Check Engine light

alcan · February 2002

If your car is not OBD-II compliant (some 95's were), the info on code retrieval is below. Use Mode 3. If there's a 16 pin diagnostic connector below the instrument panel to the left of the steering column, it's OBD-II compliant and a scan tool will be required to retrieve codes.

http://www.batauto.com/nissan.html

jawhn · February 2002

My wife left the lights on overnite so the battery was very weak (not dead)in the morning. After jump starting the car the "Check Engine Light" was on. No previous problems. Is there a simple way to reset the light?

mrdetailer · March 2002

My sister visited us last Sunday. Her car at idle would race, slow down, race again and put out clouds of blue smoke. When I drove it to the mechanic, the check engine light came on. My sister said that it had been coming on continually for at least 6 months.

The mechanic replaced the PCV and EGR valve and did a complete fuel injection service. They said the entire emissions system was gunked up with carbon. It was hooked up to the machine for about 45 minutes, and now runs really smooth.

FYI, they said that is is common for GMC vehicles to build up carbon.

Can anyone tell me what an EGR valve does. Obviously I never had a problem with one because I'd never even heard of it.

alcan · March 2002

An Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve meters a small portion of spent exhaust gases back into the intake tract to reduce combustion temperature, after the engine has reached a given temperature and the throttle is off idle. This reduces the formation of NOx (oxides of nitrogen), a major player in photochemical smog. Most domestic light duty vehicles have been equipped with them since about 1974.

mrdetailer · March 2002

The mechanic showed me the van's valve, and huge chunks of carbon were inside. They said it's not unusual with GMC vehicles.

radar1977 · March 2002

Well, after reading all these posts, I would like to add one of my own and ask if anyone has ever been successful in finding the problem and getting the light to go off? I have a 97.5 Nissan Altima, with 40,500 miles which has begun having trouble starting - just takes longer than it used to. I have had the battery, starter and alternator checked and the shop can find no problem with it. They did change the fuel filter and add a bottle of SeaFoam to the tank. I can't tell much difference in the way it starts. Sometimes it starts right up and other times it takes a while. I cannot find any consistency in the time or the conditions when it acts up, except it NEVER does it at the shop - LOL. After a few days, my check engine light came on. Are the two problems related? They hooked it up and said the error code had to do with the EGR valve and that it might have been carbon deposits which had come off after the fuel additive had worked. Now after another five days, the light has come back on. I am so upset and wonder what to do with it now. Is the part about the bits of carbon accurate or is there something that needs to be replaced? Your comments and advice are greatly appreciated.

0patience · March 2002

radar,
I'm usually successful at getting the light to go out.
The key to it is, to retrieve the trouble codes, which your vehicel requires a scanner. Then with the trouble codes, using a good information system, such as the Alldata DIY subscription, using the trouble code flowcharts to properly diagnose the trouble codes.
Are you mechanically inclined? If you wish to do the work yourself, you will need to have a scanner, a digital volt/ohm meter and the information. You can purchase a one year subscription to Alldata's DIY subscription for one vehicle for $24.95 and it will provide you with all the factory information for your vehicle, including TSB info.

carguy62 · March 2002

My one month old Honda with 1585 miles has the CEL illuminated. My previous Honda went 13 years without ever lighting up. Progress. Doing some research it appears the O2 sensor has been the culprit for others. alcan, does your link to retrieving codes work for Honda?

alcan · March 2002

Sorry, but the retrieval method only works for pre OBD-II vehicles. That's why it only lists up to '95 models. A scanner or code reader is reqired for yours. Did you check the most common culprit, a gas cap not tightened 3 clicks?

carguy62 · March 2002

Gas cap has definitely been clicked.

Apparently there is a glitch with the new CR-V that causes the CEL to illuminate. When they pull the code they get a number that tells them there is an error in the fuel ratio. If they follow the normal template they would replace the O2 or other sensors. However people are reporting CEL again after the sensor(s) is replaced. Honda has determined that it is a software problem and until a fix is ready they are only supposed to reset the light. Now bear in mind this was told to me by one Honda Servie Manager, another one wasn't really sure so who knows for sure. When I bring my vehicle in I will only have them pull the code. If it matches the number I will have them only reset the light. Not sure what else to do. I should point out that it is possible there are different codes involved, if that is the case the normal fix should be done.

radar1977 · March 2002

Oh Mr. Opatience - I wish I was mechanically inclined. Unfortunately, I am but a helpless female in a sea of service managers who feels completely vulnerable when I take the car in. I did have the foresight to take the car to a different shop other than the dealer, they wanted to charge $68 just to hook it up to the computer. The shop I went to has done it several times at no charge. My light is back off again. They said the code is coming back to the EGR valave again but everything in that system checks out fine. I have put a better brand of fuel in it and the car seems to be starting great - just like it used to. The cleaner they added to the tank seems to have done the trick for now. So, I am buying into the theory that the loose chunks of carbon are what is causing the light to kick on and waiting to see what happens next. You know, I kinda miss the light when it's off ... it kinda gives a romantic glow to the dashboard - like the glow of the fireplace on a cold, snowy night - LOL.

jhanafin · March 2002

The check engine light on my 2001 Toyota Highlander came on after 7000 miles. I found a reference in the owners manual to open and reclose the gas cap. A friend had the same thing happen in his new Honda Odyssey. he found the same reference. In both cases it worked. The light went out and hasn't returned. Why I don't know.

alcan · March 2002

.....when the engine's shut off, fuel vapours from the gas tank are absorbed into the media of the charcoal cannister in the EEC (evaporative emission control) system. This prevents the release of hydrocarbons, a major contributor to photechemical smog, into the atmosphere. When the engine's started, a vacuum is placed on the system to ensure it's integrity. If the system won't hold vacuum for a given time span the ECM flags the fault and sets the check engine light. The system can't hold vacuum if the gas cap's loose.

phntm · March 2002

I just bought a used Gr Caravan LE with high miles. 95,000 to be exact. Hey...was all we could afford! ( LOL ) Anyway..we bought from a reputable nationwide dealer. Before we pulled out of the lot the Service Engine Soon light came on and stayed on. They replaced the Oxygen Sensor Valve. That was 5 days ago. Today it's back on. I am not familiar enough with the car to know if something is amiss..but it seems to drive fine. I have only 5 days to "return" this van, ( today is last day )...30 days for all repairs etc...after that my maintenence will only cover major issues and I am worried that I have bought a lemon. The only other thing I have noticed pertaining to these computer sensors..is 2nd nite driving...when I hit brakes..the interior lights flashed..door locks locked and the door ajar light came on...the doors were all shut! This went on til I got home..I re-shut doors...test drove..all was OK. Please ...somebody tell me if I should be worried???

hondadrvr · March 2002

I drive a 1999 Accord EX V-6 with 32,000 miles. Last week, my check engine light came on while driving on an interstate. I immediately called my 2 local dealers, both said that as long as the car was driving fine to get it in within the next week or so to have it checked. Today I picked it up from the dealer and the light is still on. They said it was the EGR valve which needs replaced with an improved version. They said Honda knows about this problem because it happens occasionally.
Does anyone know if it is still OK to drive a few hundred miles on a trip. The dealer said it would be about 3 weeks or so, many are in line to get the same thing replaced. Dealer said it should be fine to drive.

elgriton · March 2002

Recently my '93 Accord SE with ~114K miles reared it's ugly Check engine light! I took it to my regular garage to have them look into it. Well, at first they told me the EGR valve was "going bad" and said that could be the source for the check engine light. They replaced the EGR valve but the light kept coming on and there was too much vacuum coming thru the valve. So, the car remained with them for about a week where they told me they consulted with a "master honda tech" but couldn't conclud what the exact diagnosis was. So, they said they consulted with American Honda and was informed that the culprit was the EGR control solenoid. The ironic thing is that according to my Haynes manual (mind you, they had the factory manual), the logical steps after checkin the EGR valve was to check the EGR control solenoid since they go hand-in-hand. So, I think they took me to the cleaners regarding their charge for several days worth of diagnosing the problem. All said and done, I was charge $200 for the EGR valve and another $200 for the EGR control solenoid and either the CVC valve or the purge cut-off solenoid valve plus $300 in labor. Sure hope this helps anyone out there and I'd be glad to shed some more light on my situation if need be. Sure is gettin hot down here in FL

haplo06 · March 2002

Hey I had the same problem with my 98 Saturn ...the "check engine " kept coming on ... after hours of playing around I found that one of the spark plug wire's was cut inside (seemed fine even when I sprayed water to find that spark) so when I gave it gas it wasn't burning properly ... changed the wires, light went off.... by the way on my car to reset the "check engine" light I have to unplug the battery for apx 1min
Hope it helps

boveem · March 2002

I have a 1994 caviler with 60,400 miles. Just recently over the last few hundred miles if I go over 50 miles per hour for about 5 minutes the check engine light comes on and stays on until I stop and turn the engine off. Car runs fine with no loss of power or performance. This has happened twice in the last two months when driving on the highway. Both times when driving over 50 mph for about five minutes. I tested it a third time and it did the same. Normally the car only gets driven a few miles a day usually 40 mph or less. I hate to have it scanned when I rarely drive on the highway which is when it has come on and alarmed me. Any thoughts from this very helpful board. P.S. I am not mechanically inclined like so many of you great helpers. Thanks in advance.

alcan · March 2002

Start by retrieving and posting any stored diagnostic trouble codes. Follow the instructions here. The data link connector is under the dash, driver's side, and a thin paper clip works fine to jumper the terminals:

http://www.batauto.com/Gm.html

boveem · April 2002

I will try to do this and let you know what
I find. Again thanks for your suggestion.
It is nice to have some knowledge to tap
into.

boveem · April 2002

Say your information was right on target as to the location of the Data Link Connector. I went to the web site (Bat Auto) you suggested and printed out the information. I managed somehow to wedge myself under the dash so I could look at the connector and once I was down there it looked like the drawing (rectangular with a little "peg" on one side). I can't see any letters, like on the drawing, or maybe they are too far inside to see. Should I just stick the two ends of the paper clip up inside the two small squares that seem to correspond to the drawing and proceed? If I stick them in the wrong squares will I disturb or hurt something else? Remeber right now I am not having any performance problems and don't want to "short circuit"something that could make it worse. Based on the drawing on the web site if the little square "peg" is always on the side with the "A" and "B" squares I could figure out where to stick the paper clip. Is it risky? Sorry for sounding like a whimp on this, it is just uncertainty. Again thanks.

0patience · April 2002

If you look at the connector, the far right upper 2 slots are A & B. They aren't marked on the connector. The lettering is solely for referance.
If you look at your plug, there is a notch in the top center of the plug. Notice the notch in the picture. The corresponding slots are the 2 to jump. If you look into the plug with a flashlight, you will see that only about 5 of the slots have actual terminals in them.

The image is exactly as you would be looking at your plug. I'll have to get an actual picture and replace that drawing.

boveem · April 2002

You have both been very helpful. I just finished trying to jumper with a paper clip and a piece of bailing wire folded in two. All instructions worked well and I was excited when I turned the key to on. I did not start to the car just turned it to on. The check engine light was on, the seat belt light, the oil light and all. Anyway, I waited for about a minute but there was no blinking at all. I tried it with the bailing wire and now I am gutsz and held on to the wires and pushed them in real firm and even moved them around a little. Bottom line is I have no codes to report. I do appreciate what both of you have offered. I can only guess that maybe my '94 is one that may be missing the "B" terminal even though there is a little box where the diagram shows it should be. Thanks again.

vk02720 · April 2002

I have a very weird problem with my '98 Camry. At certain times soon after starting the car violently oscillates between 0 and 1 and at this time the accelerator does not work. In this condition if I just leave it like that for approx. 2 minutes the idle/rpm indicator eventually smoothens out and everything is ok.
This happens only
1. When I start the car and within the first few minutes.
2. I have been using the car for a few stops and *never* early morning. Only if I drive the car for maybe 20 mins stop the car for sometime less than few hrs, drive again for 20-30 minutes etc. Never in the beginning of the day and never when the car has been parked for more than 8+ hrs.

Recently the Check Engine Light also started coming on and the code check revealed problem with air/fuel ratio sensor ( same as or similar to O2 sensor).
Does this appear an accurate diagnosis and are these the symptoms of a bad O2 or Air/Fuel Ratio sensor ? The car has about 66000 miles and this problem has been around since a year.

Please advise.

Thanks.

sieh · April 2002

I have RX300, The engine light on. OBD-II Codes: P0171 System too lean Bank 1.

The local auto shop told me that is the "Air fuel ratio sensor" which will cost $380 for parts from dealer.

Can any one verify this code with the parts? I would really appreciate if someone could have this answer!

Thanks,

Vincent

alcan · April 2002

Code P0171 = Fuel Trim too rich (Bank 1). It means that the ecm is adding (trimming) additional fuel to #1 bank of cyinders because the exhaust oxygen sensor for that bank is reporting a lean fuel mixture condition.
Scenario 1: the sensor's pooched and sending the ecm bad info, causing it to over-fuel bank #1
Scenario 2: the sensor's working properly and reporting a lean condition caused by a vacuum leak, or by an engine misfire (plug, wire, injector, etc). Has it been tuned recently and how's it running?

sieh · April 2002

alcan, Thanks for the reply.

It just happen after I done the 80K miles oil change. The car run great without any problems!

Base on the Code, The shop told me that is the Air fuel ratio sensor next to the engine. Since the parts will cost $375, He recommend I may try to clean the Injector and engine to improve it first!

LUBRO MOGO - PROLINE (Fuel System Cleaner Concentrate) to clean the Fuel Injector,

Excell Super Engine Magic, Multi-use Cleaning Fomula, Part# PRX51GS to Gas Tank

and reset the memory to clear the engine light.

Hopefully, it will works for me!

He also suggested me to use the 91 gas instead!(The master mechanic from dealer told me before)

Is that the right parts? (Air fuel ratio sensor)

Thanks,

Vincent

jhoffer · April 2002

We had the timing belt & water pump changed in our '96 Honda Civic recently. Two weeks later the CEL comes on. Could this be related? I do plan to take it back to our mechanic for a scan. I did check the gas cap and it did click a few times, but the light is still on. Any suggestions? Thanks.

carnut4 · April 2002

Have a '90 Dodge Van-318, auto, etc. "Check Engine Light" started coming on intermittently a few weeks ago. Sometimes, I could just stop and restart, and it would go off. Didn't pay much attention to it, other than that. Then, last week, I was driving around at night [the check engine light had been coming on and staying on, but it had been running ok] and my dashboard lights seemed kinda dim-then, the radio quit-then, everything seemed to just fade out. Got to my girlfriend's place, everything quit. Turned key, wouldn't start-like a dead battery. Next day, cleaned battery terminals, found rusty looking little circuit breaker coming off primary wire from battery. Anyway, cleaned battery terminals, van started and ran-check engine light still on, but voltage gauge read low. Got home, replaced the little relay I mentioned. Started up, ran fine, no engine light, voltage reads normal. Then, a couple days later, engine light comes on again, and voltage gauge reads low again. Ran fault code- 12 [low battery voltage] and 41 [charging system problem] came up. Drove a few more days, then, everything faded again-voltage gauge read REAL low-barely made it home, engine wouldn't restart. Next day, started and ran fine, but engine light still on, voltage still reads low. I suspected maybe the voltage regulator. So, I get out the book, and read that from 88-91, these rigs had the voltage regulator as part of the PCM [computer module] and you have to replace the whole unit. So, I finally turn it over to the local Mopar dealer for some pro troubleshooting and diagnosis. Just got a call..."It does appear that the PCM [computer] is not working. It's a $590. part, and 2 hours labor/diagnosis, for a total of $718!!" Ouch! Can anyone out there shed some light on this so I don't feel so bad? Seems like I have no choice. And, the part will take 4-5 days just to get here, special order! Oh, by the way-the car has 98,000 miles on ot, and has never given any trouble up to now, except for an air conditioning clutch [$328] at 58,000. Anyone else have this experience?

Kirstie_H · May 2002

Wow! I'd actually be thrilled with a car that I only had to spend $1000 on in repair costs over 10 years. $100/year? Sounds like you got a winner.

kirstie_h
Roving Host
Edmunds.com

yintsao · May 2002

I bought a 2002 Honda CR-V in Feb, 2002.
When mileage reached 232, the check engine light was ON. We brought the car to dealer, and they only reset the light. The car has been in and out the dealer many times. Nothing got resolved. The light keeps ON. I contacted American Honda. No satisfactory service was taken. They want us to continue driving with the check engine light ON. Can we believe them? Can anyone help, please? Who is going to buy a car with a check engine light ON? We don't want the dealer simply to reset the light, but fix it for the normal performance.

shued · May 2002

After I have read the messages on this thread,
I feels that Service Engine Soon Light can be ON while
dealer or garage can not find any error code.
Beside the PCM is bad, which kind case will
do that? If any one can collect such kind information?
I feels that Car Manufactory should design the device on
the car to display the code without the customers to buy
the scanner tool separately.

taskmaster · May 2002

Does anyone one here know of a source of possible engine control settings that a 2002 Chevy Cavalier can be set to?

Specifically if the power steering can be made to drive with a lighter feel or if the engine idle speed, when hot, can be increased?

My new Cavalier has an idle of about 500 RPM and the steering feels VERY stiff taking off from a stop. When the engine is cold and the idle is at about 1000 RPM, the steerinig feels lighter and I would like it that way all of the time. The idle speed adjustment screw is off limits to me with a 5-sided torx screw (not the usual 6-sided version).

Thanks in advance.

0patience · May 2002

shued,
I feels that Service Engine Soon Light can be ON while dealer or garage can not find any error code.
Nope, not gonna happen. If the light is on, there is a code. No ifs, ands or buts. Now, if the light goes out before the vehicle reaches the shop, that is another thing. With the correct scanner, any problem can be found.

Beside the PCM is bad, which kind case will
do that?
That would be the only one, but usually when a ECM/PCM goes bad, it will throw tons of codes, just none of them will make sense.
If any one can collect such kind information?
How do you mean collect such kind of information?

I feels that Car Manufactory should design the device on the car to display the code without the customers to buy the scanner tool separately.
Never gonna happen. There are a few vehicles that will display the codes on a digital dash, but there is no requirement on that by the govt, nor is it ever going to happen. The manufacturers don't like the idea of an independant mechanic working on their vehicles, let alone a DIYer.
Some manufacturers are even going to the extreme of blocking information to the DIYer.

taskmaster,
Does anyone one here know of a source of possible engine control settings that a 2002 Chevy Cavalier can be set to?
There are some chip manufacturers that design chips (PROM) to do different things to the engine.

Specifically if the power steering can be made to drive with a lighter feel or if the engine idle speed, when hot, can be increased?
No. There isn't any way to modify the engine speed with a setting. It may be possible to get a chip and program it to increase the idle, but unless you know what you are doing, it would be best to not mess with it.

linuspbmo · May 2002

I have a 88 Honda LX 4 DR with 4 cyl engine, 140,xxx miles. I have had very few problems with this car so far but the last year we haven't driven the car much (1,000 miles, it sits parked for up to a month at a time. The last few times I tried to drive it the check engine light comes on and the 5 speed transmission will not engage. The engine revs and sounds fine but when you let the clutch out, nothing. If you try several times, the light won't come on and the car drives OK. Is there a clutch disconnect or is it a computer problem. Has anyone heard of this before.

Thanks

smokey0066 · May 2002

did anyone else get a recall/extended warranty regarding the EGR valve on their accords? i got one and my check engine light also comes on and off at weird times as well.

what exactly does the EGR valve do? i'm pretty sure thats the problem with my car and there isnt any problems when the light comes on so i havent taken any time out to take my car in just yet because i really HATE the dealer so i wont go in until i have to.

alcan · May 2002

The exhaust gas recirculation valve meters a small amount of inert gas (exhaust) back into the incoming air/fuel mixture. This reduces combustion temperature which in turn reduces the formation of oxides of nitrogen or NOx, a big player in photochemical smog.

fleetwoodsimca · May 2002

I had a 1986 Olds Custom Cruiser that got holes in one side's EGR plumbing. I got it replaced under the emissions system warranty that is mandated by the feds.
By the way, that Olds was one of the very best vehicles I have ever owned. I hate to see the brand go down... That and the memories of one Cadillac are all that keep me from otherwise despising GM! (:oÞ

lmacmil · May 2002

60K miles on the V6. Codes are P0133 (O2 sensor slow response, bank 1, sensor 1) and P0420 (catalyst system efficiency below threshold). The guy at Autozone (who pulls the codes for free btw) said he thought a bad converter could cause the 02 code but not the other way around. I know the converter will be big bucks so I don't want to shotgun this. What do you think?

0patience · May 2002

"The guy at Autozone", there's a comforting thought.
Remember, when you go to Autozone to have the "free" code pulling, you get what you pay for.
some snot nosed kid comes out and plugs a unit into your vehicle's computer, which BTW can run from $100 - $1,000. The pulls the codes, which they've had no training or experience on and then diagnoses your problem.
NOT A CHANCE.
Now, I have nothing against AZ doing the free code pulling, but realize, that is all it is. They are not mechanics.

Ok, enough of that, to your problem.
Proper diagnosis would have been to clear the codes, road test the vehicle and recheck codes, then use the proper flow chart to prperly diagnose/test for the actual problem.
If the forward O2 sensor (bank 1 sensor 1) is bad, then it could cause the cat to plug. But replacing parts without knowing is guesswork.

P0133 HO2S slow response.
Possible causes,
Contaminated HO2S sensor
Exhaust leaks
shorted/open wires in HO2S circuit
Excessive fueling/rich condition
MAF sensor circuit problem
vacuum/air leaks

P0420
Possible causes,
use of leaded or contaminated fuel
oil contamination
cylinder misfire
damaged HO2S
damaged ECT sensor
downstream HO2S sensor circuit improperly connected
fuel pressure too high
exhaust leaks
damaged catalytic converter

jgmilberg · May 2002

If they have the proper equipment I would not worry about them pulling the codes out of the PCM. Really, as long as the unit they are using is for your car it doesn't take a genius to plug it in and retrieve the codes. Do you really think they would open themselves up to potential lawsuits from workers frying out PCMs? They give them training on how it is done, and they include what NOT to do. They use a hand held unit that only plugs into the cars computer port, and it only fits in one way, so the likely hood of damage to your car from them pulling codes is minimal at best. It's not like they are re programming the computer, just retrieving stored info, and the one near me will only pull codes they won't even clear them. You take your alternators and starters in to have them checked out, and never think that they are going to kill them while hooking them up. Some alternators cost upwards of $500, and you don't blink an eye at it, one crossed wire will fry out the diodes then you have to buy one wether you needed it or not, and you won't even know they did it, even if you watched them do it. Learning to hook up all the different brands of starters is a lot harder than hooking up a computer to a terminal and pulling codes. As far as taking it to a mechanic the only thing they can do lately is pull codes and check the computer, and if the computer does give them any info you are stuck with a guy that just can't fix it. What we need are more mechanics that can break it down to the basics, with out a computer.

Opatiance, I don't know if you are a licensed mechanic or not, but I bet that a lot of old back yard mechanics can still diagnose a problem w/o a computer to tell them what is going on. All the computer has done over the years is make the mechanic lazy, they don't have to think anymore, just follow diagnosis trees and computer codes. Then when the car runs like doo doo and the computer tells them bunk they can't figure it out. I am not trying to slam you or other mechanics, but in my experience mechanics don't think the average guy can fix a car anymore, and make it sound like a big long drawn out process. Some things are intimidating, and others extremely simple, like the gas cap DTC, how often does that happen? My dealer says they get 10-20 cars a day with that one. So why bother to take the car in to the shop and not have it for 1 or 2 days when AZ can pull the code and check the gas cap for free in the parking lot while you wait and watch? Pulling codes from a cars computer can be done by a 4th grader now a days, so chill out a little. Your help is still needed and appreciated by me and the other posters on the board. As you know some codes are decisive, and others have a ton of other related stuff that can cause them. No one likes to just throw parts at a car hoping the light goes out, they need an expert that can do the proper test to figure out what part is actually bad. Most of the time if you talk people through it they will come in for work if it is something over their head, or even for simple things like an oil change, word of mouth is the best advertisement, so capitalize on it, it they tell a friend and they tell a friend.....

0patience · May 2002

As far as taking it to a mechanic the only thing they can do lately is pull codes and check the computer, and if the computer does give them any info you are stuck with a guy that just can't fix it. What we need are more mechanics that can break it down to the basics, with out a computer.

Afraid not. Not anymore.

Most tests require a scanner to see what the sensor is doing. Specific tests for specific sensors and without the tests, it is guess work.

Opatiance, I don't know if you are a licensed mechanic or not, but I bet that a lot of old back yard mechanics can still diagnose a problem w/o a computer to tell them what is going on. All the computer has done over the years is make the mechanic lazy, they don't have to think anymore, just follow diagnosis trees and computer codes.

This ain't Canada, there are no licensed mechanics in the US, with exception of DEQ certifications.

As you know some codes are decisive, and others have a ton of other related stuff that can cause them. No one likes to just throw parts at a car hoping the light goes out, they need an expert that can do the proper test to figure out what part is actually bad.

I know full well about the codes and related stuff. Who do you think wrote this??

Most of the time if you talk people through it they will come in for work if it is something over their head, or even for simple things like an oil change, word of mouth is the best advertisement, so capitalize on it, it they tell a friend and they tell a friend.....

Again, check my site and my history here and then tell me about talking people thru things.

Besides, the codes this person was asking about required a scanner to test the HO2S sensor. That is a little more than the DIYer can do.

Pulling codes from a cars computer can be done by a 4th grader now a days, so chill out a little. Your help is still needed and appreciated by me and the other posters on the board.

No, it has experts like you to help. I'm done. To tired of this to argue anymore.

Have fun all.

edster3 · May 2002

My engine light is always lit, I brought the car to dealer ship and they told me that I needed the EGR valve and a Oxygen Sensor. I replaced the EGR valve, but not the Oxygen Sensor. Now my TCS light comes on without pressing the button for it. My mazda act weird when this light comes on, if I press the button to shut it off, it stay on no matter what. I brought the car to the dealer ship, but they don't have a clue of what going on. While I'm driving with this light on, sometimes the car drives fine,but sometimes it shut off while I'm driving at a high speed. Or I can be pulling out of some where and my car shuts off, I start the car again, and it shuts off. I have to wait a while in order to turn it back on. I really need some help to solve this matter.

opera_house_wk · May 2002

So what year, what model, what were the actual code numbers, and how many miles? So dealer told you to replace oxygen sensor and you didn't. Some reason for that action. First rule of posting is to engage the reader. A post which is sloppy and incomplete, I think, why should I waste my time. Anyway, the car stopping is not EGR or O2 sensor. Probably ignition, fuel pump, or the wiring associated with them. Sorry, but just tired of reading posts that people put no thought into. Your number just came up.

edster3 · May 2002

This is the first time I've use one of this site we're you post a message. The car that I have is a 95 Mazda Millenia S with 75,000 with a 2.5L and a V6. About the code they never gave me one. All they said was that the car needed these parts. So you think it might be one this things you listed. I appreciate you help and sorry that I didn't give enough info on the car.

m1tommy · May 2002

I got my Toyota back from a bit of work about a week ago, and the "check engine" light came on during the drive home today. Jumper-ing the E1 and T terminals in the connector box give me code "25" which my owner's manual tells me is,"Fuel Metering Device (lean)".

Can someone give me a heads-up of what's happening here? I'm not *the* mechanic, but have some tools and can cipher out some things.

A second mechanic has advised looking at a wire that plugs into the transmission. As it was recently repaired (not by him), he thinks it may have been left unattached.

The truck runs OK, with highway mileage in the low 20's. It has never been too powerful, so I'm not expecting an asphalt shreedder.

Opinions or advice are appreciated.
Tommy

francodm · June 2002

There have been a couple of postings on the Ford Escort - Station Wagon message board about problems with the 1995 - 4spd auto wagon. The check engine light goes on and off sporadically. One posting stated that - "Ford has been unable to pull any codes, and wants an outrageous amount to check the car system by system. The car runs and drives fine, however occasionally on the highway the car will surge, as if the fuel supply were being momentarily cut off. Also when the car is warm sometimes I have to really crank and crank the engine to get it to start. Recently the car has started stalling if you don't veeerrryyy slowly take off from a stop when the engine is cold." Does anyone have any ideas of what could be
causing the problem? - Thanks

opera_house_wk · June 2002

I finally traced the evaporative leak to the purge solenoid on the charcoal canisters over the spare tire. I removed this assembly and found the solenoid coil totally rusted through. Taking it apart further found the valve plunger stuck from rust, part # 9F945 cost $36. You can blow through this valve and it only closes when power is applied to the coil. The Haynes test seemed inaccurate. Maybe more of you will have this rust problem. Seemed quite severe for the age. I wrapped the metal coil assembly in two layers of electrical tape so this one would last a little longer. Rear wheel must throw up a lot of moisture.

jgmilberg · June 2002

I know that most newer vehicles made after '95 need a "scan tool" to retrieve the codes, and I also know that the same scan tool can check sensor values. The tool itself is around $300 plus around $100 per adapter cable for the specific brand vehicle. This is way out of most backyard mechanics price range for a tool that they only use once or twice.

I want to give an example of the computer telling you nothing and the basics being needed to be brought back into a lot of shops, just to get things fixed right the first time. I have a '92 Dodge van with a 318 and MFI. I had a problem with the cat overheating and the engine performance. I took it to a shop to have it fixed, and they found a defective fuel pump regulator, R & R'd it same problem. New cat same problem, new muffler same thing. I gave up on that shop and took it to the dealer where the mechanic found the trouble, a bad ignition coil that was breaking down after it warmed up leaking spark to ground, dumping the unburned fuel into the cat causing it to meltdown. The computer didn't tell them one thing, and the skill of a mechanic that kept a firm grip on the basics fixed the thing. After spending over $500 throwing parts at it all it ended up being was a $35 coil. Now for an example of AZ coming to the rescue with the code reader they use. A friend of mine has a '97 GMC Sonoma, it had the CES light on and he took it up there to have it scanned after a few weeks. It was a bad o2 sensor, bank 2 sensor 1. They knew which one was bad based on the readings that it was sending, so they do check to see what the problem can be stemming from, not just selling a bunch of parts that might fix it, they try to get to the root cause of the problem. As you know the Sonoma has 4 o2 sensors on it, they looked at it to find the bad one, not sell him all 4.

I don't know why you got all bent out of shape over my post, it seems as though you are splitting hairs over the license vs. certified thing, most people use the term interchangeably. I guess what I am saying is that sometimes people need a place to go to get help, if it's AZ so be it. I know I hate paying someone else to work on my stuff, especially if I can do the work myself after diagnosis. If AZ does the hard part, figuring out what the problem is, for free and has the parts I need to fix it that is where people will go for the parts. How many shops do you know of that will do that? My guess is none.

fleetwoodsimca · June 2002

That was an informative posting. Many of us can use this knowledge to access Autozone as a preliminary stop for figuring out the pesky dash light's meaning when it glows. Then, we can either buy some parts and go for it, or demur and make an appointment for the work at a shop.

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