light and TOD display kept blinking until I turned off the ignition and then started again.
It seems that it will usually return to normal after a few seconds.
It is a catch 22, I found a dealer that will do warranty work, reasonably well, so I cannot slam them too hard because I need to go back.
I've begun a number of aftermarket modifications, the latest of which was the install of a new Alpine CD/MP3 head unit. The install went fine save for a couple of things. So far, I have not been able to get the trim peive back on the unit as it is a tight squeeze. I'm hoping someone may have some tips? Also, the CD works great but my radio reception is very bad..full of static. I connected the larger of the two antenna wires but left the other alone. Does anyyone have any experience with these issues? Any advice would be welcomed. Thanks!
"In fact, I never even needed to use more than TOD to negotiate the 22" snowfall!"
TOD is not a lightweight AWD system. It is essentially 4WD High that has a clutch to allow for slippage between front and rears on pavement and neat computer tricks to re-route power as needed.