Isuzu Trooper

boxtrooper · October 2003

The LitlePassengerSeat is essentially a thick wall 1" square tube welded frame with custom appholstry to match any vehicle. The match for my 1995 Trooper was not perfect, but it looked like it was a factory option. The bottom of the seat is a steel plate with four holes to accomodate grade 8 bolts that go through the floor to a pair of brackets bolted under the floor. Once installed the seat can be unbolted from above by removing the 4 bolts. The brackets below the floor are sturdy and remain in place when the top bolts are removed.
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Installation required pulling back the carpet to place the template accurately and to drill the holes from above. Then go below and line up and bolt on the brackets that stay down there. Push the carpet back down and cut holes over the drilled holes for the bolts to pass through. I use one of those new rachet built in wrenches and I store the wrench in the jack cubby under the jack's rubber strap so it won't rattle.
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I have not put the seat back into the 2001 yet for two reasons: 1.) I did not save the brackets from my 1995, so I need to order another set and 2.) My wife would like to add shoulder straps and head rests to the seat belts back there. I ordered it with three lap belts figuring that little kids don't like the shoulderstraps anyway and their heads were below the top of the seat anyway. Now they are bigger and the shoulder straps and head rests could get used. I have not contacted them to ask about adding those items to my seat which is the rigid model and I mount mine rear facing to create a storage space between it and the middle seat.
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LittlePassengerSeats will buy back used seats when you are done with them so they can recover them for the next customer, they are that sturdy.

http://www.littlepassengerseats.com/isuzu_trooper.htm

teacherjim · October 2003

I took my 2001 Trooper in to the dealer last week because the TOD display kept flashing when I tried to engage TOD. The dealer checked it and said it needed a clutch sensing unit. Since I only have 44,000 miles it is under warrantry. The dealer is in the next town so they said they would pick it up from my house. They picked it up and called me the next day and said it was fixed. When I got home I went out to check it out and took it for a short drive. Of course you know what I saw, a flashing TOD light!!. I called the dealer back and he said that they had installed the new part and the truck ran fine. I told him that I didn't believe him!, I said no one ever pushed in the TOD button or they would have seen it still flashing. The service manager agreed he had't checked it but he thought the tech said he had. The service rep said we will pick it up again in 3 days, I said why 3 days? he said their only certifled Isuzu tech has been gone all week at training!. He wanted the Isuzu tech to check it out, I Agreed!. Well they picked the car up 2 days ago and left me a loaner car. I called today and they told me that the tech is going to put in a new transfer case!!, he had heard some noise in it. I have never had any problems before with the Troop. This makes me wonder if the other Kia(other brand the store sells)tech screwes something up? Is the clutch sensing part in the transfer case. Well Lets hope when the truck comes back it is fixed!! No other dealer within 100 miles.

paisan · October 2003

I had mine replaced on my truck, they are external. I do think I need a T-case in mine cause it's a bit noisy. I'm gonna try to make an appointment in about a month to see what's up with it.

-mike

sbcooke · October 2003

Good luck...at least they are recognizing a problem and working to fix it. It may not be the transfer case, but if they keep on trying and give you a loaner you are in a much better dealership situation than me.

coupedncal · October 2003

Just wondering if the factory powertrain warranty for 120K miles on 2000+ Troopers is transferable to the new owner. I am looking to get into a used 98+ Trooper and just wondering if I should look for 2000+ so as to get the extended factory powertrain warranty. The couple of transfer case issues plus a few references to "blown" engine early on has given me cause for concern.

paisan · October 2003

Haven't heard of any yet.

And my transfer case if it fails, is not gonna be a common one (I do lots of towing and offroading)

The warranty is cut in 1/2 on 2nd owners.

-mike

boxtrooper · October 2003

was a case of the missplaced oil fill cap on a 3.2L I think. The owner, wanting to protect the oil fill openning but not able to find the cap, placed a tee shirt into the openning. The tee shirt was ripped apart and drawn through the engine doing enough damage that the engine was replaced. It was probably less expensive to get a junk yard engine than to overhaul the tee shirt eater.

sbcooke · October 2003

I swamped mine a few years back...however I cannot blame Isuzu...except for maybe the marketing campaign "Go Farther".

I can laugh about it now. I haven't heard about any engine failures. The T-case thing worries me, however I haven't read really many posts regarding problems with them.

Paisan, does the tranny flush get the T-case? Maybe a separate flush of it would resolve noise issues?

coupedncal · October 2003

isn't really a problem for me as I do most oil change, service stuff myself. Filling an occasional quart in between oil changes isn't really a big deal for me. But the reality is that my previous 95 maxima has totally raised my expectations of japanese car quality. I had that manual tranny maxima for four years and sold it at 140k with NO repair work except usual maintenance. Then in 2000, I decided to go in for a long term favorite, mercedes 300CE - the E class coupe from the old 124 series. It too was a pleasure to drive but after owning it for almost four years, the repairs needed to be done on the car got to be too high. I sold the car last night at the mileage of 150k. Still ran like new but leaking oil etc. I now want to go back to the japanese low maintenance quality for some time - if for no other reason - than to just recoup from the higher repair cost of the mercedes.

Can I get that from the Trooper ?

jimmyp1 · October 2003

other than a battery and a timing belt and routine servicing, which I pay dearly for at the stealership, but that's my problem, not Trooper specific. Many suggest, as I think you've heard, that the Trooper should be good for 200k miles.

boxtrooper · October 2003

I have driven nothing but Troopers since 1984 and I have had very very few problems. On the 1984 Trooper there was a bas bearing on a power steering tensioner, replaced with Isuzu's upgrade version. I replaced the throttle plate at the bottom of the carb at 180K to make it idle better. That is the extent of the repairs to my 1984 in 201K+ miles.
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On the 1995 in 142K+ miles I hade the lifter ticking issue show up but I was able to keep it quiet with close attention to oil changes. A power steering hose started a very slow seep leak and I had that replaced. That is all on the 1995 until it was totaled by rear ending.
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Now I have a 2001 with only 33K miles and so far no issues.
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That's 276K miles with very minimal problems, no expensive problems, and never a problem that made the Trooper unable to drive, even the 1995 was driveable after the wreck, but repairing air bags is too expensive.

paisan · October 2003

T-case has to be flushed or filled seperately.

I'm gonna try a drain fill on it before hitting the dealer for repair. It's due for it anyway.

-mike

pe1227 · October 2003

Hi there,

I have a noise on my 98 trooper that comes from the lower back of the engine. I have had the engine gone through with the connecting rod bearings replaced, thurst washers replaced, the piston pins checked, rings checked and the flex plate checked. So far everything looks good, but still the noise continues. Any ideas on what it could be?

It sounds like a small diesel engine, it is much more louder when cold and then fades a bit when it is warmed up. thanks for your input.

breakor · October 2003

Because I put a link to ITOG? If so what rule did that violate?

The point being if I don't know the rules I cannot try to follow them.

For those of you that didn't notice I responded to coupedncal in my post #8549. I pointed out some good and potentially bad Trooper points. He even responded. Now my post is gone.

paisan · October 2003

I think that you can't link to other boards with forums. Something whacky in our user agreement.

-mike

tidester · October 2003

Please read your email.

If you have questions about edmunds.com Town Hall policy refer to the Terms of Use (to which we all agreed when we signed on and which you can access using the "Member Agreement" link near the top of this page) or contact one of the hosts rather than straying from topic on the boards.

Thanks.

tidester, host

stever · October 2003

Your email bounced. If your address is wrong in your profile, fix it and I'll try again.

Steve, Host

teacherjim · October 2003

Well I talked to my dealership tonight and they said that they did order a new transfer case unit. They did not know for sure when the part would come in or when I would get the truck back. They gave me a new 2003 Kia to drive as a loaner. It was nice that they gave me a new car(1109 miles)to drive not some old winter beater. But I must say the Kia does not impress me very much. I asked the service rep what a new transfer case and install would be if I was paying for it. All he would say is A LOT!. Any one care to make an educated guess?.This is the first problem I have had in 44,000 miles, and hope the truck is fixed right as I really like the vehicle. By the way, I bought one of the first troopers in Michigan when they came out in 1984. It was silver with a cool red tape graphic on it. People always were asking what kind of truck is that. I drove it with mininal problems for 145,00 miles before I sold it.

slowfoot2 · October 2003

My 01 Limited with 32K (30K Dealer Maint Done at 31K) is causing a "bump" in the steering effort when turning the wheel. When turning I feel a hesitation or bump then normal than bump. Also, when I apply the breaks there is a groan from what sounds like the front right brake area. When I come to a complete stop the front end, right side, emits a sound like the chassis is not attached to the frame. Any ideas? I have an appointment with the local dealer tomorrow and I am nervous as they have made mistakes before:

  1. tire pressure at 11 pds in two tires after a tire rotation/balance.

  2. over filled oil by nearly a quart. I checked at home after the service and took it back. It was starting to make strange noise. Dealer changed the oil again.

  3. lost lug nut on front right wheel two days after another tire rotation/balance. Dealer re balanced the tire and replaced lug no charge.

So, this is why I'm a little nervous. I love this truck and it has been perfect except for the service.

Thanks for any input.

bluedevils · October 2003

which model did they give you as a loaner?

sbcooke · October 2003

start looking for a good import mechanic near your house. $100 at a local shop for non-warranty stuff and even minor warranty stuff is worth it not to have repeated trips. I am only using the dealership at this point for any major warranty items. Minor warranty items is not worth 5 trips to get it right.

I have had bad experience with the nearby (40 minutes) dealership. I am jaded and am now just paying out of pocket.

notbrockyates · October 2003

Crutchfield is selling a plug-in CD player and they also have a changer, too, but I would speak with them to make sure it's compatible. The catalog and online was a bit fuzzy about that. The player, though, pops right in and plugs directly into the back of the stock radio. I bought one and it took maybe 15 minutes start to finish, with removing the shifter panel and a few screws. I forget the name of it but if you do the search by car type for CD player it will show up. So far, works great and I didn't need a changer, just the single player so I'm happy.

buran · October 2003

after front collision i need to replace the radiator (among other parts) on my '02 trooper (20k miles). insurance company will only pay for aftermarket radiator.
my dilemma is: should i stay with aftermarket radiator or pay the difference ( ~ $200-300) for getting an original isuzu radiator? is there are any issues with aftermarket radiators? any comments are appreciated.
as far as my usage of the trooper: most of the times it is just commute to work, occasional mild off-road and towing.

buran · October 2003

T-case (w/TOD) on my '02 trooper was replaced also. it was only a small leak (ATF) from the case (at about 10k), but TOD was working just fine. so when i brought the truck to the dealer the technician heard some noise in the T-case that he didn't like. so he recommended to replace the whole unit. it took good 4 weeks before ordered T-case arrived. luckily i could still use the truck. once T-case unit was replaced i haven't had any problems (i am at 20k now)

sdc2 · October 2003

USA SPEC ICD-T107E

$185 shipped on Ebay, if you care to risk it.

I may just get one, because my changer is acting up again (this is the second one). It REALLY annoyed me when it stopped working 1 hour into a 21 hour drive a few months ago...

boxtrooper · October 2003

You need trustworthy detailed documentation on both the genuine Isuzu and the aftermarket parts along with the cost diference and the implications of the cost in time and money of a failure.
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If the insurance company cannot prove to you that the aftermarket parts are as good or better than the genuine Isuzu parts I think you can demand the genuine Isuzu parts.
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Tell the insurance company you are very concerned about engine protection and ask for documentated proof that the aftermarket part is as good as the genuine original. I bet it will be easier for them to back down and get you genuine Isuzu parts than to prove to you that the aftermarket ones are as good. As an alternative, ask for a guarantee in writing delivered before the part is replaced for the life of the vehicle that if the aftermarket part fails the insurance company will pay to replace the part and repair all related damage. Then they can evealuate how good the aftermarket part is at their risk.

ryanendres · October 2003

http://www.partscheap.com/isuzuclose.htm

They have a couple of CD players (Changers?) too.
-Ryan

sbcooke · October 2003

I suggest a complete upgrade. I added a JVC SX-990 MP3, CD, CD-R, RW player and it is great. I think it was around $175 from e-tronics and then another $20 for a cable from crutchfield. I found crutchfield to have good speaker prices, but more expensive on the electronics.

Net/Net it was still cheaper to go through 2 vendors, but for about $15 more it would have only been one order from crutchfield.

The player is great, doesn't skip, plays everything and has good features. Ripping my discs to MP3s is time consuming, but the overall storage increase is well worth it.

paisan · October 2003

put in a Genuine Isuzu Radiator.

-mike

teacherjim · October 2003

the loaner car the dealer gave me is a 2003 Kia Spectra. I saw the sticker in the glovebox and it shows the cars list at $14,400. This car has roll up windows and manual locks. It does have air, cd, etc. It's a 1.8 cylinder, and any of you that think the Miata has a underpowered 1.8 should drive this for a while!. The interior is cloth and is adequate. I can't see how they expect to sell this for 14,400. It might be all right at $12,000. Regardless of what I think of this Kia I am happy that the dealership gave me such a new car to use. Now I just wonder how long I wait for the new transfer case to come in.

breakor · October 2003

I think the insurance companies logic is that they don't automatically owe anyone a NEW OEM part. Instead they claim they owe you a part that is in as good a condition as the part was before it was damaged. For example, if you had a 10year old radiator they would note that a new non-OEM radiator is bound to be at least as good as if not much better than the old radiator you had in there. In otherwords there is no such thing as full value replacement insurance when it comes to cars. No doubt this logic saves the insurance companies a ton of money.

Buran, in the case of your 02 vehicle I think you could strongly argue that they owe you a new OEM radiator with at most $50 out of your pocket. Alternatively you might try St. Charles and see if they can get you a much better price on an OEM radiator. If you do, the insurance company might foot that smaller bill. Another option could be to find a high quality aftermarket manufacturer and get one of their radiators.

paisan · October 2003

I believe NY requires the parts to be replaced with OEM ones if requested by the owner.

-mike

breakor · October 2003

For a state-by-state breakdown of the actual laws try this link http://info.insure.com/auto/aftermarket/aftermarket_parts.cfm

dnestr · October 2003

Do all 3.5L engines have a personal number? I heard that <93 3.1 GM gas engine Troopers were sold on the U.S. market without the engine number, but nothing about 3.5L.

As I told here once my Trooper needs to be sold 'cause I want a diesel one.
I took it to Road Police Office yesterday and shown them all as it needs to be done according to a Law. Gosh, they didn't find the engine number though it was written in a Vehicle Card! So they sent me to the Main R.P.O. where I must be next week.
Well my Trooper doesn't want to choose a new owner.

Anyway, does anyone here know where is the number? and could be 3.5'Trooper without it?

All your inputs are very appreciated.

buran · October 2003

I expressed my concerns about aftermarket radiator to body shop manager (body shop itself is a part of isuzu dealership). he was very reasonable and agreed to negotiate the OEM radiator with parts department. so i just got off the phone with the body shop, they reduced originally priced OEM radiator from $1000 to $750 which matched the cost that insurance was willing to pay for. Good stuff!!!
now everything what is on the list for the replacement(after front collision) is OEM, but as Boxtrooper pointed out i have to make sure that OEM parts are actually installed on to my truck.
Thank you all for your input.

breakor · October 2003

I don't know about ALL 3.5s but per my 1999 manual there are 2 DOT VIN plates on the engine. Both are mid-engine just above the exhaust manifold. One is on each side of the engine.

Dnestr you might look there yourself. If you find them go back to the local office and show them. I would think the main office should have a VIN finding chart. Then again if you are not in the US maybe they don't have such labelings. Good luck.

dnestr · October 2003

firstly, thanks for your correcting me in English, I should have written "ID Marking", sure.

My truck was purchased in the US, that's why I'm asking here. But in Russia Troopers are pretty small in numbers and police doesn't know them well, I think. Though they must have to know in any case!

I checked there myself and found nothing, unfortunately.

buran · October 2003

Dnestr, what part of Russia do you live in? Is there are any official Isuzu dealers? I am curious how do you get parts and/or service. By the way I grew up in Russia too (rather former USSR). I came to the US in 1992, never heard about Troopers before coming here.

here is my email just in case satnavigator@yahoo.com

jd38 · October 2003

The TOD problem is just one example of many of declining Isuzu service. Since many Isuzu dealers are Isuzu/Kia/Hyundai they have tried to replace their testers with a "universal" problem finder to save money from buying one for each make. However, I have one of thsoe used on my Trooper and it came up with problems related to Kias (error codes that didn't correspond to my trucks configuartion)hopefully within a year these univeral testers will have most of the kinks worked out.

dnestr · October 2003

check your E-mail.

breakor · October 2003

On my 99 I could not find an ID tag on the passenger side. I found a space for one but there wasn't one there.

On the driver's side I could just barely see it but only if I used a mirror and a flashlight. It is under the middle coil pack on the driver's side and above the exhaust manifold. To read the number you will probably need a very small mirror, something like one a dentist uses. Without such a small mirror you cannot get the proper angle to see the tag.

For the record, your English is fine. I was not trying to correct you.

bsmart1 · October 2003

I had a similar problem to this. It turned out to be the front drive shaft inside the front wheel hub, had come loose. There is a C-ring/snap ring in there that holds the splined shaft in the proper location to engage the wheel when the vehicle is in 4 wheel drive. If the C-ring comes out, it will allow the shaft to flop around inside the hub and it will make some disturbing sounds. Mine made a noise when turning a sharp corner, or when hitting a pothole or speedbump. I thought I had a broken shock but realized the front wheel wasn't bouncing after a bump. I took the wheel apart and found the real problem was the snap ring laying in the wheel housing.

bsmart1 · October 2003

is the link to your website?? All those handy how-to things you had posted come in real handy.

stever · October 2003

Click on Paisan's name to get to his profile with all his links.

Steve, Host

dgluth · October 2003

My wife is looking for a trooper limited but not having any luck finding one. I suggested an LS and then add aftermarket leather but a salesman told her not all LS's have sunroofs. What is the deal? any help would be helpful.

Dennis

gprodick · October 2003

This sure sounds like a problem that has developed on my trooper. For a while now it has made a clunk, like a broken right front shock, when going over bumps. I have been unable to locate the cause.

This C-ring thing could be it. What is the procedure for checking the C-ring out? Is it an easy fix? Is it a safety issue?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

raydahs · October 2003

I've been meaning to ask those who have cranked up the torsion bars if they experienced any clunking in the front end since the adjustment was made. My 99' has done this exact same thing you guys are describing for over a year now, I thought it was something binding in the torsion bar area. Now I'm concerned that I might have let it go too long, if indeed this clip is the culprit. In addition to the clunking, I get this whining/binding sound when I turn right into my parking space at work. I've had the front wheel bearings packed and re-sealed at 30 & 60K, I wonder if the mechanic put it back on wrong? BSMART, you've been in there, is that possible?

Something else to consider, once a month I run a tank of gas with TOD on just to keep the seals moist, without any abnormal noises.

breakor · October 2003

It is possible for the bearing repack to have caused a problem. For example, if they left out or didn't properly reset the snapring that would allow a half-shaft to wander in and out. So would leaving out the adjustment shim(s) (not the hardest mistake to make) but to a much lesser extent. Also not properly tightening the bearings/hub nut would wreck havoc on the bearings and your could be hearing them. Lastly they could have used the wrong grease. For example one that isn't specified for the higher temperature of disc brakes could have failed.

As to what to do? Of course the definitive test is to open it up see. Lacking that there are a lot of relatively easy tests that you or a shop could do to try and pinpoint your problem. You might first jack it up and spin the tire. Try and find exactly where the noise is coming from. Also, a loose bearing should be easy to check by pulling on the top and bottom of the wheel and checking for play. You might be able to detect a snapring or shim problem by pulling on the halfshaft.

You could also have a totally unrelated problem like a bad cv. Carefully inspect the boots for any tears.

bsmart1 · October 2003

it quite well. YES it can be put together wrong which will allow the snap ring to either bind and snap off or just sit in the groove until its worn in two. When I took mine apart, I found that the snap ring had worn significantly, but finally popped out of the groove. I noted the orientation of all the parts, and took the opposite side apart to compare. Sure enough, the bad side had some spacer rings in the wrong place, and I think one of the other splined parts was in backwards.

You will need an exploded view of the wheel bearing assembly to make sure everything is oriented properly. But, look very closely if you disassemble it and draw your own picture as you take each part off.

raydahs · October 2003

so many things happened at 60K, scheduled maintenance, new tires & rims, OME shocks and 3 turns on the torsion bars, guess it's just a process of elimination.

I do my own tire rotations every 5K. I noticed from day one, if you rotated the fronts to clock the stud at 12 o'clock, I hear a ticking as it rotates, almost like an indexing sound, I just assumed that this was normal for TOD?

Another thing, the clunking I get is intermittent and only on high speed compression hits, same for others?

Isuzu Trooper

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