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Now I'll let you know, I drive my truck at 80+mph sometimes towing a 1500-5000lb trailer. I pretty much squeeze every ounce of performance out of my truck 95% of the time. So 1Q ever 1000 miles for me is not a problem.
I wouldn't let it comsume me.
-mike
Now your old man style has been clarified to mean -"I usually drive on highways (25 miles each way), my cruising speed is about 75MPH (2700 RPM)". That is like no old man I know of unless or course you are in the left lane with your blinker on the whole trip :-).
I readily admit the whole oil usage thing is frustrating and a mystery as there is clearly no definitive cause let alone cure. I still stand behind my theory that a dirty egr, pcv . . .etc. cannot help this situation. No doubt the factory too could be involved. But it does make me wonder how (let alone why) they could be assembling some engines and not others as oil burners all these years.
Like I said I don't have the answer only some thoughts that others are more than free to disagree with.
-mike
I am trying to ramp up for a big family vacation, and car problems with a vehicle with 30K on it is quite frustrating. I realize these are relatively minor issues, but I have burned 12 personal hours on this and 1/2 a vacation day so far. I am going to have to burn another 1/2 vacation day this week. Very annoying. I am toying with getting rid of this truck...I really enjoy driving it, but I cannot have these kind of headaches.
I need some quality time with my truck so I can once again feel good about owning it. If I have a problem on vacation I am pretty sure I will be dumping it.
I think I know what happened. I got a CEL and they probably just assumed all the codes were related to the IMG and not real. So anything else like the EGR valve, solenoid, etc probably just got reset and thought to be caused by the other problem.
I didn't realize that some of these Troopers burn 1 qt per 1000 miles! I know that a previous poster mentioned an aux. oil cooler helping. It might be worth trying.
Once I get more settled in at work, I'm gonna see about bringing it to the dealer about the oil problem. My biggest concern is that they'll pull the old 1Q/1000miles is within spec, and then they'll say "well you have the big [non-permissible content removed] bumper, bigger tires, trailer hitch, etc" so we won't cover it under warranty.
-mike
I drove home and this time I didn't get a CEL 5 minutes after leaving...Ahhhh it is nice to drive my truck again. It will take a little time to get some confidence back to take it more than 10 miles from home. I think I will make a road trip somewhere this weekend.
That would be pretty outlandish of them to make that kind of an observation... :0)
I have heard that if you get a CEL, the very first thing you should check is your gas cap.
I asked my service rep..."do you think I would buy a car from here? Would you?" I got "I understand your frustration".
The truck is barely 2 yrs old, with 31K, and I don't think the paint should be peeling!
Thanks!
I just had my IMG replaced and had the same symptoms. It took until I got a check engine light with the specific codes for the dealer to acknowledge it. It only took about 2 weeks from first symptom to being bad enough to register on the computer.
Have you had a shop look at it?
this car was in that shop countless times, mostly with serious stuff. the also had GUTS to ask us if we'd want to buy another Trooper from them... this was last year... also the same crap about understanding our frustration. yeah, right. another POS Trooper. No wonder Isuzu is in deep .... !
However, statistically, the Trooper is an very reliable vehicle. As usual, your mileage may vary.
-mike
If you are the Viktoria that was posting here before you have absolutely the worst experience of any Trooper owner I have ever read about with your dealer and your Trooper.
In any event here's wishing you good luck in the future.
results: they replaced spark plugs (I think this was unnecessary since per manual it supposed to have platinum spark plugs that should last up to 100K mi), also 'cleaned' 'carbon deposits' from EGR channel (?) and intake manifold (?). $370. I have a strong suspicion that above are neither the sources of the problem nor cleaning them will solve anything.
2 years left to pay for POS.
BF/Goodrich Open Trail T/A
Michelin Cross Terrain
Dunlop Rover T/A
Continental Contitrac
On another subject. Concerning dealers, I use Century Isuzu in Huntsville, AL. I have NEVER had a problem with warranty work and they roll out the red carpet every time I go there. They also service and sell Buicks, BMWs and Volvos. If it was Century Isuzu, Kia, Hyundai it might be a different story...
I really would like to get the Michelins but will probably go for the BF/Goodrich Open Trail T/A. Sam's club has them for $80. The Michelins are at least $50 more
What about Yokohama Geolanders? They seem reasonably priced. Any opinions on them?
Heck, I might take the Bridgestones off my wife's Rodeo, put them on my car and get her the Michelins.
I'm usually not a cheapskate on cars but with 3 kids, private school, dance lessons, Chuck-E-Cheeze, it adds up quick...
I have a 2001 Trooper S. I love the keyless entry, but could do without some of the anti-theft features like: being unable to lock my doors with remote while a door is open without the alarm going off, or reaching inside an open window and pressing the door unlock buttons without the alarm going off.
Does anyone know if I can disable the "alarm" part of this system but still leave the keyless entry features intact?
-Kevin
-mike
I don't know too much about bike racks, logic tells me that racks with two arms would be more stable than one like the nashbar. Anybody able to vouch or recommend another?
A friend of mine uses a similar one from Valley on his Accura SVX, but with a spare tire cover installed, it won't fit on the Trooper.
Dunno where you are, but if you are in the D.C. area, I'd be glad to let you try it on your vehicle.
-mike
thanks for the offer, but I'm in St. Louis. Couple of questions though.
On the Nashbar, did you need an extension bar?
Are the bikes fairly stable on the one arm?
Does it fold down without detaching allowing access to door?
Paisan-
You are far more the adventurer than I. I think I will leave my spare cover on, although it is tempting, but I believe my '02 has a non-alloy spare.
-mike
http://isuzu-suvs.com
It's 2.5 inch square steel. It's more than strong enough.
The bikes are fairly stable, but, like I said, a two point mount would probably be more stable.
Yes, it does fold down, but loaded with four bikes, you couldn't do it.
-mike
Now that summer is here again I brought it back to the dealer and everything checks out fine with the computers and they can't find a problem or recreate it.
Any ideas?
http://www.graberproducts.com/article/article_control.asp?nextFor- m=fDetailArticle&originForm=fDetailArticle&id=228&cla- ss=8&push=originForm%3DfDetailCategory%08nextForm%3DfAssociat- edArticle%08id%3D71%08class%3D8%08bctitle%3DRelated+Products
I have 2 types of racks. A Thule roof rack with fork mount carriers for my Trooper and a hitch mounted Thule for my MDX. I prefer the roof rack over the hitch mount. When the bikes are attached on the roof rack they are on and don't move around. The only drawback is having to hoist the bikes up to the roof.
I use the tilt back hitch mount for the MDX because it is hard to get bikes on top of any SUV and the MDX is my wife's car. The bikes move around a lot on the hitch mount and it is a pain to get in and out of the rear (even though the tilt feature is very easy).
Outdoorsports.com carries a lot of different racks and is very affordable, if not the best pricing you can find on the web.
-mike