Vehicle Break-In Period

joe111 · May 2000

I bought a new Honda EX in 1990. I still have the car and I have done all the oil changes myself, I've heard too many bad tales about jiffy lube forgetting to put in oil or stripping drain plugs. I did oil and filter changes every 5000 miles for the last 10 years. At first I used 10-40 wt, but after switching to 10-30 wt I noticed that the oil was a lot cleaner at change time. I guess the lighter oil must get filtered better, not sure. I have never used synthetic oil, at 135000 miles the Honda doesn"t burn a drop of oil between changes. Just bought a new 2000 EX this week and despite all the raving about synthetic oil, I plan to continue to use Castrol dino 10-30. Is there anybody who would like to convince me I should use synthetic oil?

bnormann · May 2000

You probably want to read all the posts here:

Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2

Your host, Bruce

dxc2054 · May 2000

Hi I have a question in break-in period. I got a 2000 Camry LE two weeks ago which has an Auto Trans. In the manual it says for the first 1k I should vary the rpm between 2k and 4k. But while I use the 'D' drive most of the time, the gear got automatically shifted and the engine speed was between 1k and 2k rpm. How should I let it vary between 2k and 4k then? Should I turn off the overdrive, or should I shift to '2' whenever possible? Thanks.

rajwar · May 2000

The manual for the 2000 Honda Civic EX 4-dr (manual) just states the following for break-in periods (600 miles):

1. avoid full throttle starts/rapid acceleration
2. avoid hard braking.

No mention of varying speeds or anything.

I have put up 360 miles on my new civic - city+highway, and have only revved up at 4000 rpm accidentally for 3 minutes or so - else always stayed below 3000 rpm (generally 2500). I have not really varied speeds - done 80 mph for maybe 1 mile and 75 mph for a few miles, but stayed below 60 mph. All gear changes performed below 3000 rpm.

Do I have anything to worry about?

jackal4464 · May 2000

Well what you all are askin is not a simple question, but I have heard alot of different things from different people, I am currently goin to school to be an aircraft mechanic, and I know that aircraft motors are different but different manufactuers recomend different things since they use different materials in their engines.....the best thing i can tell u is to go with the manufactuer and what they tell you, but I have personally owned a toyota and I just traded it in on a different vechicle and i put over 250k on it with only normal wear and tear replacement parts added.... as for the honda, everyone i know with a honda, has little to no problems, but it will all depend on how much you love your vechicle as to how it is goin to be either good or bad... But here is a good thing to keep in mind, always keep it under 3500 rpm and change the oil and filter and u should have no problems.

jackal4464 · May 2000

Another thing that you might not know about, and I didn't know it until I went to school is oil analysis, they use it on aircraft and the military also uses it on thier vechicles, what it does...
u take a sample of your used oil when u are doin an oil change. and u send it off to the lab.. the lab does a spectrial analysis on the oil, and they in turn send u a print out of parts per billion on what types of metal they found in your oil. and they also give u a how goes it on your engine they tell you if the levels of the particular metal they found is within normal limits, or if it is wearin excessively, and they can also tell you if your engine is getting the right fuel air ratio, and if u have something that is wearin too excessively they can tell u what is failing in your engine i.e. frount main bearing and so on..

I have found the kits at autozone, but they are too expensive for me, so call and check around, there may be someone local who will have a kit or they might do the testing in your town...

I found that at a local autoparts store the kit was 10 dollars and it took two weeks for the lab to send my results back to me......

Rob

tpmiller1 · May 2000

for 18.50 see;
www.blackstone-labs.com

ssmith1 · June 2000

I don't follow your logic in switching to 10-30 instead of 10-40. You say the oil at changing of the 10-30 was cleaner than that of the 10-40, therefore you switched to 10-30.

But where is the junk from the the less-clean 10-40 is going (or not going) for the 10-30? I would think that if the oil has more junk at changing time, it has done a better job of cleaning.

dodgeomni · June 2000

I had my first oil change at 1200 miles. This was only because the car was almost six months out of the factory and I had driven it stop and go for 1200 miles. My concern now is - did I have that first oil change to soon - I have read some posts here and otherplaces that there is a special break-in fluid in the oil that should stay in for an extended time. I did call my dealership service dept and inquire about changing the oil a 1200 miles and explained that I had had the car for over three months with mainly short distance driving and they told me it was a good idea to go ahead with the first oil change. I am wondering now if I acted to quickly.

spokane · June 2000

Your early oil change is certainly OK. A few dealers, including some Honda, discourage early oil changes on the basis of the initial oil being a "break-in" oil but several of us have attempted to get information on such oil. With the possible exception of Volkswagen, the evidence is very strong that no such oil exists. (If you ask the dealer for some break-in oil he will almost certainly tell you he has no such thing.) Oil changes which are too frequent may be hard on the car owner's budget but they provide insurance -- maybe unnecessary insurance -- of long engine life.

bnormann · June 2000

6 months of stop and go, even at only 1200 miles, is definitely enough time to seat the rings

auerbach · July 2000

We are taking our 3 week old MPV to Maine on
Sunday - its about a 600 hundred mile round trip
with probably another 100 or so of sightseeing. My
MPV will have about 500 on it before we leave. My
question is: Should I change the oil before or
after our trip?

devoy · July 2000

but no manufacturer requires oil chg b4 3000 miles change it when you get back
p.s. try not to overuse your cruise...:)

vac23 · July 2000

insurance. I would change it before you go. When the engine is new there are impurities & cleaner substance that come off the engine & ends up in the oil. You don't want that stuff circulating in your engine. that's my .02

petee67 · July 2000

Hello all, need some advice. Ive had my BMW M Roadster one week (500 miles). I read in the manual not to run the engine over 4500 rpm or 106 mph for the first 1200 miles. On occasion I have taken my rpm's to 5500 but only got up to 90 mph. I have also given the car full throttle once by accident, but just for a second. I really try to take it easy on the car, but it is so dang fun to drive, and drive fast. Especially in Southern California. I have made up my mind to really watch my engine speed from here on out. Does anyone think Ive damaged my engine, or hurt my prolonged performance?

vac23 · July 2000

Don't think you caused any damage. If you did that regularly then that's a difference story. I wouldn't worry about it. Just enjoy the car

petee67 · July 2000

Andy, thanks for the reply. I was a little worried, but i feel better now.

cwo4 · July 2000

Break in the engine I mean. I'll be returning to the US after being stationed overseas. I'm picking up my new Toyota Echo (here they are called Yaris and are Europe's car of the year) and driving straight to Mississippi. Do I need to worry about breaking it in? I'll be driving around 450 miles each day. If I plant myself on the Interstate at 70 mph, what will it do to my new car?

tboner1965 · July 2000

You just speed up and slow down while it is safe to do so in traffic. You can shift gears and do many things to change both the engine speed and vehicle speed during the first couple of days.

You could always drive some back roads on days one and two. That should give you some stop and go driving. While I don't know where you are going, I'm sure there are ways to go that don't involve exclusive interstate travel.

Just some thoughts...

TB

heckel2 · July 2000

I thought maybe someone might give me some oppionions. There is alot of dealers in my area that are offering free matience for the first 2 years or 26,000 miles. The ??? I have is when you take your vehicle in they say to change in every 3K. Anyway since they are doing free maintence now they say every 5K 7500K. They say that is what the book says for maintence. The book has said that for maintence all along but if you wouldn't change your oil every 3K then you know they wouldn't of wanted to cover the warranted stuff. Now it is ok these garages make me sick they just say one thing then the other please give me your oppionions. Thanks this is a good site

heng · July 2000

Yeah - they will tell you whatever is to their advantage. If you are comfortable with the factory oil change schedule then there isn't an issue. (that's a different story)

karluvver · August 2000

Took a tour of the Chrysler minivan assembly plant in St. Louis. At the end of the line they put the vehicles on a dynamometer and run them at full throttle to test the power. How is this for breaking in?

bnormann · August 2000

...kinda flies in the face of every theory I ever heard....It's a good way to check for infant mortality on electronic assemblies, but a brand new car engine...?!?

Bruce

maxima · August 2000

what about months? my mom drives 8000km a year and it is recommended that you change oil every 3 months is this reality or BS?

cinderfan · September 2000

First, I admit I didn't scroll back through all 180 postings here, so if this is a duplicated question - just tell me.
I have a '00 BMW Z3. The recommendation from BMW is that the first oil change be at 15,000 miles. I originally thought they had one too many zeroes there, but upon closer inspection I discovered that that is exactly the right number. Apparently they suggest every 15,000 miles or two years. Seems more than insane to me...someone who almost religiously had the oil changed in my old car every three months (never put 3000 miles on in three months).
My brother, who also drives a BMW, recommended a change at 1200 miles and then again about every three to four thousand miles - always using the prescribed synthetic oil. This seems like it is wasting the synthetic oil (and seriously denting my wallet!)
Any suggestions?

canadiancl · September 2000

From talking to various dealers, the consensus is that for the modern automobile, there is no real need for a formal break-in period. Common sense is don't do anything to a new car that you wouldn't do to an old one. ie. gun it from stop light to stop light, run it at full throttle for extended stretches, slam on the brakes, etc. But personally I still feel better if I baby the car for the first 1000 miles, even though I know it may not make any difference.

theresa11 · September 2000

Just bought a new Volvo and was wondering about the break-in period. I've been told to vary speeds, do not use cruise control, no fast acceleration, keep rpm to below 3000 and no hard breaking. If all of this is true, then how many miles do I have to follow these guidelines. Thanks for any comments.

ish4 · September 2000

Just wondering does Toyota use a break-in oil for their cars??
I changed my oil at 2000 miles.

mdrew · September 2000

The conventional wisdom usually says the first 1,000 miles, as it says in the last post before yours. I didn't know any of this until I drove my car about 900 miles and started reading this topic! But I don't have cruise and don't break hard and you can't help vary speeds most of the time in urban areas, etc. so I don't think I did anything too bad; took the freeway home in my new car after cruising streets for a couple of hours... Then again, many now say it doesn't matter with modern cars the way it used to; I don't know.

tboner1965 · September 2000

If someone tells you about break in oil, ask them where to buy some. Tell them you are rebuilding an engine and need some. Or tell them you are buying a factory crate motor and need some for that.

You will soon find out, there is no such thing as break-in oil.

At most, they use a 20 weight (I've heard this about VW's) But have yet to find that bottle marked. Break in oil.

Also, the long-blocks sold at Advanced Auto Parts come with Mobil 1. Now I don't think that is a special break-in oil either.

TB

canadiancl · September 2000

I don't think it is a special "break-in" oil per se, but some additive that the manufacturer has put in the oil. At least that's what Honda dealers have told me.

tboner1965 · September 2000

Just go visit your Honda dealer and tell them you are rebuilding a Honda engine and need some of that break-in additive.

I have yet to find any special oil or additive. It may be out there, but I've never seen it.

Just check any Chiltons or Haynes manual (they usually have an engine rebuild section) and they don't seem to call for any special oils.

Cheers,

TB

spokane · September 2000

I must agree with tboner1965. Many dealer service departments and others continue with stories about break-in oil or additives but no one seems to have ever seen any or received any chemical data regarding how such oil differs from conventional motor oil.

Some of the stories from Volkswagen are pretty insistent that a break-in oil is used in those vehicles but, even there, I haven't heard of anyone coming forward with real evidence regarding the use of break-in oil. However, tboner1965, we're still listening, aren't we?

mwikle · September 2000

I work for a major oil company. We develop, refine, blend and sell lubricants. OEMs (original equipment manufacturer...car company in this case) can specify a "special" factory fill oil if they wish...it does not have to be sold at retail. Since they often take full tankers of bulk oil, custom blends are an easy possibility...really depends on Engineering philosophy they have.

My memory says one major OEM pretty much just wanted additional Q.C. documentation on a our GF-2/SJ Passinger Car Motor Oil.

And, yes, in general, highly special break-in oils are less common it seems. I would not change befor first severe service mileage on new car (usually 3K). The oil is likely still fine at that point, but I have seen on my cars at least, extra visible bits of metals in the first filter when torn down for observation (messy!). Just in case the filter blew out (very, very unlikely albeit) wanna get those bits outta my engine system early.

spokane · September 2000

Thank you, your response certainly makes sense. Your description of the request for detailed Quality Control documentation certainly sounds as though you are a supplier to Ford Motor Co.

citabria · October 2000

Factory-new and overhauled aircraft (air-cooled) engines use a break-in oil for the first 25 or so hours of operation. This break-in oil is a straight mineral oil with no additives (no detergents, no anti-scuff agents, or anything else). I have been told by aircraft mechanics that this is used to aid in seating the rings. Air-cooled engines operate with a bit more clearance between moving parts than other engines. I tend to agree with previous posters that auto engines don't use a break-in oil. Maybe VW did when they had air-cooled engines. Still, the few new cars (and a few overhauled engines) I have had had their initial oil change at 1500 miles. (Sorry, still no definitive answer!)

cenotaph · October 2000

I'm not sure about the '00 Z3s, but my '01 330Ci, and IIRC most BMWs made in the past few years, have computer controlled service intervals. Basically, the various computers in the car keep track of how you drive and adjust the service interval to match. In cars equipped with the "computer display" you can view a count down in miles until your next service. This value starts with the 15K that you mentioned. When the computers decide that it's time for service, the "service indicator" (not part of the "computer display" above) light will come on and you take your car to the dealer for service.

My question is, has anyone heard anything about how well this system works? As in, has any major damage been found by following the computers' suggestions? The free maintenance that comes with all new BMWs is based on this indicator, so unless you want to pay, you have to go with its suggestions. Also, I've heard of the early E46 3 series vehicles having problems with the stock oil filters over this extended period of time. BMW is aware of the problem and I'm fairly sure has fixed it by now since the information is fairly old, but does anyone know for sure?

heng · October 2000

I followed the computer monitored oil change interval once on my Gran Prix. It took about 5500 miles. The oil was visibly sludgy. I usually change oil around 4000 miles and never seen it so loaded.

So now I ignore the computer and stick to my time proven 4000 mile or so oil change interval. I've owned many cars past 100,000 miles with no engine problems.

wahoowizard · October 2000

I have a 2001 Sienna and changed the oil and filter today(at 3000 miles).When the filter is removed, oil drains down onto an engine mount and then spreads into various inaccessible places and eventually onto the floor in widely separated places. Big mess. Has anyone found a cure for this problem?

armtdm · October 2000

I do find it interesting that when the customer paid for the oil changes the they recommended every 3,000 miles. Now, with their latest incentive they pay for it but the light comes on around 15,000. I am fairly certain that it was that way all along ( you could extend the drains) . What really irritates me about BMW ( a real attitute among dealers) is that if you want to get the indicator light turned off you either purchase the gizmo ($50) or have the dealer change the oil. German rip off!

winnyv · November 2000

I had a 4Runner that did this exact thing. I used-believe it or not-puppy training pads. They are very absorbent and fairly cheap. I just spread them around between the skid plate and oil filter,when the filter is removed all the oil is soaked up. Hope the helps.

jnguyen68 · November 2000

My wife and I just brought a 2001 Honda Accord V6. It currently has about 500 miles on the odometer. After reading through the owner's manual, I was puzzled that it recommended 5W-20 oil. I could not find this grade at any of my local auto stores. I am a firm believer in sythentic oil. I want to flush the engine out at 1,000 miles to remove any metal particles generated during the break in period. I want to use Mobil 1, however, I can't seem to find the 5W-20 sythetic oil anywhere. My questions are - what's the difference between 5W-30 and 5W-20, can I use 5W-30 Mobil 1 instead of the recommended grade on the Accord V6? Any help would be appreciated.

armtdm · November 2000

I am a firm believer that one can always use a lower number on the low end such as a 0W in lieu of a 5W ro 10W. On the other end though it may make a diff as that is the viscocity when hot and if the engine was designed for the 20 weight the 30 may be too thick for it. Try the dealer until Mobil or Amsoil or RedLine come out with a 20 weight

heng · November 2000

There may be a slight (and I mean slight) effect on your gas mileage. I wonder if 5W20 was a misprint?

Like the other post said: check with your dealer.

I've never seen 5W20 either.

tronsr · November 2000

Ford Escape uses 5-20 also and Motorcraft makes it. Most Ford dealers carry it and it will soon be available in local auto parts stores. You will get better gas mileage with the 5-20.

heng · November 2000

Of course the manufacturers certify and warranty the vehicles running with 5W-20. But as a mechanical design engineer, I wonder what has changed in the engine design to physically allow this.

Are they putting more risk on you the owner to squeek an additional 2/10th of a mpg?

rnarayanan · December 2000

I just got a new 2000 Accord. The dealer asked me to wait till 7500 miles before the first oil change. Is this something new in Accords? or should I just do the oil change now when I have 3100 miles???
Any advice would help.

accordvsix · December 2000

I know this has been discussed here before, but I also have a v6 Accord which I love, and I'm currently at about 4500 miles, I was planning to go the 7500 before the oil change, but my question is, what is my driving considered? Dusty Dirt Roads: Hardly ever. I live out in the country and drive a 30 mile stretch of highway every day with about 3 stop lights, and the town I work at is a small town with maybe 75,000 people, so it's not a metro area, so should I change it now or what. Anyones advice is greatly appreciated. THanks in advance.

trooper12 · December 2000

It's commonly recommended that your first oil change on a brand new car should be around 1k-3k miles. The reasoning is that as the car breaks in, it releases metals and deposits. Most people will tell you that after 2K miles, the car is fully broken in. In my vehicles, i do my first oil change at 1K to get the metal deposits out. I don't want to make it sound like there will be a ton of metal in your oil, but the metal concentration will be higher than in an engine that is fully broken in. I'm extremely careful with caring for my cars. And proper regular oil changes are the best thing for the longevity of your car. After the initial 1K change, i change the oil every 3K.

skole · January 2001

I just bought a 2001 Honda Accord. Can someone tell me more about the break-in period. You know like what to do and what not to do. I am especially interested in the level of speed. Thx!

Vehicle Break-In Period

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