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Here is an article that may help you.
So you have an EGR code
richez2000,
Yes, it is a normal reaction to the cleaner. Although, why did you have them cleaned in the first place?
Most often, there is no need for the cleaning, unless there is an underlying problem.
As was said, usually what happens is the chemicals get onto the O2 sensor and the misfire usually gets picked up on the computer and the light comes on. If the light does not go off with in 50 miles or about 10 restarts, there may be another problem.
Upon inspection by an independent mechanic (whom I trust) it was found that my 98 Transport had the wrong size spark plugs in it.
I took it to the dealer and explained all my problems- transmission, fuel sensor, horn fuse that blows every time I use the horn (literally- I replace it and can use it once and then have to replace it again) etc. and of course the hole in my gas tank caused by the catalytic converter.
The dealer says that the fuel injectors were mucked up and were not seating properly which allowed raw gas into the converter, etc and that is what caused the eventual hole in my gas tank. He said he'd split the cost of replacing them, which they claim to be an $800 job.
I asked that while they were waiting for the fuel injectors to arrive, (because they had to order them don't you know) they replace the spark plugs with the correct size and the service tech says, well if you want to...
Arrgh! I don't know a whole lot about cars, but I thought having the right sized spark plugs was kinda important. Please any advice on this would be helpful. Thanks
I am utterly clueless.
It ONLY comes on when there is a fault in the system. It will go out when the fault is no onger detected. Usually, if it is a hard fault, it will store the trouble codes.
When the check engine light is on, the trouble code can be retrieved by following the instructions on this page.
Has anyone used or reviewed any of the PalmOS based OBDII scanners/tools? Specifically I would be interested in one compatible with the Handspring Visor series. And comments or recommendations?
For 0patience (or anyone else) you mentioned a few months ago you were reviewing a PC based scanner described at http://www.obd-2.com/index.html , do you have any follow-up to this?
I have a 98.5 Audi A4 in which I had to replace the battery recently. Since connecting the new battery the MIL light has been on but the car runs fine. The OBD codes can be accessed via the climate control LED display ("88.8" format), 76 values can be retrieved. The first of these is supposed to be a Diagnostic Trouble Code. "00.0" reportedly means "No malfunction present", but my display shows simply ".0" and there are no other DTCs that end in ".0" Anyone familiar with Audi/VW diagnostics? Comments?
Finally, if one were to disconnect the battery for an adequate length of time, which successfully extinguishes the MIL, my understanding is that the DTC should still remain stored. Does the code remain stored until formally cleared, regardless of whether the malfunction has resolved? Or will it self clear? If the MIL is reset and the code is still stored, or malfunction still exists, will the MIL reactivate?
Regards,
DJW
One of our guys did a review on that scan program, you can view it on this page.
I am not sure how the Audi is set up for the code retrieval, so I am afraid I am not much help there.
Normally, when the fault is no longer there, the MIL light goes out. And if it doesn't detect the fault again for so many restarts (Some are about 50 restarts), the code clears. A high dollar scanner will be able to retrieve "inactive" codes history that are normally not accessible with regular scanners. But if the code is inactive, the only time that info is useful is on an intermittent problem. If the light is on solid, there is a fault.
I believe the codes I described for my Audi are not specifically OBD codes, but some of the similar information in proprietary format. But I could be wrong...
DJW
This is a big concern today since only dealers [or sneeks like us ] can get around it and secure all the software and computer hardware necessary to diagnose [auxillary non engine items] on cars like Lexus and Infiniti.
PO130 = O2 sensor CIRCUIT malfunction (bank 1, sensor 1)
PO150 = O2 sensor CIRCUIT malfunction (bank 2, sensor 1)
The engine control module does not have the capability of determining that the sensors are defective. What it can determine is that it's reading an out of range signal from the sensor CIRCUITS. This includes the sensors and all associated wiring, connectors, etc. Considering your car was in a frontal collision I'd suggest there's now a wiring problem, especially if the CEL wasn't on prior to the collision. It'd be pretty coincidental that both sensors failed simultaneously, right after the collision (unless both received mechanical damage from the impact). I'd suggest that the shop which did the original repairs should have the sensors AND wiring checked. There should be some provision for hidden damage in the insurance claim.
in my old '89 caravan, bloody lights comes on for no reason, no performance effect, nothing at all. even passed emissions test with flying marks! got sick and tired of this light, i unplugged the bloody bulb and light never comes on anymore!
of course i don't recommend doing this to newer cars. if it's an older car and you have no performance probs, passed emissions test, etc. then just pull that bulb out!
just my 2 cents!
http://www.batauto.com/cgi-bin/Forum/db_TalkToMeV2.cgi?forum_name=domestics
Called body shop and they said not their problem so I called my insurance. They said call back body shop and make an appointment for my car and the insurance company so they could look at it. Called back my insurance and they said fax them the bill and the description of the problem from the Nissan dealer. Faxed it to them and they called back to say they will send me a check for the estimated repair of the 02 sensors and also for the money I had to pay upfront for Nissan to check the car out. Received check the other day ($550). Meanwhile somewhere in this forum, I read to disconnect the battery for a few hours. I did this about one week ago and so far the check engine light has not come back on. The car is running good and gas mileage is still good. I'll still wait awhile though before I go and spend the money else where.
I changed the O² sensor what made disappear all the codes - for about one day. I still have code 51. I checked the egr and I think it works, looks very clean (my car runs on liquified petroleum gas)I did notice recently I seem to loose coolant (I can visualy see it all over the engine compartiment) When I started my car yesterday the cooling hose coming from the intake manifold was very hot (it leaked where the hose goes at the radiator and when I fastened it tighter very hot steamy water escaped for a moment) It seemed strange to me that when I screwed the radiator cap off the water was still cold overthere. The temperature gage in the car never indicates my car is overheating.
Does anyone have any clue why I have these explosions in my intake manifold, could the cooling of that intake manifold be the problem ?
thx
I would check the ignition timing, if thats good, you may have a bad timing belt, and it just skipped a few teeth, not enough to stop the motor from running but enough to make it backfire. 90% of the time if backfireing just starts with no warning signs prior it is a sign the belt is going bad.
My first guess would be to make sure the timing belt is good, if you have not changed it yet, with your mileage it's due for it any ways. Better to do it now than have it snap and strand you.
Keep us informed on what you find out.
Your car runs great, no CEL and yet you still have to spend money for the mystery problems.
This is like money from heaven for those techs whose main goal is raking in the dough.
below 30 F. To me it sounds like piston slap and it go's away when the engine heats up to
around 150 F. Also whats does the check engine light and the gas cap have in common?????
this car has 45,000 on it and I have been useing Mobil 1 5w30.
depending on filter design, phase of moon, how much income GM wants from filters, etc. I would expect to have the filter as a maintenance item every 30 to 50,000 miles on a pressurized system.
if you buy gas in a dirty-air area, consider that every time the level goes down at the gas station's big tanks, they pull in air through those long snorkel tubes sticking up 20 feet to keep from crushing the tanks underground... and they take in whatever slop is in the air and expose it to the fuel. that could mean in Potato Patch, Idaho when the winter wind is whipping the bare fields into the air, you are getting a lot of dirt in your gas... same thing if you fill outside a steel mill. in those areas, you will plug a fuel filter faster.
Would love for a dealer to try that on me-that is a both fists pounding on the counter ranting screaming name calling opportunity.
Miles: 69,000
About 6000 miles ago, the CEL and ABS warning lights illuminated. They come and go intermittently, leading me to suspect a loose connection somewhere. If the ABS is not illuminated, the instrument cluster will be dead (including the digital shift selector window). Everything comes back to life when the ABS light illuminates again. I have tested the brakes, and trust me, the ABS system is working.
Changed the serpentine belt shortly after the CEL started coming on - the ABS light started shortly after the new belt was installed.
Checked the codes using the ignition switch as described in the Haynes Repair Manual.
Codes: 12, 31, 33, 55
The van eats batteries like I eat steak. I think we're on the 5th one, but I've stopped counting.
One other interesting clue - started occasionally dieseling and backfiring after the new belt. And the ABS light will remain faintly illuminated after the engine is shut down - gotta turn the key on and off again to clear it.
Something tells me the belt is a contributing factor, but I believe it is more. Would appreciate any help any of you pros can give to a very perplexed amature!
THE ONLY WAY the light can be turned off is to fix the problem. Unplugging the ECM fuse may reset the ECM, but the codes are still there and if the problem is still there, which it more than likely will be, the light will stay ON.
The light comes on when the ECM finds a fault. Usually, the fault has to be in multiples, so it doesn't usually just turn on for no reason at all.
The light will remain on until the system no longer sees the fault. So, unless the thing fixes itself, if the light is on steady (meaning a hard fault), then unplugging everything isn't going to solve the problem.
One thing I have noticed here lately, there is alot of misinformation being thrown out, this isn't helping the folks who really need the correct information.
You cannot erase codes by disconnecting the battery. You cannot read codes by shorting a specific pin on a connector. It used to be possible on older cars. The error code, or what they call a trouble code, would flash out Morse Code style. No longer since OBDII.
A scan tool, or scanner, is required. They can be had for as low as $200 or so. Some are universal and work on all 1996 and later cars. Some are specific to only, GM, or Ford, etc...
I use a universal one that connects to my Palm PDA and it works great.
www.auterraweb.com
I own 1995 Dodge Ram 1500 pickup with 97000 miles on the odometer, recently the truck was overheating, I took it to a private mechanic shop and he changed the Thermostat and the problem was solved, however on my way home the engine check light came on. Now when the truck is cold in the morning the light is off, however after driving it for considerable time say 20 to 30 minutes the light goes on, more in the evening than the cold mornings. Could anybody possibly give me an advice what to do knowing that the truck is running perfectly and I changed the Oxygen Sensor 2 years ago.
Thank you in advance.
http://www.batauto.com/Chrysler.html