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Comments
-mike
In your case you could now have gasoline dripping past the diaphram (or trying to flow around the FPR like you noted) into a clear plastic line. How heat and chemical resistant is that plastic? Many hardware store varieties for example aren't very. How well is it capped? How long do you have to drive around with such a jury rigged system? The point being this setup may help the car run better but at what added risk of fire? I personally would make the dealer get that tubing out of there ASAP.
http://www.mastercrafttires.com/us/en/ProductDetails.asp?ProdType- - =LtTruck&id=209
Made by Cooper
-mike
But my hand may be forced now - in the last few days I have noticed one of my tires has a slow leak, was down to 15 psi yesterday.
The Scorpions are at least $40 more expensive (per tire) than they were last time I bought, so I am looking at other options. I like the design of the Nitto Terra Grapplers, but they aren't any cheaper than the Scorpions. Yokohama Geolanders are cheaper, and with pretty good reviews...who knows.
-mike
-mike
I was looking at the Yokohama Geolanders, but they are rated at 360 for treadwear, and the Nittos are rated 500, along with Traction A, and Temp B ratings. That's better than most tires in this category.
-mike
Nine miles were put on the Trooper in a test drive as the odometer so indicated. Service asked me if anyone else had done an alignment on the truck and I pointed to a perfect maint record with them except for one oil change. I could tell my answer was not what was expected.
Informed "one bolt was backing out" and another bolt on the control arm was very loose. Said problem was fixed, no charge and as computer was down no paperwork. I have since called for the paperwork to be mailed to me.
I have no clue what they did to my Trooper at the 30K $468.00 service plus an additional 98.00 for a PVC valve but clearly they had caused the problem. Seems like everytime I go in for service I need more service to fix the service. Lesson learned at last.
Thanks for all the input.
I do the fluids and that's about it, IMHO.
-mike
I would agree with Mike that most of the '00 & '01 LSs had it included as an option.
Bill
After 3 subsequent trips to the Isuzu dealer it is fixed. They said that all along it was going into and out of 4WD, but a bad control unit was not reporting this to the relay that controls the SOTF light.Total cost: St. Charles $135; Isuzu dealer $235 parts and $145 labor = $515 plus tax.
I also had the dealer look into (again) a noise I've had at the right wheel since shortly after they re-did the front brakes a year and a half ago. This time they actually heard the noise (hooray!!) and took the front right hub apart, saw nothing wrong, re-assembled it and said the noise had somehow gone away. By time I drove home it was making the clicking, scraping noises again as I pulled into the garage. I will bring it back, but a question: I have a feeling they cut the rotors too much when they did the brakes and the clips that hold the pads are not holding them firmly, so when you put the brakes on the pads move too much and rattle around until they contact the disc. I had a problem like this with my 95 Protege and the dealer eventually replaced the discs (at my expense @ 45K miles). The noise went away. I feel if the dealer cut the pads too much they are responsible.
Anyway I wonder if this may also relate to the discussion recently of "C" rings in the front axle hub? The dealer says they took everything apart and it was A-Ok - but who knows.
Help!!
Thanks folks
Other than that, I have been thrilled with the truck. '00 LS with 52k miles.
If anyone is interested, here is my Excel spreadsheet of usage over 57,000 files:
http://www.isuzu.8k.com/First-57k-miles.htm
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I think spark plugs and wires (if yours has wires) would help out the MPG. A clean air filter or K&N drop in replacement would help too. Then some small amount of valve timimg error may be beginning to add the the performance issue.
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Or it could just be that you are tracking the changes in your local fuel recipe which might be dictated to local suppliers by government regulations.
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I stopped recording the MPG every time with my 1995 Trooper at about 60K and have not started that with my 2001. I decided it is not worth the stress it was giving me to worry about it, and that a big change in economy would be noticeable without the day by day recording so I am laid back about MPG now.
Any feedback on Isuzu dealers for repair/maintenance in DC/Metro area? Am only a couple of miles from Gaithersburg Isuzu but don't know anything about them. Who have you had either good or bad experiences with?
Thanks!
Their service writer has been there forever and has been helpful when I've talked to her.
I've only driven them a few miles, but they are extremely quiet, and handle nicely.
I never have an issue in the first 20 minutes of driving, it shifts super smoothly into TOD. However after 30-45 minutes of driving I wait until I can slow to under 10 MPH or stop to engage it.
Perhaps some systems are getting damaged by engaging TOD at higher speeds after warm-up?
Looks like a test drive is in my future.
http://www.isuzu.com/index.jsp
I bought the resistor from St. Charles. Does any one know the location of this resistor?
Thanks
Sam
http://www.isuzu.com/direct_injection_engine.jsp
I guess the low end torque might be due to not having to use the air moving in the intake manifold to carry to fuel air mixture. The low end torque would be awsome off road or towing. It would also be a lot of fun with a stick shift anytime.
A possible solution is to use sea foam in the oil, in your gas, and into your intake. Follow the directions or take it to a qualified mechanic.
Good Luck!
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Do you have other symptoms? Pinging etc..
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If you are burning all that oil in one cylinder there might be 1 fouled plug and the other 5 cylinders working harder to make up for it gives lower MPG?
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If all the plugs look oily, you may be able to swap to a hotter plug to burn them clean.
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Are your spark plug wires (if you don't have coil over plug) original?
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Air filter clean?
Did you ever notice how well your Trooper runs on a real cool morning compared to a hot summer day? Well, thats what you'll experience when you install this simple little modification. You'll get that little extra peppy feeling ALL the time.
More details later....
Now if they would only start importing the DMax deisel!
http://www.isuzu.co.jp/world/product/dmax/powertrain.html
What is the experience of others here? Can you hear your xfer cases spinning, or are they quiet?
Just my $.02. If you feel a benefit then I would really like to know how it is acheived.
In addition to the gas and oil treatment noted by Ryandres you should make sure your EGR and PCV are carbon free. If you don't take this step you will be right back to where you started. Namely if the EGR is plugged the engine will therefore run hotter. This will form carbon that will easily plug up the undersized drain holes on the rings. Conversely if you only attack the EGR and PCV pieces of the puzzle, you will very quickly plug them back up if you don't clean the rings/oil with a fuel and oil treatment. Again, you must try to clean the rings, oil, EGR and PCV. If you miss just one item (well maybe with the possible exception of the PCV, but it is easy to clean so I am throwing it in there to cover all bases) you will have done little if any longterm good. Also changing your oil at no more than 3k miles should help prevent the problem from recurring.
Again, just my hopefully helpful $.02.
Do you hear the noise with the engine running but the vehicle stopped? If so that would tend to rule out the transfer case.
In any event a check of AT and TOD unit fluid levels and condition sounds like a good idea to me.
Now all of this is done with the (IAT) intake air temperature sensor. The computer senses the intake air temperature and adjusts the timing of the spark to optimize efficiency and performance.
This sensor is a thermistor with a negative temperature coefficient. As the temperature rises, its resistance goes down. As the temperature decreases the resistance goes up. The thermistor is part of a RC time constant that affects spark timing and pulse width or duration.
On my sensor the resistance measured 2500 ohms at about 75 degrees, and 5000 ohms at about 40 degrees.
The mod inserts a fixed resistance in place of the thermister, to simulate at cooler temperature and this affects the timing of the spark, which puts the engine timing at a different point on the power curve.