Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
Options
Vehicle Break-In Period
This discussion has been closed.
Comments
I'll try to do more short errand runs around town with the car, which will give a greater variance in speed.
I already have 2000miles on it, averaging 135miles a day (mostly Highway driving).
Is the break-in period over ? What do u feel about what I did so far regarding break-in period.I have feeling I screwed it up big time !
Please offer some advice.
It is best to vary the engine speed somewhat during this period, but the key points for a long-life engine are avoidance of sustained full-throttle operation, keep proper oil in the crankcase, and avoid of overheating the engine.
What have you done to cause you to feel that you have caused damage?
However, as has been said by many contributors here, it does provide an extra measure of assured long and healthy engine life to change the oil early. I'd suggest 500-700 miles. Also the filter, of course. Subsequently, changes somewhat more often than the manufacturer suggests will be helpful. Choose a good brand (most are good) and use the viscosity prescribed by the manufacturer. May you have many miles of good motoring.
Thanks.
guitarzan
Community leader/Vans conference
August 17. As I was going through the owner's manual with my sales man, he did everything but sing, dance, and jump to the fact that they didn't want to see my car in the shop until I had reached the 7,500 "break in oil" recommended intrval. He told me that if I try to get the oil changed at the dealership they will refuse the car. It was absolutely critical that I keep the same oil in the car for 7,500 miles.
March 1998. Dad bought a MB CLK320. My Honda story above is almost word for word what the MB dealer told my pops. Being that both my dad and I are 3,500-5,000 oil changers he brough his car back to MB to have the first oil change at 4750 miles. They refused the car - (unless there was something wrong with it; which there wasn't). They shoved him back in the car and told him to "go home".
So those of you that have concerns here are three auto manufacturers (two in this posting, one from posting #64)
1. Honda
2. Mercedes Benz
3. VW/Audi
that tell you that you can go 7500 miles before you get your first oil change. Since the engineers did such a great job on engineering the '76 MB that saved my dad's life from an 8 car pile-up; I'll trust them to tell me when I should change my oil.
BTW: Honda DOES recommend that you change your first "factory oil" at 3750 if you drive regularly on dirt roads, tow regularly, or sit long intervals in stop and go traffic.
The owner's manual recommends the first oil change at 3000 miles. I specifically asked the dealer's "product specialist" -- I guess you could call him the go-to guy who fields your questions about whatever -- about break-in oil and he said Nissan doesn't use it. He also said the dealer will change the oil at 1000 miles for free.
Elsewhere in these topics, I have seen recommendations for changing transaxle fluid at 1000 miles also. The rationale for these changes is the same: remove the fine metal bits that are bound to be suspended in the fluid. I am pretty much convinced about the 1000-mile engine oil change but am still on the fence as far as the transaxle change goes, and haven't gotten around to asking the "product specialist" about that one yet.
One more thing to remember - (in further support of posting #64) - filters, oil, and 'fluids' these days are engineered/designed so much better than what we had in the past. So I think that some of the mechanics knowledge of the past is virtually moot for today's cars.
My last car - 1994 Nissan Altima - had its oil changed every 3500-5000 miles depending on driving conditions. Many times - even at or near 100k - the oil was maybe the color of Samual Adams beer hardly dirty at 5000 miles! So when automanufacturers say that their cars can go 7500 miles I don't doubt it....
Follow your owner's manual to the type of driving you do and you will be safe. As mentioned above, the engineers of the car companies have spend some $$$$ on research - they, more than anybody on these postings - will know what the limits of their vehicles are designed for.
Enjoy!
One more thing to remember - (in further support of posting #64) - filters, oil, and 'fluids' these days are engineered/designed so much better than what we had in the past. So I think that some of the mechanics knowledge of the past is virtually moot for today's cars.
My last car - 1994 Nissan Altima - had its oil changed every 3500-5000 miles depending on driving conditions. Many times - even at or near 100k - the oil was maybe the color of Samual Adams beer hardly dirty at 5000 miles! So when automanufacturers say that their cars can go 7500 miles I don't doubt it....
Follow your owner's manual to the type of driving you do and you will be safe. As mentioned above, the engineers of the car companies have spend some $$$$ on research - they, more than anybody on these postings - will know what the limits of their vehicles are designed for.
Enjoy!
Jonathan75, 75 miles isn't really too bad. Yes, going under 50 can be dangerous, and I wouldn't recommend it. Vary your speed every 10 minutes, from 50 to 58 or so (I do not advocate breaking the speed laws), and you'll be fine. The key is to not rev the motor too high. Don't do any full throttle accelerations, as the motor revs higher when you do. Take it easy, and try to do some gentle city driving for your next couple hundred miles. The car will be fine.
Yes, some cars, like Mercedes and BMW have super-hard piston rings and cylinders that take several thousand miles to break in. Many Japanese cars have ceramic cylinder liners, and don't really need a break in. I wish the information for each model car was published, but I've never seen such information. So just follow the generally prescribed rules for your make of car, and by all means, don't worry about it. Cars are manufactured to high tolerances nowadays, so you don't have to be so precise about it.
Stoli, thanks for that informative post!
Chevy, in general, mileage will improve a little after you've driven the car a while. However, atmospheric conditions, road conditions, and driving habits play a part also. I had an Integra, and never got more than 32mpg, even when doing all freeway and taking it easy. Some Civic and Integra owners report much better mileage than that. As long as you're in the ballpark of the car's rating, don't worry about a few extra m's per gallon. Oh, yes, your Civic has much better power than the Geo does, for passing, etc. This is a major factor in the mileage it will get.
guitarzan
Community Leader/Vans Conference
I've already had my Honda to 85mph. Both scenarios were the "I'm in the slow lane doing 85 and everyone else is flying by"!
The V6 redlines at 6300 so for the first 500 miles I figure I'll keep it under 4000. Gradually I'll move upto 5000 then to 6000 (if needed).
Is this paranoia or are there some benefits?
Thanks all!
Hey stoli does your post qualify as a "fire and brimstone" sermon?
I think I'm safe. However, I'll watch the speed for the next 500.
Thanks for the feedback. Makes sense.
It doesn't sound bad, just noticeable. Otherwise, the car drives great and I've been fluctuating the speed.
Also, how have other Honda owners fared with their first oil-change at 3500 (or 7500) miles? (I also inquired at the dealership and they said to leave the original oil in there until at least 3500miles).
guitarzan
Community Leader/Vans Conference
Also noticed that it pulled a little to the right. Checked tires, all seem normal. Should I see the dealer to get re-aligned. How bad must it become before I take it in. I have 1200 miles on it an did not notice until I was doing some longer freway miles and let go of the wheel with no acceleration. I dont want a problem to get away.
Thanks a bunch,
alex
I read most of your posts and thanks for the info. It seems following the manufacturer recommendation is the thing to do. In my owner manual they recommend to change the oil at 5,000 miles. They don't speak of breaking in etc. What would you do? your advice is very appreciated.
Thanks
Am I just old fashioned in my reasoning here? I know break in is not as critical as it was 20 or 30 yrs ago but I do Not believe claims that no break in is required. Mass produced pistons and cylinders simply cannot be built w/o any imperfections whatsoever on their contact surfaces. The same rational applies to new brake drums or disks.
Any comments agreeing or non are appreciated,
DH
I expect that conservative cars suffer less abuse from prospective buyers than do the performance models. However, a few of the salesmen seem to delight in abusing a new Mercury Marquis just as much as a sporty Cougar.
We should also be careful in purchasing a car that is "swapped with another dealer 100 miles away." Some of the drivers employed to move cars between dealers are quite careful but I think we have all observed a few who are determined to drive as fast as possible.
As to the odometer readings, there is a small consolation. It's my impression that today's dealers are not likely to tamper with the odometer reading.
Stoli at #75 is right. I work in an aerospace company and asked some of the engineers about gearing and bearing break-in. They agree the engine will do find but the whole drivetrain needs TLC. The gears and bearings need to meshes and mate with each other, that is way the 600 mile and 1000 mile break-in period. If the RPMs are too high too soon they may over heat and fail early thus have a shorter operating life. I just bought a Y2K Jetta diesel with a 100K-mile/ 10-year warrant so I will fellow the manufacture's plan.
PS. Almost 400 mile and still over a quarter tank of fuel to go, Love it.
That response was here twenty-four hours ago, I saw it....
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
I just purchased a new 2000 VW Jetta VR6. I received the car with 7 miles on it. I asked the dealer about break in oil and change interval and he said I should definitely leave the original oil in for at least 1000 miles. This seems to be good advice. He said they do indeed use a "break in" oil from Castrol. He also said not to take the car above 85 for the first 500 miles and also not to red line it until then. I haven't. I do know that I will change it at 1000. He said to use Castrol GTX10w/40...leave it in for at least another 2000 miles then I could go synthetic. This will allow all surfaces to mate and the rings to seat in etc.
One thing I do know is that most (if not all) modern engines are internally "balanced" at the factory. This means that even though the parts like pistons and rods are mass produced, they are all weighed before being used for assembly. If you have 6 piston rods, you weigh them each in succession, then take the lightest one and use it as a standard for the group. So for example, if the lightest rod weighs 2.1 lbs then the rest are shaved down to 2.1 as well. That way the reciprical masses of all components in the engine are even. That is why modern engines are so reliable.
Of course advances in cylinder head design and internal balance shafts have made a huge contribution as well. I know for a fact that the German companies like Mercedes Benz, Porsche
and Audi/VW have been doing this for years which is why they are renouned for their engine life expectancy. As far as I know all manufactures with the exception of a couple I wont mention do this today. My two cents.
P S Will be stopping for an overnight about halfway back.
VW also does this, I know for sure. They have particularly hard rings/cylinders and need to break in.
Guitarzan
Community Leader/Vans Conference
Does the book say how long one should be at the operating temperature? I just bought a 200 Cavalier - and it gets to operating temperature - a shy bit below 195 in a matter of 5 minutes on the road.
Does it also talk about doing oil changes and filters? I am not goign to change my own oil, and install Mobile1 Filters.
Thanks.
That was interesting about the sustained trips - to let the car idle a bit. Does it say how long? It almost seems as if the Cavalier cooling system, and I am not sure - is designed to keep the temperature at about 190. No matter how fast or slow I drive (my commute is a combo of 45, 25, 65 mph roads, sustained on 65 mph longer)- once it gets to 190 - the gauge will not move, ever during idles at lights or waiting for trains - until I decide to turn the engine off for the long ones.