Vehicle Break-In Period

5th_corps · January 2000

When this book mentions "on occasion" - and in your references - is that for the break in period only - or thoughout the lifetime of the car? My breakin 500 miles went pretty fast as I have LONG commutes - my old Olds finally died, and I needed wheels for work - so I basically was varying speeds, but not the 45 to 65 and letting off. Is that something one should do occasionally - forever? I plan on getting the book.

wordvoyage · January 2000

These procedure are only needed during the initial breakin process to help sit rings in the cylinder walls and help build up proper compression. You will be fine,for long commutes and the varying of speeds I would say the most important thing you can do.

wsommariva · January 2000

My 2000 Jetta does the same thing....I think the temp is better controlled in today's cars due to the electric fans. I think my car has 3 speeds. My old SAAB had two electric fans.

newwestd · January 2000

My '95 Millenia 'S' (Great Miller Cycle Engine!) was:
a)Driven to my dealer from another dealership
b) Not broken in by me, as the service and sales people said "not to worry - just drive it!"

That poor car had consistent transmission problems that Mazda ws never able to fix and it gave terrible gas mileage - I seldom even made the EPA average.

My next - a '97 Lexus ES picked up brand new, was VERY carefully broken in for 1500 miles, kept at 50-55 or less despite the glares of the truckers on the freeway. After break-in it gave me a steady 24-25 mpg overall, even hitting 30.2 mpg on the long road to Las Vegas! The engine was so quiet you couldn't hear or feel it idling.

Coincidence or Break-In? - you be the judge.

It seems like cheap insurance to me.

chikoo · January 2000

my owners manual for 99 protege es says:

first oil change : 7500 miles
2nd oil change : 15000 miles
....and so on (intervals of 7500 miles).

Is this correct or should I go by the dealer who recommends oil change every 3000 miles?

tauberj · January 2000

Chikoo, in an ideal situation, you could go 7500 miles. But since we drive in the real world, every 3000 is more reasonable. I just broke in a new 2000 Olds Silhouette for my wife. I had the first oil change done at 1000 miles. I usually do this with my vehicles as I tend to keep them a long time. Every 3000 miles after that is reasonable. If you use synthetic oil, you can go 5000-7500 miles, which is what I do in my other vehicle. Changing the oil every 3 months or 3000 miles is one of the best things you can do to properly maintain your vehicle. Good luck.

newwestd · January 2000

I feel that the manufacturer's recommendations are designed to be a compromise between what is really good for the car and what is the least hassle they can cause the owner and not cause damage.

So - while 7500 is "OK", 3K is better, especially if it is short haul driving.

rascal8 · February 2000

A post I wrote on another board re. synthetic oil and drain intervals:

I've been "preaching" the benefits of synthetic oil products for about 10 years and usually it falls on "deaf ears" so to speak. Usually the mechanics say it does not matter that much because they have never used it or done any research on the products. Mechanics are NOT automotive engineers and are generally creatures of habit (i.e. they will use whatever they have always been using, and the general public is pretty much the same for that matter). What is very difficult for the synthetic oil companies (Amsoil, Red Line, etc) is educating consumers regarding the merits of using the stuff, getting them over the cost per quart, and convincing them extended drain intervals are OK. Not many people realize that synthetic oil does NOT chemically "break down" inside the engine environment. As long as you keep the oil clean you can run the same oil fill for 100,000 miles or more. Yes there are synth users that do this successfully and pay MUCH LESS for engine oil in the long term and protect their engine better. Keeping the oil clean is another story - there are ways to do it, primarily with a bypass filter. Anyway, I could go on but I think the biggest benefit and something you "northerners" can benefit from is cold start protection. It has been proven that synthetic is much better at protecting an engine from the perils of "cold start". When I cold start my car in the morning (18 degrees this morning) I have much more confidence my oil is protecting my engine. However, all this is moot if you have the habit of trading or selling you car frequently - then who cares about long-term engine protection anyway.

dcm3 · February 2000

i have 1700 miles on my 2000 honda civic ex coupe. i put the car through a careful break-in period of varied speeds at moderate to low rpms, always letting the engine idle for about one minute before driving. 5 speed by the way. (live in southern az where it doesn't get too cold. I'd idle longer if the weather got cold.) i live within walking distance of where i work, and rather enjoy walking to and from my job - along the way, i'm able to stop and do just about every errand i have to do. SO... i drive about once or twice a day every two or three days a week. it's either for a quick trip or to go on a drive, and open up the car's limits on a windy stretch of desert highway. i'm lucky to be able to "take my car out" for a drive, so to speak...at least it feels that way. and i want it to stay that way. any special car care tips for infrequnet use? well not infrequent, but not as frequnet as driving to work and back, errands and back, etc... any dangers to avoid?

celiane · February 2000

After reading a few posts regarding the right time to do the first oil change,I might have drained the Break-In Oil too soon? The greenish oil that came from my Ford E-150 Van,was replaced with Mobil-1 oil at 400 miles. The van was not driven for two months prior,so I went ahead. What to think about the Break-In, rings and all that stuff? No harm done?
I may only have a thousand miles, when this Summer I'll be off for long cross country driving. Can I cruise normally, or do the variable speed thing?

rascal8 · February 2000

Sounds like you have a good car you want to keep a long time. I would rather let my car sit than drive it two miles to work since the worst thing to do to a car is start it cold ! The key is to minimize cold starts. The book referenced earlier in some of these posts by Robert Sikorski details what happens to an engine during cold start. It is estimated that a cold start is equivalent to running the engine 500 highway miles !! I usually recommend a quality synthetic oil as a defense against cold start wear.
If you're not familiar with this book it is "Drive It Forever" by Robert Sikorski. It contains practical info. regarding how to make your car last - a lot of things people don't think about.

bowhuntwi · February 2000

I have on order a 00 F250 CrewCab 4x4 Super Duty, My question is should I run Synthetic oil in it. I live in Wisc. I always change my oil at 3000 or 3 months which ever comes first. I have no experience with Sythetic oil, I plan on keeping this vehicle for a long time, any opinions are appreciated, Thanks in advance.

rascal8 · February 2000

Definitely synthetic in such a cold climate - I grew up southeastern Wisconsin so I know it can get very cold. But, if you change synthetic every 3,000 miles it's going to get expensive (Amsoil synthetic runs about $5.00 per quart), so it really requires you to change your mindset. I use Amsoil synthetic and change it every 5,000 miles with a filter change every 2,500 miles, and this is probably overdoing it. Amsoil warranties their oil to 25,000 miles and is a proponent of "extended oil drain intervals". If you read my prior post I mention that synthetic oil does NOT chemically break down inside the engine environment, the issue is keeping the oil clean. Amsoil has a "bypass" oil filtration system that a lot of customers with larger vehicles such as yours will use (my car's engine bay is too small). This system allows you to keep the same oil in for an extended period by "analytically" cleaning the oil. There are trucks on the road that have over 100,000 miles on their engines with the same oil change, and when they break the engines down the wear rate is extremely low ! You can find more info at the Amsoil web site www.Amsoil.com. Mobile 1 full synthetic is also an excellent choice.
If you need any further info. let me know.

dhuet2000 · February 2000

My dealer told me when I bought the car to NOT CHANGE THE OIL in the new car until the recommended mileage (7,500 for regular driving, 3,500 for "stress" driving). This is because honda puts in a special additive in the oil from factory. This additive is the equivalent to Slick-50. I am not an engine expert but if Honda says this is what to do, then this is what you should do. DON NOT CHANGE THE OIL FOR THE FIRST TIME UNTIL THE MANUFACTURER's RECOMMENDED MILEAGE.
After the first change you can change as much as you want. I would point out that I changed my oil every 5000 miles in an 83 Honda Civic and drove it for 12 years and 275,000+ miles without any engine problems.

art49 · February 2000

I took delivery on a 2000 EX back in December, and my dealer told me the same thing, and was very emphatic about it. I plan to change at 6,000 miles - they agreed - and then every 3,000 miles thereafter.
This is my fourth Honda. First one was an 81 Civic - gave it away @ 175,000 mi., but the engine was still great. Next was an 86 Accord - gave it away last fall after 215,000 miles. Currently have a 95 Odyssey w/ 81,000 miles and the new Accord. My mechanic says the key is the oil changes. Never tried synthetics - just stick with Valvoline 5W-30W.

redlucy · February 2000

Help! I just bought a beautiful brand new 2000 Camry LE V6 with 5-speed manual transmission which I intend to "baby" and keep a long time. Current mileage is 400. Well, I "let" my husband drive it this past weekend after warning him not to exceed 50-55 mph since it's still in the "break-in" phase. He "pooh-poohed" my warning, saying that with today's technology, vehicle break-in periods are no longer necessary, and then proceeded to take my beloved little car on the highway and drive it for 15 minutes at 75 mph, even as I protested. Upon checking my owner's manual which does indeed recommend not exceeding 55 mph for the first 1000 miles, I am now worried that my little V6 has been damaged and that I'll get lousy mileage for the next 10 years!!! Am I worrying needlessly? Other than this one incident, I have not driven my Camry over the recommended 50-55 mph. Also, when should I do my first oil change? Thanks! - Red Lucy

rs_petty · February 2000

Admittedly, the guys who put together owners manuals, might know more than I do about their car. However, they do need to protect themselves from some of us "guys" who might buy a new car and immediately run 80-90 on a 1500 mile trip. I don't think any damage was done (assuming your hubby didn't wind it to redline in each gear getting to 75, like I'd do). The Toyota V6 is a stout motor - I wouldn't worry - just make sure your up to operating temperature before any more jaunts above 50. I've been taught that varying speeds can improve your break-in. On oil changes a lot of folks swear by a 1000 mile initial change and then regular changes after that. You won't go wrong with following the manual or changing more frequently.

nismoskyline · February 2000

Well, you (not me) can tell your husband he's wrong about the break-in. ALL engines need a break-in period, even the newer better-engineered ones.

As far as hurting the engine with a 15-minute jaunt at 75mpg, don't sweat it. The reason the manufacturer says to keep the speeds low at first is because they don't want you running the engine at high-RPMs for an extended period of time (that 1500-mile trip rs_petty mentioned)... at least not until the engine has been broken in.

spokane · February 2000

I agree with these guys, redlucy. Break-in should not be neglected but your engine has not been damaged. Don't rev the engine too much when it's cold, particularly during the first ~2000 miles. Your Camry has a great engine. I also concur that you should change the oil and filter at least as often as Toyota recommends.

newwestd · February 2000

Please explain to your husband that it is not only the engine. There are zillions of precision moving parts in a modern car that will benefit from breaking in - oil pump, A/C compressor, wheel bearings, transmission parts and pumps, power steering pump, alternator, and on and on.

As someone mentioned earlier, high speeds when new can cause permanent scoring and heat damage to all kinds of bearings. The effect is cumulative, and will reduce your performance, reliability and gas mileage for the life of the car.

I have tried it both ways - got terrible gas mileage with no break-in, and fantastic gas mileage with a long, careful break in with similar cars. It could be coincidence, but why take the chance?

markbuck · February 2000

is probably at the end of the service life of the engine. Possibly cost you some life in the 150,000+ miles timeframe.

Drove my last vehicle to 170,000.

Careful break in is worth it to me. But I usually run the crap outta the fully warmed up motor once I reach a little over 1000 miles up to before I make the first oil change

lmwirth · February 2000

Stevec5 and everyone -

I just purchased a 2000 VW Bug GLX (teehee!) and have thought very hard about the break-in period. I was rather nervous, but then someone suggested that VW DOES put a 10 year/100,000 mile powertrain warranty on the thing - would they suggest something that would cause damage to the engine? I wouldn't think so. The initial oil will remain in Uber Bug until the 5K miles.

Also - stevec5 - I also own an '89 Prelude Si. Didn't have the heart to trade it in (can get MUCH more for it privately). It has 125K miles on it (we bought it used almost 2yrs ago) and has had some problems recently ONLY because the original owner didn't do his job. Timing belt wasn't replaced (zero clearance engine - that was a big old OUCH!) and now we are having some CV joint/boot problems. Proper maintenance would have been great - like a timing belt change at 90K or whatever the number is. It's probably somewhat our fault that the CV situation exists (doh!). I don't know how to check for such things - I was depending on tire people/tune-up people. Guess I won't do that some more!

jbergonzi · February 2000

I just purchased a 00 Infiniti I30 and have obeyed the manual in not going over 60 mph and varying speeds. My question, I do live in a cold enviornment (Boston) and should I use synthetic oil? Secondly, it is true that one should not alternate synthetic with conventional oil? Meaning, once an auto has used synthetic oil must it always use synthetic? Thanks JB

markbuck · February 2000

Your call on the first question, you can reads tons of opinions on this. I emphasize "opinion" including my own.

I switch to synthetics when subjecting the motor to extreme (<-10F) operation. No problem switching back and forth with modern synthetics and relatively new engines.

rascal8 · February 2000

A resounding YES to synthetic usage. If you visit the Synthetic Oil thread on this board you will find some good info. I believe it is message #58 that provides a good link to an informative, and lengthy, article regarding the merits of synthetic oil. I have used Amsoil synthetic for about 10 years now with excellent results. Mobil 1 full synthetic is also an excellent choice. Agree with #127 you can switch back and forth but I don't know why you would want to (i.e. once you educate yourself re. synoil benefits you're not going to want to use dino oil). Good luck, I30 is a great car !!

jbergonzi · February 2000

First thank you both for your response and advice. I went to #58 and read this article makes alot of sense and I plan to use a synthetic. A few more questions:

1. I have heard varying opinions on using a synthetic the article states wait 6-8K miles for the engine to properly "break-in". But others have stated that the Corvette and BMW use synthetics at the factory. Your opinion?

2. If you know, do dealers usually have a synthetic option, or should I change it myself?

3. Do I use a conventional oil filter?, what do you recommend?

I appreciate your time, thank you. John

rascal8 · February 2000

1. This one is really debateable. I purchased a Toyota recently. I changed the oil at 1,000 miles, using dino oil, to get all the production byproducts out, then switched to synthetic oil at 3,000 miles. I felt at 3,000 miles my engine was sufficiently broken in. So, yes I do break in my cars with dino oil. Others, again, may have a different opinion; however, I figure it's not going to hurt to use dino for the first few thousand miles at least. You may want to call your car mfr. or someone knowledgeable at your dealer to understand how long it takes for your engine to break-in. Some models take longer than others, so I've heard.

2. I think most dealers do. Our Honda dealer will use Mobil 1 if you request. I have always changed oil myself but that's me - I get some sort of weird satisfaction with doing this stuff myself. Also, you may be able to provide the oil and have the dealer change it. Our Honda dealer will do that also and knock some cost off the oil change. Just, if you care about your car at all do NOT patronize one of these quick change oil lube places !! I think others can back me up here with personal experiences - some horrifying.

3. I am partial to Amsoil products. I think they do make the best stuff. They make a larger more heavy duty filter than anyone else, but it cost more of course. I would also recommend the filter available at your dealer.

I am not here to push Amsoil products - I do NOT sell the stuff myself, but their products are top-notch and I do believe you can order their goods directly from the company over the net or via phone. You used to have to order from a dealer and that's sort of a pain. There web site its www.amsoil.com.

markbuck · February 2000

1. Agree with rascal, one dino change at 1,000. OK to switch to synth at 3,000.

2. Once again, agree with rascal, get some perverse pleasure from climbing under and changing myself.

3. I use OEM filters when I can. My AC/Delco filter is a special part number developed just for my application. Also had good luck with Purolater PUREONE filters.

jbergonzi · February 2000

Thanks again, I plan to follow your advice.

jbadams · February 2000

I think the whole reason that some are advocating waiting several thousand miles before changing to synth is to allow for the rings to seat.

So, if the rings have not seated, you should see some oil usage. But if you monitor your oil very carefully and do not notice any oil consumption, then I would say the rings have seated, and it is OK to switch to synthetic.

jbergonzi · February 2000

I notice you have a 00 Max. Have you heard anything from Nissan about break-in oil or synthetics? I have the same engine in a 00 I30.

Just curious, I plan to follow the advice of rascal8 and markbuck (and yourself I'm assuming).

To all, it seems as I have tried to spread the word about synthetics, even to friends who I thought loved thier cars, all seem to not really care or disbelieve the benefits of synthetic. Call me crazy, but I cannot figure out their apathy. Laziness I guess, too bad.

rascal8 and markbuck: I also have a '91 Infiniti G20 with 187,000 miles on it. No engine trouble whatsoever, but it does burn a quart to a quart and one half per 3,500 miles. Too late to change to synthetic? I recall reading in the article posted at the other site (syn oil #58) that if your car is leaking or burning oil do not bother with synthetic for it will cost you too much money adding syn oil. Your thoughts? Thanks again.

JB

rascal8 · February 2000

As I have posted before it is VERY difficult to get people, especially "car guys" to change their mindset about this subject. I don't think I would ever be an active Amsoil, or other synthetic, dealer - it is just too difficult to educate people about this stuff. I am not an auto engineer or scientist but I have read alot about this subject when I first ran across it in an AOL message board years ago, so I believe in it. All you can do is point people to impartial evidence, and that can be hard to find and hard to understand.
Regarding your older Infiniti I converted my old Toyota at about 140,000 miles with no problems. I do not think it would be a problem in your case. From what I have read synoil and dino oil are completely compatible. If you switch and it burns too much oil you can always switch back. I don't think it will though. BUT, if you do switch the synoil manufacturers highly recommend you use an engine flush first. This flushes out all the "junk" the dino oil left behind. Basically, you dump a can of this into your warm engine and let it idle for several minutes, drain, and refill with the synoil. I did this with my Toyota.

jbadams · February 2000

The manual for the 00 Max does not say anything about a break in oil. I don't believe it is anything but regular 5w-30 oil.

By the way, I changed to Mobil 1 at 1000 miles. I monitored my oil consumption religiously during that time and did not burn a drop. Since changing over, I still have not burned a drop of oil.

jbergonzi · February 2000

Thanks for your response. Have you used a synthetic in the past, and what made you change over to a syn oil at 1000 miles? JB

jbadams · February 2000

I have used a synthetic since 1979.
I changed because... why not? It's winter and synthetic flows better. Mobil says it can be used from day one. Nissan does not say anything against it. Corvettes and BMW (I think) come with synthetic from the factory. Plus, with all the talk about how great synthetic is that you can't use it until your engine is broken in because it lubricates too well... (which I disagree with, but..., see above posts...) I want to protect my engine from the get go.

jbergonzi · February 2000

Have the vehicles in which you have used a sythetice performed measureably better, i.e. miles per gallon, total miles driven, etc. Thanks.

jbadams · February 2000

Not really.

One thing I do with synthetics is lengthen my oil change intervals to every 5k miles instead of 3k. But mpg... I'm not doing worse, but better is hard to tell. 5w-30 should be pretty close regardless of type. I think on start-up, I should be getting better mileage, due to synthetics cold weather performance.

markbuck · February 2000

Mobil 1 0W-30 vs Walmart 5W-30. No difference, 1999 Chev Siverado 5 speed 4.8L.

Put the M1 in for cold starts during a trip to Jackson Hole WY, where encountered temps of -31 when parking outside.

Will go back to 5W- or 10W-30 Walmart oil when my idiot oil change light comes on.

sascuderi · March 2000

For what its worth, I just switched my new 2000
I30 to Mobil 1 at 500 miles. From what I have read in the past, the sooner the better to start using synthetic.

(To the one from Boston, how do you like the I30. Great car with great standard features, wouldn't you say?)

luckyjdr · April 2000

I AM GOOD FRIENDS WITH A GM CERTIFIED MECHANIC
(OVER 25 YEARS AT A GM DEALER). I RECENTLY ASKED
HIM ABOUT THE OIL BECAUSE I NOTICED THE LEVEL IN
MY IMPALA LS 3800 WAS OVERFILLED. I DRAINED OUT 1/2 QT. OF OIL TO BRING IT TO THE PROPER LEVEL. HE TOLD ME THEY MUST HAVE PUT 5 QTS IN INSTEAD OF THE 4 1/2. I NOTICED THE OIL WAS GREEN LIKE PRESTONE AND HE TOLD ME HAT IT IS FLORESANT DYE IN CASE YOU GET A LEAK IT IS EASY TO FIND AND THE DYE STAYS IN FOR 2 TO 3 OIL CHANGES. I ALSO ASKED WHEN I SHOULD CHANGE THE OIL
FOR THE FIRST TIME. THERE IS A SPECIAL OIL USED FOR BREAK-IN, IT CONTAINS A MILD ABRASIVE TO HELP
WITH BREAK- IN AND GM TELLS THE MECHANICS IT HOULD
STAY IN FOR 1500 TO 2000 MILES FOR PROPER BREAK-IN. I HAVE 480 MILES ON MINE AND HAVE HAD IT
1 MONTH. I PLAN TO CHANGE IT AT 1500. I BELIEVE MY
FRIEND 100%, HE SHOULD KNOW WHAT HE IS TALKINGABOUT.

noona · April 2000

I have a '00 Nissan Maxima. My dealer told me not to change my oil until 3750 because it has a special break-in oil. It's not mentioned in the manual (I read it from cover to cover). But I tend to agree that we should follow the manufacturer's instructions. I have about 900 miles on my car and I'm so impatient about the whole break-in period. I can just feel the sheer power of my Maxima waiting to be unleashed. I've read here that a long break-in period is better but how long is long? 2-3000 mi? Also, I plan to take the car to the dealer for oil changes. I've read the virtues of synthetic oil. Do I just ask the dealer to use synth oil? I live in Colorado so it gets pretty cold at night and I want to pamper my car.

redsilverado · April 2000

whar type of compound does GM put in this break
in oil? usually any kind of compound othe than
jewelers rouge will cause complete break in to
occur at way less than 1500 miles.

sam1422 · April 2000

I recently purchased a 2000 Montero Sport. After 1000 miles I am still hearing squeaks from the suspension/breaks. How long will this go on?

jescop · April 2000

The mechanic, where I bought my truck, told me to change oil at 1000 miles. No mention of any break-in oil. This was a GM dealership.

tboner1965 · April 2000

Why don't I see mention of these break-in oils when I look in a Chiltons or Haynes repair manual? Most of these manuals have a section or two on the overhaul of various automobile engines. I have yet to read about filling the crankcase with a special oil. I don't think there is any difference in the tolerances in a newly rebuilt engine and a factory engine. Heck, the one you hand rebuild may be a finer engine than the mass-produced factory model. So I doubt tolerances are an issue.

Conclusion, I believe there is no break-in oil. Rather, most manufacturers build with standard dino-juice oil and have tested with that, and are most comfortable with the engine leaving the factory with that "flavor" of oil. Further, they are comfortable with that oil in the crankcase for 1k-7.5K before the first oil change.

My $0.02

TB

PS, those of you who know someone who just claimed their manufacturer uses "breakin oil", ask them for a part number for that special oil. Just tell them you are rebuilding a brand xxx engine and need some of that special break-in oil. Oh, also ask them if you can get that oil with a long-block or short-block the parts department sells.

If they can't get you a part# there probably is not such an animal.

spokane · April 2000

Tboner65 makes very good points. Volkswagen seems to be the only manufacturer that consistently sticks to the story that break-in oil is a reality .... but even VW doesn't seem to be able to find any of this mysterious lubricant. Dealers for other makes do not seem to have good information with the result that some of them tell us that a break-in oil is used and others say not. In any case, I agree with Tboner65 that no one seems to be able to purchase "break-in" oil.

Indeed, if the original "break-in" oil in my engine contained a mild abrasive ...as has been rumored to be a characteristic of such oil .... for the sake of the engine bearings I would certainly want to replace it immediately. On the other hand, if this elusive oil were somehow better for the engine than commercially available motor oils, why wouldn't the motor-oil marketing folks play this up and advocate it for normal use?

tboner1965 · April 2000

I read in an earlier post (sorry for not giving credit) that break-in oil may just be another weight, such as a 5W-20. (Yes I said 5W20)

Ask the service department what they are instructed to use when they rebuild an engine. If you are really curious, ask you local engine rebuilder what oil they use for a newly rebuilt engine. Or if your shop sells new or reman engines, what oil do the documents with that engine say to use. Certainly short blocks don't ship pre-oiled, so you gotta fill 'em with something.

Like I said earlier, just trot on down to the VW (or whatever your favorite manufacturer is) and ask them for some break-in oil for that engine that your brother-in-law (or whoever you know might be rebuilding one, just in case you really feel bad about lying to the dealer...come to think about it, just lie

anyway you want to have them get you that special breakin oil the salesman/service manager/mechanic/whoever is raving about.

Food for thought?

The wife just got home from shopping, so I've gotta schlep all that stuff from our new Mazda MPV. OBTW, I am hedging our bets. At 1K miles I am changing oil with a 50/50 mix of M1 and Dino juice. Then at 5K intervals we will go with 5W30 M1.

Furthermore, in my Contour at 10K miles I'll drain four of the eight quarts of ATX fluid and replace them with the synthetic flavor. Since the transmission has a drain plug and a screen instead of a filter, Ford recommends a drain, fill, drain and finally a fill to replace the fluid, wasting four quarts of new fluid at I believe 30K mile intervals. I'll probably drain and fill four quarts at every 10K. I'd like to actually get some road use from all of the fluid I buy. (I just can't see buying fluid just to run it through the ATX.)

TB

kb123 · April 2000

Inquired about "break in" period as my new car was a trade from dealer in Detroit & Cleveland & they drove between. I was worried that it be "broken in" properly & was told that new technology doesn't require a break in period.
I just don't know.
thx kb123

pjyoung · April 2000

Read the owners manual. They should have a section devoted to break-in period. After all, they built it and they back it, you would figure that it's in their best interest to provide the proper break-in informaition in their owners manuals.

kb123 · April 2000

got it, read it...basically if I don't drive like a maniac (or typical michigan driver) it's pretty simple. I didn't buy the Passat to race it but to be a fuel efficient car that looks cool & is fun to drive. So far so good.

Vehicle Break-In Period

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