In all seriousness, though you can get an SAFC which will adjust the timing and you *CAN* get more power by adjusting the timing. The problem is that you need to run a higher octane fuel to achieve this. Thus you will get more power, less milage, and fuel costs that are about $2.50-$5/gal
thanks for the ideas. Now I just need to make time to have the EGR cleaned, PCV checked and/or replaced, and to run a fuel/oil treatment through. I periodically run a couple bottles of Chevron ProGard (appears to be a more specialized version of Chevron's Techron, with less of the actual Techron 'good stuff') with a new tank of gas, but that along with my other maintenance (oil changes usually at 3k but sometimes as long as 4k, new plugs at 75k, etc.) has not slowed the problem.
Where is the EGR valve located? Is the cleaning an easy DIY procedure? I'm not familiar with that one.
Checking/replacing the PCV valve is very easy. If you can blow air freely through the valve in one direction but not the other, then the valve is probably fine. A replacement only costs a few dollars at any auto supply store and is trivial to install.
Feel free to email me at: ryan_endres@juno.com and I can send you a link to a write up and a photo to. I posted a link here early today but it disappeared. You know the rules here . . . I hope my post sticks around for you to read, here is a photo of the EGR:
I thought that I also heard similar noise on my '02 troop auto w/TOD. It started after xfer case was replaced (original problem was just leaking). The noise appears at exactly the same condition - only when vehicle rolls, technician told me that this is a normal ops for a new unit. It is hard to tell, because I don't exactly remember if I had this noise prior to xfer case replacement. However, TOD and low range seems to work fine, but I only put ~5-6k miles (mostly highway) since the replacement. BTW I checked fluid levels and it is ok. I hope this noise it is just what tech said, a new TOD normal ops, but who knows ?.
You right sbcooke, when TOD is engaged it is probably normal to have some noise, but what bawbcat and I have is a noise while TOD is off and vehicle rolling, it doesn't even matter what gear or speed you're on. The noise goes away when vehicle is stationary (engine still running, gear selection doesn't matter) or you are literally crawling, below ~10mph.
Has anyone here compared the manual and auto Troopers to see how the manual tranny models perform without the ToD ? Do the manual tranny models rely on driver to shift to 4 High if experience rough conditions ? Is there any other traction control type of gear to give manual tranny models with similar capability ? Could someone provide feedback on this ?
If you are looking for smooth ride over dirt roads & control, go with Tokico Trekmasters. http://www.tokicogasshocks.com. They really work as advertised.
The 5MTs you can only use the 4wd on non-paved roads/snow covered roads, there is a rear LSD but that's the extent of the traction control involved with the 5MTs.
As I know, most of 5MT's owners drive in 2H mode all the year even in such "snow covered" country as Russia. They switch 4H/4L modes on off-roads during short time only. If 5MTs Trooper is what you'd buy, probably, you should think about 2WD model instead 4WD.
I used my 99 trooper w/auto tranny, w/TOD all the last year with "non-winter" tires, just simple "all-season" . So that was fine.
But I'm sure, non-TOD t-case is more robust 'cause more simple.
My heater/AC fan ticks now...well for a long time. I was reading about someone replacing their blower a few back. Did this fix the problem? Do others have a heater/AC fan that ticks. So far to solve this problem, I just turn the radio on.
One time I had that problem, thought I had to replace the motor due to a bad bearing. Took the motor out from under the dash...and there was a dried leaf caught in the squirrel cage. Pulled out the leaf, problem solved!
I had a similar problem with my ’99. The frequency was based on the speed of the motor. It was barely noticeable at low setting, but increased in sound and pace the higher the setting. I put up with it for a year or so and then had the motor replaced under warrantee.
On the manual 5 speed Trooper 2001 there is a 4wd button on the dash and a high/low range lever on the transfer case and the front hubs are always locked. On the manual 5 speed 1995 Trooper there is a 2wd/4high/4low lever on the transfer case and auto locking hubs on the front axles. .. In the 2001 2wd/4wd is advertised as an on the fly thing you can do. .. In the 1995 if you want to shift 2wd/4wd on the fly then first from a stop engage 4wd and drive forward a few meters, then as long as you don't back up, the auto hubs stay engaged, while the auto hubs are engaged you can shift 2wd/4wd on the fly for example when the road is moslty clear but there are patches of ice. .. In all Troopers you should only shift 2wd/4wd or 2wd/TOD while all four wheels are turning the same speed as it going straight and not spinning a tire. .. I went to great length to get a manual 5 speed replacement for my totaled 1995 manual 5 speed because I like the fun of shiftng. .. Comparison of manual transmissions in Troopers: . 1984 4 speed manual was best easiest shifting transmission I have ever driven in any vehicle. 70 MPH = 4200 RPM One time I was stuck so good that I could not turn the tires, only burn the clutch be revving to >5500 and stepping off the clutch pedal. . 1995 5 speed stiffer (cushioned stiff feel) than the 1984, but very good feel, no problems. It worked easier using RedLInOil.com's MTL transmission fluid. 70 MPH = 3100 RPM .. 2001 5 speed as stiff or stiffer (bare metal hard stiff feel, feels efficient for the transmission) than the 1995 and the MTL made less of a difference in shifting effort. This one has a weakness: When in 3rd gear, if you did not place it firmly enough in gear it can pop out of gear. 70mph = 2700 RPM . On all three after a month I hardly realize I am shifting. The 2001 has a bunch more torque than the 1995 and feels lighter to drive overall. On all three I have had the clutch last the life of the vehicle.
I've had an '86 and a '99 both 5-speed. The '86 shifted smooth as silk. I wanted a 5-speed so bad on my '99 that I purchased a base and added an aftermarket stereo, leather, fog lights etc.
I was looking at rodeo sports the other day and was surprised that a 5-speed is only available with the 4-cylinder engine. That's ashamed, a 5 -speed 3.2 combo sounds like a lot of fun in such a small package.
Could you please look up the location of the blower motor resistor (that controls the blower fan speed). Mine went bad (switch only works on the highest position). Tried under the glove box area with no luck.
One easy way I can tell from the exterior, the S versions have the radio antenna on the Right front fender, LS has it in the rear windows. Another way is the S has Black side mirrors, the LS has colored. Once you get inside their are too many to list.
I am looking at my 99 manual, the resistor is shown on an exploded diagram...it appears to be mounted on the side of a short duct section between the blower motor assembly and the AC evaporator assembly. This duct section flares larger from the blower to the AC, looks like there are a few flex pleats in it, too, toward the larger end.
The manual describes a process with an ohm meter to test the resistor, not sure I can convey it with words, but I'll try.
Remove the connector. There are 5 terminals shown - 3 in the top row, and 2 on the bottom row with a empty space between. From left to right, top to bottom, they are numbered 3, 2, 1, 6, 4 (5 missing).
At fan speed switch position 1, test between terminals 1 and 2, should be 2.4 ohms.
At fan speed switch position 2, test between terminals 2 and 4, should be 0.90 ohms.
At fan speed switch position 3, test between terminals 2 and 6, should be 0.28 ohms.
At fan speed switch position 4 (high), test between terminals 2 and 3, should be no resistance.
Another quick way to tell is by the stock wheels. The S has 5 spoke wheels, while the LS has the mesh alloy. I've noticed that about 1/2 of the used "LS" Troopers on the market are actually "S". If you don't know what to look for, you could get taken.
Thanks for the info. I will try in the AM. If it is all possible, could you elaborate more on the location of the resistor? Is it near the center console, or between the blower motor and the fender?
I tried this weekend again (before you post) and just couldn't see it.
beware that an LS Trooper that started life as a rental may have been custom optioned by the rental vehicle purchase contract. I shopped around after my 1995 was totalled, I found the "rental fleet LS" was just an S with an extra 12V outlet by the back door and a few other little things. Not the same as what the new car dealers sell to end users like us. .. I also found that the former rental Troopers had mis-matched tires, example one or two of the tires on the ground were a different type.. strange.
If you are buying a used Trooper, I wouldn't worry too much about it from a price perspective. Trooper's aren't that hot of an item. You can probably run all the numbers at the S level and bargain from there.
As far as features? If you are set on an LS's features then you need to be sure you are getting what you want. I have an S with auto/TOD. I am not sure what options the LS had over the S, but I cannot imagine a lot...perhaps leather seats? The cloth are wearing well in my 1999.
If I am reading the diagram correctly, the duct section is inboard of the blower motor. If you are looking at the dash, from right to left there is the blower motor, the duct and resistor, the AC evaporator assembly, then the heater core assembly which is about in the middle of the dash.
If you want you can swing by and look at the manual, it is much easier to understand the diagrams than me verbalizing it.
I've also wondered how or what determined which trim level. I don't have the LS decal on the C pillar, but do have deeply tinted/reflective windows, AC outlets everywhere, rear side window antenna, and upgraded wheels. Conversely, I don't have leather, moonroof or CD player. I'm fairly sure it's an "S", but think it may have some upgrades, but am not sure...
With some manufacturers, you can go the the service tech and give them your VIN and they'll print out the vehicle's "build sheet". Has anyone done this out of curiosity regarding the used Trooper they bought?
chaser1 - I just took a look at my 99' w/performance pkg. (same as LS). On the firewall next to the wiper motor is a I.D. plate with multiple codes for Engine type, Tranny type and so on. In the middle of the plate, it says "B.COLOR/TRIM" with codes next to them, mine is 752/113. Underneath that is a list of option codes too. Maybe others with the "S" model can take a look and see what the "TRIM" code it is? Or maybe you can call the parts dept. for an answer.
Another thing to look for, the "LS" models typically have manual seat height/angle adjusters on the driver side, both have armrests.
Thanks a bunch, I will give it another shot from your description. If not it will be great if we can meet.
BTW, I may be getting a 2002 LS, 19,000 miles, looks, smells, and feels band new, for an incredible $13.5k. All depends on how much I can get for my 99.
Hi Guys Remember me the one with the 265,000 KM on the 94 Trooper with the ticking engine. I was concerned about driving it 500 miles to the dealer, but it didn't seem to bother it, it just ticked it's way there. The noise got louder to the point where I had to do something it was driving me crazy. It turned out to be the Timing Belt Tensioner. Replaced it and all is well in Trooper land. Thought I would let you know, it sure sounded like lifters, but it seemed to be coming from deeper down in the engine. This is the 3.2 DOHC.
Chaser1 - I just got a print out on my Trooper last Friday. The dealer was glad to do it. It is worth the time to get it for the information it provides: Model (S, LS or LTD) selling dealer, mfg. and in-service date, accessories, any dealer service, etc.
For the differences in the models, I held out for the LS. An LS should have 6 disc CD, power retractable/heated mirrors that match paint, 8 way power/heated seats, mesh wheels, a huge sunroof (option), etc.
I can't believe it! My Trooper's computer does NOT realize that it can't provide more power just because I installed the 20+HP modification, which isn't really a modification anyway. How can something so simple actually work?? Some things in life you just gotta accept.
I would like to add more lights to my truck (I drive on small winding, dark roads at night). It has to be bright, but not blinding for other drivers. Recommendations are appreciated
I have 130W IPF 800 series on my bull bar. They are great offroading at night. It is like daylight in front of the truck on the trail. However they are not very good driving lights.
ARB or IPF makes/carries some regular wattage low/high beam aux lights that might be good for driving. Check out
From Central Jersey down to Northern VA and back on business. No AC, 70MPH most of the way. A lot of stop go crossing the Potomac and related Northern VA I-95 constuction conga line traffic. Just about made it back on one tank. Final result - 19.6 mpg Not too bad for a 2K Trooper w/ 104K. Usually I'm 16 to 17.5 or so. Cheers to all.........
That's nice mileage for a Trooper. Is it a 2 wheel drive model or a 4X4? I have a 2 wheel version that has gotten 21 mpg under ideal conditions at 70 mph with AC on. I'm thinking of putting the 20+HP mod on it to see if it affects it any or not. The mod helped my 99' Trooper quite a bit. It acts more like my 2001 Trooper now with the mod. Not quite as strong, but significantly better than it was. I'm still monitoring the mileage to see what its doing. Will make a trip this weekend and see what the results are.
My 2K "s" is 4WD. Hoping to go to 200K if it stays running like it is. Still trying to decide on upcoming tires though. I thought I might try something different than the stock B-Stones.
I am looking for suggestions on window deflector (4 pcs) for my '02 Troop. Did anybody had a bad experience with Tape-On type of installation? I already tried Snap-On type (no drilling, no tape) by WeatherTech, had to ship it back (to JCWhitney) since "Germany Made" deflector would not fit in the front window channels. All suggestions are appreciated.
nothing but positive. I too had concerns that the glue would not work let alone last. But with almost five years on some items the glue is holding just fine. I think the only issues are - that you get the application area clean of dirt and wax (i.e. clean and use the included alcohol swipes), that the item uses a quality tape such as 3M, and that you get it exactly where you want it the first time as once it attaches it is not easy (or even possible) to move. Good luck, I HTH.
I bought my 2001 Trooper new and am now getting close to 50,000 miles. My question is, Is the warranty 3 years 50,000 miles for everything?, and then the 10 year 120,000 mile limited warranty take over?. I thought it was 5 year 60,000 mile warranty for everything then the 120,000 mile took over. Someone please clear this up for me. Thanks--Jim
Comments
In all seriousness, though you can get an SAFC which will adjust the timing and you *CAN* get more power by adjusting the timing. The problem is that you need to run a higher octane fuel to achieve this. Thus you will get more power, less milage, and fuel costs that are about $2.50-$5/gal
-mike
Checking/replacing the PCV valve is very easy. If you can blow air freely through the valve in one direction but not the other, then the valve is probably fine. A replacement only costs a few dollars at any auto supply store and is trivial to install.
I hope my post sticks around for you to read, here is a photo of the EGR:
-mike
I think some noise from it while in operation is OK.
Thanks.
The 5MTs you can only use the 4wd on non-paved roads/snow covered roads, there is a rear LSD but that's the extent of the traction control involved with the 5MTs.
-mike
Ryan, if you could send paisan the writeup so he could post it on his site, that would be great.
off-roads during short time only. If 5MTs Trooper is what you'd buy, probably, you should think about 2WD model instead 4WD.
I used my 99 trooper w/auto tranny, w/TOD all the last year with "non-winter" tires, just simple "all-season" . So that was fine.
But I'm sure, non-TOD t-case is more robust 'cause more simple.
..
In the 2001 2wd/4wd is advertised as an on the fly thing you can do.
..
In the 1995 if you want to shift 2wd/4wd on the fly then first from a stop engage 4wd and drive forward a few meters, then as long as you don't back up, the auto hubs stay engaged, while the auto hubs are engaged you can shift 2wd/4wd on the fly for example when the road is moslty clear but there are patches of ice.
..
In all Troopers you should only shift 2wd/4wd or 2wd/TOD while all four wheels are turning the same speed as it going straight and not spinning a tire.
..
I went to great length to get a manual 5 speed replacement for my totaled 1995 manual 5 speed because I like the fun of shiftng.
..
Comparison of manual transmissions in Troopers:
.
1984 4 speed manual was best easiest shifting transmission I have ever driven in any vehicle. 70 MPH = 4200 RPM One time I was stuck so good that I could not turn the tires, only burn the clutch be revving to >5500 and stepping off the clutch pedal.
.
1995 5 speed stiffer (cushioned stiff feel) than the 1984, but very good feel, no problems. It worked easier using RedLInOil.com's MTL transmission fluid. 70 MPH = 3100 RPM
..
2001 5 speed as stiff or stiffer (bare metal hard stiff feel, feels efficient for the transmission) than the 1995 and the MTL made less of a difference in shifting effort. This one has a weakness: When in 3rd gear, if you did not place it firmly enough in gear it can pop out of gear. 70mph = 2700 RPM
.
On all three after a month I hardly realize I am shifting. The 2001 has a bunch more torque than the 1995 and feels lighter to drive overall. On all three I have had the clutch last the life of the vehicle.
I've had an '86 and a '99 both 5-speed. The '86 shifted smooth as silk. I wanted a 5-speed so bad on my '99 that I purchased a base and added an aftermarket stereo, leather, fog lights etc.
I was looking at rodeo sports the other day and was surprised that a 5-speed is only available with the 4-cylinder engine. That's ashamed, a 5 -speed 3.2 combo sounds like a lot of fun in such a small package.
Thanks
Thanks!
The manual describes a process with an ohm meter to test the resistor, not sure I can convey it with words, but I'll try.
Remove the connector. There are 5 terminals shown - 3 in the top row, and 2 on the bottom row with a empty space between. From left to right, top to bottom, they are numbered 3, 2, 1, 6, 4 (5 missing).
At fan speed switch position 1, test between terminals 1 and 2, should be 2.4 ohms.
At fan speed switch position 2, test between terminals 2 and 4, should be 0.90 ohms.
At fan speed switch position 3, test between terminals 2 and 6, should be 0.28 ohms.
At fan speed switch position 4 (high), test between terminals 2 and 3, should be no resistance.
Good luck, let us know how it goes.
Jim
I tried this weekend again (before you post) and just couldn't see it.
Thanks
..
I also found that the former rental Troopers had mis-matched tires, example one or two of the tires on the ground were a different type.. strange.
As far as features? If you are set on an LS's features then you need to be sure you are getting what you want. I have an S with auto/TOD. I am not sure what options the LS had over the S, but I cannot imagine a lot...perhaps leather seats? The cloth are wearing well in my 1999.
If you want you can swing by and look at the manual, it is much easier to understand the diagrams than me verbalizing it.
With some manufacturers, you can go the the service tech and give them your VIN and they'll print out the vehicle's "build sheet". Has anyone done this out of curiosity regarding the used Trooper they bought?
Another thing to look for, the "LS" models typically have manual seat height/angle adjusters on the driver side, both have armrests.
BTW, I may be getting a 2002 LS, 19,000 miles, looks, smells, and feels band new, for an incredible $13.5k. All depends on how much I can get for my 99.
Remember me the one with the 265,000 KM on the 94 Trooper with the ticking engine.
I was concerned about driving it 500 miles to the dealer, but it didn't seem to bother it, it just ticked it's way there. The noise got louder to the point where I had to do something it was driving me crazy.
It turned out to be the Timing Belt Tensioner. Replaced it and all is well in Trooper land.
Thought I would let you know, it sure sounded like lifters, but it seemed to be coming from deeper down in the engine. This is the 3.2 DOHC.
flin4
For the differences in the models, I held out for the LS. An LS should have 6 disc CD, power retractable/heated mirrors that match paint, 8 way power/heated seats, mesh wheels, a huge sunroof (option), etc.
ARB or IPF makes/carries some regular wattage low/high beam aux lights that might be good for driving. Check out
www.arbusa.com
Cheers to all.........
-mike
I had them on my nudge bar, and then moved em to my ARB Bumper afterward.
-mike
All suggestions are appreciated.
I think the only issues are - that you get the application area clean of dirt and wax (i.e. clean and use the included alcohol swipes), that the item uses a quality tape such as 3M, and that you get it exactly where you want it the first time as once it attaches it is not easy (or even possible) to move.
Good luck, I HTH.