I too agree with you that the Sequoia is a premium vehicle with little probability of expected future repairs and that insurance companies make $$ on the policies. Electronic goods ext. warranties are big money makers. Although, I have a brother-in-law with a Tundra and the window switch went out after warranty, the switch alone is $300 not including installation. Hopefully this will be the limit of his expected costs. At todays labor rates and part's mark-up the $1150 just might be insurance for peace of mind over 7 years to limit one's financial exposure.
so in your brother-in-law's case he is still better off right now not getting the extended warrenties ($300+labor is still far cheaper than 1150)
when i bought my 98 corolla i spent $1000 for the extended warrenty, i think it's totally waste of money. within the period i just don't what to wish, should i wish that problem will emerge to justify the $1000 warrnty or should i hope the vehicle will go smoothly. so i came up with the conclusion, may be when i buy my next car i should worry about the expenses later and skip the extended thing. i told myself even if it will cost me $2000 for repair a few year later, (which is very unlikely) i'm only paying $1000 more, and it's in the future, (not counting the interest i save on putting $1000 more on down payment if i skip the extended warrenty) but if i bought the extended warrtenty, i will surely loose those money now no matter what is gonna happen...
when i bought my sequoia i think i paid $1000 more than the good deal (i paid $2000 off MSRP) but when i know people putting their money on extended warrenty, i told myself i'm getting just the same deal
pschreck: on you question "Isn't New Jersey a fairly flat state topographically? That would certainly account for low wear on your pads compared to a area with hilly terrain. Just a thought."
The state is generally flat, however I live in the western, northern area of the state which is rather hilly. I also do some longer distance towing in the warmer summer months including trips to western PA up and down some rather "wicked" grades.
(As a side note, one of the grades is 3 miles long and restricted my previous Sub to about 35 mph with the accelerator floored with a 7.4L engine dragging a full trailer load. The same trailer load on the DXL this past summer allowed me to climb the same grade at about 45mph, floored. This is a grade that's never alot of fun going up or down, but unfortunately there is no other reasonable path to Lake Raystown, the largest lake "in" PA (other than Erie).
714cut: just for the record I bought the extended warranty on the DXL (I think it was about $1000 for a 6/75K extension). I felt that with the all new AWD system, new transmission, rear disk brakes and alot more electronics on a brand new model year (and taking into consideration GM's less than stellar historical quality record), an extended warranty seemed a good investment.
To date, I have had no warranty repair (19K miles), however I think I would have bought an extended warranty for any new SUV I was shopping for. Just seems a reasonable investment given the costs of repairs today.
Hi all. I just replaced the front pads on our '01 Seq at 21K miles. My wife (her vehicle) said that the brakes were making a funny noise and sure enough the brake pads were on their wear "squealer" tabs with 1/16" pad remaining. I checked the rears first which I eyeballed at 5/16" or more so they have a ways to go.
The only issue with the Seq brakes or any other vehicle for that matter is if you ignore the indications that your pads are are becoming too thin. If the pad loses all it material and you end up putting the "bare" brake pad against the rotor - then you're going to have to replace the rotor which likely is approx $100.
Previously on this forum, several of you chimed in with the first signs of wearing pads - a brake light indicator which won't go away until you add fluid to the master cylinder. Now, once you've done this once, be on the look out for additional signs - namely the sound of these (intentionally) annoying squeal tabs on the pads themselves. The low fluid is perfectly normal on any car as the pads wear. As the pads are becoming thinner, more brake fluid is needed in the brake lines to make up the difference. In my experience with three previous Land Cruisers and now the Seq, you usually get this low fluid light when your pads are approx half worn - but the variance in this is likely too great for you to make any reliable assumptions.
I started this post to encourage you all to consider changing out your own pads instead of having the dealer do it. It is very, very simple - the hardest part is jacking up the car and removing the wheel!
Once the wheel is off, the quick overview is as follows; 1. Remove the safety wire holding the two 4" pins that hold the pads in. 2. Remove the two pins while watching the orientation of this unique pad tensioning spring. (I haven't seen this thing before but I suppose it has something to do with preventing bake squeal.) 3. Once the pins are out, just slide the pad on one side of the rotor out. 4. Transfer the stainless steel squeal shims from the old pad to the new pad and use anti-squeal compound (local parts store or Toyota) in between. 5. Using two large screwdrivers, rock the two brake pistons back into their most recessed position. 6. Slide the new pad in. 7. Repeat steps 3-6 for the second pad on the same side. 8. Put the bottom pin in 9. Put the top pin in through that weird wire spring described in step two. (This is really a lot easier than it sounds.) 10.Replace the wire keeper that holds the two pins in. 11. You're done on one side - total time after wheel removal about 10 minutes or less (really).
Before doing the second side, I would recommend to check the fluid in the master cylinder. Having pushed the pistons back to make room for the greater pad thickness, you may now have too much fluid in the resovoir. (That fluid you added is no longer needed!) If the fluid gets above the "max" line, you need to suck some out using a syringe (my preference) or some other creative method.
Anyway, just wanted to let all of you know that each time I do the brakes, I am just amazed on how easy it is and how much money you can save.
Be careful, and have a trained mechanic assist you if you have any doubts. Honestly, I did the one side last Friday while showing my 11 year old son. He did the other side under my supervision and the only thing I helped him with is getting the wheel off! Hope this brief explanation helps one or more of you.
I just got a new Sequoia, it rides great and has plenty of power. But I do hear a lot of clicks and bangs under the stearing wheel. Is this normal or does it need to be broken in for a few 1000 miles?
Also does anyone have the video player in the back seat for the little ones. Is it worth spending the money?
nota4re: Thanks for the info. Changing disc pads is indeed a do-it-yourself deal. RE: your wife going thru pads at 20K.....boggles my mind. No disrespect intended but has she mistaken the brake pedal for the accelerator ? As previously mentioned, I'm in hilly Seattle and have used 10% of my front pads at 10k miles. That puts me on a pace to need pads at 100K ! (wouldn't really expect that). I believe driving habits have a far more signigicant impact on brake wear than terrain.
On extended warranties: Remember, like all insurance, if it wasn't profitable for the provider, it wouldn't exist. There's your answer. These deals were not created to benefit the consumer, though some individuals will......insurance companies chart this stuff...and know precisely how profitable it is.
nota4re. wow good description, thank you! I printed it out and will be using the next time. What about "turning" the rotors? Do you do that every other brake change? Someone at work here mentioned something about repacking the wheel bearings when you do a brake job!
A new car is supposed to be in perfect working condition without any extraneous noise. Anybody telling you it will work itself out in xx miles is blowing smoke.
Take it back and have it fixed ASAP. Steering wheel.
I'm in south central PA. We probably get as much snow as you do. I bought a 4WD Sequoia because its 4WD system can be used in any weather. I was most concerned with rainy weather. That's not to say that snow isn't a concern.
The Active Trac system sends power to the front and rear wheels in a 50/50 split under normal conditions. This is a real plus in any driving situation. It also has a low range and locking center diff for when the going gets tough.
My 96 K1500 pickup was notorious for spinning the rear wheels in the rain when pulling out from a stop or yield sign into traffic. With the Sequoia, I can put it in 4WD at the first sign of rain and not worry about loss of traction in the same conditions.
It's your call, but I won't own any rear wheel drive only vehicles in the near future.
Regarding my wife's driving habits, I do not think it is excessive for the Seq to go through front pads at 20K. She drives city streets a lot with frequent stop and go's. We also occasionally tow our boat 4500lbs (with surge brakes) or a small utility trailer with a couple of quads - about 1800lbs with no brakes.
Regarding some of the other feedback to my post:
In my opinion it is not at all necessary to resurface the rotors with every pad replacement. You should feel the surface for any irregularities but assuming that you get to the pad replacement before the metal backing strikes the rotor you should be OK. However, another potential concern is if the brakes are already making a lot of noise (other than the wear indicators.) One cause of this is that the rotors become glazed. In this scenario I would recommend to use a high grit number emory paper to "scrub" the rotors. Again, it is my opinion that in most "normal" cases neither of these steps would be necessary. In the event that you want or have to get the rotors turned, it is very easy (two bolts) to remove the entire brake caliper which facilitates the removal of the rotor itself. Many larger auto parts stores will do the turning at a very modest cost. (TRAK Auto used to charge $5 per rotor and they would waive this charge if you bought the pads from them.)
The notion of repacking wheel bearings at brake pad replacement time is left over from the 70's. In modern (90's) vehicles this is really unnecessary unless specifically required by mileage intervals described in the Owners/Maintenance manual. BUT... in some vehicles including the Land Cruiser - it is necessary to undo the wheel bearings to get the darn rotor off. So, if you're going to resurface the rotor at pad replacement time you really have no alternative but to re-pack the wheel bearings when you re-install the rotor. In my experience, most vehicle designs are such that the rotor can be be removed without effecting the wheel bearing.
I made arrangements to take my Sequoia in and have a hood insulating pad custom made at local upholstering shop. I will let you know how it looks and works out in a couple of weeks. (I will also have one made for my 96 4-Runner to reduce the SC whine if this one is satisfactory)
Finally bought an SR5 4X4 at the end of Mar. in central OH. Dealers in the Columbus metro area were not dealing at all. Quotes ranged from $1900-2900 over invoice. 20-30 mis. outside Columbus dealers loosened up a bit with quotes ranging $1300-1400 over invoice. I also tried a method detailed on the Motley Fool of sending faxes to dealers requesting bids. I received no responses. I finally got a quote through Carsdirect.com of $955 over invoice. Figuring in the holdback I calculted the dealer profit at approx. $1600 compared to the $2600-3600 profit that dealers in the Columbus area would make if I bought the cars they were selling. The only drawback was the Toyota dealer that CarsDirect uses for this region is located in Cincinnati and I had to drive there to test the car. Once we got all the paperwork settled, they had a courier deliver the car to my home and the waived the delivery charge. I also checked out AutoBytel.com and found them to offer no advantage. They sent my request to a local dealer who gave me one of the highest quotes I received. If you're in the market for a Sequoia, I'd check out CarDirect.com, they had the dealers in my area beat by $1K or more. Good Luck, hope this helps.
does anyone know any good brand of leather protections? my friend put after market leather on his new camry, the guy gave him some shampoo for protection, he rubbed it on after he got home and left some spots on his leather that's why i'm a little concerned.
Do you perhaps know if carsdirect or any dealer would charge more than $995 over invoice for a Limited 4WD? $995 is a very good deal in my opinion. In Northern California, the best deal I got (from fleet managers over the phone) was $1800 over invoice for a loaded Limited 4WD.
Not sure what they would charge for that vehicle. Best thing to do is visit their website & request a quote. They give you 2 options. The first one which I chose, was to work with a local dealer. You're under no obligation and there are no additional fees asociated with this. Apparently they have a network of dealers that they work with. The one that they referred my request to was in Cincinnati, approx 100 mis. from where I live. As it worked out, it was worth a couple hours drive time for me to save the $ that I did. The second option (which I didn't chose) was to work directly with CarsDirect.com. This option requires you to give them a credit card number which I was a little uncomfortable with doing. The second option supposedly "guarantees" that you will get the lowest price possible. The dealer that I was referred to told me that the reason they ask you for a credit card on the second option is that they will charge you a finders fee if you end up buying the car.
I have been using Lexol conditioner to condition and soften, and saddle soap to clean for years. This combination will keep your leather looking and feeling like new.
I'm the only lucky one who has seen the TRD Sequoia. If anyone gets a chance, see if you can find some info on the TRD package. So far I can't find anything, but I saw it on the lot that's for sure!
I just got my 2002 4WD Limited and have really enjoyed it. I had to order to get exactly what I wanted, but got a good deal (about $1500 over invoice) and delivery was great.
Two questions though. The JBL Premium Sound System does not sound great (it kind of booms or sound muffled and "bass heavy").I think I remember seeing some previous posts about this being a common problem and that there is actually a solution in the form of some after market cross-over of something. I will take it back to the dealer, but I would like some suggestions on other's experiences with this.
Also, where can I find a Sequoia accessories catalog? It does not seem to exist in hardcopy according to my dealer and the Toyota website just refers to vague accessories like "towing accessories, mats, cargo covers, etc." but I can't seem to find any details on any of these. I also own a BMW and they put out a full catalog every year on accessories and I have to think that Toyota does the same, at least on a website somewhere.
Try the Performance Products web site; they have a catalogue of accessories for Toyota trucks and SUV's. (ie 4-Runner, Sequoia, RAV4, Highlander, Land Cruiser, Tacoma & Tundra) I also purchased excellent quality mats and a cargo liner that covers to the 2nd row of seats and accomodates the 3rd row on top of it from McNeil Automotive. (Marcor in Canada) I am also planning to purchase a sunroof wind deflector and doorsill protectors (probably from the Toyotaguys web site). It also has articles like a TRD exhaust system listed there.
Toyotaguys worked for me as well. Bought rubber mats and door sill protectors. Very quick delivery and better prices than dealership (duh). I too would love a solution to the sound system concerns others have shared (other than replacing the JBL).
Your comments about the hemi not going in smaller vehicles may be dead wrong. Latest "Truck Trend" states the 5.7 hemi may make an appearance in Grand Cherokee or Durango next year.
My 40,000 dollar truck has the ticking problem that I have seen in previous posts. Went to Team Toyota in Lithia Springs,Georgia one month ago to have it repaired. They looked over the truck and found nothing wrong. Return two weeks later with the same problem, they said it would take longer to fix and I need to schedule an appointment, I made it for today April 22. They had the truck for one hour and the diagnosis: Nothing wrong. "They said sometimes oil does not reach the top of the motor where the steel buckets are that run over the cams. This happens mostly when the truck is cold". I am not a mechanic, but I did stay in a Holiday Inn Express once, and metal against metal without oil on moving parts is not conducive to long engine life. The service manger said this is very common with the Sequoia and that his wife's does the same thing and there is no solution for this problem. Meaning I would just have to live with the noise. Spending 40,000 on an automobile should mean that the problem will be taken care of. By the way the people at the Southeastern Regional offices had never heard of a ticking Sequoia. I told them to read Edmunds.com.
You know, Low_ball_88, Limited models are very scarce right now, from what we're seeing here and reading inventories to find. Especially the 4WD ones. The guys at priceline are good at finding the proverbial needle in the haystack at times, and a few of the other online lead services can search out the Northern CA and Southern Ca areas as well. Right here on Edmunds, there is a "dealer locator" attached to an Auto-Vantage icon I have found. Helps with a good idea of pricing in your state.
Regarding the lack of oil to the bucket tappets in your SEQ, you may want to clarify with your Toyota dealer:
1). Is the lack of oil at the interface between the bucket and the cam, or
2). Is the lack of oil to the hydraulic portion of the bucket.
If it's #2, I wrote an explanation about the Yukon cold start noise in the Denali forum (hydraulic lifters). The same principle could be applied to hydraulic bucket tappets.
yup I have hydrolic lifters in my subie and I too get cold-start noisy lifters til they get pumped up. Quite common in the Flat-engine config of the subies. Also heard that lighter weight oils can cause this to be more pronounced as well.
Is it just me or does Toyota have a real shortage of Sequoias? Lots of posts here and my dealer here in Canada says they're hard to get (currently has none).
I also experienced the booming sound when trying to increase the bass level to 1 or 2. Suggest setting the bass level to 0, mid to 2, treble to 3. This seems to give the best overall sound quality. However, if you are more of an audiophile like myself, the system lacks low end bass. Toyota attempted to achieve a full range with separate drivers in the front. The rear drivers are only good for mid and high end. I had a custom sub-woofer installed in the rear storage bin(10 inch sub), powered by a separate 200watt amp. The results was astounding with bass output equivalent to a home sub-woofer. This solution is not for everybody as it was quite expensive but worth every penny if you appreciate full range sound.
My understanding is that a ticking is electrical/fuel injectors and not to be considered a problem but a tapping is metal on metal and should be corrected ASAP.
I told the dealer that I purchased mine from in mid-October that I wished to purchase one. I was specific about the model and color and so for the next 4 to 6 weeks he tried to do a diversion from another dealer. He finally gave up and ordered me one direct from the factory the first week in December. I took delivery on March 15. During this period I saw a total of 2 units on any dealership lot that I visited. Although I did not make a point in looking at a large number of lots, most of them (including my dealership) had none. In February I was in Toronto and took in the autoshow. There I was able to talk to a representative of Toyota Canada and he told me that they were selling every Sequoia produced in North America and that they could only crank up production in the plant if they decreased the number of Tundras produced since they come off of the same production line. I was dubious about the time it was taking to get mine delivered, but he confirmed my dealer's production schedule when I asked him when should I expect delivery of a vehicle ordered in the first week in December? It seems obvious to me that these are vehicles that are very much in demand!
Obviously this has a dramatic impact on overall sales results when I can't see a Sequoia at my Toyota dealership but there are 6 Tahoe's at 0% financing at Chevy dealership! I think Toyota may have screwed up here.
I live in San Diego and there are quite a few Toyota dealers in my area. At any given time there are at least 2-8 Sequoia's on each dealer lot so it is not nearly as bad as other areas in the country.
Drive an hour up to Orange County or Los Angeles and some dealers have as many as 20-30 on the lot. These are the volume Sequoia dealers in SoCal and are willing to negotiate anywhere from $500-$800 over invoice. The best I could do in San Diego was $2,000 over invoice.
My recommendation is to contact all Toyota dealers within 150 miles via e:mail (go to www.toyota.com to get the list) asking what their best price is for exactly what you want. I sent a broadcast e:mail to all dealers at once with the same message stating I was looking for the best deal. This way the dealers know how many other dealers they are competing against. Once you get the best offer, contact that dealer and have them fax you a copy of the deal in writing listing the final sales price so there are no surprises. Good luck!
The demand for the Sequoia Limited edition in my neck of the woods ( Central NJ) doesn't seem as great as in other parts of the country. NJ is one of the most densely populated states and I have, in the last 2 years, have seen only 3 Sequoia Limited on the highway. In contrast there seems to be many, many Jeep Grand Cherokees all over the place. What this means? I haven't a clue.
Thanks for the tip on "Performance Products". Do you know their website address? My "google" search turns up 100's of alternatives. Also, if anyone else has good ideas on how to deal with the below average stereo in my above average car, I'm all ears.
I also continue to be surprised by Toyota's lack of an accessory catalog.
the address is www.performanceproducts.com ; you can request a current catalogue from that web site which usually takes 10 to 14 days to deliver.
Has anyone had any problems with the security system?? Twice now I have been unable to start my vehicle after sitting in my driveway overnight. I think (know) that the problem has to do with the ignition not recognizing my keys and although the engine turns over it will not fire up. The first time it was remedied by inserting my key in the door lock instead of using the keyless entry system. This must have re-coded the key. This morning, however, it would not work but when I came home at lunchtime it fired up right away. Are there gremlins in my giant green tree??? ( I would hate to be stranded out in the boonies somewhere when this happened. My dealership is at a loss and they are going to do some research before they have my bring the vehicle in). Has this happened to anyone else???
Where are you seeing a supply of 2-8? Poway & Kearny Mesa have been carrying 0-2.
I bought this past Oct. for $1500 over invoice. The dealer sold two at that point --- mine and another over a 4-day period. On several follow-up visits, they've had zero inventory.
First, I have to say that it was refreshing to see that there is a place where I can come and read about Sequoia's - this is the first time I've run across this and it's great to see everyone pitching in and keeping everyone informed. Ok, so here's my story:
The last 4 vehicles I've owned have been Dodge Grand Caravans - and at the time, thought I had the best vehicle made (for me) I have always bought the extended warranties and always been glad I did - they cost around $1600 and every Caravan I owned ALWAYS had problems that would have cost 2-3 times the cost of the extended warranty (transmissions disintegrating, major engine problems, etc) - I went back to Dodge to buy the "next" Caravan, and the treatment I got from the salesman was absolutely terrible - I wasn't giving him my "full cooperation" and doing exactly what he wanted, so he started having a temper tantrum that was really ridiculous. I finally called the Sales Manager in and found that he was worse than the salesman - so I started looking at other makes (that will be the LAST Dodge I EVER buy!!!) - The Subaru Outback was nice, but too small - the Montana was in the running along with a Sienna...
Even tho it is just my wife and myself (no kids) we seem to be forever taking friends, relatives, etc with us, so seating for 8 was something that would be nice - the salesman at Toyota was very helpful and (strangely) was not pushing me into anything...
I was getting close to buying a Sienna, when I mentioned that 8 seats would be nice. He said, "well, you might want to take a look at the new SUV we've got this year" so we took a look. It was a 4X4 Limited with a price tag that was WAY over what I was wanting to pay. THANK YOU!!!
Well, we went back to the Sienna and I was ready to deal. My wife (a VERY good accountant who knows her way around financing) and I came back the next day and took a look at the Sienna - she asked me, "are you sure this is what you want?" and I replied, "well, there was this real nice Sequoia, but the price tag gave me a nose bleed"
Our salesman laughed and said, "Oh, don't worry about that one, it sold last night, but we have a different model that isn't quite as expensive"
Well, this one was quite a bit different - a 2WD 2WD SR5 with a moonroof and a price that was higher than we'd been thinking about, but....
So, in August we bought it. The first thing I noticed was that this didn't drive anything like any truck I'd ever driven (the combination of the SUV and Toyota vs Dodge) and the comfort were by FAR superior to what I was used to.
Price was $1200 over invoice and this was at Toyota of the Desert - near Palm Springs, CA The total cost with 0 ded extended warranty, the interior upholstery coverage (covers everything but motor oil on the interior - I am VERY prone to spilling things) along with tax, was about $39,700 out the door.
The Sequoia I bought was the only one on the lot when I bought it (and there were two other people trying to buy it at the time...) - they normally have 1-2 Sequoia's on the lot at a time and they Never last more than 2 days MAX.
The only things I have had "problems with are:
1) The clock is mounted too low to be visible - hope they correct this next year if they haven't already.
2) In the 8 months I have had it, the keyless entry has activated the horn probably 10-15 times and I have made SURE it wasn't me accidentally hitting the panic button
3) The "premium" stereo on a scale of 1 to 10 is about a "6"
4) There are occasions when I use the brakes, that I hear what sounds like "springs" making sounds - like they are being flexed and twisted???
5) Sometimes when I have to "get on" the brakes, it sometimes seems like the front brakes are "grabbing" (vibration - not severe, but present)
6) The mileage computer doesn't seem to match my manual calculation of MPG - the computer usually shows 2-3 MPG more than my calculation
7) When I go to turn on/off the radio, I usually end up hitting the A/C temperature control instead (anyone else do this???)
8) Interior lighting never seems to be bright enough...
9) When I get in and have to unlock the passenger door at night - it's hard to find the door lock button (would be nice to have this lit up - my wife standing out in the rain while I try to find the damn button is not cool...)
These are all minor problems, and I wouldn't give up the Sequoia for anything else.
I am coming up on 15,000 and am curious to see what the brakes will show
I have not visited the Poway dealer but everytime I have been by the Kearny Mesa dealer (4-5 times) there are at least two on the lot. They have a back lot as well so they are not always sitting up front. Escondido and Carlsbad always seem to have anywhere from 2-8 on the lot as well. 2-8 is not many which is why the SD dealers don't discount as much as Carson (and others) in LA.
Instgtr -- It is good to hear your list of complaints. If only my last car had this type of list. I am having the same problems with the keyless entry and the horn. I can count on it going off every 15-20 times I deactivate the system. I have not noticed any of your other problems except the computer being off by 2-3 mpg. When I purchased my seq here in CA I found that most deliveries to northern Ca were 4 wheel drive while most deliveries to Southern CA were 2 wheel drive. I got mine by trading with an dealer in LA. So far my biggest concern is the engine tapping noise when it is cold. I will complain to the dealer before the warrenty is up but reading the posts here I am not sure if it is a major or minor problem?
Absoutly the best car I ever drove, bought, or borrowed.
Instgtr, Could the vibration you felt when braking hard be the ABS kicking in? The pedal vibration and noise is normal, and apparently occurs with ABS systems in all makes/models.
You can also unlock all doors with the key, by turning it to the right (clockwise) twice in rapid succession. The computer also can be reprogrammed to lock or unlock ALL doors with single pushes of the appropriate button on the fob.
trdsctwo: When I had new keys cut, I tried starting the ignition BEFORE having my dealer program them (just wanted to see what happened). My recollection is that the engine wouldn't even turn over with an unprogrammed key...
As for my issues... I don't care for LCD displays on the radio/audio... they are hard to read with polarized sun glasses on.
I don't like the LCD digital odometer that requires a key in the ignition and accessories on to read... means I have to re- insert the key before I can write in my gas/mileage log when I refuel (I always forget to write it down before turning the car off).
On the other hand, after ~11,500 miles, I love my truck. This past week, it carried/pulled me, my three fishing buddies, all our gear, a 17' drift boat, AND 14' river raft up a damp 14% dirt grade for 5 miles without complaint or loss of traction... at different times, I've hauled 1000 lbs of sand (bagged) for the kids daycare, a cubic yard of mulch and manure for the wife's garden (again, bagged and handled VERY carefully so as not to puncture the bags), and 6 kids (all in car seats) and two adults on a trip to the zoo.
Just out of curiosity (I get weird numbers from KBB.com), what would be the resale value of a 2WD/Limited/White/all possible options with 7K miles (1 year old) be? It also has a 100K mile extended warranty? BTW I live in San Jose, CA
Are sequoias still selling like hot cakes in San Jose or in CA? Thanks
Comments
when i bought my 98 corolla i spent $1000 for the extended warrenty, i think it's totally waste of money. within the period i just don't what to wish, should i wish that problem will emerge to justify the $1000 warrnty or should i hope the vehicle will go smoothly. so i came up with the conclusion, may be when i buy my next car i should worry about the expenses later and skip the extended thing. i told myself even if it will cost me $2000 for repair a few year later, (which is very unlikely) i'm only paying $1000 more, and it's in the future, (not counting the interest i save on putting $1000 more on down payment if i skip the extended warrenty) but if i bought the extended warrtenty, i will surely loose those money now no matter what is gonna happen...
when i bought my sequoia i think i paid $1000 more than the good deal (i paid $2000 off MSRP) but when i know people putting their money on extended warrenty, i told myself i'm getting just the same deal
The state is generally flat, however I live in the western, northern area of the state which is rather hilly. I also do some longer distance towing in the warmer summer months including trips to western PA up and down some rather "wicked" grades.
(As a side note, one of the grades is 3 miles long and restricted my previous Sub to about 35 mph with the accelerator floored with a 7.4L engine dragging a full trailer load. The same trailer load on the DXL this past summer allowed me to climb the same grade at about 45mph, floored. This is a grade that's never alot of fun going up or down, but unfortunately there is no other reasonable path to Lake Raystown, the largest lake "in" PA (other than Erie).
714cut: just for the record I bought the extended warranty on the DXL (I think it was about $1000 for a 6/75K extension). I felt that with the all new AWD system, new transmission, rear disk brakes and alot more electronics on a brand new model year (and taking into consideration GM's less than stellar historical quality record), an extended warranty seemed a good investment.
To date, I have had no warranty repair (19K miles), however I think I would have bought an extended warranty for any new SUV I was shopping for. Just seems a reasonable investment given the costs of repairs today.
The only issue with the Seq brakes or any other vehicle for that matter is if you ignore the indications that your pads are are becoming too thin. If the pad loses all it material and you end up putting the "bare" brake pad against the rotor - then you're going to have to replace the rotor which likely is approx $100.
Previously on this forum, several of you chimed in with the first signs of wearing pads - a brake light indicator which won't go away until you add fluid to the master cylinder. Now, once you've done this once, be on the look out for additional signs - namely the sound of these (intentionally) annoying squeal tabs on the pads themselves. The low fluid is perfectly normal on any car as the pads wear. As the pads are becoming thinner, more brake fluid is needed in the brake lines to make up the difference. In my experience with three previous Land Cruisers and now the Seq, you usually get this low fluid light when your pads are approx half worn - but the variance in this is likely too great for you to make any reliable assumptions.
I started this post to encourage you all to consider changing out your own pads instead of having the dealer do it. It is very, very simple - the hardest part is jacking up the car and removing the wheel!
Once the wheel is off, the quick overview is as follows;
1. Remove the safety wire holding the two 4" pins that hold the pads in.
2. Remove the two pins while watching the orientation of this unique pad tensioning spring. (I haven't seen this thing before but I suppose it has something to do with preventing bake squeal.)
3. Once the pins are out, just slide the pad on one side of the rotor out.
4. Transfer the stainless steel squeal shims from the old pad to the new pad and use anti-squeal compound (local parts store or Toyota) in between.
5. Using two large screwdrivers, rock the two brake pistons back into their most recessed position.
6. Slide the new pad in.
7. Repeat steps 3-6 for the second pad on the same side.
8. Put the bottom pin in
9. Put the top pin in through that weird wire spring described in step two. (This is really a lot easier than it sounds.)
10.Replace the wire keeper that holds the two pins in.
11. You're done on one side - total time after wheel removal about 10 minutes or less (really).
Before doing the second side, I would recommend to check the fluid in the master cylinder. Having pushed the pistons back to make room for the greater pad thickness, you may now have too much fluid in the resovoir. (That fluid you added is no longer needed!) If the fluid gets above the "max" line, you need to suck some out using a syringe (my preference) or some other creative method.
Anyway, just wanted to let all of you know that each time I do the brakes, I am just amazed on how easy it is and how much money you can save.
Be careful, and have a trained mechanic assist you if you have any doubts. Honestly, I did the one side last Friday while showing my 11 year old son. He did the other side under my supervision and the only thing I helped him with is getting the wheel off! Hope this brief explanation helps one or more of you.
I just got a new Sequoia, it rides great and has plenty of power. But I do hear a lot of clicks and bangs under the stearing wheel. Is this normal or does it need to be broken in for a few 1000 miles?
Also does anyone have the video player in the back seat for the little ones. Is it worth spending the money?
Thanks for any help with these questions.
On extended warranties: Remember, like all insurance, if it wasn't profitable for the provider, it wouldn't exist. There's your answer. These deals were not created to benefit the consumer, though some individuals will......insurance companies chart this stuff...and know precisely how profitable it is.
Take it back and have it fixed ASAP. Steering wheel.
The Active Trac system sends power to the front and rear wheels in a 50/50 split under normal conditions. This is a real plus in any driving situation. It also has a low range and locking center diff for when the going gets tough.
My 96 K1500 pickup was notorious for spinning the rear wheels in the rain when pulling out from a stop or yield sign into traffic. With the Sequoia, I can put it in 4WD at the first sign of rain and not worry about loss of traction in the same conditions.
It's your call, but I won't own any rear wheel drive only vehicles in the near future.
Regarding my wife's driving habits, I do not think it is excessive for the Seq to go through front pads at 20K. She drives city streets a lot with frequent stop and go's. We also occasionally tow our boat 4500lbs (with surge brakes) or a small utility trailer with a couple of quads - about 1800lbs with no brakes.
Regarding some of the other feedback to my post:
In my opinion it is not at all necessary to resurface the rotors with every pad replacement. You should feel the surface for any irregularities but assuming that you get to the pad replacement before the metal backing strikes the rotor you should be OK. However, another potential concern is if the brakes are already making a lot of noise (other than the wear indicators.) One cause of this is that the rotors become glazed. In this scenario I would recommend to use a high grit number emory paper to "scrub" the rotors. Again, it is my opinion that in most "normal" cases neither of these steps would be necessary. In the event that you want or have to get the rotors turned, it is very easy (two bolts) to remove the entire brake caliper which facilitates the removal of the rotor itself. Many larger auto parts stores will do the turning at a very modest cost. (TRAK Auto used to charge $5 per rotor and they would waive this charge if you bought the pads from them.)
The notion of repacking wheel bearings at brake pad replacement time is left over from the 70's. In modern (90's) vehicles this is really unnecessary unless specifically required by mileage intervals described in the Owners/Maintenance manual. BUT... in some vehicles including the Land Cruiser - it is necessary to undo the wheel bearings to get the darn rotor off. So, if you're going to resurface the rotor at pad replacement time you really have no alternative but to re-pack the wheel bearings when you re-install the rotor. In my experience, most vehicle designs are such that the rotor can be be removed without effecting the wheel bearing.
shop. I will let you know how it looks and works out in a couple of weeks. (I will also have one made for my
96 4-Runner to reduce the SC whine if this one is satisfactory)
Good Luck, hope this helps.
Thanks in advance.
Two questions though. The JBL Premium Sound System does not sound great (it kind of booms or sound muffled and "bass heavy").I think I remember seeing some previous posts about this being a common problem and that there is actually a solution in the form of some after market cross-over of something. I will take it back to the dealer, but I would like some suggestions on other's experiences with this.
Also, where can I find a Sequoia accessories catalog? It does not seem to exist in hardcopy according to my dealer and the Toyota website just refers to vague accessories like "towing accessories, mats, cargo covers, etc." but I can't seem to find any details on any of these. I also own a BMW and they put out a full catalog every year on accessories and I have to think that Toyota does the same, at least on a website somewhere.
trucks and SUV's. (ie 4-Runner, Sequoia, RAV4, Highlander, Land Cruiser, Tacoma &
Tundra) I also purchased excellent quality mats and a cargo liner that covers to the
2nd row of seats and accomodates the 3rd row on top of it from McNeil Automotive.
(Marcor in Canada) I am also planning to purchase a sunroof wind deflector and doorsill
protectors (probably from the Toyotaguys web site). It also has articles like a TRD
exhaust system listed there.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1822301964
Looks like an awesome car to me. Hope this helps.
AS
1). Is the lack of oil at the interface between the bucket and the cam, or
2). Is the lack of oil to the hydraulic portion of the bucket.
If it's #2, I wrote an explanation about the Yukon cold start noise in the Denali forum (hydraulic lifters). The same principle could be applied to hydraulic bucket tappets.
-mike
specific about the model and color and so for the next 4 to 6 weeks he tried to do a diversion
from another dealer. He finally gave up and ordered me one direct from the factory the first
week in December. I took delivery on March 15. During this period I saw a total of 2 units on
any dealership lot that I visited. Although I did not make a point in looking at a large number
of lots, most of them (including my dealership) had none. In February I was in Toronto and
took in the autoshow. There I was able to talk to a representative of Toyota Canada and he
told me that they were selling every Sequoia produced in North America and that they could
only crank up production in the plant if they decreased the number of Tundras produced since
they come off of the same production line. I was dubious about the time it was taking to get
mine delivered, but he confirmed my dealer's production schedule when I asked him when should I expect delivery of a vehicle ordered in the first week in December? It seems obvious to
me that these are vehicles that are very much in demand!
Drive an hour up to Orange County or Los Angeles and some dealers have as many as 20-30 on the lot. These are the volume Sequoia dealers in SoCal and are willing to negotiate anywhere from $500-$800 over invoice. The best I could do in San Diego was $2,000 over invoice.
My recommendation is to contact all Toyota dealers within 150 miles via e:mail (go to www.toyota.com to get the list) asking what their best price is for exactly what you want. I sent a broadcast e:mail to all dealers at once with the same message stating I was looking for the best deal. This way the dealers know how many other dealers they are competing against. Once you get the best offer, contact that dealer and have them fax you a copy of the deal in writing listing the final sales price so there are no surprises. Good luck!
I also continue to be surprised by Toyota's lack of an accessory catalog.
web site which usually takes 10 to 14 days to deliver.
Has anyone had any problems with the security system?? Twice now I have been unable to
start my vehicle after sitting in my driveway overnight. I think (know) that the problem has
to do with the ignition not recognizing my keys and although the engine turns over it will not
fire up. The first time it was remedied by inserting my key in the door lock instead of using
the keyless entry system. This must have re-coded the key. This morning, however, it would
not work but when I came home at lunchtime it fired up right away. Are there gremlins in my
giant green tree??? ( I would hate to be stranded out in the boonies somewhere when this
happened. My dealership is at a loss and they are going to do some research before they have my bring the vehicle in). Has this happened to anyone else???
Where are you seeing a supply of 2-8? Poway & Kearny Mesa have been carrying 0-2.
I bought this past Oct. for $1500 over invoice. The dealer sold two at that point --- mine and another over a 4-day period. On several follow-up visits, they've had zero inventory.
The last 4 vehicles I've owned have been Dodge Grand Caravans - and at the time, thought I had the best vehicle made (for me) I have always bought the extended warranties and always been glad I did - they cost around $1600 and every Caravan I owned ALWAYS had problems that would have cost 2-3 times the cost of the extended warranty (transmissions disintegrating, major engine problems, etc) - I went back to Dodge to buy the "next" Caravan, and the treatment I got from the salesman was absolutely terrible - I wasn't giving him my "full cooperation" and doing exactly what he wanted, so he started having a temper tantrum that was really ridiculous. I finally called the Sales Manager in and found that he was worse than the salesman - so I started looking at other makes (that will be the LAST Dodge I EVER buy!!!) - The Subaru Outback was nice, but too small - the Montana was in the running along with a Sienna...
Even tho it is just my wife and myself (no kids) we seem to be forever taking friends, relatives, etc with us, so seating for 8 was something that would be nice - the salesman at Toyota was very helpful and (strangely) was not pushing me into anything...
I was getting close to buying a Sienna, when I mentioned that 8 seats would be nice. He said, "well, you might want to take a look at the new SUV we've got this year" so we took a look. It was a 4X4 Limited with a price tag that was WAY over what I was wanting to pay. THANK YOU!!!
Well, we went back to the Sienna and I was ready to deal. My wife (a VERY good accountant who knows her way around financing) and I came back the next day and took a look at the Sienna - she asked me, "are you sure this is what you want?" and I replied, "well, there was this real nice Sequoia, but the price tag gave me a nose bleed"
Our salesman laughed and said, "Oh, don't worry about that one, it sold last night, but we have a different model that isn't quite as expensive"
Well, this one was quite a bit different - a 2WD 2WD SR5 with a moonroof and a price that was higher than we'd been thinking about, but....
So, in August we bought it. The first thing I noticed was that this didn't drive anything like any truck I'd ever driven (the combination of the SUV and Toyota vs Dodge) and the comfort were by FAR superior to what I was used to.
Price was $1200 over invoice and this was at Toyota of the Desert - near Palm Springs, CA The total cost with 0 ded extended warranty, the interior upholstery coverage (covers everything but motor oil on the interior - I am VERY prone to spilling things) along with tax, was about $39,700 out the door.
The Sequoia I bought was the only one on the lot when I bought it (and there were two other people trying to buy it at the time...) - they normally have 1-2 Sequoia's on the lot at a time and they Never last more than 2 days MAX.
The only things I have had "problems with are:
1) The clock is mounted too low to be visible - hope they correct this next year if they haven't already.
2) In the 8 months I have had it, the keyless entry has activated the horn probably 10-15 times and I have made SURE it wasn't me accidentally hitting the panic button
3) The "premium" stereo on a scale of 1 to 10 is about a "6"
4) There are occasions when I use the brakes, that I hear what sounds like "springs" making sounds - like they are being flexed and twisted???
5) Sometimes when I have to "get on" the brakes, it sometimes seems like the front brakes are "grabbing" (vibration - not severe, but present)
6) The mileage computer doesn't seem to match my manual calculation of MPG - the computer usually shows 2-3 MPG more than my calculation
7) When I go to turn on/off the radio, I usually end up hitting the A/C temperature control instead (anyone else do this???)
8) Interior lighting never seems to be bright enough...
9) When I get in and have to unlock the passenger door at night - it's hard to find the door lock button (would be nice to have this lit up - my wife standing out in the rain while I try to find the damn button is not cool...)
These are all minor problems, and I wouldn't give up the Sequoia for anything else.
I am coming up on 15,000 and am curious to see what the brakes will show
Other than that - hope I haven't bored anyone...
Good Driving!
instgtr@dc.rr.com
Absoutly the best car I ever drove, bought, or borrowed.
You can also unlock all doors with the key, by turning it to the right (clockwise) twice in rapid succession. The computer also can be reprogrammed to lock or unlock ALL doors with single pushes of the appropriate button on the fob.
trdsctwo: When I had new keys cut, I tried starting the ignition BEFORE having my dealer program them (just wanted to see what happened). My recollection is that the engine wouldn't even turn over with an unprogrammed key...
As for my issues...
I don't care for LCD displays on the radio/audio... they are hard to read with polarized sun glasses on.
I don't like the LCD digital odometer that requires a key in the ignition and accessories on to read... means I have to re- insert the key before I can write in my gas/mileage log when I refuel (I always forget to write it down before turning the car off).
On the other hand, after ~11,500 miles, I love my truck. This past week, it carried/pulled me, my three fishing buddies, all our gear, a 17' drift boat, AND 14' river raft up a damp 14% dirt grade for 5 miles without complaint or loss of traction... at different times, I've hauled 1000 lbs of sand (bagged) for the kids daycare, a cubic yard of mulch and manure for the wife's garden (again, bagged and handled VERY carefully so as not to puncture the bags), and 6 kids (all in car seats) and two adults on a trip to the zoo.
Are sequoias still selling like hot cakes in San Jose or in CA?
Thanks
PS: I am not in the market to sell :-)